January 2009
I am finding my carpets are getting damp or really wet.
At first I thought it was just Front Passenger foot well after driving in the rain.
I now find other footwells (Driver's & both rear footwells) are getting wet after car is sitting stationary in the rain.
I'm not sure how water is getting there as haven't seen anything obvious.
I haven't investigated, looked at wheel arch seals or taken carpets up yet.
Any usual/standard faults or things to check which cause this ??
Thanks Read more
Yaris radio will not move off medium wave. Finger toggles on the steering wheel do not work Other functions on the radio as in the fm button / fuel average/fuel distance calculator also do not work.
On switching on the engine the radio bleeps.
Any advice Read more
>>Might be worth checking your tail lamps are the correct bulbs fitted or has one blown
>>
Thanks yokel38.
Still the original bulbs from 4/5 years ago and all OK.
I will however see if I can remove the sidelight bulbs, give them a little TLC and refit.
It might be some sort of funny intermittent resistance causing a non standard earth path. ( does that sound technical enought :-) )
Thinking that it might be a poor earth between radio and chassis, hence my request for how to extract the radio.
I've seen a nice one with high spec, low insurance and 89k with full Citroen service history. Its £1100 and on a 51Y plate. Its sold at a garage with warranty. Is this a good potential buy? What do I need to look out for? i dfo about 2-3k a year so the engine really only needs to last another 20k or something.
The car is ideal for me as its cheap to insure yet large enough for my computer work. Read more
My 1.4 XS estate survived a broken water pump (replaced) and a dodgy head gasket (a litre of water per few hundred miles) with grace and decent mpg. Sold it a year later due to emigration, but I'm sure it would've carried on with tlc. not sure about the XU but XS was nicely equipped, comfortable cloth seats, sunroof. lovely car....
Hi all,
Mileage at present 82000
I have renault laguna 1.9 DCI the car keep going into Limp mode when driving.
Both the glow plugs light and the engine management light come on together and the cars goes into limp mode. If i stop and start the engine it goes out and is ok again for a while. Its very intermitent i can have days when it dosent come on and days when it always comes on!
I have had the car serviced just full service - does anyone have any ideas what this could be - i have had the car on an engine management machine but it came back with no errors being logged?
I have spoken to someone today who mentioned it could be a build up of carbon on any number of things and that i could have contributed to the problem by being a careful driver....
Any ideas or suggestions would be very greatfully received
I have not yet changed the glow plugs this may be a good place to start?
Thanks a lot,
Harv Read more
It could be any manner of things, its naive to just throw money at it, try giving it a clean first: www.meganeownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1...6
SWMBOs Octavia comes to the end of its lease this year and she won't qualify for another lease vehicle. So it's time to spend our own hard earned on the main family car.
We have a growing family and after much debating think an S-Max will suit us best. I didn't really want to move up from an estate but having looked around at supposedly larger estates they don't seem to offer us much over the Octavia.
The question I am pondering is whether to go diesel or petrol. Our annual mileage in the vehicle will be around 15k, short journeys urban in the week, with regular long stints on the motorway at the weekends. We also have to tow our 1325kg caravan about 10 times a year.
We have had diesels for a while, but with all the DPF, DMF etc debate I'm not sure it's worth it. In the S-Max, the 2.0 diesel would suffice but I would really like the 2.2 for a bit more shove especially towing. However, while there are plenty of 2.0's on the used market, there are very few 2.2s and they are very highly priced. Alternatively, I could get a 2.5T petrol, which seems to be priced a couple of grand below the 2.0 diesel for similar spec. My questions are as follows:
1. How will the costs stack up over four years use (buying used)
2. How will the performance of the 2.5T compare to the 2.0 and 2.2 diesels?
3. What is the reliabiliity of this 5 cyl unit like - I know it's proven but how would it compare to the diesels?
Your thoughts appreciated. Read more
DMF problems have affected the 1.8 diesel S-Maxes but not the 2.0 (my 1.8 was fine however)
Can I suggest that you pay a visit to www.smaxownersclub.co.uk where I'm sure you'll find lots of owners who tow and do a similar mileage to you.
FWIW, my 1.8 S-Max was a great car in the 55,000 miles and 18 months I had it. It also would average about 43/44MPG (true, not from the trip computer) and 50MPG if you took it steady.
Good Luck.
Some of you out there must be drinking de icer. Just bought a bottle from Sainsbury's and on the till receipt it says ' Think 21 . Cashier Confirmed Correct Age " !!
Yes, my age was checked for a bottle of Sub Zero de icer. Read more
Austrians?
I'm sure we talked about this subject many moons ago, but I can't find the reference to it.
This evening, Mrs W arrived home honking the horn for attention - she has me well-trained! A dip-beam bulb had failed on the Focus again - grrrrr! This is the 5th to fail in the 2 years between 40,000 and 61,000 miles. I wouldn't mind so much - but, as we all know, it's a pain to change unless you have 'the knack'. It's not always on the same side - in fact this one should be slightly easier because it's not on the battery side.
I've a suspicion that earlier failures have been associated with cheaper bulbs but I know for a fact that the current survivor is a Ford Motorcraft bulb - and so is the replacement that I have for the one that has just failed.
I have only ever changed one bulb on the Mondy in 150k miles - and that was years ago with a cheap replacement, so why is the Focus so intolerant of bulbs???
Has anyone else come across this - and, moreover, found a solution?
Cheers Waino Read more
No failures in the CC3 yet, but I wonder if the auto lights feature shortens the life of the bulbs?
Now the shorter days are here, each time I start the car the lights come on with the ignition first, then the starter cranks.
Not sure if that does the filaments any harm, or not.
Could turn auto lights off, but it's a handy little toy.
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Should have used Thunword shouldn't I ?
Last week, I bought a Vectra Life 1.8 estate from a car supermarket, for a friend. It won't be poicked up by my friend for another week or two, so I have been using it a bit to shift some big things which don't fit easily in my car, as well as taking it off to get parking sensors fitted.
Mostly it seems fine: quiet, smooth-riding, comfortable, very spacious, simple to drive (though huge to park). It has no handling vices that I have found, but it doesn't feel brilliantly planted on the road. Nothing serious, just rather less precise than my Almera, and less of a driver's machine than a Mondeo. But that's no surprise: this isn't intended to be a fun car, and wasn't bought as one.
However, there are two things which seem odd:
1/ The central locking works on the boot, and both the front doors, but not the two rear passenger doors. Is this some bizarre cheapskate thing for the base model? Or is something broken? (I've never before seen or heard of a car which has remote central locking, but not on all doors) I tried turning on and off one of the child safety catches, but it made no difference, and I can see nothing in the owner's manual about this.
2/ There's a slight and intermittent roughness in 4th gear, and only in 4th gear. When travelling between about 40/45mph and 60mph, the gear level vibrates enough to cause a mildly unpleasant rattly resonance in the plastic trim which surrounds the gear level (it;s probably the ashtray which is vibrating). On a 35-mile trip yesterday, I changed in and out of 4th gear and it was reliably present every time I used 4th, but only when under load (nothing when I lifted off the gas). However, I couldn't replicate it today, tho I didn't reach that speed very often on the backroads I was using (I'm going to try again on the mway later this evening). The car is an ex-hire vehicle, so I'm inclined to wonder if something was damaged by some don't-care hirer crunching the gears, but I'm also wondering if I'm being a little paranoid. :-
Any thoughts on either issue? Read more
It's quite unlikely that the problem will be anything inside the gearbox itself - possibly a mounting or something loose in the remote mechanism allowing some noise and vibration to be transmitted.
I suspect that if you did go back to the supermarket, they'll send you to the dealer anyway. Perhaps 'phone them, and check. I would be *really* surprised if they take it back and do anything to it themselves.
Even if the supermarket did do anything, I wouldn't trust many outside the dealer network to do any significant electrical work on these cars (including disconnecting the battery!) - as already hinted at, these cars place great reliance on their CAN bus systems.
Hi. I have a 1999 1.8 Vectra.
The latest problem is the temperature guage has stopped working. Maybe 1 out of 5 times when I use the car it might read a little (wont go any higher than the blue on the gauge).
This seemed to have started a few weeks ago when we had that really cold spell. Dont know if it was that or just a coincidence.
The car is running normal. I've not long came back from a 150 mile round trip with no problems.
This is just one of those things thats annoying and would like to fix if its easy enough.
Anyone got any idea what the problem may be?
Thanks for any help. Read more
Hi guys I know this is an old thread but its a common problem. On these engines the temp sender earths thru the thermostat housing and causes dissimilar metal corrosion.Find temp sensor(brass 30mm long bolt in thing with single wire connected to it, top left of block as you face engine) remove wire by pulling on spade connector NOT wire, then undo sensor 1/4 turn then retighten. repeat 3-4 times then nip up tight (not too tight its an ally housing) now reattach spade connector. start engine and allow to idle for 5 mins, check temp gauge, all should now be well. If no change repeat above to clear corrosion. hope this helps

