May 2003
Just seen Motorhouse 2000 car supermarket flogging brand new alfa 166's (2.0, 2.5, 3.0) for £13-£16k. Even if they're imports, it seems an amazing buy - about £7000-£7500 off UK list. Read more
Just been to Egypt for a holiday, incredibly all the taxi drivers there have Peugeot 504 "family " estates, I've never seen so many in my life, many of which are 30 years old. the only alternatives were some Mercedes stacked headlight saloons from the early 70's
So thats where they all end up. Read more
Hindustan Contessa.
Ugly as sin and with a 75 bhp petrol or 55 bhp diesel engine.
Could anyone advise me. Are there likely to be any potential problems with using Slick 90 in my Jazz. Most of my journeys are the worst sort, very short and hardly get off choke.
These trips wore out a sierra I had from new, but the same habits have not made any impact on the mondeo that replaced it.
I am cautious this time as engine management systems are getting so complex.
PS- HJ thanks for the buying advice. Jazz,a brilliant car.
Fits 5 in comfort!!68 mpg at a steady 70, and 50 mpg around town, and nippy too!
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I'm not sold personally on PTFE additives.
I used to make very similar journeys before I changed jobs, three miles to work and back. It barely ever warmed up the engine especially in winter.
I'd recommend a good oil like Magnetec and change it regularly and the occasional fuel-injector cleaner added to the fuel once every 12 months.
This seems a bargain sports car to me. For under £5k you can buy a low mileage, 220bhp car that was raved about at launch.
But that Fiat badge on the front often conjures up thoughts of unreliability and questionable build quality?
What are the views of this car? Too high running costs to justify it?s purchase? Is the chassis really that good? Are the non-turbo 16v and 20v worth considering?
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Well I'll add a few comments as I owned a 20V Turbo for 2.5
years.
In terms of reliability I had only one major problem in my time
with the car and that was due to me not getting a water leak
on the windscreen fixed in time. So I would say they are
generally reliable but one the other hand they do need to be
maintained - the front wishbones need replacing every few years
and they wear front discs heavily. I had a replacement steering
rack which was not cheap and various other sundry items. I
had all the work on the car undertaken at a specialist (L&M in
High Wycome) to save money and get better service than a main
dealer. In my experience main dealers are pretty poor when
working on this car - one couldn't change the oil filter
properly. Overall I spend quite a lot on maintaining the coupe
so I would ensure that you have on average 1K or so a year to
spend on servicing/maintainance.
Only buy a turbo - the performance is so much better I can't
understand why anyone would want a non turbo. Prices on
autotrader seem to reflect this. I would only buy a car where
the cambelt has been done and you can see the bill. Its silly
money at a dealer (1100 quoted) or reasonable at a specialist
(650 L&M). No specialist will take the engine out for this now
and I doubt main dealers will either.
The exhaust manifold can crack on one cylinder - no real loss
in performance so many will not have been fixed. Don't know if
mine was broken as I never looked.
Watch for crash damage - I crashed mine sadly although not
majorly. I wouldn't rule one out on that but obviously look at
the repair bill to ascertain whats been done.
Only buy one like mine with an A4 folder full of all bills and
history - with a car like this I think you need to be happy with
the seller as much as the car. Also make sure they have the
red (master) key. It really is 1k to get a new one! (Although
you only need it if you loose all the other keys)
Great cars overall - huge performance and good handling, rock
solid around corners and pulls up sharply when required. Not
the faint hearted or financially challenged though.
Check the websites mentioned - wealth of useful info there.
Cheers,
Mat.
Having popped into the local branch of german and swedish to get a couple of bits for me, the old man was sufficiently impressed with them that he asked me if I know any similar suppliers of parts for japanese cars - nissan especially.
Of course I don't know any as I don't drive a jap car. But I know a man/backroom that might. Feel sure I've seen this come up before, and tried a quick search but didn't find anything. So, if anybody has any suggestions, or better recommendations.....
Many thanks Read more
Pete, where are you situated? I know of several although they may not be in your area. Also, I have used a mail order supplier of secondhand parts who was good.
I'm sure I'm not the first to have posted such a message, and I certainly won't be the last, but here goes anyway. Regulars will remember my request for advice regarding Kymco motorcycles earlier in the year, and how I mentioned I'd intended to learn to ride a motorcycle when the weather improved.
I had my CBT booked for today, as the weather had improved sufficiently (well, it was last week!). Of course, s**'s law dictates that it had to throw it down today, but that didn't spoil the fun.
Despite the fact that it threw it down, and that I was wobbly as a weeble at low speeds, nothing could take away the fact that it was all really good fun. It's interesting how DIFFERENT this is from driving a car! Just little things like when you get upto speed, how you're actually having to pull yourself forward from the wind.. and just how fast 30-40mph seems on a bike! Ahh, it's great!
Due to recent alterations to my financial situation, I am no longer considering purchasing a bike in the near future, but I do intend to continue learning with the people who did the CBT.
I'm also giving some thought to DAS again, as the 125 actually felt a little too small, in fact the instructor commented on how the bike wasn't really suited to my size, and I may find it easier (even the low speed stuff, apparently!) on a slightly larger bike, and they suggested that in the near future, I come back, take a couple of hours practice on the school's CB500, and see what I think after that.
So, I intend to do that (I know, something of a U-turn from my anti-DAS stance in my last m/cycle related post), and take it from there.
Apologies for me going on and that, but I wanted to share the fact that I really enjoyed the CBT, even *with* the rain.. and the kick-only start CG125! I think I'm hooked :)
Will keep you posted
-David L. Read more
Thanks for the kind words, all.
Just thought I'd pop in with an update - after another go on the CG125 the other week, I finally got to ride the CB500 today.
Still having great fun with it (the weather being a little nicer has helped!), and I do seem to be getting the hang of this riding lark, as I'm not so wobbly with the U-turns and such like anymore. It's also nice to be on a bike that can lug my.. erm.. big bones around at 60+, even with a headwind on the dual carriageways!
I'm feeling a lot more confident in the cycle's ability to balance, and realising that to make the bike fall over, or become unstable - it's going to be *me* doing something silly, not the bike (which was how it had felt up until today!)
All in all, a lot more comfortable riding on the roads, and mixing in with traffic. This said, I'm not quite confident to think I'm getting anywhere near test standard yet - it does take the pressure off when you've got the instructor (or occasionally a local taxi firm; what's that about?) in the earpiece warning you of the tight bends, the dodgy road surface, advising you on the road positioning, etc, etc.
I've also invested in a little bit of my own safety gear, as it is easier and more comfortable to be in your own stuff, rather than the school's one-size-for-all gear.
Oh, and electric start; what a luxury!
Anyway, I'll stop going on now, difficult as that is - but suffice to say, I'm enjoying it, and I appear to be making progress. What's strange is I don't remember learning to drive being this enjoyable...
Again, will keep you updated
-David L
I am considering fitting one of the above units to a BMW E46 320d SE (150 bhp), and was wondering if any B.R`s had any experience with these units and if their potential performance benefits are worth the expense of approx £400. ?? Read more
I fitted a similar product to my 156 JTD (5 cyl common rail TD)and was most impressed. Try www.dieselchiptuning.com/catalog/default.php
They are around £325 and in my case added about 25bhp and better drivability and economy. Took a matter of minutes to fit as well.
Before you do anything, I strongly recommend that you check with your insurers what the impact will be on your premiums. Whatever you do, don't chip the car and "forget" to tell them.
In my instance, my insurers were happy to leave the premium where it was, so you may not get stung.
Regards,
ND
I have a VW Golf Mk 4 TDI at 34600 miles the mass flywheel was replaced due to poor running. Now at 57000 miles this has failed.VW do not wish to know about it as I am out of Extended warrantee. It also has damaged the clutch lever and I am told by VW that this may take weeks to obtain the part no is 02J141719b
does anybody have info on this problem.
Thanks
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Many thanks for those words of advice I will do just that.
but I must wait a little to give him the details which I am now gathering. I will will keep you updated.
Mahon
Its renewal time for the bike insurance. Last 4 years have been with NU at about £480 fully comp. I ring around a few different brokers to see what they can do but the savings, if any, havn't made it worth changing. I tried the RAC site today being a member, in the past for the car they have been dear, and they came up with a quote of £308 for the Blackbird fully comp. Bought on the spot. In fact it was so cheap I rang them back after a congratulatory cup of tea just to make sure it really was fully comp. Thanks to Judith for doing the deal.
I tell you I'm really chuffed at this one.
Bill Read more
Phoning around earlier this year -Yamaha R1, 295 fully comp, 190 TPFT, 90 TPO (ancient git, rural postcode, garaged, alarm/immob).
Bikes are slowly getting insurable again at last.
Martin
Hi,
My mk V Escort RS2000 is difficault to engage gears when cold.
I\'ve used WD40 to lube my gearbox linkage and it doesnt seem to have made much difference.
I\'m going to try greasing the linkage tomorrow.
What type of gear box oil does this car require guys?
Many thanks.
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I suppose the clutch is disengaging properly? Doubt that SAE 75/90 oil is any different to 80.
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Out of interest, the current issue of carbuyer magazine highlight this deal on page 102.