October 2002
Please forgive this off topic post. I will certainly not object if it's removed.
However it's probably useful from car insurance perspective too because the principples will be the same.
I just bought some house insurance.
They started the policy with 5 years NCD even though I only have 1.
I called to tell them their mistake and a girl who's name I have, told me that I would be give the NCD as a good will gesture and that she had noted this on my file. I asked for confirmation by fax.
The fax has come from another Customer Service manager and simply states that "the policy has been issued with 5 years NCD".
The implication is that "the policy has been issued with 5 years NCD despite the face you haven't got 5 years NCD" but it isn't explicitly noted in writing.
I don't want to bother these poeople all day. I've got names and times of phone calls.
If a speeding motorist [1] hit's my house, am I covered?
[1] ;-)
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These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more
Dear all,
Is there a Nissan QX website in UK? (like the www.fordscorpio.co.uk one) I have just bought the car and I would like to know more about it.
Also, is there a Haynes/Chilton/Porters/Bentley repair manual for it? I know it is a rare car but I am hoping if anyone knows about these cars.
Thank you very much.
Garrison Read more
Having done 500 miles, there is nothing wrong with the car. There is some road rumble but it is not as bad as the Scorpio I regularly travel in. The fact that the engine and suspension are very quiet make you think the road noise is bad. There is not a lot of noise difference between 20mph and 70mph is good. The engine is very powerful at low rpm which also gives good economy. I got 32mpg in a mixture is stationary travel in town and 70mph highway is about 10-15% worse than the 1.8 Mondeo I had.
Best,
Garrison
I have £600 to £1000 to spend on a cheap Automatic car for my partners business. I know this is not alot, but can anyone recommend a good reliable mid to large family car? (as she has to ferry kids around, school runs and day trips mostly!). I was thinking along the lines of either a Volvo 440 or maybe somthing else of similar size. Thanks. Read more
Would recommend the MK 2 GOLF as being a reliable car and having a reliable autobox. However, your price range is something of a minefield and in addition to the normal mechanical checks you would make, for a mk2 golf you should also check:
that there are no leaks from doors
that the heater works
that all dashboard lights work
that the carb isn't knackered (pierburg 2e2 - useless from cold )
I speak from experience as I got shot of mine 6 months ago with all these problems, and 135 k on the clock (to the dealer in the sky - no unsuspecting buyer!!) but would still have another.
You should also try for power steering unless SWMBO has arms like popeye.
Happy Hunting
Car is a mates K plate Fiesta 1.3.
The RHS indicator is fine.
The LHS clicks into place, and you can hear the relay going double time, but there is no indication on the dashboard and none of the lights work.
It's the relay has been replaced ? this made no difference. The same relay works hazards and indicators.
It's not the bulbs, all work when with the hazard warning.
When it first happened it was intermittent, then as it got worse it could be made to work by hitting the indicator hard. Now it's given up the ghost altogether! To me that would
kind of suggest that it's a problem in the column itself.
However if the relay can be heard working (the hazards work and they work of the same relay) how can the problem be ?upstream? of the relay?
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These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more
My thanks go out to Toad & friends ....
Your various responses confirmed my initial diagnosis ... should have had the courage of my own convictions, but I'm still a novice at this car fixing lark! ;-)
Anyway ... as my warty friend explained ... I purchased a secondhand MFU, replaced in the blink of an eye ... without breaking a nail I may add ... and Bob's your uncle!
-----> D.B.<-----
can any one give me any ideas as to what is causing my volvo 740 2.3 auto matic to judder when i select Drive??
it only judders when the car is stationary and is worse when the engine is cold. when i increase the revs with the accelarator to around 900rpm (whilst still stationary) the judder stops but the car pulls on the brakes.
can anyone give me any advice as to what is causing this.
Cheers.. MG Read more
My neighbour is having bad probs with their Y reg petrol Voyager. She has had to change the gearbox twice in a year (lucky that it is still under warranty). Car by car breakdown says that it is the diesels that have dodgy boxes but does this apply to the petrol ones as well?
If the gearbox has gone twice already, is the best advice for her to sell it before it comes out from warranty, take the financial hit and put it down as a bad experience? Read more
Only two boxes she is lucky and yes they are the same,the number of 1 year old second hand ones for sale in Germany seems to me that they are best got rid of.The 4x4 version now there is a mechanics nightmare.If the Kia people carrier is avalable in the UK it is a far better buy especially in diesel form
As some of the regulars will know, I'm a Saab man & I currently have a 9-5 which has been chipped from 150 to 192bhp. No problems there. I am now looking at options for improving the handling. What I want to do is improve body control, reduce high speed float, retain a good ride as much as possible. I do not want a sports car, but what I do want is a car that feels sharper on the road, can safely be driven fast on winding A & B roads but is still comfortable - I am 49 after all! I spend a lot of time on motorways, and have found that on long sweeping bends, the car is a shade underdamped.
Having done a bit of research, there are two basic setups that seem to be appropiate. I'd be interested in comments from fellow backroomers before I start serious discussions with the vendors - as the two options would potentially come from separate suppliers, there will inevitable be some bias in their recommendations.
OK, the two possibilities, which interestingly have very similar costs, are:
1. Fit uprated shocks, retain standard springs, fit uprated anti-roll bars front & rear;
2. Fit uprated springs & shocks, retain standard anti-roll bars.
The car currently runs on the standard 205/65VR15 tyres on steel wheels - my plan is to upgrade these to alloys but retain the 15" diameter for comfort - I'm willing to trade ultimate roadholding for comfort, they are pretty good as they are. Saab UK have already confirmed these are OK when used with the genuine Saab suspension upgrade.
It might be relevant to note, as an example of my personal taste, that when I was given a lift in an old BMW 3-series coupe a few years ago that I found the ride uncomfortably firm over some of our local roads.
I know that there are other combinations (e.g. option 2 AND the anti-roll bars) but this might be over the top for my needs.
Over to you my friends for what I know will be useful and pertinent comments. If I've missed a trick & someone has other ideas, please let me know! Read more
I think you're going to have to sacrifice some comfort for better handling.
I'm riding on ADJUSTABLE Konis, front and rear, and lower springs in a Cav Turbo. They're set pretty tight, so most roads are crashy/thumpy, but the transformed handling's worth it.
With these, you can play about with the settings to find the best compromise.
I have got a split in my Alfa GTV tank where the bottom ribs meet in the dead centre underneath. And you can't buy tanks anymore. Can't find anyone who can weld it - unless anyone knows some one in the Watford or surrounding areas?? There seems to be loads of tank repair kits on the market (the filler type stuff), appreciate hearing from anyone who has tried these and would use same again.
My problem is I think these tank ribs allow the tank to flex, and if the tank flexs after I've put a repair kit on, it will just crack and fall off!!
All advice gratefully received . . . Read more
Try one of these :
www.alfaracing.com
www.aroc-uk.com
Or, have you thought about buying a racing tank and adapting it to fit? Think they're listed in the Demon Tweeks competition catalogue.
Although i drive a petrol car is the any additives to change red diesel to white cause my freind seems to think so Read more
Red diesel does no physical damage to your vehicle. However, it is dyed red because the fuel duty has been reduced for agricultural, off-road use ONLY. To use any fuel on the road, you have to pay the full rate of duty, therefore the full price. Some people try removing the dye with sulphuric acid and selling the result at cheaper than the full pump price of ordinary diesel. This makes it a little harder for the Customs & Excise to spot, but there is still discoloration of the fuel, and in any case the leftover acid will ruin your engine. C&E officials have the right to stop you anywhere and dip your fuel tank to see what you've got in there. They are (as was mentioned recently on another thread) the only law enforcement agents who have the right to enter your premises without a warrant, or any forewarning.
It is possible to buy diesel made from vegetable oil legally, i.e. with all duty paid - look in the FAQs on this site for your nearest supplier. It is also possible to make your own biodiesel from vegetable oil if you know how, and use it illegally with the risk of having your car impounded and a minimum £500 fine for the first offence. Likewise, using red diesel on the road (whether or not the dye has been removed) is also illegal and carries the same penalties.
On Sunday I viewed a Corolla 1.6 R Reg going for £3,150. Private Sale. 66,000 miles. MOT'd in June. Log book all in order. One previous owner. It looked superb inside and out - perfect condition new exhaust. The only catch was no service history - apparently the car was repossessed by a bank hence absence of service history.
I was going to go back tonight to buy it but the HPI search came back with "mileage discrepancy contact HPI". I called them and they gave me the number for the national mileage register. Their records showed...4 escalating entries ending in 126,000 miles based on a DVLA entry of May 2002.
Forget that one I think! Read more
This guy might be a trader as some have suggested but it would'nt surprise me if it a 'genuine' private sale.
In my experience its private sellers who get upto the most devious tricks while most traders will be quite honest about what they are selling.
You say there are four entries on the NMR -strange because you also say its one previous owner. I wonder where NMR got 4 mileage readings from ??
Its time the DVLA printed the previous mileage readings on the V5 , This would stop most clocking.
I could be out 60k if an uninsured yobbo in a Jumbo jet knocked it down!
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These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.