November 2007
I have a problem with SWMBO's Polo Twist 1.2 which has the optional remote central locking.
The hatch will not open using the handle which should trip the electric lock. The only way is to use the key.
Supplying Main dealer has had 4 attempts at repair under warranty, they say "that they replaced and resprayed the handle" Excellent job as they managed a perfect paint match and even replaced the dirt!! Interesting that they con their principal. It works for a few days after they try to repair it. Car is now out of warranty and they do not know what is wrong. After this dishonesty and inability to find the problem, I am reluctant to let them play about at my expense.
I have taken off hatch door trim and probed for 12v feed, nothing. I do not have a circuit diagram so would be grateful for colour code of feed. Possibly of broken wire but unlikely in 20,000 miles, I would have thought?
Has anyone any ideas?
Thanks
John Read more
1.6 petrol
Feels extremely well made, very quiet, drives well for a tall car. Plenty of room in the front, fantastic seats, a bit tighter in the back. Rear visibility could be better but nothing to worry about.
Will let you know how I go on.
H Read more
Maybe my expectations started from a low base given my experiences to date.
My wifes 6 1/2 year old 1.2 Fiat Punto has hardly missed a beat ironically at 50,000 plus miles....
Hi there,I was jump starting my girlfriend's car the other day and it seems I managed to disconnect my battery in the process. Now when I try to start the car I get 'engine immobiliser fault' flashing up on the display and although the car turns over it will not start. The remote key no longer works and I have to lock/unlock the car by physically putting the key in the door. Have tried changing the battery in the fob and also disconnecting the car battery for a couple of hours - neither of these having any effect. All the electrics still seem to be working fine.Another thing I need to mention is that I bought the car off ebay a few month's back and despite being promised them, I don't have any keycodes, manual, service history, etc.Is there anything I can do to clear this or do I need to take the car into a Peugeot Dealer? Many thanks.Regards,Paul Read more
workolio
I've got a nasty feeling that you've got the first generation of the Built-in Systems Interface boxes on a D9 406 of that year.
It looks as though it has corrupted it's own software and forgotten it's key transponder codes because it wasn't re-booted correctly after battery disconnection.
It's worth having a go at re-synching the central locking fob and seeing if that jogs it's memory.
Ign off; press and hold the big button until the LED goes out. [Both buttons if you've got double-locks.]
Release button[s]; LED should stay on.
Press button[s] twice.
Ignition on.
Ignition off.
Wait 5 seconds and try locking the car with the fob.
Re-programming the keys to the BSI needs the security pass card that you don't have; so you'll have to get it trailered to the dealer; or buy a new pass from them [a lot of ID needed] and call in a specialist auto-locksmith.
If the BSI is corrupt; then you'll definitely need the dealer to fit a new one - ouch!
I have a Vectra Design (April 2006) 1.9 CDTI (!50PS) automatic saloon. After 24.5K miles the gearbox started to make "jerky" changes when changing down when up to working temperature. This only happened when under load and from 6th to 5th or 5th to 4th, but not on the overrun, i.e. changing down under braking, or when just slowing down. On one occasion I used manual override to change from 6th to 5th and I was left with no drive to the wheels, the engine on maximum revs (it was in cruise control) and doing 70mph in the outside lane.
The cas has spent 4 weeks with the Vauxhall dealer in which time it has a new gearbox, a new ECU and then another new gearboxes fitted before the dealer believed that the problem had been fixed. All of this work was done under warranty with guidance from Vauxhall technical support and included about 180 miles of testing. Having got the car back I am not convinced that the problem is fixed, except that it may now happen and slow speeds, e.g. in a slow moving queue, or when accelerating from slow speed, e.g after a roundabout.
Does anybody know what could be causing this kind of problem? Why would it change from higher speeds to low speed?
slt Read more
It may not be a lot of consolation to rapb but I have had exactly the same problem. Same car, about 32k miles. It lost drive completely on the motorway and I had to have the car recovered to a Vauxhall garage. They replaced the ECU and returned it but the same thing happened after 10 miles. They then replaced the gearbox. It took about 3 weeks under instruction from Vauxhall.
It works now but occasionally (about once every few hundred miles) it gets a gear change wrong. Either it goes into neutral and then finds the gear with a sharp thump or just changes unexpectedly.
The trouble with something like this is it's bound not to happen if the Vauxhall garage take it out for a test drive and now its just out of the 3 year warranty.
Someone at Vauxhall HQ knows about this weakness and isn't telling us!
Hi,
Hope somebody can help,
I bought Zafira 2.0 DTI on 04plate less than 2weeks ago,
A few days ago the EML came on first start up of the morning.
I let it tick over for about 30 secs, turned the engine off and restarted and the EML was gone.
It happens every day now on first start of the day, restarting gets rid of the EML.
I have had a zafira few years ago and my new one feels underpowered in comparison.
I have read the other post's but any further help would be really appreciated.
Many Thanks
Found tacked on to an old post in Discussion, moved it in here where you'll get the best help. Read more
hi,
unsure if it just the place i work, but we would get a 'Tech 2' ( genuine saab and vauxhall diagnostics machine) and see what codes that brings up, as it normaly brings up diffrent and correct codes to other equipment,
this would have surely found the boost pressure fault, but upon giving this code, we(my place of work) would also manually check the turbo as to make sure that it is not just boost pressure sensor, you could check the turbo yourself simply by taking of a air hose to the turbo and checking for any free play within the turbo mechanism, and also by starting up your vehicle and getting someone to rev it up to around 3,500 rpm and check that the waste gate is also woking as this could be an issue, by revving up the engine it should engage the turbo openin the waste gate, this can clearly be seen via a push rod moving as the vehicle revs,
just a couple of ways to check for a turbo fault yourself,
however upon saying this, it could just be something a little as a vacuum pipe not seated correctly else where,
hope this helps.
I'm having a problem with my 2000 W-Reg Jaguar S-Type - Basically, the heating system doesn't work. The A/C works, and all the rest, but when you put the setting to warm, cold air comes out. No matter what setting you use, it's still cold air that comes out, and I've tried various combinations to make sure that there is no other way to make it work. I'm assuming that maybe the heater is broken? Radiator? Some wiring somewhere? (Although I doubt it, since everything else works perfectly). Anyone else had this problem? And what happened? Thanks. Read more
I have a 2002 3ltr petrol S type and suffered the same problems as in this discussion thread. After reading the comments I decided to drain the system. As with your comments the underneath bottom panel has to come off (real hassle) after that it was pretty straight forward. I drained the system flushed it through with water. After doing this a couple of times I decided to run the engine standing and there was no improvement. Flushed it through again and took it for a spin. The heat started to flow so I kept going down the motorway changing the heat setting from hot to cold to get the valve moving. Fortunately this seemed to work. I then drained the system again and refilled with antifreeze. I have used the car daily for a week now and the system seems to be working well, fingers crossed it will continue. If it does I will be doing the same thing next year.
During the Christmas/New Year period I'm going to have to make a significant length journey with a full load of five people which will require the rear tyre pressures to be increased from 32 psi to 46 psi. The airline at the nearest petrol station is expected to be out of order until a refit in January so I have to make alternative arrangements. I've done a test with my footpump and it took a tiring 250 strokes to do just one tyre, so I'm not keen on that one.
Could you recommend an electrically powered pump? I don't want anything too expensive because it won't get used that often.
--
L\'escargot. Read more
not sure I'd fancy inflated digits.... :)
Just bought a 1997 Corsa 1.2LS 3 door for a newly qualified driver.
One or two things to sort out. A Haynes manual is a priority.
Think the thermostat needs changing as the temperature only climbs a bit on hills.
Where is the thermostat?
Not got a handbook or manual yet. Any free downloads around?
Drives very nicely but a bit pre distressed bodyworkwise.Watch this space.
Read more
Hi all,
I think I must share my experience. The last time the timing belt was replaced on my car (Corsa B 1.4 Swing 1993) was in 2004, and I got it changed today. Meaning after 9 years! The car drive 36,000KM during these 9 years, mostly short distances, and was rarely driven for more than 1.5 hours at a time. But the car was used almost every day! I read on so many forums like this, that the timing belt for Corsa B should be replaced after 4 years in any case. Well, this is certainly not true. I may have driven easily for two more years, but just got it replaced for safety. By the way, I live in North of Norway, where average winter temperature is -10 C, and average summer temperature is +10 C. So my advice to those who have Corsa B 1.4 Swing, and do not drive the car for long distances, should not worry about changing the timing belt for at least 7 years!...
I have a May07 a6 avant with xenon and steering 'linked' lights. I travel to France twice each month and noww winter is here am using the car in the dark in France. Audi say that I cannot use headlight deflectors due to the heat generated by the lights and don't know whether there is an adjuster to switch the lights from LHD to RHD.
Nothing in the manual.
Can you help. Audi say take it in to the dealer every time I need to change. Apart from the costs, the practicalities of this are ridiculous.
Can you help?
Great car by the way. Read more
They are adjustable. There are two versions in this period. One has a lever inside the headlight unit, but you have to remove the steering fluid header tank and the airfilter the back of the head lights and the HID connector to reveal the lever if you have one. The units with out the lever are adjustable via Vag-com if you know what you are doing. Regards Peter
Does anyone have the optional factory fitted DVD sat in the new Mondy?
I'm just about to order one and would appreciate views from anyone who has one at the moment.
I'm particularly keen to know if it has Postcode lookup and TMC service.
Also, is the Bluetooth phone kit any good?
Thanks in anticipation ........
Robert
SLT Read more
Seeing as this thread has been revived, there are some improvements thanks to later versions of the Ford satnav software. I have a Mk IV Mondeo (57) with the built in kit. The supplied DVD was as described above, but I got a free upgrade to the 2008 DVD for some reason. Most of the shortcomings above are no more. Full postcode lookup, phone list scrolling done by steering wheel buttons (viewed in instrument panel rather than on satnav screen, 3D view now available - and probably other enhancements that I can;t think of.
The traffic info (TMC) is very good, as is it's predicted ETA - often within minutes, even on long journeys! I haven't spotted any quirks in the routing.
This is now a better than average unit, mainly as it is fitted, but I still wouldn't pay for it as an extra.
Browse
Seems a bit like ancient history. Over 4 years and no other posts.
I had exactly the same problem on my 2004 polo 1.2 swing. The last contribution was great but I checked everything out with a multimeter and all 4 micro switches worked perfectly.
I then moved along the harness to the pair of connectors on the near side (uk) of the boot. I belled these out too and no joy. When I looked the the condition of everything it was pristine.. No watermarks, no leaks, no corrosion.
So after a while I decided to chase the wiring to the next connector. Deep in take of breath and started pulling off panels and snapping a couple of fasteners in the process as I always do the first time.
At this point I found out the next connector can be reached simply by lifting the carpet on the side of the car directly underneath the near side rear parcel shelf pivot. Older and wiser now.
Ta-da there was the problem. Leaking union on the rear washer pipe. Corrosion on both connectors so a bit of contact cleaner, some scraping and a spray with silicon oil to keep new water out and all working again. Will get a new union when I get it serviced next week and it's all done.
Hope that is helpful