December 2007
So, I thought I would throw this one out to you all.
I've just started a new job, and recently bought a new flat. The impact is that my journey to the office is now only a 5 mile round trip. Saying this, there is a lot of long distance driving needed to see customers. At the moment, I am predominantly getting the train - however my legs are getting tired of standing for an hour + every journey I make.
So, I want to get a new car, probably through a personal lease for 2 years as my company car scheme doesn't offer me significant enough benefit.
But enough of that.
What I am looking for is something that will be fine for the daily short journey I do, but also be comfortable enough for when I need to do the journeyts from Reading to Durham for example.
It seems every time I read about an Alpha (I like the look of the 157) it says this is a real drivers car. But there are always questions about reliablility.
What's the take of the masses? Do any of you own an alpha? How is it holding up? Any other cars you might recommend?
Ultimately, I want something that is comfortable and fun to drive. If it is economic as well - thats a huge bonus, but not the be all end all :) Read more
Uncle looking to change his car and its between two cars.
03 Fabia 1.9 diesel 70k trim level he can't recall £4,300 with £1,500 trade in on a car worth £1,000 tops so say £3,800 for cash.
Or 02 Focus 1.8 diesel 70k trim again he can't remember. Same money.
The Focus has a tow bar which always makes me suspicious plus Uncle says it smelt damp which the dealer said was because it had just been valeted.
He is aware of the misfueling saga and wants to know if there are any signs to look for.
I saw the Fabia less £200 squids unless its an Elegance in which case its on the money but open to your comments. Read more
Cars from the class above the Fabia or the Focus are not much dearer but
don't be tempted. Running costs are higher.
Don't be daft - running costs are very similar especially with broadly similar engine sizes. I can think of nothing about the Fabia that is noticeably cheaper than the Focus. They've probably even got the same size wheel/tyre combination. Tax will be the same. Everything about them is likely to be the same.
I have all my A3's documents and can't find anything that says what horsepower the car is.
The car data sticker says 1.9 TDI sport - which i know, but is it 100, 110 or 115 bhp? Is there an easy way of telling?
I have a problem in that the car's acceleration frequently fades away to a 'plateue?' if you know what i mean. This happens before you would expect it as I'm sure it's not near the top revs for the gear. This is most apparent if just started and going up a hill.
Local audi dealers looked at the air mass meter but then decided it might be the turbo. That was 6 months ago and it hasn't got any worse - just annoying.
The dealer i bought it from said they thought the car had been chipped to bring it to 130bhp but had no proof and i have no way of knowing - it certainly doesn't feel like 130 bhp.
Its a TDI sport 2001 and has 72,000 miles with a cared for history. It's due a service in a few weeks and I want to know whether i should go for a new turbo
any thoughts anybody?
cheers
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The entire spec and option codes are on the label in the spare wheel recess. Regards Peter
Previous car was a 2003 Picasso Hdi - loads of problems, including pump failure at 10K. (warranty covered this)
Presently driving 2005 Mondeo TDCI (130bhp, Euro IV). No major problems (apart from gearbox out to lubricate splines on input shaft - as clutch not always disengaging)
I usually buy a 6-9 month old car shortly after my existing vehicle gets its first MoT, so I'm looking at changing mid-2008.
What should I buy? Friend has a 2005 Honda Accord diesel - certainly not been trouble free - just had a new stability module - also put off by label in door jamb saying 'Check oil daily' - but hers isn't using oil.
So - what is a reliable diesel? Interested to hear your comments.
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After engaging a solictor I have finally managed to get Ford to repair my faulty 2006 Mondeo TDCI under warranty. The repair will be £1500+ and the hopefully the last of several visits to the Ford dealer.
The engines have known weak spots (even the Ford service manager told me that they are not that reliable). Apparently there were some "mistakes" in dealing with my problems and the dealer has now apologised for the delay and inconvenience and agreed to support a repair under warranty - although it did take two letters from a solicitor to get to this point.
I would not recommend these cars.
My previous car was a Fabia VRS. Handling was not as good as I anticipated but at least it had a reliable engine.
Would appreciate any help / advise please...
Last week, my fathers FORD SCORPIO (will call CAR C) was parked up on the road with another vehicle parked behind (will call CAR B) he was indoors when he heard an extremely loud smash of cars crunching.... On investigation / witnesses advised that:
Car (A) was a passing vehicle which came down the road too fast and rammed into the rear of parked car (B) - which then caused car (B) to be shunted into my dads car which is car (C).
(A) hit (B) pushing (B) into (C)
CAR A - drove away, no details of vehicle known (HIT & RUN)
CAR B - smashed up rear (hit by A) - smashed up front (pushed into C)
CAR C - my dads car, smashed up rear.
Initially we did not consider this as a major problem as the vehicle which hit my dads vehicle is still present, and we have the details of the vehicle, which have been passed onto insurance Co. stating that we want to claim from car B insurance.
Insurance Co. are now saying that we, (CAR C) can NOT claim from CAR B insurance as there was nobody in car B at the time of impact ??
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Surely, CAR C can claim from CAR B and then CAR B claims from CAR A insurance companies? or motor insurance bureau in this case ?
Or as likely in this case, CAR C can claim from CAR B and then CAR B insurance Co. has to settle the bill for damage to cars C and B as no other party to forward claim to ?
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I am at a loss to understand why my fathers insurance company are stating that we can't claim from the vehicle (B) which ACTUALLY hit our vehicle?
What is the point in having insurance then, if it becomes invalid when parked ? Read more
The question I have is this - is rental car company liable as employee pinched key to go for a jolly. The owners of the Astra & punto are my neighbours and they assumed I would claim of the astra, who in turn would claim of the punto who then claim off the owners/driver of the KA, even the Police suggested that would happen. That way they only run the risk of losing one NCB if the driver was uninsured. They are not too keen on potentially losing both if the Ka doesn't pay up. Who claims off who is still not clear.
[Names changed to protect the innocent...]
Local ***** dealer invited me to bring my 2001 ****** in to have the throttle body replaced (recall item due to sticking, apparently). Got a phone call today saying the work was done, went a bit like this:
Dealer: "Do you know that one of your tyres is illegal?"
Me: "Well, I knew it was getting low, but didn't think it was that bad..."
Dealer: "Ah, but it is, Sir. Down to 2mm on the edges and nothing on the crown. Bit dodgy, y'know?"
Me: "Really? You gave it an MOT last week and said it was fine - even though I queried the tyre. It's not even on the list of advisories."
Dealer: "Uhhh...."
Suffice to say I got a new tyre at a bit of a discount, and the new throttle body seems to have done wonders to the low end performance, so I'm not complaining. So kudos to the dealer for spotting that it needed doing, even on a 7 year old car, but I'm a bit surprised that the tyres aren't an issue.
Does the MOT check that the tyres are up to the legal minimum, or simply that they're black, round, and attached to the car?
{Dropped the word 'Honda' from the subject header, as this discussion relates to all cars, and not one specific make - DD} Read more
This would work okay to MoT specs if your car wears its tyres evenly;
Most cars wear the edges of the fronts quicker, but Merc's are noted for it, and for wearing the centres of the rears. I run the fronts slighter higher pressure and the rears slightly lower (I'm talking about a couple of lbs) in an attempt to help even the wear out a bit.
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663051
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Heavens to Betsy - The Beeb faking things. Whatever next ?
And on Top Gear of all programmes!
Surely you are all mistaken, as I thought that everything I saw was all above board without smoke and mirrors.
I'm thinking of buying a new one of these here in Sweden. The engine is a 3.0 4JJ1-TCX 163HP, and auto transmission.
Are these durable engines, or do they suffer from EGR/blown turbos/leaking injectors/fragile pumps etc.
And who makes the transmission? Do they last the course/need super duper fluid etc? Read more
Hi all - My first post, can anyone help?
Just bought 95 AX and have noticed a problem just after starting up. If I don't leave it to warm up for a few minutes, the engine bogs down when I use the throttle. Release the throttle and it revs again. Only happens when it's cold. As soon as it warms up it runs well. There was a slight burning smell whilst trying to run it cold and some smoke around the exhaust pipe (not coming out of it)
I thought it was the autochoke needing adjusting or sticking, but the engine has a Bosch monopoint fuel injection system, so no choke.
Have a receipt from 1 week ago for investigating starting problems - garage said exhaust was blocked causing spark plugs to foul up. They replaced the sparks and fitted new back box. Not sure if it's related?
As I say it runs fine once its warm so not too bothered but am worried about doing nothing and things getting worse.
Any advice much appreciated!
Maceman
slt
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Maceman
Sorry; your previous post seems to have slipped past without me noticing it - probably a Christmess thing.
Yes; 51 is a catch-all HEGO code - the only one in the list. No LOS facility fitted to these; but if the over-fuelling was persisting for 30 minutes, then it could, maybe, be involved in your black smoke/soot.
I'm still thinking faulty coolant temp sensor - which won't normally leave a code for the coolant sensor - but may flag a code for the HEGO/Lambda because it's not sweeping, just reading too rich.... [Simple this ain't.]
If you've got a meter, then it's in the end of the head next to the coilpack [maybe a white or green clip-on plug?] and should have 3,500 Ohms across it's two pins [disconnected] when cold and 240-ish when hot.
I have a Citroen C5 (8000 Miles) Engine has only just developed an overidding Engine tapping noise ONLY after warm up, say 2 miles.Predominant on accelerating under load at low speed. Noise is lost when at speed. It is not there when revving in neutral.Noise is above the normal "Deisel" engine sound.Noise heard in driving and passenger positions. Any suggestions
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Engine details and year would have been nice. As it's some sort of HDi, then a cracked injector is possible if it's a regular "tappet" sort of noise.
An irregular rattle could be a front pulley; or a knock-knock-knock a DMF failing.
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One top akr to help with your dislike of Germanic motoring:
Spyder is a German term. An Alfa will always be spelled 'Spider'.
Go for it: The Brera Spider is a fabulous looking car.