December 2007

lexysmith

Hi
we have a problem with our ford that no one seems able to diagnose.... It judders badly whenever we go over about 50 miles an hour. garage suggests it might be drive shafts but say they can' t tell unless they actually change them. Wheels have been balanced etc so not that. Its a diesel estate and has about 80K on the clock. We can't really drive it at the mo as its quite an uncomfortable ride - anyone out there know anything????!

(No age of car or engine size mentioned despite the sticky asking people to include this, so have taken the info from the drop down menu when you made the choice of make/model) Read more

quizman

Lexy welcome to HJ.
There are two people on this site who really know what they are talking about, they are Screwloose and Aprilia. Take note of what they say and good luck with your wobbles and judders.

Glaikit Wee Scunner {P}

Anyone getting annoying and transient ?advisories? with their MOTs?

Four years ago, I was advised a CV joint gaiter needed replacing. Just had it done last week after a pre MOT check - no mention of that problem in the MOT?s in the intervening period.

Last year I was told I?d slight wear on the front brake discs (which were only six months old at the time).
No mention of that this time.

Had several other ,often non existent, problems pointed out (low brake fluid-not).
Feels like the advisories are being used to alarm punters into getting work done.

Read more

Aprilia

Sometimes testers will make honest mistakes - especially if the car is not a popular model and they are not terribly familiar with it. Some undoubtedly do fish for work.
Most times they are just doing their best. The MoT standards for many components are actually pretty slack and rely on the tester's judgement - you can get a car through with an alarming amount of slop in the rack, for example. The bushes in link arms (think Merc, BMW. VW) can be splitting, but so long as there in no metal-metal contact then its a pass. Rear brakes can be at 50% eff. and get though. Rear lens can be cracked, but so long as no white light is showing then it a pass - I could go on and on. Its a basic roadworthiness test and advisories IMHO can be useful in causing the reponsible owner to do a more thorough check of the suspect item.

boxsterboy

Honda have issued a handbrake recall, because the spring in the handbrake has been fitted the wrong way round (good old Swindon, eh?). In the meantime drivers are advised to apply the handbrake WITHOUT pressing in the ratchet button at the end of the handle. Read more

boxsterboy

Yes, our driver's letter said repair not possible until March, too, and gave advice as to how the handbrake should be properly used in the meantime - by not depressing the end button.

Vinnychoff

my friend has a bmw 323 which has developed a fault.

when overtaking or accelerating through the gears. when reaching 4k the car misfires holds back.

i have had a quick look over the car but i have no access to diagnostic tools. i have a good digital meter.

i did take out the air filter out which was a fram (orange type) did not look a good fit and put back.


anyone know what tests i can do? to dertimine if it is fuel or electrical? using a fluke meter?
regards Vinny Read more

pricklepuss

Hi,
My girlfriends 2006 ford ka 1.25 has a fault at idle, she has been told by the ford dealer that the car is fine at both the 1000m/inspection and first year service, but having driven it myself there is definatley a fault! This is her first car so she just accepted the main dealers assurance that the car behaves as it should.

What happens is that as soon as you drop the clutch the engine will rev up, then die down, then rev up, then die down, etc.. It doesnt feel like it will stall as the revs die down, the revs just pulse!
It does this about 2 out of 3 times that you need to use the clutch, the other times it either idles fine or idles too fast!
It doesnt seem to do it from cold, though i need to road test it more to check this.
I have tried dropping the clutch at speed and the engine pulses the same as if you were stationary.
If you put the car in neutral and bring the clutch back up the engine will very occasionally settle to a normal idle.
if you rev the engine or hold the revs up for a bit when it starts pulsing it makes no difference, it will settle back down and start pulsing!

I hope this all makes sense, ive tried to be thorough without going on too much!
So far it seems to be a fault once the car is up to temperature, though i need to drive it more first.

Any suggestions would be great, thanks

Read more

Screwloose


A 1.25 or a 1.3 Duratec?

It's a known problem; get it back to the dealers as a specific fault - bonus-earners doing servicing don't want to spend any time on things like this.

It'll be one of the well-known idle flare causes. Throttle sensor signal; clutch switch; idle valve, or software issues.

WipeOut

Hi,

I'm not posting as a leader to the car I am selling, but I am genuienly a bit concerned. So I don't really want to discuss the car/specification/price.

I've taken delivery of a new car, and I am now trying to sell my three year old car. I've priced it at a competitive price in autotrader for a week now. I've not had one call. I am a bit suprised. I've checked similar cars to mine advertised, and the specification, mileage etc is considerable better for the money. Every so often I check the telesafe numbers. I am concerned that lowering the price further still won't get any further interest unless I go really silly?

Is it just a December thing, and everybody is thinking about Christmas presents. Will things pick up in January. Do I just have to hold my nerve? Luckily I don't need the money that urgently, but I would like some garage space back.

WipeOut Read more

WipeOut

Thanks I'll make the add simpler.>> I always give a miss to any ad that fails to mention number of keepers/owners.

There are so many similar Golfs on there and at lower prices that WipeOut needs
to make his ad stand out. Remove the mundane run-of-the-mill items but emphasise its USP
unique selling point. >>
avalon25

i have a T reg fiesta (1999 i think) and a problem has happend with the passenger door lock.
basically it's stuck on the 'lock' posistion so the door can not actually be shut, it jus bounced off the catch thing. the locking mechanism seems fine, like i can put hte key in the lock and turn it fine and the inside lock handle works, but the catch on the door just remains in the locked position.
any ideas?

thanks x Read more

Peter D

If you put a screwdriver against the closing jaw of the lock and open the door with the handle can you not get the jaw to move out of the way so it opens. Regards Peter

motorprop

Somebody must remember this with me - I need to prove this to a cynical mate , an architectural technician who says this cannot happen ;

In the 80'S , I SAW a TV advert in the UK for BMW as follows , am certain it was the 3 series ;


a 3 series 3 door travels along a production line . A voice says : ' After we hang the doors on the 3 series BMW , we can hang the 3 series BMW by the doors.......


The car is shown, suspended in the air , with a thick chain hooked through the top of the window frames , with the doors wide open. The chains ( 2 in total, one per door ) support the car in mid air , solely by holding it through the open doors .


Questions ;

a) who remembers this advert ?

b) Where can I get a copy ?

c) Can they repeat this with a current model ? Read more

Dynamic Dave

a) who remembers this advert ?


I do.
b) Where can I get a copy ?


You could try searching on www.visit4info.com/index.cfm
c) Can they repeat this with a current model ?


Dunno ;o)
motorprop


I want to get a Mini Cooper diesel for my girlfriend . I understand that a car's retained value ( residuals ) forms a strong part of their leasing price . The lower the depreciation, the cheaper it is to lease ??

so, leasing a car like a Mini should be quite cheap compared to their buying price .

anybody got any tips - where can I get quotes on leasing / PCP a Mini ? Read more

motorprop

Nihau Ling - surprised to see a thread I started 2 years ago re-surface . I actually ended up buying a ' classic ' Mini Cooper for her in Dec 07.... she she never liked it, despite it being BRG and mint .

The good news the car was bought oop North and when selling it back in London , yielded £500 profit which paid for the journey and maintenance here..

JohnM{P}

Thought some of you be interested in a slightly belated mid-term report on my 2005 1.9TDI SE Golf MkV ? 30 months and 90k miles means I?m getting to know it.

So the immediate reaction from the usual gang will be ?VW ? loads must have gone wrong with it!? Er, sorry to disappoint, but the just the exterior temperature sensor failed (replaced swiftly under warranty), and one sidelight bulb that was working intermittently. That?s it. Nothing too drastic in my opinion, although when the temp sensor?s ever more pessimistic readings finally reached ?42degC, the heater unit computer decided that whatever the interior temp may be, the incoming air surely needed to heated to max? not so welcome in late summer.

The V is a great improvement over the 110 GT Tdi MkIV it replaced; roomier, more refined and quicker, despite it having a claimed 5bhp less. The V whistles round corners, whereas the IV was like wrestling a lazy, squealing pig. Not that either saw many corners compared to motorway miles, but the IV was truly noisy. The V is markedly better, but still not quiet ? not due to the engine, as popularly believed, but due mostly to road noise.

Which brings me to tyres? The oe Continental 2 fronts lasted 43k; they were replaced with Conti(no number)s, which lasted 29k ? same usage. The current Michelins seem to be long lasting, 5mm still left after 18k. The rears? Still original, 4mm of tread left, so will see out 100k plus. There was little difference in road noise between the Michelins and the Contis. According to the ADAC tyre test for my 195/60x15s, the only tyre appreciably quieter than the rest was the Pirelli ? but it was also appreciably the least economical?.

The car is on longlife servicing (it?s a lease car). First service came up as due at 18600 miles, which happens to be 30k km. I had used just the litre of longlife liquid gold that had come with the car ? and it wasn?t on minimum/empty when it was changed, either! 10k miles later, I got a suction unit and changed the (majority of the) oil with more longlife. The result? The service due came up again at 18600 miles?
Events meant that I didn?t do a mid change the next time ? to my amazement the service due did not come at the expected 18,600. Having rtfm, I found that it was forecasting the service due at 23k miles; I got it serviced at the 18,600 nevertheless.
The next service came up at 18,600 miles again.
From this I conclude that the 30k is a dealer-entered limit (and was incorrectly set or just overlooked for the 23k time) and is occurring before the 'oil quality sensor' believes the oil requires changing. As the majority of journeys are 70 (mostly motorway) miles each way and I don?t rev it hard until the engine is fully warm, I guess the oil does have a comparatively easy life.

Why did you go for the 1.9Tdi and not the 2.0TDi, I hear you ask? Cost, both extra leasing charges and benefit in kind, plus the GT Tdi came with 16in wheels and I wanted the quietest ride. (I was given a 2.0Fsi on 18in wheels as a courtesy car once ? the racket they made was heard all too clearly within 100 yards, literally. A lovely fun car ? for 5 miles of bends, then jolly tiring).

Pundits complain about the cheaper quality of the MkV compared to the MkIV ? all I can say is that despite the MkIV having had leather (I didn?t spec that car, I took it over at 20k and took it to 99k), I didn?t feel short changed at all. Although the seats don?t seem so comfy initially, they are much kinder to my poor old back than the leather sports seats were.

There is a trace of turbo lag that was absent in the 110Tdis that I ran, however I now recall that the 90bhp Tdis (Audi80 and old Passat) had a similar slight lag ? I presume that the variable vane turbo in the 110 eliminated this.

Some observations on features and options:
- auto interior mirror: excellent, I only notice it when it?s not working (when the passenger map light foils the sensor)
- auto windscreen wipers: usually quite good, but cannot handle mist or fine spray ? I?d rather have intermittent capability
- auto headlights: very good, they even operate in those ?coming out of the low sun? on bright mornings. Would be very useful in Switzerland to ensure headlights are on in the tunnels?
- foglamps: I got them as emergency illumination in case of headlamp bulb failure (as MkIV bulbs difficult to change, MkV bulbs appear to be easier to change (but have to unbolt rear light clusters to get to bulbs!)), otherwise waste of space.
- rear seats fold without having to remove headrests (MkIV hassle), but squabs are fixed, therefore floor not truly flat when folded
- tailgate no longer lockable (questionable usefulness in a hatch)
- the std semi-automatic aircon does as least a good a job of maintaining a steady interior temperature as the climate control units in the MKIV, ?S? reg Audi A4 and the LagunaII Tourer that I?ve had, so that was money well saved. (The ?97 Passat?s Climatic was pure set?n?forget though ? excellent)
- the RDS Traffic announcements still work when listening to AM; the radio can be set to store the announcements so I can check the state of the M4 before joining it in morning and evening.
- I?m still not sure what the enhanced multi-function computer gave me exactly, although I can alter the auto anti-hijack door locking/unlocking and central locking control of single/all doors and window opening via the menus, instead of having to visit the dealer.
- The sunvisors, having been swivelled to the doors, can be extended to the back of the door for those times when the sun is at 2 to 3 o?clock
- It?s only needed a couple of tiny paint chips touching up on the bonnet (though the windscreen has survived a couple hits from large stones)
- ESP standard, never know when you might need it, but
- Traction control ? that?s what your right foot is for?
- Cambelt and tensioner changed at 80k, as per service schedule.


My only regret is that it hasn?t a 6-speed gearbox; PoloGirl recently reported that she can get over 600 miles on a tank in her Sport, if driven carefully, which is more than I?ve ever managed.

Still, 90k for just 4 tyres, 2 sets of wiper blades and a sidelight bulb, at 52.25mpg (brim to brim over the total distance), I mustn?t grumble?

JohnM

{edit to remove double reference of car make/model in header-DD} Read more

boxsterboy

Glad to hear of happy Golf V owners. A mate has the 1.9 with the DSG box that is close to 100k, no problems. I had a test in a 170 DSG and that gearbox would tempt me to buy a VW again, I think.