September 2007
i have a 2000 1.4 16v golf that keeps on cutting out when i am slowing down this doesnt always happen thought it seems to only be at the times when i have the clutch down and turning round a corner is it my bad driving or is this a problem with the car if it is a problem can someone advise what this problem could be and how i could remedy it
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On the A36 a white transit was stopped in a right-turn lane in the middle of the carriageway with its hazrads on. Broken down? No, the driver was on his mobile! When a right-turning car came up behind, the van signalled left, pulled left from the right-turn lane and continued along the main road. This was on a busy 50-60 mph road. Read more
worst I have seen is a guy on a Honda 50, turning left from Bishopsgate into Wormwood Street. He pulled out his phone from a waxed jacket pocket, flipped up his helmet visor, held the phone 5" from his face and proceeded to shout into it. He appeared to be a courier.
Hi
We have a renault scenic where the heater/air con light comes on ok (so the fuse is ok) but the heater fans don't work - any ideas? Read more
I have a Y Reg 2.0L 16v version with similar problem - Was only working on setting 1 and 4 and now has stopped altogether. Any ideas??
One of my number plate bulbs went on my Passat estate. I know because a kind motorist on the A6 was flashing their headlights and blowing their horn at me last night. Thought my car must have been on fire or a wheel departing at least.
Anyway I undid the screws today and , surprise surprise, the number plate had to be removed as well to get access.Replaced both bulbs while I was at it.
Replace both front dip bulbs as a precaution as well. The filaments on the Osram Silverstars were visibly eroded after two years use but they definitely give a brighter beam.
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Our 2003 53 Reg Mondeo TDCI (115bhp) recently cut out just after refuelling. It had run enevenly just before refuelling.The engine would restart but only run for a second or two. The AA did a diagnostic check, which seemed to indicate a fuel pump problem. The patrolman cancelled the fault code & eventually started the engine. He followed the car to our local Ford dealer where they confirmed it was a fuel pump fault.
By now the car had run perfectly for 20 miles. They said they could not check anything as the fault had been cleared & the car was now running perfectly.
The Ford service people suggested the fuel level had been low & that sensors had detected air in the system which cut out the fuel pump to protect it - either that or dirty diesel (The tank was actually one third full on refuelling.) Although the car now runs OK, I read an answer in your column (15th Sept) about a BWW diesel with intermittent fuel pump problems (stalling) which you suggested could have been due to bad earths on the fuel tank lifter pump or its relay. Could this have been responsible, or as you say would it not have shown up on the diagnostics. Our car has also occasionally stalled on pulling off ever since we purchased it at 6 months old, even with resonable revs - The head-honcho at our Ford dealership merely says that they are prone to this!
Any thoughts?
{Post reformatted to remove all the >>>'s - DD}
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Time to sell, now- before the big bills roll in -sorry
I'm looking to trade in my MK2 Galaxy for a new car and would appreciate it if someone could give me a fair trade in price from a trade source rather than the likes of Parkers / WhatCar etc.... I want to avoid being done over!!
Car in question:
Oct 2003 Ford Galaxy Ghia (Model 03-06)
1.9 TDI (115 BHP)
Metallic Silver
70,000miles
FSH
12months MOT
10months TAX
All 4tyres have >6mm tread
New spare
Includes factory fit DVD multimedia
Some stone chips to front bonnet, small small dink on drivers door, rear bumper has scuffs on upper surface.
Please note that the price for my new car is at the RIGHT price so there can be no chancing of the dealer to offer me more for this Galaxy than it is really worth. Like they say, focus on the cost to change.
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Good colour
Turbo Diesel
FSH
12 months MOT
10 months tax
DVD
on the negative - only the usual stone chips,small ding & scuffs - easily and (importantly) cheaply fixed by the trade.
It's a popular car/colour/history/tax/DVD - he should be looking for top book trade in £8300 IMO!
J
I recently received a letter from a company which claim to hold records of the code etched on my car windows, as well as the radio code and ignition key number.
The vehicle in question was recently bought by myself (2nd. hand),and these details were probably given to them by the previous owner.
They are asking for a one-off payment of £20 to re-register the information in my name.
Since I already hold these details ,and take a dim view of unnecessary insurance anyway, my instincts tell me I would be wasting my twenty quid. What do the B/R`s think? Read more
Is it Retainacar?
Yes it is. Can`t see the point of paying for them to have the info as it would be forthcoming from the dealer anyway.
My SIL's Serena 2.3D is guzzling and has lost power, people following behind reckon they could smell diesel, possibly unburnt. Redex initiated to eliminate carbed up injectors didn't remedy it. You out there Injection Doc? Read more
Well, fuel filter was replaced recently, but is sound as a pound. Any more suggestions out there? Diesel engines are not my thing so I'm stumped....
I have just reached 40 and am wondering if I am having a mid-life crisis.
As some of you may know from my previous posts, I had decided to buy a year old Honda Accord diesel for my next car, but I now realise I have a problem. I have become obsessed about buying an MG ZT, the old shape with twin headlamps on each side, in trophy blue with the big spoiler. I think they just look stunning and there is nothing else like them on the road. I have driven the 2.5 V6 - what a great engine, all that sound and power above 3k revs!! And there seem to be good examples out there for ~£6k, which is half what I was expecting to pay for the Accord.
Am I crazy? My head says go for the Accord, but my heart says the ZT. I'm also thinking that, if I don't do this soon, there won't be any left, whereas I can always go and buy an Accord.
If I go for the ZT, I have a number of concerns :
a) Parts - how real is the problem of parts supply? Are there any parts which are just not available, and which if I didn't find, could take my car off the road?
b) Which engine should I go for? Attracted by the better fuel efficiency of the 1.8T, but I believe these engines have the higher chance of head gasket failure. Is this right? Is the 2.5 V6 the better engine, or does it also suffer from head gasket failure?
c) How reliable should the old shape be? What's the quality like? Do they suffer from squeaks and rattles? Should I opt for the new shape car if this would be more reliable?
d) What's a realistic mpg for the 2.5 V6 if I drive with a fairly light foot? Also, how much are the tyres and how long do they last?
e) When should the cambelt be changed and how much does this cost?
I accept that the running costs of the MG are likely to be higher than those of the Accord, but the depreciation (and initial outlay) should be less. Is the old shape car likely to be a future classic?
Finally, does anyone know of an MG specialist in the Wokingham, Berkshire area who I could get in contact with?
Sorry for all these questions, but I should be grateful for any advice.
Regards
Primera Man
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I can't comment directly on the MG ZT, but I did have a Rover 75 for a week as a rental car 3 years ago, so shortly before the company went belly up. I spend a lot of my life driving rental cars but what for me stood out about the Rover (and probably the reason why I can actually remember it) was the ride quality. Cars these days have such firm suspension setups that you think they've been fitted with square wheels. The Rover actually absorbed bumps and I found it a very relaxing vehicle to drive in the manner of an older Mercedes in the days before Mercedes-Benz tried to make their products drive like BMWs.
It was a 1.8T Automatic and I found the engine characteristics also well matched to the automatic transmission with plenty of low end pick up. All this managed to distract from the fact that the fit and finish was less than perfect, the dashboard was an acquired taste and the footwell was very cramped for my size 12s, a problem I normally only experience in french cars. I can't remember about fuel economy but it was probably rubbish, most cars are in my tender care;-)
Hi, I noticed a couple of months ago when getting new front tyres fitted that the drivers side outer CV Boot had a small hole. The MOT is due soon I've got the new kit, but before I fit it I remember many years ago Renault CV boots needed a special tool. A long cone was fitted over the CV joint and the small hole of the boot slid along the cone which stretched the opening enough to place it on the shaft, sometimes it even worked without tearing the new boot!
Is this still the case or is it easier now? Read more
Don't see why things would have changed.
Stretch boots and the cone tool cost about a fiver each.
See
www.buypartsby.co.uk/cv-boots-details.php?txtmodel...T


I agree with screw loose.
My wife's golf had a similar problem. It is not difficult to do.