September 2007
Hi Guys,
I have a problem with a bad egg smell from the windscreen washer. This is a result of leaving plain water in there for too long. Slap. I'm wondering what is the best way to eradicate the smell. If I just keep filling it with a good washer solution will it go eventually?
Or could I put something like Milton fluid in, leave it overnight and then spray it out through the jets without affecting the paintwork? Haven't got the means to pump fluid out into a bucket. I don't think removing the washer tank is simple although haven't looked closely.
Greg
S Read more
I foolishly sent my V5 off for an address change, but now want to buy a number plate for my trailer. Is there any way it can be done? Read more
Good ol' ebay to the rescue.
You can get a 'show' plate with standard font etc, ie perfectly legal, or a proper plate that's no different. For the proper plate you have to send them a copy of your licence and V5 - isn't that a bit dodgy?
Hi
We bought this car yesterday and we were under the impression that it had power steering but it doesn't appear to. On driving it feels like it does, but on parking and manoeuvring it's really heavy
The ad said it had power steering and we've had a look under the bonnet and can't see any obvious reservoir - should this model have it?
Many thanks
Problem inserted into subject line - PU Read more
cheers
He did say that he'd change the UJ first and see what difference it made and then failing that it would be a new rack
Hopefully it's the former!
I wonder and have mulled this over for many any year now, as to why manufacturers include in there ever lengthening list of model variants, 3-door version of their run-of-the-mill cars?
Ok, special coupés, sports models and exotica are excepted of course, but why would anyone select a 3-door version of, say, a Fiesta, Astra, Focus or Golf against that of the more sensible 5-door version?
I do appreciate that the former may save the future owner a few hundred pounds but measured against the inconvenience of 3-door cars, I cannot understand the reason for their choice. Almost invariably, the the 3 door versions, as a necessity, have to have much longer side doors to ease access to the rear seats and this alone makes it more difficult to get out of the car especially if, due to your lack of height, you need to have the driver's seat very close to the steering wheel.
In my opinion, 3 door cars, don't look as 'nice' as the 5 door version and are a danger in the event of an accident as the people in the rear cannot be extricated so easily.
I could go on and further expand on this argument but I think that most of you will have already formed a view.
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I rather like most 3-door designs for their cleanliness of line and I don't really
see why a bigger door should be harder to get out of...
I agree 3-door cars are, by their very nature, aesthetically cleaner and less fussy. But longer doors can be a problem if, for instance, you find yourself parked in a Sainsbury's car park with a Chelsea tractor on either side...
Out of idle curiousity, how many cars have sliding rear seats that allow one to choose between giving more knee room to back seat passengers, and creating more room in the boot?
I have encountered these on the Nissan Micra and Toyota Yaris, and thought it was a great idea - but I gather that not many manufacturers are taking up the idea. Read more
Current-model Panda does if you order the split-folding rear seat - I think. We didn't on ours.
I changed the clutch cable on my Golf Mk2 a few months back and thought that would do the job, but I am finding that the clutch is automatically adjusting itself - only it is not meant to as it's supposed to be a manual adjustment.
It is adjusted by turning a nut along a bolt to tighten or slacken the cable, but the nut seems to be making its own way along the bolt over a period of weeks (more like the bolt pulling itself back and the nut winding down along the bolt). Does anyone know if this means my clutch is on the way out?
I could try putting another nut on it to jam it in to place, but I am reluctant to even drive it now as the last time I had a problem with the clutch cable it snapped and I had to pay to have the car towed. Read more
>>Tight bend!!-developed for LHD and forced into RHD.
Yes! Have you seen the 'quality' of the routing on some Renaults!
Typically, the clutch cables begin to wear through their plastic protection in the corners. Because this wear is a gradual process, most owners don't realise their clutch pedal is feeling heavier.
When Vauxhalls were predominantly cable operated, I used to report back to customers as part of a service road test if I thought the pedal was getting a bit stiff. Typically, this meant that most 4-5 year old cars were needing a new cable - they were both cheap and really easy o fit (once you had developed a knack for the spring retainer on the top of the clutch pedal)
Number_Cruncher
has anybody had any success with those devices that claim they can pull the dents out of your car? I have a fairly small one on the back corner and was wondering if one of these could be my saviour - any feedback - good or bad???
s Read more
I've had success with shallow dents in the past using suction cups. They can be found in various sizes in engineering supply places. For deeper dents where the paint is still ok I've seen amazing results whereby a guy uses levers with different shaped ends reaching in behind blind panels etc and teases the dent away. If you really mean a dent puller that's usually attached by a screw or even a weld and is for more serious work that also needs refinishing. Never tried the C02 and hair-dryer.
My 198 A4 Avant brake warning light illuminates whilst the brakes, fluid and lines are all OK, having passed the MOT in this condition. Audi want the usual fortune to replace faulty parts; is there a cheaper way? I am not mechanically minded.
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Jack up the front (I would suggest LHS first) and remove the roadwheel.
If you are non technical, seek advice on anything you are unsure of and never, ever, go underneath a car on a jack. To do this job, you don't need to go underneath.
The wire you are after is the one which runs beside and is parallel to the hydraulic brake hose. The arrangement looks a bit like a thick and a thin wire running side by side but, obviously, the thicker one is a hose.
Follow the wire upwards to its fixing bracket and then onwards into the inner wheel arch. The connector is located here. It will have a locking latch - you may need a small screwdriver to release it.
If you are non technical, limit your activities to a safe inspection of the wiring and connector - do not interfere with the brakes themselves. Best of luck.
659.
I am experiencing a strange noise when accelerating, this occurs in all gears, for a few seconds after changing gear (until the revs increase). The only way to avoid this is to hold a lower gear for much longer than usual before changing up. However to do this means that I can only use 4th gear at 40mph , 5th gear at 60mph and 6th gear at 70mph
The noise sounds like a vibration but it may be something else.
There is also a smell of unburnt fuel. I do not know if this is connected to the noise problem or something separate.
Any suggestions what the likely problem is? Read more
hi i have a 2004 mondeo tdci 130 zetec i also had the same noise on acceleration i took mine to t.c.harrison ford at burton up on trent and it was found to be the intercooler pipe work this cost 85quid for the repair hope this information helps
2005 Mk3 facelift mondeo, fitted with a Ford singleCD 6000CD stereo. As of this morning, the stereo does not go off when I switch the ignition off. It is not in the "One Hour" mode, I've tried all combinations of switching it on with the ignition on, off etc. but it will not go off with the ignition. Iknow it's only atrivial thing and I can switch it off manually ok, but it's a bit of a nuisance having to remember to switch the radio off every time I switch the engine off.
Is there some menu setting to activate/deactivate this feature or is it broken ?
Would the stereo be covered under the extended (free 3yr) warranty if it is broken ?
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2005 Ford Mondeo Zetec 2.0 TDCi 130ps
s Read more
Thanks for the quick reply bb, I did realise that it would need re-coding and I've no problem doing that and I've got the code, the stereo doesn't have a removable front, it's the facelift type.
I'm thinking it's either an intermittent fault or I'm losing it because I've just been out in it and it seems ok now ??????
The radio was off when I started the car (I had turned it off manually last time I switched it off) I switched it on whilst the engine was running and when I turned the ignition off the stereo went off as it should. I'll see how it goes, no doubt if I took it to the dealers it would perform perfectly well.
;0)
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2005 Ford Mondeo Zetec 2.0 TDCi 130ps
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'Overdossing' is what happens to me when the alarm doesn't go off! You are right about not mixing brands though - I have done this and the resulting was very glurpy and didn't flow well thru the nozzles. Welcome to the forum BTW!