September 2006
I offer the following link without comment:
www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/news/features/story.jsp...2
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Hi guys
Just wander if anyone can help. My golf seems to be losing coolant water ? and it cant be traced to were it is leaking
Can be driving along and suddenly onboard computer warning light comes up as Stop check coolant - garage have done pressure test on the car and no leaks are showing.
Strong smell of coolant coming through the air system on both low and high temperatures
Any ideas ?
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You say the system has been pressure tested- that would indicate a leaking radiator, heater matrix or hose/joint. How much coolant is it losing? Does there seem to be a lot of pressure in the system when you take the expansion tank cap off? If so, this could indicate a failing head gasket. Also check the operation of the thermostat to see if it's opening and closing as it should.
Martin
My Peugeot 306 has a small leak in the front exhaust pipe close to the lambda sensor, can this be sealed using putty and will this be adequate for the mot test ?
Alan. Read more
www.motuk.co.uk/manual_710.htm
"A durable repair to an exhaust system which effectively prevents leaks is acceptable providing the system is structurally sound."
"A minor exhaust leak from, for example, a connection joint or a pin hole, is not a Reason for Rejection."
After viewing several threads regarding a security flaw with the MkIV golf I've decided to investigate retro fitting a remote locking system so I can 'de-lock' my car. I've seen several kits(by reputable manufacturers) for good money on ebay and wondered if anyone has tried one of these kits or retro fitted remote locking to an existing central locking system. Is this something a competant DIYer can tackle or is it best left to a pro? BTW - the car is a Yr 2000 MkIv Golf Read more
Dox, that's very useful info mate. I only live about 3 miles from C+R but had never heard of them. Think I'll be having a ride down there soon, hopefully they'll do cambelts at a good price too :)
BTW- I have a key locking CL at present
I can't open the drivers door on my 1999 vectra. The solenoid is operating, but both outer and inner door handles will not release the door catch. I've tried with the key as well.
Any ideas what's wrong and how do I get the door open so I can see what the problem is?
Is it possible to remove the door trim with the door closed without wrecking it?
Any help appreciated.
p.s. The tips on fault codes are great!
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Hi,
Does anyone know if you can buy aftermarket heating element pads for door mirrors. I own a 23 year old Rover SD1 Vitesse which is in pretty good nick. The heating elements on the backs of the door mirrors have succumbed to corrosion after all this time, but with winter approaching, fog free mirrors are a godsend.
Any pointers to suppliers (if they exist) greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris Read more
Slightly of subject but if V8vitesse is interested there is a late model SDi sat on a piece of spare land in Otley West Yorks its been there for a couple of years to my knowledge it did have a for sale sign on it but this has disappeared.
A friend's Yaris has apparently been vandalised, looks like a couple of kicks have been aimed at the rear panel and light unit, Dent Wizard or similar may be able to sort out the panel otherwise it is a body shop job. The rear light is broken so needs fixing asap to keep the car on the road however they have not had the best experience with the local dealer (engine management light probs) and from experience expect the part cost to be rather high.
I have offered to fit a new light unit however are there any specialists (like GSF) who deal in Toyota parts and may be cheaper than a Toyota dealer parts dept?
The car is approx 2001 3dr Yaris.
Thanks. Read more
I have left it with my friend, I will ask and get back to you.
Thanks.
I've often wondered how badly the safety of cars is compromised by age. Amongst other cars, I run a 1996 Megane which had a 4-star NCAP rating when it was new. I do appreciate that NCAP is about inbuilt design as well as structural integrity, but there must be a point where key parts of the structure are no longer as sound as they were. I would hope that the Megane isn't too affected by tin worm as IIRC it's partly galvanised, but being a relatively small and light car it does depend on it's structural integrity more than my heavyweights (Saab 9-5 and 9000).
Anyone have any thoughts?
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As madf says the same is true of many early 1990s
cars. Thing is they often loook quite presentable.
And the reverse is often true as well.
Both my old Cavalier and my current Sunny look pretty tatty on the outside, rusty wheelarches etc.
However look underneath and they're as solid as they had been 5 years ago.
On the other hand, an old guy down the road had a 15-year-old Daihatsu Charade. Not a mark on the bodywork, where the old boy had waxed the car meticulously every Saturday. Underneath, festering. You could see the rot peeling away if you looked carefully enough.
It's very easy really.....
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/lincolnshire/5379930.s...m
I'm sure the vendor (a trader) doesn't mind, especially after all this free publicity. Read more
And I thought my 3 year old was clever. Would love to see how he did that.
Really dull topic, and I apologise....
My old Fabia vRS was supposed to do 55.4mpg overall, but I rarely managed more than 48.
My new A3 is supposed to do 46.9 or thereabouts and does almost exactly that (except when I get excited and zoom off down back lanes wagging my DSG paddles).
There you go! Exciting hey? Read more
Good point. It does seem a very efficient gearbox. It drives like me in sport mode, and you can still cane it in 'D' mode.
However, for all my liking my new toy, I have to say that having hired a 911 recently (mentioned in another post so I won't bore you with the details) I am spoilt now. You can't beat a 6 speed manual gearchange, a bendy road and a proper sports car. Yes, I know the engine's in the wrong place. Yes, I know it's a yuppie cliché. Yes I know it's 145 years old. How much do I want one?!! Oh, and it didn't even use much fuel.
I think that in terms of "continuation" of a model the engine is the least important item. After all the A series engine went into dozens of different vehicles which had nothing else in common.
Take a pre war beetle and a last of production one and they are recognisably the same car. Not so for the Corolla, Escort etc.