Replacing CV boot (VW Golf II)

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Tue 7 Mar 2006 15:22
Replacing CV boot (VW Golf II) - MarkSmith
Hi folks,

(I've had a search, can't seem to find this covered before, but please correct me if I'm wrong.)

I need to replace a split nearside, outer CV boot on my 1990 Golf II (1.6). I have the replacement boot kit (normal sort, from GSF, not a split or stretch one or anything).

I have acquired a 3/4" drive bar and 30mm socket for the hub nut. I have balljoint splitters (the clamp sort).

Never done this before on any car. The Haynes manual doesn't cover the job exactly, but it seems to suggest I need to remove the 32mm hub nut, unbolt the gearbox side, and remove the driveshaft. I haven't got in there yet to have a look, but do I really need to do this? Or is there an easier way? For example dislocating the ball joint, pivoting the hub outwards, and sliding the outer CV joing off the shaft like that? Or leaving the outer one connected, removing it from the gearbox end only, and slide the boot along the shaft?

I can't immediately understand why removing the hub nut (which promises to be the challenge in all this!) is going to enable the outer CV joint to come off the driveshaft any better...

I don't mind buying a few reusable specialist tools if it'll save some time. What's the best way of doing this? I'll be using axle stands so access under vehicle is not going to be great. A quick description of the job would be very useful.

Lastly... if I have to remove the gearbox end of the shaft, will I lose the gearbox oil? And where can I get that splined key (without buying the whole £25 set from Machine Mart - I already have a sex of Hex and Torx bits)? (What size is it?)

Thanks in advance!
-Mark
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Tue 7 Mar 2006 16:33
Replacing CV boot (VW Golf II) - pmh
I did the job on same car last weekend for daughter.

Haynes BOL just about gets it right, but it is not possible to remove the drive shaft ( at least on her 1.6) without moving the hub carrier outwards. I achieved that by removing the Mc strut to hub carrier bolts (as these are easier to get at) to allow sufficent clearance.

I think from memory it is a 8mm splined bit for inner bolts. Any good motor factor will know what it is. Clearance to undo these is tight, a 3/8 socket set is useful.

You will probably need a 4ft length of scaffold to inially break the hub nut (200 ft lbs!) and do this before jacking up the car! A helper on the brake pedal is useful.

I use a pit with the car supported under the front passenger side using large wooden blocks. Using axle stands is possible but make sure it is well supported and cannot fall whilst working.

Look carefully at the pictures and when you start the job it all becomes very obvious. Best of luck and just ask when stuck!


--

pmh (was peter)


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