November 2002
As a rough idea after how long (time or miles) should spark plugs be changed?
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Hi all,
I've just borrowed a car that has the fuel consumption displayed in L/100Miles.
What number do I multiply or divide by to display MPG?
Thanks in anticipation ....
Regards ..... Robert Read more
This site might help:-
www.onlineconversion.com/
Hi there,
Anyone know how to tackle an airbag light that won't go off? I'm guessing this is a main dealer job? Any chance I'm going to be out of pocket big time?
It's a 1999 T reg Astra 1.7 TD estate 65k, FSH.
Ta. Microbike. Read more
I had exactly the same problem with my 1997 Vectra, and the time it was only 3 months old. The local Vauxhall dealer plugged it into their diagnostic equipment (I believe) and pronounced the car needed a new ECU. This was fitted and the light caused no further problems.
2 Years later I was loaned as a courtesy car (one of the service staff's 'S Plated' Tigra) with the same problem, the member of staff seemed very surpised when I suggested it might be the ECU, he confirmed this was the case, they had the replacement ready,but hadn't get around to fitting it yet!
Sorry to be the pessimistic but your problem could be the ECU, but as Dynamic Dave says your first action needs to be a Vauxhall diagnostic test.
Last time I changed the oil on my omega I was disconcerted to find that the sump plug was worryingly tight to replace . So much so that I removed it to check for thread damage . not finding any I screwed it back in and hoped it was just a really tight fit or a taper thread or something . As the plug remained in place and oil tight i wondered if it might be best to leave well alone and change the oil via a dip stick syphon device that I remember seeing somewhere , but the tone of a reply to a previous query on the back room intimated that these things or this method was in some way inferior to draining the sump via the plug . Maybe it was (i.i.r.c) the ad for said device featured a pretty young lady changing the oil and wearing her best frock and also a pair of white gloves , never mentioned the filter though . any comments anyone ?
thanks , mike. Read more
Removal via dip stick hole is now the method approved by MB for oil changes (IIRC they intend not to fit sump plugs on new models)
To check the difference, suck out all the oil, then open up the sump plug to see how much you miss - do I search on google. IIRC there is little difference
Does anyone have any favourite examples of good or bad car design? My least favourite one at the moment is the design of the fog light controls on my Saab 9000. There are separate buttons for front and back lights. Why would anyone ever want to turn on one without the other? On top of that, one button pushes in and lights up a dashboard indicator, whereas the other button lights itself up and returns to its former position. To see whether this light is on it is then necessary to look at the button, which is of course nicely hidden by a combination of the steering wheel, wiper stalk and my right arm. Finally, when the engine is switched off, this second button turns itself off, while the other one stays on for next time! Can anyone beat that lot for design hopelessness? Read more
>> Not sure if any of my cars have
had
>> this as I've never experienced one overheating! The fan kicking
in
>> usually gives you a bit of a warning though.
>>
Not much help if fan failure is the cause of the
overheating though.
Nor if a leak drops the coolant level below that of the switch.
I recently purchased a 96 Golf vr6, and so far it has been brilliant, but one concern....
If you accelerate from below 2000 rpm in any gear, the car hestitates a little and jerks (misfire?), but above 2000 rpm all is fine. I am using 95 RON unleaded, could this be it? Or could it be the plugs? Any ideas out there? Read more
My 96 VR6 runs very sweetly and always has. At 30k it is still on its original spark plugs and other electricals. With apologies for repeating what I often say when such problems are posted, I always use VAG's own fuel additive (part number G 001 700 03) and Shell fuel. After playing with Optimax for a while, I reverted to the ordinary stuff, having detected no significant difference in consumption or performance.
Hi,
I have seen some previous postings concerning the current woeful state of the Mercedes paint finishes and unfortuanately I maybe setting out a well trodden path.
I currently own a Mercedes E320 CDI Estate, W reg 2.5 years old, which has numerous stone chips with 'spiders leg' type corrosion under the silver metallic paint, I previously had an H reg E Class saloon with no such problem. I was wondering if anyone else had experienced a similar pattern of corrosion?
I thought that quality cars were galvanised dipped hence I was considering having a report written on the bodywork finish by a specialist company. Could anyone please advise, from their own experience whether this is the best way forward and if so perhaps recommend a reputable company, preferably in the North West so I may pursue the matter further with Mercedes.
Any help or comments gratefully received.
David.
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My W reg E320 CDI Estate is only just begining to show rust around the rear wheel arches and on top of one of the rear doors, must have got a good un. It's only got 68k on the clock so going to get the rust fixed and run it for another 100k, great car. I used to have a X-reg Focus 2.0l Ghia and that had chips all over but no signs of rust at all, another great car.
Have experienced yet another example of someone approaching a roundabout in the wrong lane to save maybe one minute and expecting to drift to the left into the lane they wanted all along when 3/4 of the way through.
The car in this case was an old silver LS400. He saw fit to lean on his horn when I had the temerity not to slam my breaks on, cause an accident and let him in.
One hand signal later (from me, yes - I should'nt have less than two hands on the wheel) I'm on my way.
The silver house brick zooms past me far too quickly on his way into (presumably) Slough with a much aggrieved expression on his face and no doubt the intention to do exactly the same thing tomorrow.
What is it with these people???? Read more
Now I know why I avoid motorways!
HF
I have an R reg nissan micra which, if I haven't driven it for 2 days or so, refuses to start. It's turning over but not catching. Doesn't seem to be dampness or battery as this has been happening in summer also. Anything to do with fuel tube?
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I don't suppose it's something stupid like a loose fan belt. they squeek/squeal when you put your lights on because there is more effort required from the alternator. I suppose a chirping noise could be the same sound as a short squeal. Open the bonnet and push it with your finger. It should be tight. If not get it tightened. Should cost £5 cash to a moron at kwikfit.
Wonder if you can help? I've got an 89f mk2 Golf GTi with 106k miles which for 2 years has been totally reliable.
It's due a service & cam belt change, but has recently started to sound "clattery", as if the camshaft was worn.
Thing is it only does it intermittently, especially when cold or idling - tho' not always. The oil level is fine & it doesn't burn or use any. Still runs well too.
Any ideas what's wrong?
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Well, what a lively - if circular - debate.
If anyone still cares, I've had my Golf serviced now. Cambelt tensioner had seized and the belt was in a very dodgy state.
The cam thingys (I daren't call them by name - which would I use without offending someone) were inspected & seemed OK.
The car's now running quietly & got a years MOT, so I'm happy.
Thanks everyone Mickje
It's well worth reading the torque setting info as per the link below :
http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/technical/torque-setting.htm