March 2006
I am having a quick look for a friend at a prospective buy. How do you release the bonnet catch!!!!
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pmh (was peter)
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have a clio which after a very minor bump (side) is stuck in reverse, any idea what the problem may be? damage to car was very very light only just tapped side. Read more
have you tried driving backwards to make sure that the twisted torque of the driveshaft/s isn"t holding it in gear?from the bump and sudden stop?
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\"a little man in a big world/\"
Hi everyone,
This is my first question here. I'm quite practical but know nothing about cars, so bear with me...
I have 1998 VW Polo 1.0 with the AER engine and the Bosch-Motronic 9.0 engine management system (according to the Haynes manual, anyway). It's only done about 50K miles and is professionally serviced annually.
Whenever the car is started for the first time on a cold morning (under 5 degrees C or so), it starts first time and idles nicely at about 1000 rpm. But when I've pulled away, it loses power after a few seconds and the engine stalls. It won't restart straight away (just turns over nice and fast but never bursts into life), I have to leave it a couple of minutes before trying. After that, it's 100% fine for the rest of the day.
I was adviced to change the coolant temp sensor, which I did (genuine VW part of course, with blue ring) but that made no difference :-(
I also cleaned the distibutor cap contacts and rotor arm as they were filthy and pitted, but although the engine now ticks over more "evenly", it hasn't solved the stalling problem at all.
Any ideas out there? It's getting really annoying (I end up blocking the road nearly every morning now!).
Cheers,
Nick.
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Nick
The filter will be fine; the small amount left in there won't affect anything. Always use a new washer; changing a dripping one AFTER you've filled the sump is a bit messy! PTFE tape - no way.
My comments on the quality of GTX would doubtless upset our hosts; so I'll just paraphrase an very old Duckhams ad:
"If you want to know why you don't use GTX - just ask a man who knows about engines!"
I know diesels are notoriously slow to warm up, and I've noted several posts where members state that on a 6 mile run the cabin was barely getting warm. Does this also apply to diesels with climate control fitted? Read more
When I say "hit middle" I mean reach just below the middle. Sorry, not being clear. This is the optimum position the temp always reaches (and is confirmed by reading the manual). 7/16ths is about right, maybe more like 11/24ths!
I don't know if mine has an aux. heater. I do think that the issue is related to the type of journey. My commute is always stop/start for the first 15 minutes, never getting out of 2nd during this time. On other runs, straight onto a main road, the thing heats up quite normally.
I remember reading a thread on this same issue from another TDCi driver a couple of years back.
Splodgeface
I read in today's Sunday Times that a database, to be set up after the Dunblane shooting has still not been brought into use, 10 years after the event that caused its creation. All that is needed, apparently, is to have a central database of all people who have ever applied for and been granted or refused a firearms certificate. On the basis that this relatively simple project is 10 years late, what chance do BR members see for the
successful running of a database to charge every road user for their mileage, bearing in mind that it a Government scheme and will involve the use of computers? Read more
Anything is feasible, 'do nothing' is an option at least for now in my opinion. There will be losers regardless of what happens.
But as one of the earlier messages pointed out, the government wants you to believe that a national road pricing scheme is inevitable.
That is rich coming from an executive (not helped by our toothless legislature) who simply won't do enough joined up thinking. Have they ever stopped their focus group love-ins to consider why so many 8 mile trips to work in the local town have become 50 mile, 2-hour commutes? Or why school runs are the majority kids transport? And so on....
Until those unelected special adviser wonks in their respective policy bunkers of housing, employment, globalisation, environment and local government actually start talking to each other, and preferably even connecting with us via Parliament along the way, any honest, objective debate by sensible people like us will fail.
It's got to start from the top, but you'll have to wait ages for that to happen as he's far too busy with Iraqis, Iranians, Imams and now dodgy Italians at the moment.
My 2002 323 turbo diesel has done 53k miles and is due a service at the end of the month. Lately, however the engine is slow to start from cold, whereas up till about a month ago it always started on the second turn of the key from very cold and instantly when warmed up. It always starts but only after holding the ignition switch on for up to 5 seconds. Even whe the engine iis fully warmed up it takes two turns to fire up. Anyone know what the problem could be? I'm worried that the glow plugs need replaced and these cost c£45 each! My hope is that it's just the battery that needs renewed.
Cheers
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I wanted to eliminate the chances of a blocked air conditioning unit due to a mould/bacteria build up.
I bought an aerosol of Forte Air Con Treatment.
Is this the right stuff?
Where do a spray it.
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My Dad used one where you just left the aerosol in the footwell spraying (locked on) and left the blower on recirc. It made a right mess of the windows. Be aware of this.
Hi all
Just bought my first Passat, an S Estate TDi 130 '05 reg and picking it up on this week from the VW dealer.
Read on the Forum about the recall (ref R/2004/211) concerning the possible breaking of diesel pump-cover bolts and subsequent fuel leak.
How can I tell, besides asking the dealer, if this car has had the recall? Will it be marked in the service book? Anything else I should be looking for before handing over the balance? All seems to be OK to my eyes, but you never can be 100% sure!
Thanks all Read more
The re call if its needed would be recorded on the computer system by VW.
You could always ask them nicely for written proof that the re call if its needed has been done to the car.
What price range should I be looking at for Continental Premium Contact Tyres with a spec of 205/55 R16 with a 91H rating?
Thanks in advance! Read more
you should be looking to pay around £69.99 fully fitted, including
vat valve balance and casing disposal. I have just checked the
other sites mentioned at 1.15 am 6/3/06. Blackcircles want £72.92 delivery
only or a whacking £96.80 fitted. mytyres are quting £67.10 delivery
That astonishingly good value !
The cheapest internet dealI have been able to find is £78 fully fitted with everything.
I ordered an X-type estate in December and specified a March 1st delivery which is the date on the contract.
On the 4th Feb I was advised by my dealer that the delivery date would now be 24th March - " a week or so longer than anticipated due to a low order call and high demand".
This has seriously inconvenienced me and I have had to agree to reduce the selling price of my present car by £50 per week in order to keep the sale and have the use of a car in the meantime.
Last night I was having a drink with a friend who used to be in the car trade and he is firmly of the opinion that my original car has gone to another buyer and the dealer is being somewhat economical with the actuality so to speak.
Before talking to the dealer again I would appreciate any thoughts/opinions on the matter. Read more
Because it has been damaged in transit from the factory to the dealer, I should think!
Watch for rust in seams under spare wheel plus rear side mebers.. some do go I believe.. Also fornt wishbone baaljoints wear.. test by rocking.. (about £50parts +labour).
Radiators corrode at bottom: watch for leaks.
Top hoses can go - especially complex one about £40ish.
Possible starting problems: inductance coil round ignition switch (thread on HJ covers it.. £17 part).
Driveshaft gaiters split. Front disks corrode and score..
madf