November 2007
A friend owns a Corsa which has been unused for some weeks. It started reluctantly on some cylinders and eventually all four. The tickover was smooth and it was left to warm up fully. Unfortunately when driven it would not accelerate and was parked up. Now it will not start at all, no fuel is coming through as there is no spark. I have checked the plastic drive to the distributor but that is ok. I'm sure you guys will be able to suggest what to check next. Thanks in anticipation. Read more
Hi
I've been having a problem with starting my Golf TDI (1Z engine) for the last few months. I checked and replaced glowplugs and wiring but that was not the problem. Someone suggested I should check the injection timing as it may be too far retarded. I bought myself the VAG-COM software and lead, plugged it all in and discovered the timing was indeed too retarded.
A couple of weeks ago I advanced the timing and set it within the specified limits and since then it has been starting faultlessly. Great!
The car had been difficult to get warmed up for sometime and last week a local garage changed the thermostat for me. Car now warms up much quicker. Car was still starting OK.
Car had been difficult to warm up as I mentioned previously. On tuesday I got the garage to replace the thermostat and it has been much better the last few days and still been easy to start.
Yesterday morning I got in the car, its not particularly cold and its difficult to start again! Back to where it was before! When I got to where I was going, the engine was nice and warm, I checked on the VAG-COM and the timing it says on the graph is too advanced (above the top line). So I thought maybe I'd advanced it too far and needed to retard it a bit. Not sure why it would have changed?
Left the car round a friends house for 6 hours or so. Started it up and it started OK. Turned it off straight away, went indoors for a coffee, came out half an hour later and tried to start it and it was rough again!
Drove home, plugged in VAG-COM, plotted out the TDI-timing graph again and its back to saying "Timing to retarded to be plotted!"
I thought maybe the pump was loose, but I opened the bonnet and from the marks I made then it looks to be in the same place.
I read out the fault codes and it found two (below). The top one was on there a couple of weeks ago, but I ignored it. Not sure what either of them mean.
Control Module Part Number: 028 906 021 AF
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC SG D80
Software Coding: 00000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
01117 - Generator Terminal DF Load Signal
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00550 - Start of Injection Regulation
17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent
Any ideas anyone?
Thanks
Rob Read more
The needle lift sensor on #3 is the detector of start of injection. I'm not ruling it out; but there's nothing showing on it yet.
That fuel shut-off code was probably generated by disconnecting the 3-pin plug - it's the other pin.
Work on the alternator wiring and see what turns up.
I have a 53 reg diesel mondeo (26000 miles only) which is having problems similar to sootyboy's car. My car just cuts out intermittently and this always happens at low speed, mostly while i am approaching a roundabout or traffic signals. I took it to my local mechanic rather than the main dealer and he has now had the car for almost a week, he has still not been able to get to the bottom of the problem. however he suggests that it might be the fuel pump which may need to be replaced.
can someone please advise if they've had a similar problem with their car!
(added in make/model from the pull down options)
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had a sort of same issue with my Focus TDCi 03 plate , i paid £2000 for the garage (ford dealer0 to change lots inc the diesel pump. after 6 months it was found to be a chaffed wire under the gearbox. Meanwhile I had problems daily j
I am just about to claim my money back. I am yold I will get it,
Shame really as I would have loved to take them into sonme form of action over this.
Incidentally a Ford Field engineer (and I could name him - I'd rather you didn't - DD}) told me I needed a new engine because I had con rod damage.
Incidentally the Ford Customer Relationship centre is useless, they kept closing my claim and restarting it with a new ref number so as not to embarass their statistics as mt case went on so long.
I am days away from a meet with Ford to find out what they intnd to reimburse me as I am claiming the £2K garage bills and costs like lost wages etc taxi fares etc etc.
I have a TV channel who are keen to feature this.#
Plus other options on hold.#
Incidentally no one ever , dealer or ford said sorry.
WHY should I ever buy another new car off FORD can anyone say I should after being treated like something on the sole of their shoe.
I've just replaced all four discs and pads on SWMBOs Mazda MX5 as it failed its MOT on these items.
I have been unable to get the brake shims back in despite making sure that the pistons in the calipers are fully home. I have been doing jobs like this for years and usually manage to get them back in with a bit of juggling!
So option one is to use the car for a few miles and see if the initial wear allows sufficient room for the shims which of course they eventually will (the new pads had some abrasive compound on them to clean an old disc. I would imagine that this will wear off in the first few miles), but my concern is, if I take it back to the testing station on Monday, could they fail it again if they notice that these shims are missing? Read more
The car has passed its MOT without the shims.
Thanks for the advice . I will get some new Mazda shims in the next few days and see if they will go in!
mjm, thanks for the offer of the alloys, but SWMBOs car already has alloy wheels.
I need new front tyres for my Leon FR TDI, down to the wear markers after 16k miles on the factory fit Pirelli P Zero Rosso, it's on standard 17" alloys and if I remember correctly the tyres are 225x45
I've been quite happy with the Pirellis, but then I've nothing to compare with on this car. I drive it hard and it has a big heavy diesel engine so I suppose 16k miles is acceptable for the fronts (plenty of tread left at the back)
Anyway, I can now join Costco as I work for the NHS, and I was wondering if this would be worthwhile just for the tyres. Can anybody give me any advice as to what they stock (a lot of mention of Michellin in previous threads), likely costs and what tyres if any I should go for?
Many thanks. Read more
I have a Mk2 Leon on 224/45/R17's and am currently running Dunlop SP SportMaxx on all corners. After 20k km the fronts have about 3-4k km left in them, the rears look like new. I find they give a good balance of grip and longevity as the Leons are known to eat tyres if tracking is even slightly out. They are also good in terms of ride and road noise.
Previously had Goodyear Eagle F1's which were excellent but 16k km of careful driving and the fronts were shot.
I have recently bought a 2.2 D4D-X Avensis diesel which has developed what I think is a problem. On recent cold mornings the tick over speed has increased from the usual 800rpm to 1200 rpm. It settles down again to 800 rpm after about 5 miles, or 10 - 15 minutes. I am new to diesels but am surprised that the tick over is so high for so long. On warmer days it starts and stays at 800rpm. I have had it back to the dealer and they assure me that this is perfectly normal as diesels do take a long time to warm up. Are any other owners seeing the same symptoms? Do I have a problem or am I fussing about nothing?
Cheers
Graham G
slt Read more
If you switch off the heater/aircon/climate control/whatever you want to call it, the car will idle at 1000 revs instead of 1200. Mine is 2.0 D4-D and I noticed this on a cold morning in Jan.
Hi,
I've got a 2000 W plate Omega 2.5 V6 CDX which has climate and air con. My problem is that when the heater is on, the only vents that blow out hot air are the rear ones!! That obviously shows the heater matrix is working and that the car is arriving at the correct running temperature at some point.
If using the demister or opening the front vents or actually the heater anywhere in the front, I turn into an ice cube very quickly!
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Simon
slt Read more
I reckon topbloke is probably right about a vacuum hose, but might be worth resetting the controller first, just in case, and it's easy. Can't remember the exact sequence on an Omega, but it'll be in the manual. Something like holding down the AUTO and OFF buttons then switch the ignition on, or something like that.
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3 guys marooned in the Sahara desert after a multiple pile-up all decide to carry something from the crash that will help them get back to civilisation.
The first rescues a windscreen washer bottle to drink from.
The second finds an umbrella - It will keep the sun off and if it rains he can drink from it.
The third is carrying the door from a 1964 Vauxhall Victor.
Why? ask the other two.
Well, if it gets hot I can always wind the window down....................
Hello, hope someone can help
I have a 97 polo 1.4 8v {added to header so that people can see beforehand} and it is causing me concerns. It starts fine when cold but sounds loud and uneven on idle just after starting. Once the car is warmed up it will not idle steadily but persistantly the rev counter drops to about 800 and then rises to 1200 for a second before settling back down to its idle of about 1000 rpm. It repeats this regularly about every 5 seconds or so.
The car also hesitates when pulling from low revs but has no problems higher up the rev range. It is more difficult to start when left for a few hours after being warmed up, and requires me to hold the starter motor on for a few seconds after the engine has first caught.
So far I have replaced the distributer cap and rotor arm (both worn) and oil, filter and air filter. I blasted the throttle body intake with carb cleaner which improved things for a bit, though this is still black inside (is this normal).
The coil seems okay (mutimeter tested), the spark plugs are beautiful (just like the picture of what they should look like in the haynes manual) and the ht leads are new (though of dubious quality and slightly high resistance readings about double what they should be) they were fitted when i bought the car.
Everyone i speak to suggests something different to replace and i cant afford all of them.
Please can someone point me on how to test what is really wrong with this car.
Many Thanks
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Cleaning and resetting was worth a try; but it's clearly not worked if the revs are doing as you say.
I'm not that surprised if it needs a new throttle body - and yes, VW parts are not inexpensive; what have they quoted £400+? If they're right; it will only continue to get worse.
Hi,
My mother is picking up a 56 VW Polo auto today but having checked the VW website it looks like they offer standard servicing and variable servicing on these cars.
The car is a Sept 06 car so if it is on standard servicing it should already have had its first service. If on variable servicing it may not have had its first service yet. (it has done 11k)
Is there are easy way to tell if it?s on standard servicing or variable. I used to have an Audi A4 and on that you pushed a ?spanner? button on the dash and it told you when the next service was due. Does the Polo have a similar set-up?
Many thanks
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My 11 month old 1.4tsi Golf has done 10k miles, & is on LL services.
Since I'm old enough to remember cars where you had to grease the suspension every 300 miles, I just cannot bear leaving the original oil in it any longer.
The car says it's good for another 9k miles, but today I used my Pela to remove the old oil & filled it with Comma 5W-30 synthetic long life / 504 spec. ( about £35 on the net ).
This might well be "overkill" but I will sleep better at night.
Browse
MT, in case your post was in response to mine, let me explain in more detail what I meant.
I wasn't in any way suggesting that bad advice had been given (that really would be the height of hypocrisy!). I was saying that in all likeliehood, I would have gone down the same path myself.
The thrust of my post was to say that yes, it's great when we get feedback about how a problem has been sorted, but that it's wrong of other readers of the backroom to then automatically go away thinking that this is in some way a common fault likely to afflict his/her vehicle.
In more cases than not, it's best to do proper diagnosis, rather than to fix via poke and hope and via simply copying previous stories you read off the web.
Number_Cruncher