February 2004
I have recently come across a few Mercedes 450 SLC at around £1000 mark. I know it is the hardtop version of the SL but it is very cheap and very tempting.
Ones I would consider would be the V8 auto and I am planning to do most mechanical work myself. I cannot weld though.
Would it be a liability? Read more
This is a second car and is also used by 17yo son.
82000 miles, cambelt done at 65000, going well apart from occas electrical glitches. Boot gets a bit wet.
Only worth £1800-£2K on trade-so would you just run it on 'til it drops or is it a big repair bill waiting to happen?
It does the job for me at the moment and with a young driver would hesitate at letting him in a new car. Read more
No problems with a M reg Passat TDi at 120K, L reg Audi80 TDi at 133k and R Passat 110TDi at 145K (touching wood furiously...). Use Millers Diesellube if you are worried. If they do go wrong, as ever, cost will depend on where you go...
Friend has had Leon for about 6 months, keeps cutting out, totally dies sometimes, been back to the supplier half a dozen times, they tinker and say its fixed, she gets it back and it does it again. Getting scarey because it cuts out whenever it feels like it (like on the motorway!!!). Is this a common problem, if so what should I tell her to say the problem is when she takes it back again? Its a company car on a lease, can she refuse it and ask for a replacement?
Cheers All Read more
Cheers all, as usual a great help, H&R onto the problem.
Hi,
I have just purchased a VW Polo Coupe GT H reg and most of the time it is a good car. However I have had two intermittent problems and if anyone knows what it could be I would be very grateful for any help.
Last week I drove round a roundabout and I thought I felt it go to cut out (Extremely briefly) but it kept going. A while later I stopped at a roundabout and when it was clear pulled away. It started kangarooing but did not stall. I pulled up at the side and left it running for a bit trying to rev it but it would not go but would not stall either. After switching it off for a minute or so and restarting it it went but was a bit erratic.
I went to halfords and got some injector cleaner and filled it up with optimax and after half the tank the engine ran suprisingly smoothly for a car with 132000 miles on it.
Then today I started it and it was lumpy and erratic - Reversed off the drive and pulled away and it was doing it again. I found that if you hardly touched the accelarator though it drove and if you put your foot down it would go to die but not actually stall.
Has anyone got any thoughts? Have just purchased a new fuel filter but have not fitted it yet and changed the air filter. Read more
I will check the fuel pump but I have had a look under when running and it sounds OK - Does not really sound like there is a problem. Will Check the 3 second wine when starting tomorrow - Thanks for your replies.
I drove my first oil burner yesterday (new Mk IV Golf from National Car Rentals).
I now accept all the things people say about them (50 mpg, amusing torque - especially when turbo comes alive etc.).
But.... I could never put up with that noise! The low drone at speed is pretty bad and the sound at tickover or when doing a three-point turn is terrible.
Am I just over-sensitive? (I have a degree in music).
Read more
As for the sound at other times, the Ford TDCi 130
sounds marvellous - not far short of previous petrol V6s that
I had aspired to own (and I too, Peterb, am a
music grad). Needless to say, diesel motoring is so quick,
quiet, efficient, relaxing and smooth these days, that my old aim
of buying a nice petrol V6 is now well and truly
defunct.
Splodgeface
I would agree with everything you have said about modern diesels with regard to refinement, althought I think that the Ford TDCI has a gruffness about it that you don't find in the PSA HDI engines. Haven't Ford been involved in the joint development of an all alloy 2.0 litre diesel with the PSA Group recently? If so, is this to be seen in both companies' cars in the near future (if they are already).
There is one disadvantage of modern diesels though, they are very heavy in some cases. The 2.2 HDI in our C5 makes a big difference to the overall feel and handling of the car, compared with the petrol engined variants. It is to be hoped that an all alloy engine will solve this problem.
I seem to remember a problem of this kind on the forum before, but can't trace it:
SWMBO reports that her Clio 1.6 (00W) twice had a dropout on the fascia today. The first time, the fuel gauge fell and the warning lamp came on briefly. The second time, most dials fell to zero for a second or two, and she reports a buzzing from behind them. Running of the car not apparently affected. I haven't witnessed the problem during a 25-mile journey this pm. But I seem to recall a thread along these lines a few months ago.
The immediate cause may be low temperature - car lives outdoors. Any suggestions about contacts which could be cleaned, etc.? Read more
Thanks DD, but I don't think so. I seem to remember a general fault on a dash, but not of a Clio, maybe a 306?
From HJ's CBC Breakdown...
VERY SERIOUS PROBLEM OF STEERING COLUMNS SNAPPING. SHOULD REALLY BE THE SUBJECT OF A SAFETY RECALL......Reports of engines rattling on start up as pistons expand to fill bores. Not something to worry about unless engine uses oil.
Anyone with experience of these cars and such problems?
Thanks,
M.M
Read more
Hello Andrew,
Think I'm going to mail HJ and see what stories he'd heard to prompt the CBC breakdown comments.
I have sourced a TSB for a steering column repair to cure clicks/clunks. In fact looking at the detail I wonder if any failures could come from that work being carried out incorrectly. The column joint pinch bolt is a special one and *must* be replaced during this work. It wouldn't be the first time such a bolt had been reused with/without LokTite if the repairer thought it looked OK.
Regarding the engine this one I've taken on has a hollow slap/rattle for the first few minutes running from cold, and has used quite a lot of oil in 6K...hence I would like to understand the issue.
As to them being reliable...well there are a few about but I bet the numbers are actually tiny besides an average car. I think many are still being dealer serviced, they do try and convince owners they are a specialist car.
Funnily enough a websearch turns up a chap near me who is at his wits end with a Neon after having several steering columns fitted and at least one new engine...that still rattles but has been deemed acceptable by the service mamager!
M.M
Can anyone recommend someone in the west midlands who can do a full suspension geometery and 4 wheel aligment check?
cheers Read more
Just as a matter of interest Simon what problems are you getting to need a full geo check if any ?.
I've read a number of posts on these forums, but I'm still open to suggestions:
I'm looking at around a £15k budget for a new(ish) motor and the models I've been mostly considering are:
Audi A3
[What about the new 1.6MPI car they have on Special Offer at the moment?]
Honda Civic (5-dr)
[Not impressed with the lack of rear visibility in the 3-dr models]
Golf
[Taking a lot of stick right now, but I'm even thinking about the Match and Final Edition old-style cars - thoughts?]
Mazda 3
[These look cheap(ish), reliable and have plenty of kit, but I do have a preference for 5 drs (yes, I know the new Audi A3 is 3-dr only atm!). Any comments on the Mazda 3 and does anyone know when the 5-door Mazda 3 is out? (I heard June this year somewhere I think).
Bottom-line, I'm interested in your comments.
I'm after something:
1) Reliable
Had a Honda Civic for 8 years and absolutely NO problems with it outside of the usual wear'n'tear.
2) Comfortable
I spend about 2.5-3 hours a day minimum driving this car, so I want to feel comfortable in it.
3) Eats up mileage
I'm running about 25000 miles a year and would be looking to keep hold of this car for 3-6 years I reckon.
4) Petrol or Diesel
I need to work out the figures, but I'm open to running either a diesel or petrol engine. Read more
Leon II not until 2005 according to the car-by-car breakdown on the site.
Are there any websites that publish prices that cars sell for at auctions that can be used as a reference? I have seen the ww.smag.co.uk do but it is mainly scottish auction sites.
Does anyone know of similar which can be accessed without payment or being Trade?
Cheers Read more
I cant see how auction prices on their own will be that much use. Condition can make a huge difference. Unless each price had a detailed description you would have nothing better to make a comparision upon than a Glass's or parkers newstand guide. To find out what cars sell for you need to visit an auciton. HJ, in his auction reports, offers opinions on market trends, and mentions prices he thinks are note worthy, Ie the price given the condition and market as he percieves it. A list of cars and prices will tell you none of this. I cant find another resource like that. Read the reports, and sit through an auction and get "the feel" for prices. As cars become more expensive extras become a lot more important with regard to price. This information has to be factored into the price calculation as well. Given the time a car is in the ring, its not easy , and calls for quick cool thinking on the floor. The guides are only there for reassurance.
I might pop to the auction next week, i'll post a little list of prices and commentary if i get time.
Which car are you interested in?
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Rust
Engine corrosion: aluminium cylinder head - needs antifreeze
Rear suspension
Front suspension
Rust
All rubber seals
Petrol tank and lines: rust and all rubber parts gone
Brakes: all parts especially rubber and steel pipes
Rust
Cracking dashboard due to sun
Rust
worn trim - VERY expensive
More rust
madf