October 2006
over the past two weeks my laguna 1.9dci (2002) has become more and more difficult to start when hot. The hotter the engine the more it turns over before firing, to a point that yesterday it wouldln't start after i stopped. after twenty minutes it went again. i hadn't noticed any problems while driving along, apart from one accasion at the weekend, when driving along the engine suddenly cut out, i pulled over and it started straight away. i am taking it to my mechanic on thursday but any ideas what it could be would be welcomed. Also i am getting the rear bushions replaces, is this a big job? Read more
Over 20 years or so I have been a regular visitor to the IOW and the car market there puzzles me -anyone else?
First, they still pay a premium for an "island" car. Years ago that meant it would probably be low mileage for its year , but as I understand it these days that wouldn't be such an advantage. And in fact the proximity to the sea- so salty environment- and lack of motorway or even dual carriageway, meaning many cars are never fully exerted- would make such a car, or balance, less attractive than a well-maintained "mainland " car . Nevertheless my impression is that dealers there are looking for 10-15% more than on the mainland.
In fact I have thought that buying a couple of cars at a time at auction or on EBay , then selling on the island, could be a nice little business.
Also in Ventor there is the most successful Kia garage I have ever seen - there are an incredible number of Kias in South Wight, and the used cars on the dealers forecourt are at very high prices- even though that area is not well-off economically. Read more
"HJ reckons 10 miles to warm a car's engine etc. all the way through."
I'm sure he's right. I do know that the temp gauge isn't the whole story, and my original comment was slightly TIC. I suspect that the deposits from the initial few minutes of rich running need at least as long again to be dispersed. Also, if the exhaust system doesn't heat all the way through, the condensation will rot it from the inside that much sooner. So, long journeys good, short journeys bad. Isle of Wight cars also get through suspension components sooner than most...
Hope anyone out there can help with a problem on my MK 4 VW Golf TDI 130. Have noticed both brake light bulbs blown & the high level light is lit slightly at either end. I have not yet replaced the blown bulbs cause just seen this evening. When the brake is applied the high level light works correctly, all bulbs lit. I don't think the problem is the pedal switch because the centre light comes on and off cleanly every press. Another problem which has arisen this evening is the engine management light is flashing instructing me to take it to the garage. Is this likely to be connected? Or is this a coincidence? I think a diagnostic check from a good Auto Electrician would be the best starting point. Please help with advice if you can. THANKS !
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The switch will be faulty and blowing the bulbs, very common and a good earner for VW . Fit a new switch and 2 new bulbs and the dash light will go out
There's 2 different switches purple or black, make sure you get the correct one.
4 Torx screws hold the under dash panel, unplug the wiring from the switch and twist the switch from the pedal assembly. ;-)
occasionally, according to dashboard computer, driver's door is "open" tho' it is clearly tightly shut, so interior lights stay on til I firmly shut it, usually 2-3 times needed.
Any hints on what to look for appreciated, pse - no obvious sign of a sensor.
T'iz 03 5 door, BTW.
Gracias
EH Read more
Many thanks Alec - yes, Audi {Now added to subject header - DD}
My Golf 1.6 has packed up and the dealer diagnoses a new EGR valve and emap sensor. The car's done 48K and is 3 years 3 months old. They want £380 to put it right, and the parts are on back order so it will be at least a week before I get it back.
Is it worth a goodwill claim? It's VW dealer serviced from new and only 3 months out of warranty.
If the parts are on back order, is this a common problem VW are aware of?
It packed up only 5 miles after they plugged a piece of kit in to check exactly what service it needed next - could there be a connection or just coincidence? Read more
Its early yet I think I meant "Gesture"
Seeing the post about the Reliant Robin (did you know that Reliant was started up by the chap who led Raleigh Cycles dabble into motoring) does anyone know anything about the car that my wife lusts after, The Carver ?.
We saw it on Top Gear and also saw one at The Dunsfold Wings And Wheels but have never seen one on the roads. Read more
But has anyone seen one on the road ?.
Check this out!
tinyurl.com/yhwqos
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e Prof Read more
If silicone has leaked into her chest, she may be in for many years of pain. I gather this material, if not immediately and vigorously removed, can migrate around the body causing problems for years. I think this is one of the reasons for going to saline as the filler liquid.
I'm assisting an elderly relative with a motor claim. Their N reg Vaxxhall Corsa Auto has been deemed beyond economical repair and the insurers have written asking for the V5, MOT, Insurance Certificate and keys. They say their engineer has not valued the vehicle yet (even though they say it is not worth repairing!) but they want to take it to free and safe storage. The car has dents to the passenger door, a broken wing mirror, gouged bumper mouldings and a broken rear light cluster but it is driveable. I guess the parts and labour charges would soon add up to the £1000 or so it is worth (according to Parkers price guide - presumably undamaged).
However this is where I need help, I've never dealt with a claim/write-off before. If the car was worth £1000 before the damage, what can I expect the insurer to offer my relative? What is fair in this situation? Is it open to haggling?
Presumably, if the insurer had repaired the car then it would be worth almost £1000 again so is this what my relative should get?
Any help would be great as I feel responsible but a bit clueless as to the best approach to take.
many thanks Read more
I'd just like to say thanks to everyone for replying especially 'No FM2R', Daveyjp and Dalglish. Your advice was much appreciated and useful giving me bargaining information which looks like it will result in an offer of £900 ish which my relative will really be able to put to good use.
Muchas gracias
I'm about to get one of these for the next five years as my works van.
Has anyone got one or driven one? The new model has been out for a few months, I've been on the WhatVan site and read the write up, but I can't find any actual user reviews. Read more
Had this new Sprinter for eight weeks now, and I'm thoroughly brassed off with it. It is very sluggish some of the time, but the rest of the time it's OK. The Mercedes dealer say there's no fault. There is quite obviously a major fault, but as I am the driver and not the owner (local authority) I'm having trouble getting my point across.
I had an episode where there was a sudden, strong burning smell which coincided with the exhaust sounding like a tank, this too was investigated and surprise surprise, no fault found. I'm no mechanic but I get the feeling that the exhaust / Cat is faulty and may be being blocked intermittently.
The van is back at the Mercedes dealer tonight, 900 miles on the clock, with a horrendous knocking/rattling from underneath the front when travelling on anything but a perfect road surface.
The soaking wet drivers seatbelt was finally cured at the second attempt by the dealer applying silicone over one of the seals on the B pillar which hadn't been finished properly at manufacture. This is an exterior seal and the repair looks a mess.
All in all, so far, it's a poor effort from Mercedes. I had expected better, much better.
My wife has had a Eunos/MX5 for several years now, utterly reliable and lots of fun especially in the summer. it has been used for local runs, backwards and forwards to work/shops etc. However my wife has developed a disc problem and my mother-in-law is increasingly in need of support. There has been a significant increase in journies to her home - 60 miles away. Either we or my wife are doing the trip around three times a week or more now. With the winter approaching as well we are seriously considering getting my wife something more comfortable for the longer runs she is doing now, and which my increasingly infirm MiL can get in and out of easily, and perhaps take a walking frame etc. Until recently she was in and out of the Eunos like a spring chicken - not bad for an 89 year old! - but much more difficult now. I am thinking the solution is a reasonable newish (by my standards) 2/3/4 year old Toyota Yaris automatic. Preferably 1.3 to give a bit more grunt, and 3 door to give best possible access to the passenger seat. Air con and a CD player would be nice as well whilst we are at it, and of course the benefit of toyota reliability and quality. I am pretty much decided on the Yaris, but would welcome a sense check and any feedback from anybody who has one. I was slightly put off by a road test, Parkers I think, that mentioned poor ride quality - one of the reasons for getting one!
Thanks MGs Read more
My parents bought a 18 month old yaris last december. Its the 1.0l (4 cyl i think) 'blue' edition. Its a 5 door and they have had nothing but praise for it. They say its realy easy to get in and out of due to the high seats. I've driven it and for a 1.0l its really nice to drive about town. I've also driven it on the motorway, and its a little noisy at motorway speeds, and feels a bit light, but then I suppose its not meant for regular m'way speeds. On normal roads its very quite and easy to drive.
One thing my dad had a (minor) moan about was that its difficult for him to wash the roof properly as he is realtivly short and cant reach the middle of the roof. Apart from that its all been good.
For 5k you'll get a decent low mileage quite new car.
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had a similar problem with my 03 kangoo it wouldn,t start first time when the engine was warm but was otherwise fine. after having the camshaft sensor and the glowplugs changed with no effect, it turned out to be a incorrectly set diesel pump. cost 300 quid been fine since.