November 2002
I have had this car from new at the end of January 2002. The car is used for courier work town and country.
After about 3000 mls the glow plug light started to flash, I took it back to my dealer and was told it was an injector fault. They adjusted the injector and it was OK for a few more 1000 miles. Then the same problem again, same procedure as above and it was OK again. You guessed it happened again, this time they renewed No.3 injector. All was fine till last week when it happened again, this time they are renewing No.4 injector.
Is anyone else having this problem, or do I have a bad car.
I have 23000 mls on this engine. The best mpg I have got from this car is 38 mpg.
This post has now reached 86 replies. A new Volume has been created since a poster asked for specific help. Just to make reading and responding a bit more managble -PU Read more
Anyone had a oil change done at kwik fit? or Hometune. Any idea what oil they use as standard unless you "upgrade"
The Kwik Fit Website (www.kwik-fit.com) states:
"The Oil and Filter service that Kwik-Fit offer is known as Kwik-Lube This consists of: Draining the oil, Fitting a new oil filter,Refilling the oil sump with new Mobil Super Multigrade Oil"
However when you look further into the "special offers" page, it states "Kwik-Lube" at £18.00 (great quality multigrade oil providing great value for money), and offers "Mobil Super S" at £26.00 (A premium quality engine oil delivering improved protection and performance) and "Mobil 1" at £34.00 (The worlds most advanced engine oil and race proven. Delivers the ultimate in protection and improved fuel economy)
So it looks like the "Kwik Lube" service is the one to avoid - unless you want some cheap unknown oil in your car.
Not driving a F1 car (only Fiat Brava 1.4) I assume that Mobil 1 is an overkill (car 4 years old) - so imagine that Mobil Super S is the one to use!
Having said that there is no mention of Mobil Super S on the Mobil UK website - only Mobil 1. Does this mean that Super S has now been replaced by Mobil 1?
Anyone know anything else?
I already know that they use Coopers filters as replacements.
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A few stories of Kwik-Fit :
8< 8< snip
Sorry johnny l, too much naming and shaming to allow your post to remain present.
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Dynamic Dave
Back Room Moderator
mailto:dave_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
As most modern cars have electronic management systems , are there any safeguards required when disconnecting/changing the car battery.
I know about the Radio Security code but wondered if these management systems also "lost" their memory on disconnection of the battery supply for a long period of time ?
I`ve been "told " , that on Fords , the engine management system "recalibrates" itself over the next 10 miles.
Is this true and if so , how does it do that ?
Thanks
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please don't bring it back
don't even joke about it
H.
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Stranger in a strange land
Over the weekend I was fiddling around with my car, I unscrewed a plug on the driver’s side door, which is used to control all electrical devices on the driver’s side. When I screwed the plug back on the remote central locking stop working. What happens now is when I push the button on the key to activate the central locking system the locks go down and then release. This reaction usually happens when a door is open and you try to lock the door. All other electrical devices on that door are working including the electric window and side view mirror control.
I reckon it could be related to a faulty actuator, which controls the locking mechanism.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks.
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i have just bought a peugeot 306 diesel off ebay for £335, and i have had a similar problem to all of the above. my key has a button on it which i have no idea what it does. if i use my key in the drivers side it only opens the drivers side, but if i use it in the passenger side it sometimes opens all the doors but sometimes dosen't.
if i open and close and slam the passenger door a few times after the central locking not working it will eventually open the rest of the doors. i wouldn't mind not having central locking at all, considering how much i paid for the car, but i can only open the boot when the central locking unlocks it. i can lock the boot with my key, but not unlock it. any ideas?
I own a 1990 H UK Mazda MX5 1.6 which has done 30000 miles and has always been garaged, I have been asking my local dealers the highly technical (?) questions of whether:
i) the cambelt needs replacing
ii) the tensioner needs replacing
iii) whether if the cambelt fails damage will result
I have read elsewhere that the engine is 'non-interference' i.e. if the cambelt fails all that happens is the car breaks down and no damage is done to the valves etc...
Does anyone out there know categorically the answer to the above
questions
many thanks
Ian Read more
wot a tossa, I know where the words cranky old b****** come from now!
Stu
My sister and her husband have had a second baby, and thoughts are turning to a people carrier. They're keen on a VW Sharan, but I've been told that the Galaxy and Alhambra are the same vehicle, only cheaper.
Has anyone any thoughts or experiences on comparative build quality between the three vehicles? Read more
Is there any difference between Sharan's 4Motion and
Alhambra's 4TotalTraction ?
Thanks for any clarification.
Tomas
Hello Folks,
I have seen a gadget advertised called a "Gator Grip" socket.
It is basically a socket filled with what look like rollers out of a needle roller bearing.
They claim to grip worn nuts and bolts, however badly "rounded off".
Has anyone used one to any good effect? Or is it yet another gadget?
(has anyone seen my pipe wrench and stillsons?)
rg Read more
Any idea where these are on sale, and a guide price?
Found another supplier while channel hopping on Sky earlier:-
www.thanedirect.co.uk/products/diy/smartwrench/sma...p
Bit pricer though. £29:95
I have Peugeot 306 XSI P-reg 96', for some reason the car seems to cut out when I release the accelerator pedal or when I change gears or approach a junction. I can manage to keep the car on if I keep accelerating, if I leave the car off for about 10 minutes or so she's fine. This problem only occurs about once a month, I found from other sources that it may be related to the stepper motor, but I have no idea what it does or where it is.
This is becoming quite a worry, because I don't want it cutting out in awkward situation.
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Stepper motor failure on these doesn't log a fault code in the ECU which means diagnostic machines are useless This is one of those faults that you can't pinpoint by plugging in a machine - you have to get your hands dirty. There is (almost certainly) nothing wrong with your ECU.
As mentioned before these stepper motors can be cleaned and freed off with varying degrees of success. My 306 was a nightmare when this was going on. It often wouldn't start from cold, would stall at random, and the revs would "bounce" all over the place. It would also randomly accelerate by itself when driving slowly in traffic on a trailing throttle.
My stepper motor was cleaned up and refitted, and was still fine when I'd finished with the car tens of thousands of miles later.
Hi I'm new to this board, so treat me lightly if I'm posting in the wrong forum.
The question I have is that I'm looking at a Mercedes E class estate, and would like to know what mileage I can expect them to run until. Obviously it will depend on past, as well as future, servicing, but all things being equal when should I expect things to start getting too expensive to be practical to keep running (150K, 200K, etc etc.). I've heard stories of 300K, 500K but I don't really think it would be cost effective to keep them on the road that long as everything must have been replaced by that point (although I'm happy to be told I'm wrong)
Any info, links, stories, etc are greatly appreciated.
P.S. Congratulations on a good site and active boards Read more
Collos25 - I'm starting to think that you're either a professional wind-up merchant or just a plain forum troll. You pop up all the time berating other people, telling them how stupid they are and how you know best, have the true facts etc etc. Perhaps re-read some of your own comments and see how stupid you are, at times. If you want to be picky, I never said the 611 was a bad engine, only that the 646 was a BETTER engine. Go on, tell us again how MB never had an issue with the Valeo rads and how regular servicing would have prevented such issues.
Some of the people on this forum actually want to help people and when they reply, you can tell they know their stuff. You are not one of those people....
I know that the general opinion is against engine oil additives, but what about gearbox oil additives? It seems that gearbox oil doesn't get much technological advancement.
Could something like Slick work on a gearbox? (Peugeot/Citroen MA gearbox)
Cheers Read more
Steer clear of additives, as stated synchro may not like it. Try one of the high quality fully synthetic oils if you're changing it. I use Torco Fully Synth MTF in my Rover box. Red Line, Castrol and others also do FS gearbox oils. If you can't find any locally try www.demon-tweeks.co.uk
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This differs from what I have been told, new gen updates have at various times been introduced first on the Jag or the Mondeo, the first X-Type 2.0d was a generation ahead of the Mondeo for a while and was more problematic for it until the bugs were ironed out, Jag dealers at the time did not have the knowledge and often sent the cars to the Ford dealer. Perhaps your 2.2 X-Type is on a different level from the 2.2 Mondeo you mention.
I remember a roadtest claiming that the Jag was "so much more refined than the Mondeo it is based on" though it transpired that they were comparing it with a TDDi not a TDCi.