October 2002

Harmattan

The aroma of 95 octane is rising from the keyboard as I type this. Where can I get a decent petrol can that won't leak down the side of the car or a hotlawnmower engine or on my hands? I invariably end up chucking away the plastic type which don't have proper threading or the plastic seals are just not up to the job of sealing after a couple of uses. I can't seem to find the flat Paddy Hopkirk metal safety ones that used to be around and may have been better made.

Do any of the prestige car makers have a high quality one as an accessory that can be relied on not to leak or topple over on every corner? I used to have a Volvo metal can that fitted inside the spare wheel but even that leaked at the side seams after a while. Or should I be trying a marine chandler although they are a bit thin on the ground in the middle of England?

Any suggestions/brand names would be much appreciated to end years of frustration. Read more

Rich Mixture

My local branch of Motorists Discount Centre carries both the 10 and 20 litre Paddy Hopkirk jerry cans (think they were about £16) and sells the PH spouts to fit at £5. All in a nice military green too!

RM

dave18

-Low coolant warning light came on today, after a 150 mile journey last night. Engine cold when light came on.
-Very slow loss of coolant (the pint I replaced is still there after driving around, and the car has been driven a few thousand miles since having coolant replaced)
-Loss of power when cold. It really doesn't want to accelerate hard and will misfire if I try (if necessary that is; I normally keep to no more than 3000rpm)

However there is no overheating and the oil looks fine. I'm confused, but could these symtpoms indicate gasket problems? I've been wondering about the cold running for a while - its great once warm. Just posting this because I was concerned about the warning light. Read more

IanT

Replace cylinder head gasket plus timing belt - 309GLD 1.9 diesel (non-turbo).

£198.54 by non-franchise garage in 1997 (probably using pattern parts).

547HEW

Help!

Can anyone out there advise how to remove the engine mount bracket which bolts to the timing end of the block?

The issue is that there is just not enough clearance to withdraw the bracket. It fouls against the inner wing. I have tried raising the engine to max height possible (EGR throttle spindle arm fouls against underside of scuttle).

Lowering the engine seems to be no use either.

I am posting this in the hope I have missed something, and that there is someone who has done this job before.

I have latest VW workshop manual version 06.00, and no clues there.

Vehicle has airconditioning which does not help re foul condition. (pipes partly in the way, and limits engine movement in bay).

Thanks for any suggestions. Read more

Question vecra air con
keemar

i have been told that i need a new compressor for the air con on my 1997 2.0L any body had this done that knows the cost. Read more

Dynamic Dave

Pete,

Could you not just adjust the hot/cold temp knob to compensate? If too cold, turn up the heater a bit.

Mark (RLBS)

For continued conversation around Traffic Calming, Traffic Organisation and the like.

I will close this thread when it reaches 100 replies or thereabouts and open a new one.

Older versions will not be deleted.


Mark (RLBS)
Moderator at Work

mailto:mark_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk Read more

Johan

If you want to read about the health and safety effects from driving over potholes, rough roads and road humps, search for the report "Whole-body vibration when riding over rough roads". It is compiled at the Swedish National Road Administration, research in cooperation with expertise from the National Institute of Working Life. You may find the report at The Ride Quality Homepage, www.ride-quality.tk, or at the SNRA website www.vv.se/for_lang/english/publications/skakstudie...f
Regards, Johan

Bob Prescott

I would appreciate anyones views on the following

I have a 2001 Avensis diesel with a trip computer as a standard item. The average indicated mpg, over a tank of full, is consistantly indicating 13% better fuel consumption than it actually is. The "Range" left to run on the remaining fuel in the tank, is out in as much as I estimate that it would run out well before the range says zero, wheras the instruction book says that there should be fuel left when it indicates zero. The dealer has changed the computer display, only to make matters worse. Both he and Toyota now say that such errors are within the specification, but have failed to come up with a specification. Has anyone else had any experience with Avensis trip computers. Read more

Bob Prescott

Something that I forgot to add to my query above is that both the dealer and Toyota refuse to accept that the problem could be with a sensor or other system that feeds data to this trip computer. This seems somewhat illogical to me. Anyone have any views

Swebb

I've got a Rover 200SDi diesel (1998 46K on the clock). I was driving it down the motorway and it was running great then it suddenly lost power and the red engine management light came on. I pulled over and took the car out of gear and realised the engine was still ticking over so I turned it off. I then checked the oil and so on and all seemed fine. I started the car again and the tickover seemed ok again and the engine warning light didn't come on. I started to pull away but the engine had no power only made it to about 8mph. I revved the engine out of gear and it only managed around 1.8-2k revs before running out of steam and not going any higher !!!

Any body have a clue what this could be. The RAC couldn't rind the problem and now a rover dealership have had it for 5 days and are running out of idea's ?????

Some things I do know :

The fuel is diesel i ran about 120 miles on the tank before the problem.

The fuel filter seems ok and no air in the system.

The intercooler/airfilter are letting air into the manafold.


Rover are talking about trying a different fuel pump off another car but could a faulty fuel pump still allow the car to tick over so well ? If it is the fuel pump anybody know of any places in the midlands where I can get a recon one or it repaired because Rover will charge the earth !!!

Any idea's, ANYBODY ????
Read more

Swebb

Anybody know where i can get some of this biocide stuff to clean the tank and pipes out over the next few tank fulls ?

Or have any info about it ?

Question Door won't open
Ben79

My 1999 Xsara 5 door won't open one of the back doors. The button on the inside moves when you use the remote. I thought at first it may have been iced shut this morning, but that is now not a possibility.

When moving the locking button inside on the back door, the clicking noise sounds the same as the working door.

I have removed the door panel and cut away some of the plastic inside and can feel the rods from the locking button, inside door handle and the child lock switch entering into the lock, but cannot see very much. I do not have the time today to be removing the window runner in order to see more of the mechanism.

Has anybody had a similar problem with another Citroen or Peugeot?

Thanks in advance.
Ben Read more

Colin M

I have a import business which has been doing reasonably well. In August 2001 we were understandably quiet, and sales picked up in September until Bin Ladens pilot's had their day. Three weeks later, it was business back as usual. This year, the phone went quiet in August and has been like that since. My ads in Top Marques and Autotrader for some seriously discounted new imports have produced barely a peep. The website returns are quiet and email enquiries a third of normal levels. Where is everyone? Have you noticed a serious downturn this autumn or do I need to rethink my marketing?

Read more

Colin M

> xenon comments <

I'll post it as a separate thread, may be worthy of discussion!

Rita

Yesterday parked in an open-air Council car park. On leaving by the only exit I realised that I would have to traverse a heavy metal base plate with a row of raised teeth shaped rather like the Thames Barrier (the three centre teeth were down).
I gingerly started to cross, realised that the teeth did not seems to be depressing – the graunchy noise of metal on metal was a dead give away - and on the basis that I hadn’t reached the point of no return backed off ever so slowly into the car park.

I then parked in an area where I could see the silhouette of the next dozen or so cars exiting. Some cars just cleared the upright teeth; others scraped the entire underneath of their vehicles whilst lurching from side to side. The noise on some of the cars was horrendous.

Ho hum, I thought, now what Pondered, then made my escape by different means.

Subsequently phoned the Council Parking Department and explained the situation. I enquired if their Public Liability insurance was up to date as they may be heading for a number of damage claims. Concern was shown particularly when I suggested that metal teeth, ruptured petrol tanks and sparks was not a desirable scenario. Action was promised ‘this day’. I await the outcome.

One thing that puzzled me was what was the function of this contraption other than to rip one’s tyres to shreds if one entered the park by the exit. The lady in the Parking Dept. didn’t know either. Possibly it is a relic of a previous parking system.

Rita

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The Watcher

Sounds like the council have turned the entrance and exit routes around but failed to remove the teeth you mention.

The teeth are usually to stop people trying to drive out of the entrance without paying.

have you car checked very carefully and present the council with the bill for any damage.