September 2007
Just suffered an engine cut out. The AA recovery suggested it could be diesel pump or pick up pump issues.
Any thoughts or comments or anybody with previous experience.
PVCu man.
s Read more
When I dead lock my central locking, the 20amp fuse blows. I've gone through 3 in a matter of a couple of hours. Could the relay be on the way out or is it something more sinister? Read more
Hidden within Bell Boys fevered and mad ramblings...
Yes, it's odd, he's normally so sane and measured!
Anyway, the fact that the fuse is blowing consistently is actually a *good* thing! That the fault is always present is good, because it's much more difficult to find intermittent fault. It will be easy to probe the wiring at the central door locking relay and measure which part of the circuit is causing the short.
As mentioned, the problem is much more likely to be in either a door shut or the tailgate than anywhere else in the system.
In an albeit weak defence of Vauxhall electrics, at least they aren't anything like French electrics!
Number_Cruncher
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 15 *****
***** This thread follows on from VOLUME 13 *****
Another thread for commenting on rare, unusual, old or just plain daft cars etc. 629669
----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------
PU.
Read more
Weissman GT?
Hi guys,
I need to change my front discs and pads on a vectra 1.8 LS (03).
Was gonna have it done locally but after having the car serviced at erm... a well known independent garage and them greasing but not tightening a loose drivers door hinge, I have lost confidence and the main dealers charge too much.
I know that you have to be careful not to damage the brake fluid pipes on the callipers and that you need to be careful that the fluid doesn't overflow when you put new pads in and that you have to pump the brake after each side. Have watched someone do it on other cars in the past but im scared something will go wrong. Is there anything I need to watch out for and are there any awkward/stubborn nuts and or bolts. If anyone could provide a simple step by step I would be really grateful as there isn't a haynes manual for this car yet. And before anyone asks, yes, I am a (weekend mechanic) !!!! ha ha. Read more
Oops! That how2 only tells you "how to" change the pads.
Apart from needing a 7mm allen key to remove the pads, you'll also need a large torx bit (female, not sure of size) to remove the other part of the caliper from the hub assembly. You'll also need another allen key or torx bit (again, not sure what size) to undo the disc from the hub.
Picture of caliper:-
forum.vectra-c.com/showthread.php?t=27311&highligh...2
Might be worth your while looking around vectra-c.com before you start for some other pointers.
Hi Guys,
I had an oil change done one this car at well known chain garage and they put in 5w30, I did the rest of the service according the haynes manual but the manual advised 10w40 or 15w30 should i rechange the oil?
kush
{Subject header changed to reflect question being asked - DD} Read more
There has been a suggestion that the shorter the span from XW to XX (i.e, 0W/30) the better, as it implies less reliance on viscosity improvers. However, the main benefit from some grade such as 0W/30 is that the base oil is likely to be synthetic, which is relevant to oxidation and high teperatures, for example at the piston rings, or turbo bearings. Mineral based oils tend to be 15W/XX etc, and more liable to degradation. That in itself is not really enough: surely its the call of the engine mfr to decree the quality required as well as the viscosity. So, some indications, such as Ford or GM, VW or Merc quality designations over and above the ACEA sequences. That should be enough, unless you have recourse to advice from a tribologist, which is a rare on a forum and even rarer at a dealer!!!!
I've currently got a mazda bongo which i use for short trips to teach dog training and weekend trips on the motorway but the m.p.g is killing me 25 around town and 30 if im steady on the motorway do 70-80 and it drops well into the 20's.
Im thinking of selling/trading it and getting a large estate such as:
Bmw 528/530
Merc c240/250 e230/320
Volvo t5
Subaru legacy
Mitsubishi vr4
the 2 jap options seem good value for money(imports) and i import garage will hopefully be more intrested in the bongo, but the main thing is the estates m.p.g? Read more
in reply to nick62 > Would you buy another one?
Never bought or run the same car twice so unlikely. Notwithstanding that, I think, given the same amount to spend, I'll be pushed to better it when change time comes around. The car (spec B auto) is only 3 weeks old but the engine is already sublime and "SID" (Subaru Intelligent Drive) works well with the auto box. In Sport Sharp mode and with the paddle shifts the throttle response is instant and it will rev to the red line unless you back off. You asked about torque, it has plenty but it still needs revs - up to 3,000 it is quick and from there to 6,000 it just leaps away but not at all diesel like in its delivery which I like. I had a 2 litre manual loan car for a day (when mine had its 1,000 mile service) and that had to be revved much harder to extract the performance.
In about 2002/2003 Jaguar changed the engine from 4.0L to 4.2L.
(1) Why did they do this?
(2) Will a 4.2 use more petrol than a 4.0?
I'm thinking of getting one, subject to not getting sacked from current job and fulfilling other private business objectives.
s
Read more
The 4.2 is slightly more powerful and slightly more economical.
Check the Jaguar.co.uk website "locate a used car" section to compare the technical specs of the different models.
Kevin...
I have a Scenic 1.9 dci dynamique coming up to three years old and and am thinking of selling it shortly. Although I have not got an exact price in mind, i expect it will be around £7500ish. At this price level can I expect much interest from buyers or do people paying this amount or more head off to the dealers for peace of mind/warranty. I would be selling at least £1500 cheaper than the dealers. Anyone with recent experience? Read more
Thanks jacks, I think you`ve answered my question
does the primera III 1.8 engine have a chain cam? reliable car?
s Read more
Just sold px our Y reg 1.8s
Got it as a replacement after my Grand Move was written off.
The Primera came with full service history 1 owner.
In two years of ownership from 83k miles and doing 30,000 ourself we had to:
1. Replace Air mass sensor (Nissan Dealer robbed us of £400 but we found out later it is a diy job and will only cost £50). :(
2. Damaged aircon radiator and pipes (£300)
3. Some rust on bottom of passanger door
4. Clonking suspension fixed by changing front arm (at £60) so not bad.
5. Tyres changed as per usual
6. Air bug sensor is faulty but who care
7. Exhaust front and back at £280
8. Parts are cheap :)
this car had oil change every 6k and was serviced as per Nissan manual.
All in all the engine is good forever but a bit noisy, gearbox is good as any Japanese but a bit notchy.
In my view an exellent car for very little money (You get loads of toys in the basic S). The engine can probably go forever even when the car is falling apart around it.
Anyone know if there is a Haynes or similar repair manual for the Mazda 2. If not would the manual for a ford fiesta be any use?
Thanks obbig
s Read more
Then there's a very good chance that the fuel filter didn't seal correctly and air has got into the pump - not nice to get rid of on those pumps.