May 2003

volvod5_dude

I have just visited my local tyre retailer and they have informed me that my front Pirelli P6000's are worn out at 14k miles!!! I will be asking Volvo why they fit such crap tyres on a £26k car (V70 D5 SE). I know, Pirelli sell them cheap to car manufactures because no one else will buy them. I don't do racing starts, I stick to speed limits (except on motorways) basically drive the car sensibly. I'm really annoyed I haven't had the car 12 months. I managed to get 22k on the front Michellins with my previous V70 2.4T (no traction control)which was ok. The tyre guy said he has had dozens of complaints regarding Pirelli 6000 tyres and recommends customers just don't buy them anymore. I think I shall be buying Michellins from now on.

VD5D.

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jake

Just purchased 2 P6000 205/50 16z for volvo 850 today.
£176 for the pair fitted & balanced inc vat. Hope I get more than 14k.

Previous Avons had done +30k and avons on rear have done +30k and are hardly worn. But not stocked at my supplier any more.

Charles1600

Can anyone help, just bought a vectra premiere 1996 (N), 29,000 genuine miles on clock, everything seems fine apart from a severe lack of power at low rev's (especially uphill, which causes a big problem since I live on a VERY steep hill and have to accelerate in first) combined with a jerking effect (not the clutch since new one recently fitted). However, once rev's reach 2500-3000 rev's it seems powerful and smooth. Has anyone experienced this and what was the resolve? Read more

Dynamic Dave

I don't know if there's a time limit - cambelt


Recommended changed at 4 yrs, or 40,000 miles. Whichever is sooner.
charlie_boy

My 'demic' Astra 1993 1.7TD GLS heated and electric mirros do not work via the control. My way of thinking is that the propability of the both motors plus heaters packng in at the same time is pretty remote.

Therfore I have been looking at the fuses, and cannot locate one for the electric mechanism for the mirrors. The heated mirrors I can find (via the fuse illustration on the compartment), which looks like a huge rectangluar block (a relay?) above the fuses. How can you remove them? The cover (it has Lucas on it) came off in my hand with the electric gubbins still attached to the board. Can you buy replacements of these and if so, how much? What are they actually.

Please help. Read more

Deryck Tintagel

The fuse for the heaters I would guess comes from the same - I'll have a look at my Vectra wiring for this one. I would guess that the relay should still work even though the lid is off but you should be able to get another from Halfords or similar for a few quid. I think that this will only control the heaters though and should be controlled by the heated screen switch

Charles1600

Can anyone help, just bought a vectra premiere 1996 (N), 29,000 genuine miles on clock, everything seems fine apart from a severe lack of power at low rev's (especially uphill, which causes a big problem since I live on a VERY steep hill and have to accelerate in first) combined with a jerking effect (not the clutch since new one recently fitted). However, once rev's reach 2500-3000 rev's it seems powerful and smooth. Has anyone experienced this and what was the resolve? Read more

Dynamic Dave

There\'s no need to post the same message on both Forums. I have write locked this post and will be deleting later.
--
Dynamic Dave
Back Room Moderator

mailto:dave_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk

Paul Robinson

I'm seeing ever increasing amounts of paperwork from people who are considering opting out of company car schemes and taking car allowances. Often it says somewhere, something like - if the employees position involves visiting customers/clients, the allowance must be used for a car that is appropriate for the employees position.

I'd be interested to read peoples general comments about what they consider that means for middle management types, also more senior heads of departments etc. Read more

smokie

Morris, earlier in the year I had a long chat with the tax office following a tip off from an accountant friend that the rules were changing.

The key thing is that I do not have a company car. See www.inlandrevenue.gov.uk/cars/fuel_ben_charge_0304...m. My recollection is that the scale charges only apply if you have a company car with your fuel card. There's no doubt that if I was charged scale charges I would be better off to give the card back and pay my own private fuel (except that isn't an option with my company).

This year's changes don't seem to affect fuel for me, but they do prevent me claiming costs of running the car (incl depreciation) directly against tax I think I can claim a mileage rate ( www.inlandrevenue.gov.uk/pdfs/ir124.htm) , but I'm not sure how this works - as I understand it, the rate includes an element for fuel but in my case this is already paid. It's probably time I wrote to the tax office to get a clear answer in writing...

secretsquirrel

Hi,

My vehicle is a 1998 Motorcaravan based on a Fiat Ducato 1.9td (i think it is a Peugeot engine)
The problem started Just recently and appears to be getting worse, when starting from cold, although it starts easily it runs rough for about 30 seconds with white smoke from the exhaust. after this it runs perfectly.(passed the MOT smoke test yesterday at a reading of 1.21) The fuel and air filters have been Changed (after the problem first appeared),also oil and filter,it has a low mileage (13000mls)
Any suggestions much appreciated. Read more

secretsquirrel

Managed to get a set of Beru glow plugs and have now fitted them.

Problem is cured. Thanks to all concerned.

volvoman

I've always bought my cars using cash but am wondering if there are there any circumstances under which it is better to buy a new car using credit of some form as opposed to using cash which is readily available and not required for other purposes ?

Are there any significant advantages of purchasing using one method as opposed to the other ? Read more

DavidHM

Agree although 0% finance on a new car is frequently a manufacturer initiative that is basically 'take it or leave it' and not funded by the dealer in any way, so they can't offer any more off whether or not you take it.

Amin_{p}

guys and girls, one of my cars has developed a strange problem with the gearbox. Basically the longer I use the car , the harder it is to change gears. When i start up the car first thing in the morning, the gears change like a treat, but as I continue driving, after about 1 hour, it becomes so hard that it is almost impossible to change gear. Usually gear box porblems are for cold engines, but this one is very strange?!?! any ideas welcome. thanks Read more

Clanger

Try draining the gearbox oil (when hot) and refilling with fresh. I don\'t think the 1.4 petrol has a level plug, you just fill with the correct measured amount.

If that doesn\'t work, it may be a dragging clutch.


H (Darcy rebranded).

pjb

My 1994 Saab 9000 has recently been fitted with a 1995 head. The original temperature sensor had one electrical connection but the replacement head can apparently only accept a sensor with two connections. A sensor has been fitted into the redundant bolt hole where the distributor clamp used to go so I do at least know how hot the front near side of the head is! However, the gauge seems to lag considerably behind the water temperature and I am not at all confident that it would warn me of a problem in time for me to react. As far as I can tell the cooling system is working correctly. I understand that the 1995 cars used the sensor to control both the radiator fan and the temperature gauge. I have tried connecting my single lead to each of the sensor's connections but the gauge does not respond. Has anyone come across this problem and solved it, apart from changing the head?
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Mike H

Also saabclub.co.uk, the Saab owners club site, go to Forums.

pjb

I have the ACC set to 20 deg and for 45 minutes, on a cold day, all is fine. After 45 mins, you can almost set your watch by it, the output from the ACC turns to cold. The only way to stay warm is to increase the temp setting to 'max'. Saab have suggested a new ACC unit but I am not convinced as it behaved correctly when tested. Is there a sensor somewhere that could be playing up? Any ideas gratefully recieved.
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pjb

Thanks for your thoughts Dave. I will have a go at my local Saab dealer (Haymill) to see what diagnostics they have got but my favourite non-franchised specialist plugged a test set into the system and gave it a clean bill of health. I will probably buy a new internal sensor and see what happens but its just not cold enough right now to give it a good test! I have had the sensor out and it was clean and the fan was running. I like your idea about 'borrowing' a new ACC unit.