November 2007
I'm having a problem with my 2000 W-Reg Jaguar S-Type - Basically, the heating system doesn't work. The A/C works, and all the rest, but when you put the setting to warm, cold air comes out. No matter what setting you use, it's still cold air that comes out, and I've tried various combinations to make sure that there is no other way to make it work. I'm assuming that maybe the heater is broken? Radiator? Some wiring somewhere? (Although I doubt it, since everything else works perfectly). Anyone else had this problem? And what happened? Thanks. Read more
I have a problem with SWMBO's Polo Twist 1.2 which has the optional remote central locking.
The hatch will not open using the handle which should trip the electric lock. The only way is to use the key.
Supplying Main dealer has had 4 attempts at repair under warranty, they say "that they replaced and resprayed the handle" Excellent job as they managed a perfect paint match and even replaced the dirt!! Interesting that they con their principal. It works for a few days after they try to repair it. Car is now out of warranty and they do not know what is wrong. After this dishonesty and inability to find the problem, I am reluctant to let them play about at my expense.
I have taken off hatch door trim and probed for 12v feed, nothing. I do not have a circuit diagram so would be grateful for colour code of feed. Possibly of broken wire but unlikely in 20,000 miles, I would have thought?
Has anyone any ideas?
Thanks
John Read more
Seems a bit like ancient history. Over 4 years and no other posts.
I had exactly the same problem on my 2004 polo 1.2 swing. The last contribution was great but I checked everything out with a multimeter and all 4 micro switches worked perfectly.
I then moved along the harness to the pair of connectors on the near side (uk) of the boot. I belled these out too and no joy. When I looked the the condition of everything it was pristine.. No watermarks, no leaks, no corrosion.
So after a while I decided to chase the wiring to the next connector. Deep in take of breath and started pulling off panels and snapping a couple of fasteners in the process as I always do the first time.
At this point I found out the next connector can be reached simply by lifting the carpet on the side of the car directly underneath the near side rear parcel shelf pivot. Older and wiser now.
Ta-da there was the problem. Leaking union on the rear washer pipe. Corrosion on both connectors so a bit of contact cleaner, some scraping and a spray with silicon oil to keep new water out and all working again. Will get a new union when I get it serviced next week and it's all done.
Hope that is helpful
My wife has just got a new shape TDCi 130 Mondeo. Twice now it has lost power whilst she has been driving. Power goes for a couple of seconds, she dips the clutch and then lifts it and it starts. The phone drops the bluetooth connection suggesting an electrical power cut as well. Not sure if the electrics are cutting the engine or the other way round. I have searched the net and found a lot of people with power loss problems on TDCI 130 but all older cars. Is this the same engines in the new model? Has anyone else come across this? We are waiting for a dealer to look at it but I want to know if it is a bigger problem. If this happens on a bend or at speed then it could be deadly as the steering and brakes go as well. I know you can still use them but they are very hard and if you are not prepared then it could cause a crash. Read more
hi hp4020,
i'm glad to hear that it now seems ford have admited problem instead of blaming driver,fuel,etc and now seem to have sorted it....hopefully.
i am awaiting delivery of another mondeo and i hope that this is the end of the cutting out fault and that i can look forward to many miles of hassle free driving in my mondeo which this problem apart is some car to drive.
1.6 petrol
Feels extremely well made, very quiet, drives well for a tall car. Plenty of room in the front, fantastic seats, a bit tighter in the back. Rear visibility could be better but nothing to worry about.
Will let you know how I go on.
H Read more
Maybe my expectations started from a low base given my experiences to date.
My wifes 6 1/2 year old 1.2 Fiat Punto has hardly missed a beat ironically at 50,000 plus miles....
Hi there,I was jump starting my girlfriend's car the other day and it seems I managed to disconnect my battery in the process. Now when I try to start the car I get 'engine immobiliser fault' flashing up on the display and although the car turns over it will not start. The remote key no longer works and I have to lock/unlock the car by physically putting the key in the door. Have tried changing the battery in the fob and also disconnecting the car battery for a couple of hours - neither of these having any effect. All the electrics still seem to be working fine.Another thing I need to mention is that I bought the car off ebay a few month's back and despite being promised them, I don't have any keycodes, manual, service history, etc.Is there anything I can do to clear this or do I need to take the car into a Peugeot Dealer? Many thanks.Regards,Paul Read more
workolio
I've got a nasty feeling that you've got the first generation of the Built-in Systems Interface boxes on a D9 406 of that year.
It looks as though it has corrupted it's own software and forgotten it's key transponder codes because it wasn't re-booted correctly after battery disconnection.
It's worth having a go at re-synching the central locking fob and seeing if that jogs it's memory.
Ign off; press and hold the big button until the LED goes out. [Both buttons if you've got double-locks.]
Release button[s]; LED should stay on.
Press button[s] twice.
Ignition on.
Ignition off.
Wait 5 seconds and try locking the car with the fob.
Re-programming the keys to the BSI needs the security pass card that you don't have; so you'll have to get it trailered to the dealer; or buy a new pass from them [a lot of ID needed] and call in a specialist auto-locksmith.
If the BSI is corrupt; then you'll definitely need the dealer to fit a new one - ouch!
Hi everyone,
I'm a new user, can anyone help?
I bought a 12 month old VW Golf (on the long-life service plan) about 2 years ago and didn't have any problems until i took it to my local dealer for a service and mot.
The car passed the mot, so no worries there i thought.
Approx 2 weeks later the engine management light came on (now out of warranty) so i booked the car in to be seen. By the time i was due to take the car in, the warning light had gone out and the dealership said don't bother bringing it in as the diagnostics machine won't show any problems.
The same thing happened again 3 weeks later, light on - rang dealer, light off - dealer cancelled booking.
The car is now two months out of warranty and on monday i drove the car to the dealer after the coolant warning light had been on. I noticed coolant under the car on the drive, so i topped it up and drove straight to the dealer without ringing first.
I have now been told the radiator's had it and also the engine management light had been coming on because of a sensor/switch under the accelerator pedal so i need a whole new pedal. How they determined this i don't know because the engine management light wasn't on when i took the car in on monday.
Can someone please advise what to do as it seems strange that i've not had any problems for two years, then i take it to this dealer for the first time for a service and mot and before you know it i'm expected to pay £570 for a car with full vw service history, just out of warranty and less than 17,000 miles on the clock! Read more
You drive a Merc and go on about the snob value of a VW, shome mistake surely.
My Passat had her eighth birthday last week, she has passed all 6 MOTs without even an advisory. The only thing to go wrong in this time has been a broken electric window mechanism.
My wife's Golf has been faultless in the 18 months we have had the car.
My dad had several Mercs in his time, you needed a mortgage for a service. I reckon if the Merc costs 30K, it is 25K for the car and 5K for the badge on top of the bonnet, just to remind you that you have "arrived".
When I drove the old man to Heathrow and went into the left lane he told me that Mercs shouldn't go in this lane! This has explained a lot!!
Does anyone have any advice regarding my bonnet lock, its is stuck and will not open. I only have 1 key, the one that operates the central locking etc. Have tried to open with no luck it seems to be jammed shut.
{year picked up from a previous post of yours} Read more
Problem solved.I purchased a new key from Ford,it did not do the trick.I then spent 2 hours trying to solve the problem,don't ask.After trying the new key in all the other locks and finding it fitted none of them i filed a small amount off the front of the key,hey presto.
Many thanks all the same Fullchat
I am driving to down to Innsbruck next week on holiday and seeing as I have all season UK tyres, need snow chains which I believe are mandatory in some resorts.
Has anyone ever used tyre snow socks, and do they work. Plus, do the police over there except them? Read more
Yes as far as I am aware they are TUV approved but as I said nobody will check.
I have a Vectra Design (April 2006) 1.9 CDTI (!50PS) automatic saloon. After 24.5K miles the gearbox started to make "jerky" changes when changing down when up to working temperature. This only happened when under load and from 6th to 5th or 5th to 4th, but not on the overrun, i.e. changing down under braking, or when just slowing down. On one occasion I used manual override to change from 6th to 5th and I was left with no drive to the wheels, the engine on maximum revs (it was in cruise control) and doing 70mph in the outside lane.
The cas has spent 4 weeks with the Vauxhall dealer in which time it has a new gearbox, a new ECU and then another new gearboxes fitted before the dealer believed that the problem had been fixed. All of this work was done under warranty with guidance from Vauxhall technical support and included about 180 miles of testing. Having got the car back I am not convinced that the problem is fixed, except that it may now happen and slow speeds, e.g. in a slow moving queue, or when accelerating from slow speed, e.g after a roundabout.
Does anybody know what could be causing this kind of problem? Why would it change from higher speeds to low speed?
slt Read more
It may not be a lot of consolation to rapb but I have had exactly the same problem. Same car, about 32k miles. It lost drive completely on the motorway and I had to have the car recovered to a Vauxhall garage. They replaced the ECU and returned it but the same thing happened after 10 miles. They then replaced the gearbox. It took about 3 weeks under instruction from Vauxhall.
It works now but occasionally (about once every few hundred miles) it gets a gear change wrong. Either it goes into neutral and then finds the gear with a sharp thump or just changes unexpectedly.
The trouble with something like this is it's bound not to happen if the Vauxhall garage take it out for a test drive and now its just out of the 3 year warranty.
Someone at Vauxhall HQ knows about this weakness and isn't telling us!
Hi,
Hope somebody can help,
I bought Zafira 2.0 DTI on 04plate less than 2weeks ago,
A few days ago the EML came on first start up of the morning.
I let it tick over for about 30 secs, turned the engine off and restarted and the EML was gone.
It happens every day now on first start of the day, restarting gets rid of the EML.
I have had a zafira few years ago and my new one feels underpowered in comparison.
I have read the other post's but any further help would be really appreciated.
Many Thanks
Found tacked on to an old post in Discussion, moved it in here where you'll get the best help. Read more
hi,
unsure if it just the place i work, but we would get a 'Tech 2' ( genuine saab and vauxhall diagnostics machine) and see what codes that brings up, as it normaly brings up diffrent and correct codes to other equipment,
this would have surely found the boost pressure fault, but upon giving this code, we(my place of work) would also manually check the turbo as to make sure that it is not just boost pressure sensor, you could check the turbo yourself simply by taking of a air hose to the turbo and checking for any free play within the turbo mechanism, and also by starting up your vehicle and getting someone to rev it up to around 3,500 rpm and check that the waste gate is also woking as this could be an issue, by revving up the engine it should engage the turbo openin the waste gate, this can clearly be seen via a push rod moving as the vehicle revs,
just a couple of ways to check for a turbo fault yourself,
however upon saying this, it could just be something a little as a vacuum pipe not seated correctly else where,
hope this helps.
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I have a 2002 3ltr petrol S type and suffered the same problems as in this discussion thread. After reading the comments I decided to drain the system. As with your comments the underneath bottom panel has to come off (real hassle) after that it was pretty straight forward. I drained the system flushed it through with water. After doing this a couple of times I decided to run the engine standing and there was no improvement. Flushed it through again and took it for a spin. The heat started to flow so I kept going down the motorway changing the heat setting from hot to cold to get the valve moving. Fortunately this seemed to work. I then drained the system again and refilled with antifreeze. I have used the car daily for a week now and the system seems to be working well, fingers crossed it will continue. If it does I will be doing the same thing next year.