October 2002
Hi
I need to replace the O/s/f hub on my 97 vectra.
I'm led to believe this will be fairly straightforward- jack up car, support, remove wheel, caliper and disc, remove hub end cap, undo hub nut, swap hub and refit.
Is there anything I've missed?- also where's the best place to position a trolley jack for this? Thanks.
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As s**s law would dictate in this cold weather, the heater fan for the passenger compartment has given up the ghost along with the rear screen demister.
I've tested the fan which works fine, so it can't be that, so therefore resorted to stripping the dashboard out to see if there was a loose connection as the fan sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. It has completely stopped now.
Has anyone had experience of this? Or is there a common link between the rear screen demister (switch) not working and the fan not working as both of them stopped at the same time. I have checked the fuses which are fine. I'm not sure either if they are on the same circuit, so if one stopped, the other may do too. Read more
Re the fan.
If the fan is very weak or not working check the air con fluid level first. There is a tiny sight-glass on top of the reservoir.
Handbook will show where it is: on the 1.9TD on the LHS seen from the front.
If the aircon fluid is zero,there will also be very little resistance from the sliding controls.
Speaking from very recent experience !
ok, i'm sick of my 406, its problematic. i'm setting a budget of 9K-10K for a new car and i suspect i will probably own it for 5 years. I do about 10,000 mile pa and i don't like super mini's or medium sized cars, i want a bigger car like a 406.
So what should i get, max of 30K on the clock and totally flawless reliability, i.e. nothing should be spent on the car in those 5 years apart from consumables (asking a lot i know)
Undecided over diesel or petrol, and i must be proud of it.
I am only young so i don't know whats good/bad so i need help.
Also at the time of buying i want it to feel new even if 3 years old, ie look brand new.
ok what do i get? Read more
£10K will get you a stunning Omega! Might not have the image but will be wonderful drive!
S.
_____________________________________
SVPworld (incorporating PSRworld)
www.svpworld.com
My 406 never starts that weel when wet and i've got some damp start left over from my previous car.
With this being a diesel engine i don't know where to spray it for maximum effect, obviously the battery but where else? Read more
Hi Andy - Can't believe that 406's 'don't like the wet'. The same engine is in my Citroen, as well as several other models. You need to look for an electrical or 'air in fuel'problem.
www.fahncahn.com/test/bikethieves/bikethieves.htm
Mob justice.
Cracking. ;-)
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more
Alvin
Good idea! The company I work(ed) will be shut down and moved to the Czech republic at the end of Novmeber because it is cheaper to make the machines out there. So if the Eastern block is happy to take all our industry they may as well have our social scumbag overflow as well.
I have recently purchased a Cr250 Xrosser and am frightened to death of taking it out of the garage for fear of someone following me home and waiting a day or two before relieving me of it. It is chained to a huge bench with a car parked upto it in an alarmed garage with another car parked in front of the garage but I don't think that would stop a determined thief. Am I becoming paranoid?
Every evening when I leave work, the drill is the same. 2 minutes wait (maximum) to get onto the main road, 400 yards and a roundabout, then down a slip road onto a very busy dual carriageway where the traffic flow is around 80 mph. So to avoid being rear ended, I'm running my Audi straight up to 80 (approx 3750 rpm) with the engine almost stone cold. I can't help thinking this is bad for it - can anyone reassure me? (Or otherwise.)
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com Read more
Richard,
You can be reassured that provided you change the oil to manufacturer's schedule (which I assume is what you state) then you will be OK.
Your car is designed and tested to meet the needs of the most demanding customer, the German Motorist.
Your drive cycle partly replicates that of a typical German motorist, who expects to get the published maximum speed and performance of his vehicle on the Autobahn, whatever the temperature of the engine. If it does not give that performance, he is back at the Dealer pretty sharpish. I kid not.
In my opinion, your max. wear is taking place in the first 30 secs of operation, while the hyro-dynamically lubricated bearings are awaiting oil pressure and the pistons are still rattling in their bores.
Also, if its a petrol engine it will warm up pretty quickly anyway.
Just had the first repeat of last year's problem where SWMBOs Fiesta 1.1 cuts out within 1/2 mile of setting out with a cold engine.
It does this because the oil is partly emulsified, and bunging up a breather pipe (?) which goes from the oil filler cap. I can start the car just by removing the cap, letting it run for a few seconds then replacing it. It's then fine until the next time.
I discussed this here last year, and as a result replaced the head gasket and did some other bits, all to no avail. The problem is she does about 2 miles (or less) each way to work, and barely any other mileage. The particular engine type is prone to moisture which therefore never gets burnt off.
I remember very well all the ideas from last year, thanks for those, but today's question is simple.
Can I remove the breather pipe during the winter, and what ill-effect will that have, if any? Read more
someone else with the same idea! see the 'thrashed from cold' topic.
Now that is all I want! European prices for UK cars and customers. The price saving on the Galaxy (I think) is as good as you'll get from Europe and makes it pointless importing.
Just a shame they cannot do it all the time on all the models. Something like 57 out of 75 models sold in the UK ARE cheaper when bought from Europe. Read more
Anyone care to hazard a guestimate of prices and odo readings when these "one careful owner" motors appear on some forecourts later in the week.
99T Mondeo Aspen TD (127k);
99T Vectra 2.0DI LS (115k)
98R Omega 2.0GLS (161K)
99V Passat S TDI 90 estate (159k).
Happy Motoring Phil I Read more
>>Too much. <<
If this had been at a smaller provincial sale I would have a limit of £7500 and probably stood a good chance under that. Certainly not ready for retail, especially with no docs - I was surprised to see a dealer buy it at £9200. I was only going to £8250 because I particularly wanted one for a little while - and even that was allowing for a 'Blackbushe premium'.
I think this was probably the final straw for Blackbushe. If you can't get a car like this cheap on a Wednesday, when are you going to get a bargain?
PB.
Watched the above programme last night,- very interesting. The bit about the Hesketh F1 team especially - they evidently went through a whole season with only one car, (and beat Ferrari!)
I can't recall any other 'private' teams achieving as much in F1.
P. Read more
No, Toad but I've got a good imagination ;-)
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Wheel bearings, seals?
Position trolley jack under the jacking point (see handbook) but with a piece of wood on the jack to avoid damaging the body.
BUT I would also use axle stands .. trolley jacks can deflate: you will be crouched under a wheel, if it falls on you you could be seriously injured.
I would suggest you buy a Haynes manual or borrow one from your local library: most can get you the latest one . (That's what I do as a mean Scot)