March 2006
When I first start my 1998(s) 1.9 diesel Polo the engine sounds fine, apart from the usual noise from a cold diesel engine.
When the engine gets warmer and the idle speed drops, usually after about a mile or so, the whole car vibrates really badly.
As soon as you hit the accelerator, the vibrating stops so its fine whilst moving, but almost unbearable when stopped at red lights.
I have removed the EGR valve and cleaned it, checked that it does open and close, replaced vacuum hoses and even replaced the coolant temp sensor (as advised by VW!) and it still does it. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
(Forgot to mention the year in original post) Read more
Follow on from the New BR Member thread.
In 20 years time Amelie will be taking her driving lessons with ESM (Eurostate school of Motoring - Britain of course no longer exists in 2026)
What car will she be driving in, and what features will it have.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF > Read more
Shades of mad max?
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
What is the expected lifespan for common rail diesel injectors (HDi in this instance)? Or is it a case of 'How long is a piece of string'? Read more
Its more a case of how the car is looked after.
Putting petrol in the tank or the in tank lift pump breaking up = expensive repair bill.
Ive ssen HDI lumps with 150K - 200K + miles on & the original injectors.
Look after it, change the fuel filter & use a decent fuel & it will go on for years.
A while back I tempted fate by saying on this forum that I had not had a puncture in 18 years. Well I've had two since Christmas. In both cases they have been caused by metal debris on the road. I am not driving any differently so the only explanations are:
1. I have been very unlucky.
2. The low profile tyres on my car are more susceptible to punctures.
Have other people experienced this? Read more
Took wifes car in for a front tyre change. They spotted nail in a rear tyre but there had been no air loss. Said i'd come back next week.
Took "nail out" at home and it was a short nail/tack and not long enough to cause a puncture at all. Still okay after 6+ months. Hope I'm not implying they did something... but having thought about it maybe they did ;-(
Just been ringing around a few Honda dealers to find out how much a 37000 mile service is for my CIVIC TYPE-R, and very surprised to hear that this will be the first time that the brake fluid will be changed. Correct me if i'm wrong, but i understand that it should be changed no later than every 24 months(car is 30 months old). Last service was 6 months ago. No wonder the pedal is nearing the floor! I questioned this on the phone but every response was, 'that's in line with the schedule mate'! Read more
Some garages use a resistivity meter designed for hydraulic fluid. This reasures the conducivity of the fluid indicating what percentage of water has been obsorbed. At your last service they may well have checked this and found a low percentage so opted to leave this until a later service. The header tank obsorbs water first thus is a good early indicator of condition. Had you now had your brakes fixed and what did they change, front pads and discs and rear pads and a fluid change. ??? Regards Peter
Hi all - long time no type!
My old purple mondeo, which I've had for 4 years and driven to death, finally died the other day - or rather something else went wrong and I had to make the decision to say byebye *sniff*.
So, I've bought myself another one - a gorgeous TDCi LX on a 52 plate. 1 owner (fleat) with 91K and it seem sound.
I've read the car-by-car breakdown but its all a bit techie for me to really put it into perspective.
Does anyone have any hints or tips for me with this one?
Cheers, as ever - and hope all is well!
P
Read more
Erm - I never like talking money when I pay for a car as I always think most on here would have got it for cheaper!
I don't think I paid way over the odds for it - less than £5k and more than £3K ... but I also think I could have gotten it cheaper else where but I really liked the car.
What would you have expected to pay for it? 52 plate, 2.0 TDci, 1 owner and 97K on clock?
when accelerating the car goes well until 3.000 revs and then it goes flat could this be turbo trouble and if it is can i do any harm by keep on driving under 3,00 revs Read more
You haven't stated which TDCi you have - 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0?
I had a similar problem which did turn out to be the turbo in my 2002 1.8 115ps TDCi. The turbo had apparently been overboosting causing the ecu to cut reduce the fuel supply to protect the engine from any potential damage that could have occured as a result - hence the flat spot at 3000rpm (on occasions the engine would just 'hang' at 3000rpm). No fault codes were ever detected though.
The turbo was replaced and the problem has not recurred once in the 7 months since.
In another thread I mentioned that I'd heard the Barchetta was being put back into production, but I can't now find anything to back that up in any concrete fashion. Anyone got any info?
The only thing I can find is a page detailing what's on Top Gear next week:
www.bbc.co.uk/topgear/series_4/prog_9/
The fact that they're testing the Barchetta suggests it's available as a new car. Read more
You´d need your head examining if you bought a new one, even at 11k.
Second hand however they´re a much better proposition.
The ones on the web site must be the last few not yet sold as production has definitely stopped.
>>
>>Well you might be surprised that Autotrader has a few for sale.
04reg 4.4k £10k
05reg 3.0k £11k
05reg 2.0k £11k
05reg 0.0k £11k
06reg 0.0k £11.6k
05reg 3.5k £12k
05reg 10.0 £12k
Hi all-bit of advice please,
just coming up to 78k in my 51 plate astra, cambelt last done at 40k so I know it needs doing at the end of the month when the service is due . I know it will need a kit rather than just the belt itself- is there anything else that is prudent to change while the belt is off? Read more
Would you recommend the water pump gets done at the first ( 40K cambelt change ? I have a 1.6 Zafira on 37k which I assume is the same engine.
How long is a piece of string? A waterpump *could* fail at any time. It *should* however last 80k without any problems. It could even last 120k and onwards.
I look at it this way though, a cambelt kit costs around £100, plus there's the labour charge to fit it. If the pump fails 10k after the belt has been changed, you've got that labour charge all over again for the sake of a failed £30 pump.
Get whoever is doing your belt to give the pump a good inspection to see that there's no sign of leaks and that it spins freely with no signs of play or tightness. That's not to say it won't fail anyway, but it should give some indication as to it's condition.
Vectra 2.0 16v 1997 Ecotec. This car has had a small missfire all the time I'v owned it I'v changed loads of parts,and cleaned where I'v been told to clean! My son unpluged the air flow meter and the man. light came on.(made the car run worse) Plugged it back in,light went out.Car back to 'normal'Next day light came on again-I flashed the codes and got Air flow meter malfunction and O2 sensor circuit malfunction-Would the O2 sensor be linked to the unplugging? Or is it the fault? This is the first time the Man.light has ever come on!Ever since I have owned the car the plugs have been covered in soot every time I check them! The missfire is between 1.0 and 1.5 revs,worse on the overrun-Changed coil,idle control valve,cam and crank sensor,plugs and leads and air filter.Somebody help me please,starting to pull my hair out here! Read more
No movment with voltage! New O2 sensor has cured my fault.Many Thanks-Mick.
Browse
When the engine gets warm and the idle speed drops, my whole car vibrates really badly even though the warm idle speed is set correctly for my engine.
I have made sure the EGR valve is operating correctly, replaced the vacuum pipes, tried running millers diesel power plus through it, replaced the coolant temp sensor and i've been told the engine mounts are fine.
Could do without increasing the idle speed as its due its mot soon.
Any suggestions?