December 2006
Hello All,
Can anyone cast any light on a problem I'm having? I have a 1998 Ford Escort 1.3 Encore (1.3 Endura E engine), under low revs in most gears, there is a slight 'rattling' noise comming from the engine bay. The noise ceases after only a few seconds when the revs have gradually increased. I had the clutch changed on the car approximately 2 years ago so I don't suspect that, I'm just lost as to what it could be, as you may gather, I'm not the most mechanical minded when it comes to cars!!
Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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In the three years we have owned our 2000 W MX5 1.8 Icon, it has been a pleasure to drive. Unfortunately, over the past 18 months the car occasionally develops a severe misfire when started from cold. When the car is started, there is a strong smell of petrol, as if the engine has flooded. If we try to drive it, there is no power. The only solution seems to be to switch off, wait five minutes and restart the engine, at which time it runs normally.
There appears to be no pattern to the problem. It occurs during any weather conditions and may happen twice in a week or not happen for several weeks or even months.
Our local garage, with the help of the local Mazda franchise, can offer no solution as it has never happened whilst the car is at the garage. Diagnostic testing has shown no faults. The car is serviced according to the manufacturer's requirements and has covered 58,000 miles.
New plugs, filters and an engine flush have not solved the problem. Any ideas?
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i had a similar problem the emgine management light came on
the AA told me that is a commong problem with mx5 it is due to ignition coils malfuctoning and might need replacing about £75 thare are 2
Aaargh! I've scratched my car against a wall. I want to try to touch it up with some touch up paint but I want to smooth down the rough bits first so that I have a smooth surface to work on. Can anyone suggest what I can use to smooth out the damaged roughened surface without making it worse (either going too deep into the bodywork or scratching the surrounding area as well)?
Any suggestions for using the touch up paint to the best effect will also be welcomed (it has a built in brush that you use to paint the paint on).
Thanks Read more
Thanks very much for your replies.
I'll have a go with Scratch X and see if it makes any difference (I think I know someone who's got some of this stuff) but I think I'll be lucky if it does.
I'll also check out Chips Away and see what they got to say.
Also, thanks for the tips on how to do a DIY job - its good reference to know how to go about it if in the future I get something that I think I can comfortably have a go at.
Cheers
Can anyone direct me to Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation 1986, and it's amendments, on the internet?
I've drawn blanks at dvla, vosa, directgov, hmso. opsi only goes back to 1987!
HJ directories and forum search has also drawn blanks.
Google give lots of documents which refer to the regulations but none that gives the documents themselves.
I need to check the exact wording (rather than "alleged" expert interpretation) regarding requirements to have weight information displayed for non-commercial trailers under 3500kg MAW, specifically caravans.
I'd really appreciate any help. Read more
>>The data on the "Information Sticker" on my caravan has disappeared, ie faded, so the maximum gross weight is no longer visible
Why not contact the manufacturer of the caravan and complain about the quality of the "Information Sticker". I feel sure they would provide you with a new one, probably for free.
As to fixing it, if it is correct information, who should care? If you were ever stopped by the Police or VOSA, they will only inspect the plate. I doubt if they would ever ask who fixed it. I am assuming an agent for caravans is saying otherwise to earn a few pounds.
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Roger
I read frequently, but only post when I have something useful to say.
Coming back from Wales yesterday along the A5, I felt completely justified in my choice of car. My Accord Diesel estate was a joy to drive, loads or power to get past people, even with a full boot and three of us in the car. Lovely.
One thing I wondered though. What is the position with respect to speeding during an overtaking manoeuvre?
The A5 has plenty of opportunities where you can get past people safely with a good line of sight, as long as you put your foot down. Several times, I floored it in 3rd at about 40, changed up at about 70 and pulled back into my lane and onto the brakes having probably hit about 80-85.
Obviously my temporary maximum speed was well above the speed limit. I believe that I was only doing this when safe: the road was straight, the line of sight good, and the straight was long enough to be safely legal again long before running out of room. Maximum speed past means minimum time on the wrong side of the road, and therefore is safer.
Question is, how does this stand legally?
I don?t think you can safely overtake someone doing 40 while not breaking the speed limit, so is this a situation where speeding is allowed, where it is tolerated, or was I just lucky not to be caught?
Regular readers will know I don?t have much sympathy for speeders, so I?m interested in your responses?
Gord. Read more
Hi Terry
Yes, it's good technique you outline & gives you in some ways the effect of an 'extra'
50bhp or 100Nm of torque. One other benefit sometimes too: some overtakee's
like to play the dangerous game of speeding up a bit if they see you in the opposite lane
doing the more conventional manoeuvre - whereas the
above mitigates that extra risk, as you're by them before they can react.
woodbines
btw - I think A. Tom Topper in 'Very Adavanced Driving' gives this the thumbs-up too.
How do they decide the value? Im a little worried ill get a low value and then not be able to replace it with anything remotely comparable.
Is that likely with a major insurer?
The guy who looked at my van said that on the face of it, the damage doesnt look too bad, but the structure underneath is very bent and one side of the back end is pushed in by about 3 inches.
He said that there was alot of labour in the job and that could push it beyond the vans value, hence Im having to ask :-( Read more
Thats roughly where I was expecting, although its a difficult one because there arent many 55 plate ones on sale at all, let alone with low mileage and selling for less than 6k inc Vat, so id have trouble replacing like for like without dipping into my pocket.
Thats why I hope they repair it. Have to see.
Hi, My 1995 Passat 1.9TD has a Sigma SG20E alarm fitted that has never been used/did not work in excess of three years. After accidentally shorting out the electrics, sorting a problem with the starter, this has activated the alarm - Now I can't switch it off! I've tried disconnecting/reconnecting battery; and have removed the control unit, but engine then immobilised, so had to replace it!
Can I disconnect power and/or inactivate alarm, whilst leaving vehicle operative ? I can't even find where the alarm takes it's power from, it's not from the fusebox!
Fob appears to work (LED flashes) but has no effect. Alarm does go silent once doors closed and locked. Ignition lights go haywire when alarm operating? There is a key re-set on the siren under the bonnet, but alas no key, Can the four wires behind this switch be shorted to solve the problem ?(without causing further damage!)
Any advice greatfully received ?
Many Thanks Read more
Many thanks to you both for your replies. A piggy back connector linking the two purple wires worked a treat - Much appreciated. Please see new thread re: suspected poor earth ?
Hi guys - The wife's 10 year old Skoda was damaged some weeks ago when parked outside our house. We reported the incident to our insurers who arranged a nearby repair centre to assess the damage but we decided not to get any repair done until the other party's insurers admitted liability and we were sure she wouldn't lose her excess or NCD. They have now done this but I have been told by a friend that the car is likely to be a write off even though it has just passed its MOT and is fine to drive aside from the damage to the rear bumper and inside of the boot area. The car isn't worth very much so what are our options if it is declared a write off but we wish to keep it?
Cheers!
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The FAQ answers the question very directly with, "If the other party is judged to be wholly and neligently responsible for the damage then you are entitled to be put back where you were immediately before they did you the damage."
But what if the replacement value of the car is less than the cost of repair. That surely is the concern here. I would expect the 3rd party's insurer to then say that the claimant cannot expect to have the same car restored to its original condition if it can be replaced by an equivalent alternative at a lesser cost. I.e. another Skoda of the same type, condition and year. So the worry always is, what if I have an average-looking but carefully maintained reliable family car which costs say £1500 to repair, when the average-looking example is worth only £1200, is poorly maintained, and as an unknown vehicle I risk being presented with large repair bills by it (which is usually why such cars come back onto the market!). Can one then insist upon having the original cherished and well-known car repaired? Sadly, I would guess not. Although these things are always worth arguing with the insurer about. Moral of story: don't cherish your cars, treat 'em mean and dump 'em back on the market if they complain.
just blown the coolant hose; cylinder head > throttle valve > heater exchange. replacement £50.00 - i didn't realise rubber was such a precious commodity??
at the heater exchange end a 'T' piece connects 3 x hoses. the hoses are 19mm diameter. the 'T' piece is 19mm but reduces to 5mm at the end.
has anyone any idea why? is it to protect the heater matrix or is it something to do with the throttle valve hose.
the 'T' piece disintergrated when I tried to disconnect the hose. The dealer wants £60 for a replacement as opposed to 50p for a 'T' piece from the local aquarium (fish) shop.
any advise appreciated.
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thank you. will have a look at those fittings. not sure if the reducer is there to protect the matrix or ease the flow into a smaller bore hose going to the throttle body.
can't believe that i have to buy another complete assembley at £60. i know what is going to happen when i try to disconnect the hose - that connector is going to crumble too.
>>The motor car only contributes 20% of UK co2 emissions
That seems like a lot. I'd always been under the vague impresson that private cars were seen as a soft target, but if that 20% s true then surely that would make them quite a valid target ? Read more
We are paying for those !!! DOH !
'cos we really need them don't we !
How about spending 25 billion on the rail and public transport network ?....or would that be spending money badly ?
Browse
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It could be the timing chain rattling when the engine is ticking over at idle, when you raise the revs a bit the noise will change. These old 1.3 engines go that way eventually.