November 2002

Dudley

I've the 1.8 Peugeot engine in my Turbo Rover 218 & I'm about to change the timing belt - do I need to change the tensioner as a matter of course?

Also, I want to deal with a noisy tappet. Some folks tell me they are hydraulic whereas my Haynes say I'm in for hours of measuring and shim replacements. Any advice please, such as do I just ignore the rattles and avoid a difficult job?! Read more

Relph G

Sorry to pick up this thread again after such a long period.

I to had the same sort of problem with a tapping noise with my Citroen Xantix, discribed exactly as you said. I measured tappet/cam clearances and all was fine. Checked for exhust leaks, and for a lose pully bolt and could not find out where the noise was coming from. After running for a month with the same noise (and getting fed up with it) I decided to replace the head as after inspection one of the journals on the head looked a bit suspect.

On locking off the engine for the removal of the timing belt I noticed that the belt had slipt at one point in the past and the cam was one tooth out of sync with the rest of the engine. I just re-timed the engine and the noise disapeared.

hope this is of help to any one, as I myself looked for a solution for this problem on many sites and trying all that was sugested before I found out what cause my particular problem.

R

Question car novice
manymanythanks

I have an 1998 Ford Escort AUTOMATIC done 40,000 miles and I must admit it has so far given no major problems. Recently when I start it first time in the morning,it starts quickly but as soon as I try changing to 'Reverse' or 'Drive',it switches off. If I leave it to warm up for a few minutes in 'Park',it is OK. Any help greatly appreciated, as I am planning to take it to the garage!
Thanks again Read more

manymanythanks

Thankyou Dave, I will take it to a garage.

LHM

Although the thorny subject of 'undertaking' has been tackled many a time and oft on this forum, what are peoples' views on when traffic can be deemed to be "moving in queues"?

I commute up and down the A14 between Huntingdon and Cambridge and am reasonably content to live 'life in the slow lane', having reached the conclusion that using lane 2 (of 2) gains an extra 1mph average speed at the expense of serious risk to life and limb :-(

At peak times, the traffic flow assumes three modes: a)stationary, b)both lanes full and moving at roughly the same speed c) nose-to-tail traffic in lane 2 - moving at 40-50mph - passing lorries in lane 1 spaced ¼ of a mile apart.

So, when traffic is moving as in b), I assume that it's moving 'in queues' and that therefore drifting ahead in lane 1 is OK. Seems fair enough.

My question is: what about c)?? If you go tootling past on the inside for ¼ of a mile, are you asking for trouble? Is this strictly speaking an offence in itself, quite apart from the danger involved? Is the real problem the drivers in lane 1 not closing up sufficiently, or drivers in lane 2 not moving back promptly (afraid of being 'boxed in'?)?

This happens very frequently, and must effectively reduce the road capacity by 30-40% - exacerbating an already acute congestion problem. Read more

Dynamic Dave

(OK I pinched it from a Manual Toad threw out)


Talking of the little green reptilian Budwieser lover, where is he the last couple of days? He's not still tinkering with his new toy (Rover) - surely?

Toad, come out from wherever you are and give us a p a r p, p a r p :o)
Carmad 10000

Hi,

Thanks for looking at this.

At the moment my dad drives an E36 BMW M3 Evo, however he is considering changing it for a 1997+ M5. How much are these cars currently going for and how much cheaper will they be in a years time? - i.e. is it worth waiting a year to take advantage of depreciation?

I read somewhere that a 2001 M5 went for under £30k 2 months ago - this is seriously cheap for what they are and why is there such a hit on them? Read more

Pete

Re, 89/90 Polo 1.0 with Bosch Mono-Jetronic SPI system.
Can anyone please advise the Bosch part number of the ECU on this vehicle ?
Thank you, Pete, petel@clara.co.uk Read more

kev the rev

ford fiesta 1.1 cfi ( k reg 80k ) cold start problem.
car starts & runs for 5 to 10 secs and dies then refuses to start. only way to solve is a tow then runs perfectly. warm start no problem. car has been checked by local garage 3 times and computer faults rectified ie. new lamdba & mass air sensors fitted. garage now at a loss to solve. once running engine never misfires and never hesitates even when cold. someone must know the answer, but who?

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547HEW

On the face of it a very elegant mod.

When the coolant is cold, a 47K resistor in parallel with this ECT sensor makes the ECU think the coolant is at 15 deg C, and gives less cold start enrichment than it would at say 0 deg C. When the coolant actually gets to 15 deg C, the ECU will think the coolant temp. is around 30 deg C. The difference diminishes as the coolant temp increases, such that at 80 deg C actual coolant temp, the ECU thinks its 83 deg C. Thus giving a bit more overheat protection as well.

IMHO Very elegant indeed.


I think the original calibrator should be quite embarrassed!

Rita

Venue - sister-in-law’s. Present - me, older sister and sister-in-law. Subject of discussion – how to get from sister-in-law’s to another sister’s house some 20 minutes drive away. Object of a rather heated discussion – which was the easiest route to said sister’s abode.

I didn’t involve myself in the ¾ hour debate as I can’t read maps (responsibility for which I place entirely on the shoulders of Sister Dominic at the Convent who so castigated me for showing on a contour map a river flowing uphill that I suffer permanent retardation where all matters geographical are concerned. I am now of the ilk that tends to go three times around roundabouts, exits and then knocks at the first available house and asks “which the right road to where-ever”. I know that I can get from ‘here to there’ and back again but am never sure how to get to ‘there from there’.

Agreement as to route not having been decided, sister and I thought that that we would wing it (3 times around a roundabout etc) etc. and began our little sojourn. Within two minutes of leaving the house three oncoming vehicles flashed me. Checked that I had my headlights were on (it was just coming up to dusk). Everything seemed A-OK. Two more cars flashed me. Decided to turn into a side street, park and take stock.

I kicked all four tyres. They seemed alright – not obviously flat. Checked lights were on – yup, no problem. Bit of a worry as to reason for being flashed as nothing obviously wrong. Decided to retrace steps to brother. Phoned him on mobile and asked him to stay out front to watch for my approach to see if he could spot anything. Pulled up at his house. Wound window down – him grinning like a Cheshire cat. “Your full beam is on”. “Eh, says I, can’t be”. It was then that I realised that I didn’t even know how to turn on/off the full beam. He checked the beam. He was right. Showed me how to turn the beam on and off. Much laughter all round. Stress levels now high. Decided to abort trip and return to accompanying sister’s house and relax with a couple of stiff wines that necessitated an overnight stay.

On later sober reflection as to why I hadn’t known something so elementary as to how to put on/cancel the full beam I can only conclude that up that point I haven’t had to use that function on my current car. Perhaps the ‘I’ll learn it when I need to’ syndrome came into play. I still don’t know how the lights came to be on main beam in the first place.

Whilst there may never be a dull moment, there is ALWAYS a D’oh moment and I am usually the one experiencing it.

I surely can’t be unique in this regard tho’, can I ?



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slefLX

I remember seeing one in a discount bookshop a few years ago but didn't buy it as i wasn't driving at the time so it seemed unnessecary - i wish now i had bought it, could become a collector's item in a few years ;o)

JL

I am intrigued by, but know little about, the high speed valve system used on current FI cars. I understand that they are powered using pneumatics and presumably this operation will also be desmodromic.

With engine peak rpm in the order of 13K plus the loads on the system will certainly be demanding.

Any background on the above would be welcome.

Julian Lindley
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547HEW

Didnt see an answer to the following, so here goes:-

"
Surely current large capacity multi cylinder motorcycle engines have demonstrated the potential for high revs with conventional valves."

F1 engine cyclinder size is limited to 350cc if a 10 cyl engine, and 292cc if a 12 cyl (this is max no of cyls I understand to be currently allowed). As the designers are stuck with getting max power, the only way is to up the rated speed and reduce internal friction.

So by large capacity racing m/c engines, I assume we are talking about a 4 cyl 1000 cc machine, where cylinder size is 250cc. I understand these operate up to similar (14,000 rpm), and indeed use conventional valve actuation. The valves are smaller, and thus reciprocating forces less. Going to the 15000 to 17000 rpm that I believe F1 use, would present them with some interesting challnges.

Dude - {P}

My son is thinking of buying an Omega with the 2.2 chain cam engine to cover approx 35k miles yearly.
With all the recent adverse press reports(JD Power & Auto Express) on G.M. reliability, I would appreciate any comments from backroomers with experience of this model. I have looked on H.J`s car x car breakdown for this model which gives a conflicting picture - came 3rd from top in the Which 2002 survey and 8th from the bottom in the Auto Express 2002 report.
Any comments and advice would be much appreciated. Read more

rg

Plenty in the archive about Omegas.

I considered a 2.5TD estate at length before buying a Citroen XM. Basically a classy car for daft money, bags of room, long-legged cruising.

Key issues that put me off Omega:

1/ IMHO not many independent specialists who know them.

2/ Main dealers? £20 just to breathe in at the service reception desk.("well sir, it does cost us to run the building's air conditioning"). Plus workshop lads who have not started shaving and can't reach the pedals.

3/ Hints of tracking, PAS and electrical problems that cost a lot to sort out. See point 1/. Various stuff in the archive about this.

Compare with Citroen where there are plenty of good independents, and lots of knowledge "out there". Sure, everything breaks down sometime, and the more complex cars are these days, the more it costs to sort, and less chance of fixing with a jubilee clip, hammer and screwdriver. But it depends on what's around to help you.

HTH
good hunting

rg

Carmad 10000

Hi,

I have been looking round some sites for a new mini and got a quote on each for the following:

MINI One
Salt Pack
15inch alloys
Chrome bumpers
TLC Pack

so far these are my figures:

Drive the deal - terrible £6.50 saving!!!!!

micronetshowroom - £850 saving but without TLC and is an import so probably around £300 saving

UK Car Broker does not have it on their website but im not sure it will be any better....


So far i aint having much luck! - im still tempted by micronet as i plan to keep the car for some time so resale wont be an issue. But the TLC pack is good value on UK cars...

If you know of any better deals elsewhere - i.e. what a dealer should give off (if anything!!) or of any websites PLEASE leave a message!

cheers

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Steve G

Trade Sales (Slough) had some Coopers when i visited on thursday. Might be worth a phone call to see if any ONES are in stock or due in.
Just an Idea.... Try asking some BMW dealers if their demonstrators are up for sale. These are usually well specced and you might get a little off the list price.