Dear All,
Son's Clio (K reg, 1.4 engine) has recently had new water pump. A month or so later the heater stopped working. In the dark and cold I had a quick look (he lives away)and thought I could feel hot water going through the hoses to and from the bulkhead before disappearing behind it to the matrix. Thought it might be an airlock so told him to take it back to garage and have them check it. Their verdict is that it needs a new matrix (£60) plus labour (£160). I understand it is a long rotten job to do but wondered if it was worth trying flushing the system or something else before going for new matrix. There are no leaks so would Radflush or something help? Any point in me disconnecting hoses and trying to flush?
Thanks for any suggestions - he is visiting us on Sunday (and from the weather forecast will need a heater for his journey home Sunday night!)
Phil
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You could try disconnecting the heater flow & return pipes, then 'carefully' force water through using a garden hose.
In My Opinion, the chemical cleaners dont seem to be successful in clearing blockages.
By the way, there are electric car heaters available that plug into the cigar lighter...
If the weather forecast is to be believed, then make sure he carries a decent mergency kit:
Blanket, Dry Clothes, Shovel, Flask, Energy Food, Torch, Fully charged mobile phone, etc etc
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An old 'trick of the trade' is to swap over the hoses so that the 'flow' becomes the 'return' and vice versa. Drive it around for a bit and you may find that silt is shifted out of the matrix and everything will work fine. Best to change the coolant a week or so after you do this and then put the hoses back to normal.
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Phil (W)
If you are getting hot from both sides of the Matrix its unlikely to be u/s. Problem lies with the arrangement of flaps in this heater box. Have encountered this problem with daughters 94 Clio and failure to heat was actually caused by the cable which controls the opening of the main flap slipping thro a tatty clip
securing the outer wall of the bowden cable. If you hang upside down in the drivers seat with a torch you will see the cable. Turn the knob on the dash and notice if the flap closes completely. If it is the slightest bit open you will get the air current from the intakes taking the short route and not passing thru the matrix. All that needs to rectify is pulling the bowden thru the clip so that the flap closes completely when the heater control knob is fully to the Hot position.
Hope this is your problem because if not the cost of replacement matrix is quite horrendous.
Phil I
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Thanks guys - usual prompt, knowledgeable and helpful hints from the forum. I will try your suggestions and let you know how it goes. Also taken note of "emergency kit" suggestions.
Much appreciated.
Phil
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Phil - I would hope (and assume) that the Clio has new coolant? But remember that the service schedule on old Clios did not mention a coolant change, so many dealers never did it. I have seen them with gravy in the cooling system, which is not likely to help the heater matrix.
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Andrew,
Yes. About a year ago i replaced the CTS to cure starting problem on the advice of Adam Going (it worked) and my question on this also gave rise to several other helpful answers which raised the question of Renault coolant problems. At his next service the coolant sytem was flushed and then (a week so later) refilled with good quality coolant.
Thanks for your response
Phil
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In limited time available (and with limited technical expertise!) have had a good look at system. Inlet and outlet pipes through bulkhead both definitely get very hot. There is also a little heat coming through into the cabin (i.e. it is not stone cold). Aprilia's suggestion difficult because the hoses are different sizes so won't fit their opposite connections without a lot of "bodging" which I didn't like to do in case the bodges unbodged half way up motorway! Spanner Jack's "garden hose" treatment also not done in case I really broke something (matrix) and flooded the car. Carefully checked the bowden cable as Phil suggested both at the flap end and the control knob end and clips were tight and cable did not move or slip. Thought occurred that it could be the flap itself inside the box that wasn't closing fully but I could hear it "clunk" on operating the control and I was also deterred by having to remove most of the facia (according to Haynes) to get at the box. Also reckoned that having got that far it wouldn't take much more to replace the matrix!
So, I guess we'll take the easier way out and get the garage to do it! Especially since son needs to return to Leeds this afternoon to work. Luckily, his journey to work is only a couple of miles each morning so could walk if weather really bad!
Thanks for your help anyway.
Regards
PhilW
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