September 2007
A friend of mine has just bought a renault clio which has a vacuum pipe running from the back of the engine to just behind the drivers side headlight. The problem is this pipe is not connected to anything. There is also a 2 pin multi plug connector at the same location again plugged into nothing. Can someone please shed some light on what should go here as we are both stumped. When the engine is running there is a clear sucking noise coming from the pipe. Could this pipe be plugged into somthing to do with either cold start of emission control?
Thanks in advance for any help on this subject
s Read more
My emissions warning light came on temporarily in my 2004 1.9 dci Scenic. Renault servicing says requires a new EGR valve at £500 plus! When I declined, they said it might just be sticky and need cleaning but they don't do that. They just replace it. Are they trying it on do you think? I've only just bought the car 4 months ago from a Renault Dealer with a years warranty. Of course, Renault say this valve isn't covered by the warranty because it's a "component"! What do you reckon Honest John?
s
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uncleben
So any "component" isn't covered by the warranty....? They can't have many successful claims.
This dealer is a disgrace to even this disreputable marque. Ring Renault Customer services and complain. The EGR valve is only around £150 [replacement is the best move.]
The Sale of Goods Act now provides that any fault appearing within six months of sale will be deemed to have existed at time of sale unless provable otherwise. No "components" are excluded from that one!
The CAB; your legal cover; [if any] a solicitor, or Trading Standards will advise.
I have just bought a friend's 1999 model A4 B5 1.9 Tdi Avant (auto) for a smallish sum. It's very high mileage (175,000 ), but everything works, there's no rattles, the bodywork is in good condition, and it drives well. It was maintained up to 120,000 by the local Audi dealer, and then by a big fleet-maintenance operation, so has been looked after. Has only been used for motorway journeys.
The only thing I could find wrong when I test-drove it, was a vibration on the over-run, most pronounced at around 2200rpm, most noticeably when cruising at 60-70mph. Same vibration is also evident when revving the engine whilst stationary. So, it seems there is some coupling of the engine to the bodywork in some way, particularly when the drive-train is driving the engine. I reckoned it could be engine mounts, exhaust mounts or routing, or similar.
I took it along to my local independent Audi specialist for them to diagnose the problem, but, having spent a half-day looking at the car, they have informed me that they are not sure what the cause is. It's not the exhaust, or any pipe-work, They feel it may well be the engine mounts, but rather than waste my money on trial and error fixes (they didn't charge me anything, which was nice), they suggested I try to find someone with some other ideas who may be able to pinpoint the exact cause, eg maybe Audi dealer with access to a database of problems and symptoms.
So, whilst applauding the honesty of the independent Audi dealer (and also the fact that he didn't charge me anything), I am back to square one.
Anyone have any ideas? What's the cost of a speculative engine-mount change?
Paul Read more
Frogeye
Well spotted. So that's eliminated one possibility.
[Glasses - must get new glasses...]
Hi
I have a problem with my 2002 A4 130bhp tdi. I noticed that it has dropped on the rear driver?s side corner.
I swapped the standard 16 inch wheels for a set of standard OE A4 17 wheels about 3 months ago which went on without a bother. Indeed I was pleased to see that the drivers door placard which gives recommended tyre pressures quotes the rim and tyre combination that I have on the new wheels.
Anyways I got a puncture due to a screw through this tyre, and when I threw the car on the lift I noticed that the wheel was hard to turn. The calliper was binding a little, but after a generous welt with a hammer it seemed to free up, however then I noticed that the wheel was fouling a little on the wheel arch cover just at the top of the spring. When I looked at the tyre on the inside wall I could see that yes it had been rubbing, but it was not polished and the ?spikes? of rubber that a new tyre has were still there on the portion of the tyre that had been rubbing.
So I refitted the wheel and lowered the car off the lift, and drove it in and out of the garage to ensure it was settled properly. On the drivers side I can just get two fingers between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch, but on the other side I can four in easily. The spring looked intact and the shock does not show signs of leaking? I did not have time to investigate further. The car has 90k miles on it so I am going to get all 4 shocks replaced anyway. Any body any idea what else I should be looking at? The car still seems to handle ok and none of the bounce I would expect with a duff shock
I know that people do not rate the sports springs on the newer Audi?s but what of this vintage? The car does sit a little high with the 17?s on but I would rather live with that look than rock hard ride. I am only really interested in OE kit, I am not into really low cars or adjustable suspension.
Comments welcome on what else could have caused the issue with the dropped corner and the ride quality of a 2002 A4 TDI on Audi Sports suspension and 17 inch wheels.
BTW It does not rub when I have my old 16 inch spare on.
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So I replaced all 4 shocks and springs which fixed the ride height issue in the rear right corner, but there was nothing obvious wrong with any of the springs that came out. I am very puzzled, but glad there was nothing serious wrong.
I went for standard springs in the end as I knew that the suspect corner did not have a broken spring and was nervous that I might need the extra height of a standard spring to cope with any underlying issue, but it does look like a bit of a monster truck?. Ahh well?.
So anyways I can only assume that the one spring went weak, which I am more than a little surprised about. Has anybody else seen a spring go weak?
I have noticed the ESP is kicking in a lot more, so I suspect I need to get a 4 wheel alignment done.
51 reg 307 has only done 50k miles, the temperature gauge has hardly ever moved off zero from new . Last week it started to suddenly move right off the dial (not incrementally) and the cooling warning light comes on the dispaly and the red stop lights flash. There appears to be absolutely nothing wrong with it, the header tank level is normal, no steam, no water loss, the electric fan (s) are tripped in , radiator and pipes all feel fine. Car restarts fine sometimes it will run for a while before doing it again sometimes it does it straight away. Yesterday I drove 40 miles no problem, and halfway back it did it again. I presume some sort of sensor , but grateful for any help, Kind regards Read more
thanks, any idea where the sensor is located ? I hope the bumper doesn't have to come off
Hi
I have a 2004/54 Mondeo TDCI 130PS, which has had a misfire/hesitant problem at 1750 to 2500 under low throttle, it has been back to the dealer a number of times and below is what they have done in the order they have done it, all under warranty.
Upgraded ECU
Changed Air Filter
Changed Injectors
Replaced EGR
Replaced MAF
Every time they have done some work the problem gets better but still exists, the symptoms are less frequent and less pronounced but still exist, I am getting to the end of my patience as every time they have the car it is almost a week.
Any ideas as to where I should point the dealer to look as they dont have much of a clue.
John Read more
Hi John,
Welcome to the Disgruntled Ford Owners Club! Your complaint would appear to be identicle to the issues I posted on this website last week (Thread name : Meganathorus - under the "Discussion page" : Ford - faulty diesel injectors, hesitation on accelerating). May be worth a read. The details you describe are mirror problems encountered on my 2006 (55plate) 2.0DTCI Focus estatevehicle.
I am quite astonished that my local location deleted Ford Dealer seem incapable of sorting out the problem, and only when the "TechnicalDepartment of Ford UK attended the garage were they able to return a car to me in mint condition (last February). Sadly the condition returned, and after 4 further weeks without a vehicle, they returned it to me with the issues unresolved! I am now seeking redress through Ford's Customer Relationship Centre at Coventry. ( PO Box 4430 Coventry, CV3 9BH). Strangely enough FORD do not appear to face up to the public in person, but chose to utilise a PO Box No for their complaints!
I have recently completed a round trip from Warks to York & back, using 2 full tanks of BP Ultimate Diesel. Certainly worth the extra pence per litre, and it has certainly given the car improved performance, but not cmpletely resolved the hesitation at low revs/when cold.
What is your like at the upper end (@ 4th, 5th or 6th gear ? ). My car goes like a rocket once you enter 4 inot 5th and the turbo kicks in, and easily unleashes (CAUTION) 80 - 90 with ease. So the issue is at the lower end of the gears and at low speeds.
Worth looking through this website, search on the factors which are causing you the issues (injectors, hesitation, diesel fuel issues) . I found high volume of info on faulty Ford Diesel injectors/ hesitation issues and poor acceleration in Ford diesel motors
Good luck.
I seem to remember that it was some sort of particular offence to splash a pedestrian by driving through a puddle.
Well, having got soaked this morning by some eejit I'd like to pursue him all the way to the Court of Human Rights. I have his registration number, where do I begin?
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Agreed, the condition of roads affords the opportunity to soak; around here buses are the best/worst at soaking people.
Hello,
Our C-Max 2.0TDCi recently started suffering a grinding sound around the rear. It is the Ghia model with the electronic parking brake.
Well it's gone to the garage and they have diagnosed that the rear brakes and disks are completely worn and want to replace them. Cost = £220.
This seems a bit of a blow for a 2yr car with 20K on the clock. Is this indicative of a problem or is this to be expected? Its a Ford Direct car btw.
Any thoughts people? Read more
Rear disc and pad wear can happen much quicker than expected because discs rust when they're wet.
Rust is very abrasive so wears the pads, and it also corrodes the discs. There's little braking force applied to the rear of most cars, so unless you're regularly braking hard then you're not going to clear the rust off and the pits in the disc will continue to grow. Brake harder more often to clear the rust off them and the rear pads and discs will last much longer. You will, however, increase the wear rates on the front discs. There's no such thing as a free lunch!
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I read often, only post occasionally
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I'd be a bit dubious about this. We have very clayey soil to which I apply lots of compost. After a big bonny some years ago the ground was covered in ash but on digging it in I found that all the humus had been burnt out and below the ash was hard baked clay - took lots of compost to bring it back to decent soil again.
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Phil
Hi Guys,
My Daughter has an '02 Corsa 1.2 which is immaculate. However, she's asked me how easy it would be to fit Air Con to the vehicle. I've thought of getting the stuff off a scrappie but does anyone know if the heater is different? Anyone out there done this before? I can do all the work myself but would like to hear from anyone whose either done this before or looked into doing it.
Look forward to hearing your advice and guidance
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am... Read more
Thanks for the definitive answer. I don't think I'll bother. Winters here as autumn this year was August, so I don't think overheating is so much of a problem.
Again thanks.
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
Sounds like rebuild after accident!!