April 2006
Hi everyone,
I'd appreciate any comments people have on the following.
My Mazda 323 (2003 1.6 GSi petrol manual) has reached 3yrs old with 36000 miles on the clock. It has this morning failed its first MOT, done at an independent garage, because the front brake discs are "shot to pieces". I'm happy that the MOT people are telling the truth and I'm getting them replaced. Fair enough.
However, the car had its 36000 Mazda dealer service just 2-3 weeks ago.
So two questions arise:
1) Surely the Mazda dealer should have warned me about this and not passed the car for its service? Why am I paying £250 for a service that doesn't do anything?
2) Is 36000 miles in 3yrs a fair lifetime for front discs? (The car is under its 3yr warranty until the end of this month, although the brake repairs are being done by an independent garage which may spoil things for me.)
The twist in the tale is that I can't go back to the Mazda dealer, because they closed four days after I had the service done. So any complaint I have can now only be with Mazda themselves.
Any comments appreciated. I'm not out for every penny I can get, but I feel I've wasted money on main dealer servicing!
Thanks,
Sam Read more
My sisters pug 206 petrol automatic intermittently cuts out - usually at low speeds eg at roundabouts. It usually re starts ok but sometimes is difficult. It has been checked twice by the main dealers and no fault codes found. Is this a common problem on these cars and is there anybody in the bournemouth area who may be able to look into it a little deeper and sort it out for her please? Read more
My friends car, a vw polo petrol (circa 1996) keeps on stalling when the clutch is pressed in, for e.g. at traffic lights.
There was a hose near the fuel regulator which was loose, we pushed it back into its hole and the stalling stopped for a while. But its now back.
Sorry i don?t know the engine size, but i think its around 1.4 or 1.6
Can anyone give any ideas please where to start looking?
Read more
Thanks for the info
Just let you know, we cleaned out the throttle valve and surrounding area with some wd40 where there was some oil, apparently the idle is now higher and it?s not stalled since!
Hi, I have recently discovered a problem with my 406: the in-car heater wasn't working so I checked the coolant levels and found it is loosing coolant. Its only losing it slowly, so I ran the engine to see if I could see any leaks.
Basically, the leak is coming from the top of the engine somewhere. On the top of the engine behind the oil filler cap there is a plastic cover which houses the spark plugs (I'm no mechanic so please bear with me!) so I removed the plastic cover and there are the 4 spark plugs and the water is leaking from somewhere round this area. The water is sitting around the spark plugs and then draining away via the right hand side. I dried it all off and replaced the cover then ran the engine again. I then removed it again, and there was more water there, but no real indication of where it come from.
Is this a head gasket problem maybe? I've had head gaskets go in the past and the oil usually has a white tinge to it, but its jet black in this instance. I also had the car serviced in December. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Read more
Here`s the scenario.....
Within 30 sec of start the Engine Oil Pressure Light illuminates and remains on.
30 Secs later the Engine Management Light (Orange) illuminates and remains on.
The Rev Counter ceases to work and the power falls away rapidly as if the Turbo has shut down.
The tickover raises to a rough 1500 and the engine becomes VERY reluctant to start whilst warm.
As soon as it cools down it starts first time......
I invite informed comment or even scaremongering as Im ready to flip myself !!!! Read more
There's a small bore pipe that goes to the ecu that is known to chaffe through on these, its used to read boost pressure. May be the fault you have and wont cost you anything to check it anyway. Good luck
Audi A6 1.8T SE 39K spotless ( Father-In-Laws recently deceased ) I was driving the car in busy part of the city and slowing down gradually on a slight gradiant when the pedal faded away to the floor. Tried again with the same response. Fluid check light came on and Beeped. Got out of town and drove into National Tyres. Up on the ramp it was quite clear that the rear N/S caliper Banjo ( flat type ) was leaking fluid big time, check banjo bolt AOK. Dismantled banjo inspected and cleaned all surfaces and rebuilt. Filled and bled system all OK. The car had been serviced by Audi 6 weeks before and had a fluid change. Whilst under the car I also noticed a drip of Coolant from the floor tray and traced this to the bottom of the front timing cover. The Cam belt and water pump had been changed 4 weeks ago due to the cars age 1998. So much for Audi Main dealer servicing then. Audi are collecting the car and fixing the problems free of course. Read more
The Banjo for a period had a raised annular ring concentric to the hole. This formed the seal but as discussed failed in time. I have repaired several of these recently. VW and some Audi stockists supply the copper washer but if you carefully clean all services with 1200 wet and dry until there is a clear clean contact area and use sump copper sealing washers from ECP part no 333 11 0051 from memory 12.5mm ID and 16mm, 17mm tops OD and clean them up you will achieve a seal at 20/25Nm and then torque to 40Nm as per the spec. Over sized washers do not deform sufficiently to ensure a safe seal. coat exposed surfaced with sealer or waxoyle and the job is done. Audi should face up to this mistake. Regards Peter
As per title,
Whats the best make of standard non performance replacement exhaust for a cat back system?
The car in question is a 1.6 16v Clio X reg
I have looked at Timax Bosal etc
Seems to be quite a difference in price, (not fitted, on a mail order basis)
Read more
On wife's Clio 1.6 8v the original exhaust was one piece
If it's possible to fit a complete exhaust in one piece on the production line (and it usually is) then this is what the car manufacturer will do.
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L\'escargot.
My insurers refused to cover a Citroen C3 courtesy car while my car is being serviced because the courtesy car is expensive!!
They won't cover a courtesy car that is more valuable then your own car! Well then, my just over 3 year old C5 is then worthless and I can't be trusted with a nearly new supermini!.
Thats one more question to ask at renewal time!
Ben Read more
Liverpool Victoria/Frizzell specifically insure you for a courtesy car, loaned to you while your car is in for service, and their insurance is good value overall as well!
i am interested in buying a rover coupe and i would rather get one that has the HONDA engine fitted to it. is it only the basic 1.6 that has this fitted as the people i ring about there cars for sale tend to not have a clue.
also does anyone have experience of these cars - good or bad Read more
IIRC the honda unit was fitted up to 1996 in 1.6 form and then the K series was fitted. the best way to tell is from the interior - if its facelifted with the rounder dash then the 1.6 is a K and if not then the honda engine.
Also, if the gearbox is on the lefthand side of the engine (looking into the bonnet) that also denotes the honda engine.
The 2 litre is a Rover T series(both in Turbo and NA tune) but doesnt suffer HGF (which I assume is the reason for wanting Honda power!) Its a pretty much bullet proof old school engine capable of mega miles if looked after.
I have to replace the Clock on a Rover 45 as the light has failed, can someone advise me how to remove the centre console to gain access. Read more
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your brake pads must of had less than 1.5mm of pad left two weeks ago otherwise it would of been ok.