March 2006
You can now book services on line...
www.renaultuk.co.uk/SBOLHome.aspx Read more
www.syukcars.co.uk
To quote "Unlike many rival 4x4s, the Rexton and the Kyron are built around a substantial ladder chassis. This means they both have a remarkably stiff body shell, vibration and road noise are reduced, and towing capacity and crash resistance are far better than monocoque rivals. So along with outstanding off-road performance, on the road, the ride is as smooth as the styling."
I thought all the mainstream manufacturers were going monocoque because..."This means they both have a remarkably stiff body shell, vibration and road noise are reduced, and towing capacity and crash resistance are far better than LADDER FRAME rivals."
What do you think?
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Espada III - well if you have a family and need a Lamborghini, what else do you drive? Read more
Which just shows that there are lies, damned lies and marketing data!
Ladder frame is knife-and-fork engineering; it carries a weight penalty, but makes changing body options easy. Can probably stand more abuse, too, so I'd probably choose one for proper off-road use.
I'm not convinced that monocoque construction aids towing capacity, except in the sense that it may reduce the weight of the tow vehicle. In practice, that means reducing the allowable weight of the trailer!
Mind you, IIRC, HJ was pretty underwhelmed by the Rexton...
plugged it in --says waiting for a gps signal
how long to charge up Read more
was being sarcastic to first reply(car boot sale)
I would have said it was being misleading.
J18 M4 this morning, traffic was very bunched up west bound around here this morning. The cause ? A Highways Agency patrol doing 50MPH in the slow lane (I checked my speedo as I passed). No reason for it, OK it was a little wet and visibility was not great but that was way too slow. These things look like police patrol vehicles from the rear until you get to within 30 metres or so and you can read the lettering on the back door. As a result it was very bunched up in that area, and in the type of conditions where one would like to leave a bit more room between yourselve and the car in front. Read more
The link below gives you current and future roles, as you will see 'Enforcement of road traffic offences' is left to the Police, now and in the future.
www.highways.gov.uk/knowledge/5580.htm
I do believe that the vehicles are equipped with cameras though, whether this could ever be used in evidence, I'm uncertain.
Around my neck of the woods (M5, M6, M42), the vehicles are:
Land Rover 3
Range Rover
Shogun
Landcruiser
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Drive Your Way - If anything can, TerraCan
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Hi - Loss of power through all the gears. Will accelerate but I have to be VERY gentle on the pedal, too much and it just gradually gets slower. Dropping down gears does not help. Even if I take it out of gear and press pedal still not as much revs/power as usual. Thanks Read more
I'd confirm the advice of cdl123. I had the same issue on my Passat 1.8t (petrol turbo). It ran like a dream when I disconnected the MAF (except that it wouldn't idle). My MAF is located on top of the air filter housing. If you're not sure where yours is, I'd suggest a look at the forums in tech.bentleypublishers.com or forums.vwvortex.com
I have a pug 406 with 84k miles with a FSH, over the last few days, i have noticed the engine speed increasing with the without the speed, especially when the car is warm. This happens more so when driven hard. I suspect a worn clutch? i have a rang a few places and shocked with the difference in price from £160 supplied and fitted new to almost £300. What now?
help would be appreciated, thanks Read more
Check & see if your local Peugeot main dealer has an Express fit department, You may get a shock how cheap they could do this job.
Tempted by the Citroen c4 3dr coupe. It looks stunning inside and out compared with the competition, but after having a couple of AX GTS in the past I'm not sure about the build quality.They were quick but just fell apart! A main dealer has offered basic 1.4 for under £9k and a 1.6 with a/c, alloys etc. for £10k.This seems a bargain as they are less than his used ones! They appear to be a rare car.Anyone got one?
Read more
There is a Citoen private garage in Bradford regonised by Citroen
as acceptable and is excellent in both price and service.
Who?
Hi folks,
(I've had a search, can't seem to find this covered before, but please correct me if I'm wrong.)
I need to replace a split nearside, outer CV boot on my 1990 Golf II (1.6). I have the replacement boot kit (normal sort, from GSF, not a split or stretch one or anything).
I have acquired a 3/4" drive bar and 30mm socket for the hub nut. I have balljoint splitters (the clamp sort).
Never done this before on any car. The Haynes manual doesn't cover the job exactly, but it seems to suggest I need to remove the 32mm hub nut, unbolt the gearbox side, and remove the driveshaft. I haven't got in there yet to have a look, but do I really need to do this? Or is there an easier way? For example dislocating the ball joint, pivoting the hub outwards, and sliding the outer CV joing off the shaft like that? Or leaving the outer one connected, removing it from the gearbox end only, and slide the boot along the shaft?
I can't immediately understand why removing the hub nut (which promises to be the challenge in all this!) is going to enable the outer CV joint to come off the driveshaft any better...
I don't mind buying a few reusable specialist tools if it'll save some time. What's the best way of doing this? I'll be using axle stands so access under vehicle is not going to be great. A quick description of the job would be very useful.
Lastly... if I have to remove the gearbox end of the shaft, will I lose the gearbox oil? And where can I get that splined key (without buying the whole £25 set from Machine Mart - I already have a sex of Hex and Torx bits)? (What size is it?)
Thanks in advance!
-Mark Read more
I did the job on same car last weekend for daughter.
Haynes BOL just about gets it right, but it is not possible to remove the drive shaft ( at least on her 1.6) without moving the hub carrier outwards. I achieved that by removing the Mc strut to hub carrier bolts (as these are easier to get at) to allow sufficent clearance.
I think from memory it is a 8mm splined bit for inner bolts. Any good motor factor will know what it is. Clearance to undo these is tight, a 3/8 socket set is useful.
You will probably need a 4ft length of scaffold to inially break the hub nut (200 ft lbs!) and do this before jacking up the car! A helper on the brake pedal is useful.
I use a pit with the car supported under the front passenger side using large wooden blocks. Using axle stands is possible but make sure it is well supported and cannot fall whilst working.
Look carefully at the pictures and when you start the job it all becomes very obvious. Best of luck and just ask when stuck!
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pmh (was peter)
Had a letter today from the company I used to use for car insurance, but moved away from last year due to price.
They had all my details, car, excess, NCD, etc all correct, and a price of £260 was given. As my renewal is £400, this seemed attractive.
Imagine my dismay then, when I called them and was quoted £704!!
Several levels of escalation later, they still couldn't explain the difference and now an investigation is going on and 'someone will get back to me tomorrow'.
OK, I know these things are a 'come-on', but they had all my details and I really don't expect to be outright conned by a company which I would say trades on its good reputation. Read more
As well as the come on there is the misleading quote - typically a "older driver" might have an excess of £100- £250.
Last month before renewal I tried a few websites and a few phone calls - one site quoted £170 Fully Comp - only for me to find the excess was £1000 for accident claims.
As the average motor claim is under £1000 their fully comp looks abit like 3rd Party F&T with a bit extra rather than a comparable fully comp policy.
Hi All,
I was wondering if anyone could give me advice on MOTs. I was under the impression that re-testing is free if you take the car back to the testing centre on the same day, having got the problem/s rectified. I've just been told by Nationwide Autocentre that there isn't a free retest anymore. Is this the case?
Also, not being mechanically minded, is there anything to look out and rectify before my car (1999 Mazda 323) goes in for its MOT?
Thanks very much
Pootle Read more
you say about let the computor time out my brother works in a garage over the road they do mots bloke swiped the card for mot to be done then it was lunchtime so he sat down and wathed telly and the ministrey of transport come in and said he had swiped the mot so should be finished not have a lunch break in between.mot he was wating out side on his lap top and could tell when to come in and strike the mot person you never know whos watching you now a days
Browse
Never had a problem myself :-)
Our Renaults have not been the main car, so are perhaps used a little more lightly than some, but touch wood no problems yet...
Peter