Yes

These are to minimise the rolling resistance and therefore maximise your MPG.

I wouldn't bother.

Best of luck with your Yaris we had one as a lease car, rubbish compared to the panda, and not very nice to drive, cheap nasty plastic dash with that silly speedo in the middle

Take your car to a diesel specialist rather then a garage, they know what they are doing so are usually cheaper.

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All information submitted is strictly from memory and it is for general reference, if your unsure seek professional advice.

Wow that's crackers, any good mechanic would locate TDC on cylinder 1 and then note the cam positions, use the proper fork cam holding tool with a flat tool for cam shaft aligning, and to further secure the cams. There is on Zetec engines a slot cut out so an appropriate piece of angle iro can be used to lock the cams. Not all cranks have a wood-ruf key but tippex on all wheels and pulleys is an easy way to keep positions though. The crankshaft pulley nearly always has a notch cut out, and labeled with a drill indent example a and b which aligns with a lug or marking on the crankcase or sump. (most Fords rely on the B to align.) there is also notches cut out but be sure that the TDC notch is not mistaken for the other timing notch. other models of car have 2 countersunk dots drilled and 1 on the crankcase and the single dot aligns in between the 2 dots on the pulley. Also take into note that the 1 piston is on the compression stroke as not to confuse everything later. The easiest way is to see if number 4 cam is pointing toward the rear of the vehicle and pointing slightly down, if not it would typically pointing toward the front and flat horizontal, simply rotate the engine 1 full 360 degree turn and it would be aligned then. Check again the TDC mark to be sure. TDC for the other 3 pistons is by rotating 180 degree's (firing order must be observed). With these simple tips you could strip the head bare and easily change the dreaded Cam followers or perform any other repair. I think it's also said in this forum that 5w30 is the right oil for your Zetec (semi Synthetic) mixed with a dodgy mineral oil 10w40 may just turn to sludge. This will be most noticeable when starting when the oil is too think to get beyond the cam followers quickly and a loud tappet sound is heard. But others will try to flog you a high millage oil where journal gaps and big ends are worn very slightly and a greater viscosity is needed. Example are GTX for high mileage. But that is a bodge to make the engine sound sweet while running and like a tank when cold. When the majority of damage is done when starting an engine (Cold winter day and mad man is revving the guts to get the heater matrix warm, or 10 failed start attempts and battery is nearly dead etc...etc. before I bang on about another post you will find people in other countries run 5w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer but its not going to make a difference here. Another common symptom of a lack of power is related to the tension on the cam belt. "fiddle stick I didn't torque up the tension roller" and later complains of power loss, I have seen this before. Take a look at the spark plugs and check there not damaged or if there taken out of the head and replaced while at the wrong tension and the crush washer is now leaking hence lack of compression and power. Lastly as to the lack of power, I would suspect the Oxygen sensor (lambda or HEGO Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor) may have been saturated in oil. This is now dead and giving a false reading. Some people say Quote "yeah overfilling a bit wont harm your engine, err it will burn off". Yeah and right onto the very expensive and temperamental oxygen sensor. From memory I honestly cant remember id the Fiesta had 4 wires Eg: 2 for the heater and 2 for the sensor (earlier cars had one and had to wait 5 minutes for the exhaust to get warm enough to work at all). But after about 1 minute the reading would be taken and then no mater how accurate the timing was it would always be running mega lean. Inevitably leading to knock or piston slap. The output of the sensor would typically be 0.2v lean to 0.8v to rich although this is nearly impossible to check as the fluctuation occurs in milliseconds (lean to rich). This is easily checked on an emissions machine to see the components working, See the PPM of hydrocarbons, and the lambda (sometimes just a symbol like an upside down Y) ask your local MOT station and they may stick it on an hydrocarbon test machine for a small fee (but some may refuse outside of an MOT). If you do need to inspect the Oxygen sensor check to see if its white to grey or black sooty looking colour indicating (lean) to sooty black (rich). But generally the white deposit is related to silicon fouling. The sensor would always try to maintain a 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. I had heard of testing an Oxygen sensor with a volt meter and set to measure 1v but its strongly un-advised. (Even testing on a workbench in a vice and using a blow lamp to test an output). Anyway you may also have some lame garage who had not observed when using any silicon sealant that its Oxygen sensor friendly. Silicon is by far the killer of Oxygen sensors, grease, gasket sealant and some fuel has silicon in it, even a change of anti freeze as the anti corrosion inhibitors which contain silicates is enough to render an sensor dead. You may also want to look elsewhere in the engine bay for pipes loose or off even including the entire vacuum system has a leak, check all are OK.

SNIPQUOTE - no need to quote the whole post you're replying to - as per the pop up message instructions!!

for the endura-e crew on here i had the same problem on my 1.3 escort and after reading this forum i cleaned the icv as instructed above and disconected my battery for an hour and its been running smooth ever since. i had cleaned the icv previously with no change so i'd say its the resetting of the ecu that did the trick. but i now know why they called it the endura engine.......because you have to endura lot of crap from it. happy motoring :o)