January 2004
Hello all.
What kind of symptoms go with a leak in inlet manifold (in the gasket).
Wifes Car was serviced today and they claim there is a leak but it has no symptoms.
Thanks.
Martin Winters. Read more
******* Thread now closed, please see volume 34 ********
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There aren't any HiFi speakers near it are there? The magnets in them can interfere with TV screens
Fill what's empty, empty what's full and scratch where it itches!
Dear All,
Son's Clio (K reg, 1.4 engine) has recently had new water pump. A month or so later the heater stopped working. In the dark and cold I had a quick look (he lives away)and thought I could feel hot water going through the hoses to and from the bulkhead before disappearing behind it to the matrix. Thought it might be an airlock so told him to take it back to garage and have them check it. Their verdict is that it needs a new matrix (£60) plus labour (£160). I understand it is a long rotten job to do but wondered if it was worth trying flushing the system or something else before going for new matrix. There are no leaks so would Radflush or something help? Any point in me disconnecting hoses and trying to flush?
Thanks for any suggestions - he is visiting us on Sunday (and from the weather forecast will need a heater for his journey home Sunday night!)
Phil Read more
In limited time available (and with limited technical expertise!) have had a good look at system. Inlet and outlet pipes through bulkhead both definitely get very hot. There is also a little heat coming through into the cabin (i.e. it is not stone cold). Aprilia's suggestion difficult because the hoses are different sizes so won't fit their opposite connections without a lot of "bodging" which I didn't like to do in case the bodges unbodged half way up motorway! Spanner Jack's "garden hose" treatment also not done in case I really broke something (matrix) and flooded the car. Carefully checked the bowden cable as Phil suggested both at the flap end and the control knob end and clips were tight and cable did not move or slip. Thought occurred that it could be the flap itself inside the box that wasn't closing fully but I could hear it "clunk" on operating the control and I was also deterred by having to remove most of the facia (according to Haynes) to get at the box. Also reckoned that having got that far it wouldn't take much more to replace the matrix!
So, I guess we'll take the easier way out and get the garage to do it! Especially since son needs to return to Leeds this afternoon to work. Luckily, his journey to work is only a couple of miles each morning so could walk if weather really bad!
Thanks for your help anyway.
Regards
PhilW
The filler pipe on my new(!) F reg Nissan Sunny coupe is leaking, it\'s rusting away. None of the scrapyards have one so can I treat it with rust eater and bodge it by encapsulating it in fiberglass matting / steel mesh and fiberglass resin? It only needs to last a year or two. Failing that, any other ideas? It\'s uneconomical to pay dealer prices for another.
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"The tank'sok it's just the pipe - this is joined to the tank by a rubber tube about 6" long. The pipe/breather alone is £150 from Nissan, can anyone recommend a cheaper / pattern supplier?"
Look at most Fords/Peugeots.. modern cars often have a similar arrangement. If the diameters and the shapes are roughly the same you could use one from a scrap yard..
(no guarantee it will not fail of course..)
madf
Hope only a simple answer is required for this one...
The driver side headlight (\'01, Pug 206) is not working, obvious I thought change the bulb (that I only changed a few months ago)...easy. However the headlights both work on full beam so that rules out the bulb as a problem? surely?
Faulty connector maybe..can anyone help?
cheers,
Craig
Clachnacudden
{I\'ve changed the subject header of your post to something more appropriate - that being the make of car and the problem. It\'s a bit less vague than the one you chose, and also doesn\'t contain a swearword!! DD} Read more
Sorry who was the Lady I thought only Pologirl was a lass !! Regards Peter
I guess at 96,000 miles those niggling little things are going to start happening on my '97 Mondeo estate. The rear door handle has started to stick such that if it isn't pushed back into place, anyone getting into the rear seat finds that the door will not fasten when it is pulled to. The handle is stiff and squeaks and I fear that after a period of time, it could seize altogether. I've tried squirting copious amounts of WD40 into the handle with no luck - it looks as though I will have to take off the interior door trim to gain access.
Have any Backroomers come across this problem, is there a simple solution and can anyone comment on the ease or otherwise of removing (and replacing!) the door trim?
Many thanks.
Read more
WD40 is a water displacant, not a lubricant. You'd probably be better off spitting on the handle than using WD40. More lube in spit.
Aside from spam, IMHO the most irritating feature these days is dealing with constant Pop-Ups on the screen. A lot of them are overtly for the purpose of flogging Pop-Up-Killer software. Is this the only solution?
Oz (as was) Read more
I can assure you I have had the battle with the TVLA and have an email from them which categorically states that you do not need a TV licence unless you actually use the equipment to receive or record television programmes. I had to give them my full details - name, address, etc. to get this email. The thing that amuses me is that I was not enquiring for myself but for my mother who hates all TV and only watches pre-recorded DVD\'s, videos and likes to play Grand Theft Auto. (no. the last bit was a joke.)
Their advice was to de-tune the equipment (the TV) so that not even the tiniest picture was visible. It is not necessary to physically disable the TV - just de-tune it and you are safe. They have to actually monitor you receiveing a signal to be able to prosecute you - this can\'t happen if the TV is de-tuned.
is it just me or are all 98 mondeo handbrake totally rubbish ??
as there no manual adjustment (even though the garage charged me for cleaning and oiling the adjuster !!!) i can only assume that they are all like this or the cable has stretched. is it easy to change the cable ? Read more
The handbrake on my previous Mk1 Mondeo used to go up approx 7 notches on the lever but still held OK and went through 2 MOT tests in this condition. I tried adjusting the rear drum adjusters manually and it made no difference, the adjusters were functioning fine on their own. After I fitted new cables the handbrake was coming up 5 notches.
My mondy 2000 (98) make a noise from FOS when cold. I finally norrows this down to the Aux Drive belt and decided that perhaps it was too tight but of course it has an automatic adjuster so there is no adjustment. the belt looks ok and is no problem in summer. but it's really noisy when cold. someone told me to put oil on it but i decided against as i would probaly end up with it sliping. I know that normal V belts can get noisy as they get polished but this is a flat multi v belt and does not look polished. Any ideas ? are they hard to change ? it does the aircon as well as water and electrics and steering. Read more
i wondered this myself but then i was told that if
i squirt a drop of wd40 onto the belt and it
goes quiet then that is the problem. so i did and
it works for about 30 seconds!!
The noise going away when you squirt WD40 on the belt just tells you the noise is coming from the belt, not necessarily that the belt is the problem. It could be the belt that is worn OR any of the problems I outlined above. Cheapest option IS to initially replace the belt, but if it is one of the other problems then the noise will return when the new belt has bedded in. Because the belt is self tensioning, a slack alternator, power steering pump or air-con pump will automatically be re-tensioned, up to a point, but out of alignment.
I'm sure this has cropped up before but have done a Forum search and can't find it. I have just received what looks like an official e-mail from MS which says
"Microsoft Client
this is the latest version of security update, the "January 2004, Cumulative Patch" update which resolves all known security vulnerabilities affecting MS Internet Explorer, MS Outlook and MS Outlook Express as well as three new vulnerabilities. Install now to continue keeping your computer secure. This update includes the functionality of all previously released patches".
Having also just done the latest updates from the MS site I can't find any reference to this either on their site or on my update history - is it a con or am I being overly suspicious? I'm sure someone mentioned that MS do not send info like this via e-mail - I've not received one before.
Thanks and sorry if I am going over recently covered ground Read more
I use an external USB Zip drive on a PC at
work. It often freezes while copying large numbers of files
Is this a 250Mb drive by any chance?...
Yes it is but not the sort that's powered by the USB port. I've only ever used 250 Mb disks. It was a lousy buy: an external CD writer would have cost about the same and the media would have been a fraction of the price.
It's often frozen for 10 minutes or more, by which time I'll usually have given up. When the drive is working correctly it takes less time than that for the files to be copied.
It's on a PC that's seriously overloaded with running programs (I've tried shutting some of these down to see if it makes a difference) and due for replacement in the next few months.
Curiously, a colleague has found that the drive seems to be more reliable if he copies and pastes the files, instead of dragging and dropping them in Windows Explorer. I don't see why this should make any difference but I'm going to try it myself.
Browse
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Workshop manual (Haynes), new gaskets, screwdrivers, pliers, adjustable spanner, small hammer, socket set and also some penetrating/releasing fluid like Plus Gas (or WD 40 if no proper penetrating/release fluid available). The time would depend on how confident you are. I suppose a mechanic could do it in an hour. Its very straightforward but there's always something that arises which is likely to mean you might take much longer. Like a stuck manifold nut or one which is hard to get to.