September 2007
Afternoon all,
Out of curiosity, I did a DVAL RFL check on my old Passat. The results were it was no longer taxed, but also had an export marker against it. Now, I know I'm being *uber* stupid here, but I assume that means it's been exported...
Who on earth would want to export a 200,000 mile (when I sold it a year ago, so I assume around 210,000 now) 'R' reg Passat?
DB Read more
Having changed the ht leads and plugs on my focus i have still got a really bad and unnerving rough idle the car runs 'lumpy' (sounds like a vw camper) and loss of power on any sort of incline,although once the revs pass 2k it seems to clear but the power issue (hesitation) is still there..
Any ideas
bantam1
s
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fitted new coil unit ,,,,car now sorted .. many thanks to those who offered advice >> thanks for the suggestion..
I have a problem with my 1998 Punto 75SX where the Injector warning lamp comes on and the engine appears to be just firing on two cylinders. I've checked out the ignition coils, leads and connectors and the spark plugs seem to be sparking OK. Unplugging the connectors from the ECU and spraying them with contact cleaner sometimes makes the fault go away for a few days and then it comes back again. The Haynes manual doesn't show the injector wiring for the multipoint system so I don't know where they are connected to on the ECU to check out the individual connectors. Any helpful advise with this problem would be much appreciated.
s Read more
Plug leads? My wife's 85SX misfired badly but still exhibited a good spark when the lead was connected to a loose plug. The fault (failure) in the lead was scarcely visible and only had an effect when the lead was connected to a plug screwed into the head. The sparking current was shorting through the fault in the lead to the metal of the cylinder head.
I was behind an 04 reg Mondeo this morning and noticed an SCi badge, following a quick Google I now know it's a direct injection petrol engine. Has Ford now abandoned this technology?
s Read more
Looks like it got it's wish....
www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/index.htm?news_id=3993
The car is a 110 Hdi. I started my car and went to move, the car juddered then the engine light came on, it then went into limp mode and will not rev above 2800 rpm.
I have had the bottom crankshaft pulley and cambelt and pulleys changed a few months back, is this connected ? - Mod's assumption
The engine light wont go off sometimes it may flicker on and off but more on than anything and it sounds a bit rougher too,
has anyone any ideas ?
I jumped started the car on Sunday, would that have had any contribution towards it ? Read more
Touch wood "knock knock" replaced the fuel pressure sensor £180 got from pug in the end "no new wiring loom required on my car apparently peugeot say" disconnected battery and ecu to try and clear fault codes she now starts and is out of limp mode and seems to run like she used to.
Thanks for your advice screwloose.
Overtaken by a Seat Cordoba the other day and started musing on cars named after places.
Immediate ones that come to mind are:
Fords Capri, Cortina (and I suppose, the Anglia).
Morris Oxford
Austin Cambridge
Anything by Bristol or Lincoln
Must be many more but can't think of any recent examples ones since the Cordoba - perhaps all the good ones have gone?
PS: Not sure if we've covered this before - apols if we have
_______
IanS
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Yes of course that was the minx one bb...
I am referring to the link above with a pic of the Minx Californian, not something else whatever it was...
Not my week for electrics. Previa was fine yesterday but today I noticed the central locking didn't work, further investigation showed the radio, interior lights and ciggy lighter all don't work. Checked all the fuses and they're ok - relay somewhere perhaps? Read more
well finally had some time to look into this. Using a sharp probe was able to trace 12v along the white cable and up behind the dashboard. Unfortunatley it then disappears into an area I can't reach and somewhere in there must be a connector that's come adrift. I can take a feed off the A/C fuse (my car doesn't have a/c but the wiring is there) to the 40A C/B and this gives me back most of the circuits I was missing so it's not a dodgy earth or something else holding down the voltage. I really don't fancy dismantling the dash to find this so it may end up going off to the auctions if I can find a decent replacement. I only wish this had happened before I spent some money for its MOT - the joys of motoring! :)
My mum is having some grief with her 03 reg StreetKa.
Recently, the engine temperature warning light has been coming on sporadically, but there are no signs of overheating (no hot coolant smells, no steam or puddles, engine running/pulling fine). This has been joined in recent days by the fuel gauge behaving erratically.
I am assuming, maybe incorrectly, that the overheating warning is false. Certainly, there are no signs as mentioned earlier. The car has done 35,000 miles, and has the original coolant in it at the right concentration and the right level in the tank.
My best guess is a good old fashioned earthing fault, but with the unusual places electronics are employed in new cars, who knows? Can anyone suggest a good place to start, or provide any other input on the diagnosis?
It would be useful to have a temperature gauge rather than a light to see what the behaviour is prior to the overheat warning. I have not tested the car, but I have told mum what to look for as a sign that it is genuinely getting hot, and she tells me it has none of the symptoms.
Any advice gratefully received.
Cheers
DP
--
04 Grand Scenic 1.9 dCi Dynamique
00 Mondeo 1.8TD LX
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DP
He'd have loved checking the ECU plug - security plate on that year; all the rivets have to be drilled out.
We'll see.....
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 16 *****
As the title suggests, this thread is for all things Formula One and other general motorsport related stuff.
This is Volume 15.
Usual rules apply. When we get to around 100 posts, the thread will be locked and the next volume will start.
PLEASE NOTE
As with the IHAQ & the Computer threads, When posting a NEW topic, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each topic in it's own separate segment and stops each new topic from getting mixed up in amongst existing topics. Also please remember to change the subject header.
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If the Vettel-Webber shunt had happened on an ordinary road it would be a no-brainer, wouldn't it?
"Sorry guv, I was watching the guy in front of you and didn't realise you were still in my way.''
The real problem here seems to me that we are entering a new phase of audience participation - every race (or match, or whatever) will be subject to a post-mortem as the whole world looks at and pronounces their verdicts on odd bits of video on You-tube shot by spectators while the cameras weren't looking.
Presumably no race result will be available for any event until a few weeks of world-wide argy-bargy.
{edit to remove last sentence requested by author - DD}
Good morning, I have a 2001 Passat TDI 130 SE estate with 107k on the clock. It runs very well apart from one thing: it does not like accelerating above 3000 rpm. The engine hesitates and will accelerate but in a very jerky manner. Any thoughts very welcome please.
S Read more
Just skimming through this thread, this sounds like a failure of the Mass Airflow meter. (Is that the same as a MAFF sensor??).
The classic symptoms are that on VAG 90/110/130 bhp 1.9 tdi engines the performance slowly deteriorates and eventually will not rev above 3000rpm under load. Fit a new airflow meter which is after the airfilter housing and the car should be back to its old self.
As listed on previous threads I have had these replaced at £200 (garage) or £60 from GSF fitted myself in 15minutes.
www.vehiclelicence.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/index.jsp