November 2002
My Corsa (1.7 diesel, 50K miles) has a clutch pedal which disengages at only a small distance off the floor, in other words it has to be pushed down almost as far as it will go before dis-engaging. In fact, before I last brought it in I had to make sure that the thin rubber mat was completely drawn back so I could engage gear without a crunch. The garage mechanic(it was formerly a Vauxhall agency) says that this is typical of Corsas and could only readjust it marginally. He didn't think that it had stretched. Has anyone had a similar Corsa clutch? Thanks. Read more
I'm remodelling my garage which includes the provision of a higher entrance and I liked the idea of a remotely operated door.
It seemed to me that a sectional door was a better engineered job than the cheaper roller door.
Does anyone in HJ-land have any experience of either type and, importantly, of any suppliers of door or electric operator which have given good service or, alternatively, have been a complete pain? Read more
Another free-loader.
This is a follow up to an earlier post regarding VW505.01 oil.
It only applies tdi pd engines that require fixed 10,000 mile servicing - or so I was told.
I spent ages today on the phone to numerous SEAT dealers, VW dealers, SEAT HQ, VW HQ, Castrol and Millers. The bottom line is total confusion everywhere.
I rang 12 SEAT dealers - all but one (I'll come back to which one)said that VW 505.01 must be (and is)used. Half of those said that this oil is only available in fully synthetic form. The others said its available in both synthetic and part-synthetic form. One said it is mineral oil. But, all stressed that VW505.01 MUST be used. The same applied to the 6 VW dealers I rang. All said that they use VAG sourced oil. This includes the SEAT used Quantum brand (I think this is supplied by Castrol). The VW dealers I spoke to use Castrol. Both HQ's confirmed that 505.01 MUST be used. VW said synthetic must be used, SEAT said "don't know".
I also rang Castrol's technical department and spent about 20 mins chatting with a very helpful guy who explained why this oil must be used. Basically, the camshaft driven injector pumps run at an extremely higher pressure on pump dusse TDi engines than they do on the 'older' design TDi's, and therefore require an oil that will offer a far higher degree of sheer(breakdown)resistance. The VW 501.01 (or higher)spec oils offer this and oils that fail to meet this spec must not be used. He even went as far as to say that engines run on non 505.01 spec oil are a time bomb waiting to go off and WILL be damaged (what!!!). He also said that 505.01 is only availble in synthetic form.
Millers now do an oil that meets the 505.01 spec. It's called XFE PD, but strangely, it's part synthetic and retails for about £20.00.
The SEAT dealer who didn't follow suit with the others was the one who's serviced my car (it would be wouldn't it). They told me that in my car (Arosa 1.4 tdi pd)they used Castrol magnatec. I was told I could use 505.01 but it wasn't neccessary. They also said that a leasing company who uses them to service their Alhambra's won't pay the extra cost for 505.01, so magnatec is also used for those as well. As a side note, the price quoted for 505.01 at all the dealers I spoke to was no more than the price my dealer quoted for magnatec.
This evening I went to the dealer where I purchased my car. They are part of the same group as the dealer who originally supplied and serviced it for the first owner. The car was transfered to them for my purchase.(Incidentley, the dealer I purchased the car from uses the correct oil). I spoke to the General Manager and explained the above re. the use of magnatec. He spoke to the service manager at the dealer who's done the servicing to find out what oil had been used. Although he was aware that 505.01 should be used for PD engines he thought that the 1.4 tdi pd was a non pump dusse engine. He checked the engine code which confirmed it was in fact a pd. He then confirmed that magnatec had been used on both the 10k and 20k service. (Great!!).
As a result, these are the options I've been offered:
1.An oil cange to the correct oil and a free 4th year warranty.
2.A full refund of my money.
3.A brand new car, and I pay the difference.
4.Try to locate another used car of same price, age, mileage etc.
Option 4, apparently, is as likely as finding rocking horse s***, as used 1.4 tdi's are very rare. Option 3 will cost me loads, option 2 leaves me with no car and loads of hassle, option one leaves my with doubt and worry (I planned on keeping this car for a few years).
So there you have it. Sorry about the length of this post,but I feel people ought to be aware of the confusion and the importance of making sure the correct oil is used in your car.
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Like everyone else I'm thoroughly fed up and confused over this debate about VW pdi oils. I've religously used 505.01 Valvoline and Millers oils in 5 VAG pdi cars over the last few years. However, has anyone, anywhere, a record of engine problems caused by the use of the wrong spec oil in these cars?
The only good thing about all this is that it's now possible to buy 505.01 oils at 'sensible' prices. In the early days of pdi engines you had to buy it at a VAG dealer at about £9 litre.
Can anyone tell me at what point/mileage the timing chain should be renewed. VW do specify checking or replacing it on the service book. Also does anyone know anything about rechipping the engine? ie how much? can it be done as simply as unplug the old chip and plug in the new one? Read more
Timing chains are usual for 100k miles to be changed.
Shrick manifolds are £800 and above if bought from eBay or car websites....
I have an L reg citroen ZX 1.9 diesel and after driving for about 5 minutes the engine oile temperature guage gradually sneaks up to the red. In addition, NO heat is coming out of the air fan heaters for the inside of the car.
I've checked that there is enough oil in the engine, and enough water in the radiator and there is. The radiatior gets warm when the engine first starts, and all the pipes too and from it get warm as the engine heats up, but once it gets into the top end of the temperature scale, the radiator gets very cold (fans come on too, but I'd expect a little residual heat in there coming off from the cooling fans?) The big pipe at the top of the radiator gets VERY hot and the other pipe on the other side that comes into the bottom (on the side where you pour the water in the radiator) just goes cold.
I guess its blocked, but I cannot work out where or how, does anyone have any clues at all please?
A Read more
hi all
ive had this same problem with my zx.
as above and water being pushed out the header tank by large amounts of air.
new head gasket has sorted it.
veggie
1992 Vauxhall Astra 1.4I 8v SOHC (1992 110,000 miles)
Hi – new to the forum so please go gentle with me. I am not a professional mechanic and do DIY through necessity not enjoyment and consider myself reasonably competent although this little tale may prove the undoing of that!
The above car has been in the family seven years and has just been handed back by No.1 son – it has seen him through university and he wants a proper car! Needless to say he has not really looked after and No.1 daughter who is 17 in January is the next candidate ‘owner’.
On initial running checks noticed engine running cold as indicated by dash temperature gauge. Verified with infra red thermometer that gauge was accurate and engine was indeed running cold – and therefore diagnosed thermostat as duff. Consulted Haynes manual (my only source of technical reference) and the dawning realisation that this was not going to be a 30 minute job (took me less than this on my W124 Merc). Purchased the stuff – thermostat, new cam belt, cam cover cork gasket and a water pump setting tool !!!!. Completed job after also changing water pump and the back hose because I thought I have gone this far – I do not want to be going here again soon!
Had a bit of fun (not) farting about getting the cambelt tension correct and got the whole lot together after also changing engine oil/filter and recharging coolant circuit with 50/50 antifreeze mix.
Engine turned over fine by hand without resistance (turned over many times while doing belt tension). Attempted start – engine cranked but did not fire!! (Eeek).
Turned engine over by hand so that camshaft at TDC for No1 power stroke – checked timing back on crankshaft pinion – Eeek crankshaft pinion was 1 or 2 teeth retarded. I do not know how the hell this happened I thought I had been scrupulously careful. I obviously had suffered a brain fart or something.
I have now reset the engine timing to spec. However engine cranks but does not fire.
Now it may be that this is a coincidence and something unrelated to the work carried out may be the cause and I will now investigate the obvious. Clearly my worry is that even with such a small error in engine timing I may have clattered the valves into the pistons even though there was no resistance when turning by hand.
I would like to avoid lifting the head for obvious reasons – is it worth doing a compression test?
I would be grateful for any technical advice and or opinions (Yes I know I’m a dumb ****). I am having a real crisis of confidence here. (Should I also replace the tensioner pulley assembly?).
Very many thanks in advance –this is a really great forum.
NormanB
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Hello to everyone - A fine day at last!
Finally got around to getting to grips with the starting problem (post thermostat, water pump and cambelt change) and I wanted to close the loop with you all, especially all of those who offered me such sage advice.
What you all forgot was that you were dealing with an idiot!
Yes - I had spark and I had fuel but due to a major brain fart I had put the HT leads on with the correct firing order but counter to the normal direction of rotation! I really do not know what I had been thinking - what a t***!!
Anyway engine is now running as sweet as a nut, once engine had reached operating temperature, I left it running to prove electric cooling fan operation - all OK.
I then revisited the compression test with the engine hot - results as follows:
1 10.5 Bar
2 9.8 Bar
3 10.0 Bar
4 10.0 Bar
This would appear to be perfectly within specification and No 3 is no longer under suspicion. The conclusion is that doing a compression test while cold can only tell you state of valves/head/head gasket.
Once again thanks to you all for your help - this forum is a really super resource.
With the cold weather coming, what oil should I use for the door locks? WD40, 3 in 1 or grease? Read more
Hhhhmmmm.... not convinced. Sorry, but you won't ever catch me putting waxoyl into locks. If I ever get the chance though, I'll set up some long term tests to see if it works.
HJ
Didn't BBC Watchdog do something on the MINI alarm system a little time ago?.....
[Later] Yes, I did a search and found
www.bbc.co.uk/watchdog/reports/transport/index2.sh...9
not the same problem but obviously the remote on the MINI has some interesting "features".
HTH
Terry Read more
You're all barking up the wrong tree.
Remember Mini TV ads? Mini saves the world....the end?
Just like any good soldier, it's saluting you.
For years I have always thought "one of theses days a another car is going to smack mine off" and you know what? They have! Not only that they don't even stop to say sorry. I guess the problem is that it's very difficult to prove who was at fault if anyone.
My particular circumstance was that as I was driving down the road when a car comming the other way decides to go around a car that was parked in thier path thus moving onto my side of the road and as they do so we collide wing mirror to wing mirror.
Has anyone had any luck getting someone else to pay or is this part of the everyday risk we take when motoring?
Theses days electric wing mirrors can be expensive.
PS anyone know where I can get a drivers wing mirror for a Mazda 323 (95) .
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Could it be the Roundabout for Didsbury road?
Nope, I'm referring to the Armoury roundabout in Edgeley, but the Pyramid roundabout (which I think you are referring to?) can be just as bad, especially when it can be almost impossible to get on to this sometimes so you have to take any gap on offer...
My mother in law's Punto 1.0 Selecta SX (1996 'N' plate) has had a problem with a stuck 'gear selector' which was fixed some time ago. She has recently experienced some juddering/lack of power on 2-3 occasions when driving, with an accompanying 'transmission' warning light which goes off after several minutes.
Does anyone know what the cause may be, whether these faults could be linked and whether or not urgent attention is required ?
I seem to remember reading/hearing something about this but can't remember where and the Car Breakdown section doesn't give much information.
Any feedback very gratefully received :-) Read more
Volvoman
try this www.fedauto.co.uk
the opening page gives you a membership list and if there is one nearby your MIL I suggest you give them a ring and ask their advice.
I think there may also be a link from this site as well.
Usually ordinary garages just do not have the expertise to either diagnose or rectify auto problems. If they take a job on nearly everytime they will push the job out to one of the f.a.t.e people and add 50% mark up on to the bill.
HtH Phil I
Gentlemen, my thanks to those who've replied - not being a DIYer I've forwarded the file to the garage mechanic who has worked on the car.