Every evening when I leave work, the drill is the same. 2 minutes wait (maximum) to get onto the main road, 400 yards and a roundabout, then down a slip road onto a very busy dual carriageway where the traffic flow is around 80 mph. So to avoid being rear ended, I'm running my Audi straight up to 80 (approx 3750 rpm) with the engine almost stone cold. I can't help thinking this is bad for it - can anyone reassure me? (Or otherwise.)
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
|
If that is the situation, why not let the engine warm up for a minute or two at a fast idle before driving off?
You can't be in That much of a hurry every night, surely?
|
|
|
|
How many miles/years have you been doing this?
|
Maybe using Castrol Magnatex oil might help, as it allegedly clings to the metal parts so the engine is lubricated OK from cold.
However - I once used Magantex in my Scirocco (it had had fully synthetic since new) and the hydraulic tappets got noisier.
Not sure if the extra noise was down to the oil, but it was a big coincidence at the time...
|
|
|
|
Every evening when I leave work, the drill is the same. 2 minutes wait (maximum) to get onto the main road, 400 yards and a roundabout, then down a slip road onto a very busy dual carriageway where the traffic flow is around 80 mph. So to avoid being rear ended, I'm running my Audi straight up to 80 (approx 3750 rpm) with the engine almost stone cold. I can't help thinking this is bad for it - can anyone reassure me? (Or otherwise.)
Can't reassure you I have the same situation exactly. (Are we neighbours)
My home is less that 45 seconds from the motorway R/B. Within a minute it sees the best part of 5000 revs to get on the roundabout in the fast moving traffic then it's on the motorway slip road which requires some beans.
Once on the motorway I try to stay under 70 until the temp reaches normal but it's been spanked twice by then.
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
|
I don't have this situation every day, but do have an observation to make on the occasions when I have joined a motorway within a minute or so of starting off: My current Vectra GSi, previous SRi, Rover 420GSi before that, and Mundano 1.8 before that ALL suffer(ed) minor wheel wobble at motorway speeds for the first few minutes.
This observation has been made over a number of years, on different roads, some of which I also drive on when everything is 'warmed through', in which case no wobble happens.
I guess it is because the tyres are cold, and the rubber is therefore relatively inflexible.
Has anyone else noticed this?
/Steve
|
|
It might also be because the tyre pressure is not quite right (slightly low) when cold, but is more appropriate as the air warms and pressure increases slightly.
|
|
|
ALL suffer(ed) minor wheel wobble at motorway speeds for the first few minutes. This observation has been made over a number of years, on different roads, some of which I also drive on when everything is 'warmed through', in which case no wobble happens. I guess it is because the tyres are cold, Has anyone else noticed this?
Yes, happens with my Vectra as well. Strange thing is, when you have new tyres fitted, they balance them when they're cold, not hot, so I don't think it's the cold tyres causing the wobble.
|
Yes, happens with my Vectra as well. Strange thing is, when you have new tyres fitted, they balance them when they're cold, not hot, so I don't think it's the cold tyres causing the wobble.
The tyres in the tyre shop haven't been stored with the weight of a car on them overnight.
The tyres on your car will have developed flats overnight, which presumably only fill out when the rubber has been warmed, so maybe that is the explanation.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Use Mobil 1 0-40 oil, cheap at Kwik Fit, or even better buy a diesel.
|
How about an engine pre-heater? See
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=79...5
and similar previous discussions. I've no experience of them & so don't express an opinion.
|
|
|
|
volvo dude, sorry to be so dumb but why wouldnt a diesel be effected the same as a petrol?
|
|
BMDUBYA, I always thought diesels didn't need to warm up like petrol engines before you "thrashed" them - could be wrong. If I am don't buy one of my old diesel cars because I always "thrash" them from cold ( once they are properly run in, of course).
|
My dad's Diesel Avensis has got a whole paragraph on the sunvisor (!) about taking care of a diesel engine and one bit is about not over-revving the engine until it's warmed up.
My Corolla diesel is terrible until it's warmed up. It hardly moves and sounds like an old tank.
|
|
|
|
|
I was gonna suggest that!
Can you not put a better oil in it to help stop that happening? Perhaps Magnatec for Basic engines, I think the Fiesta requires 10W40 but I could be wrong, it might be 15W40. Halfords do the Magnatec fairly cheaply so it might be worth checking the flip chart in there...
|
|
|
|
Richard:
Might I suggest that 3750rpm is hardly thrashing your engine. I am sure you regularly change your oil and filter with good quality items.
We are told that idling is bad for engine wear, surely the best thing is therefore to get using some revs and power, within reason, to get the thing warm.
Can anyone suggest an optimal warm-up cycle?
Andy
|
On large diesel generators the manufacturers are quite specific on the procedure.
With manual connection to the mains system they state that it must be connected immediately and not allowed to run light. Full load should be applied.
They go into the reasons in great detail on their documentation which are that a quick warming up is much more preferable and beneficial to the engine.
When the generator is disconnected from the mains the generator must then be allowed to run light for 15 minutes before turning off.
With the automatic connection type this procedure is also carried out with no input from the operator required.
I presume this must be similar for any engine.
alvin
|
|
|
|
Richard
Not ideal, but I wouldn't worry too much. You do give the engine time to get the oil circulating, and provided the oil is one with a relatively low 'cold' viscosity there's little else you can do.
If you keep it below 4000 revs until it's warm you probably won't do that much extra damage. It's probably better than letting it idle for ages to warm it up as some people do.
Regards
John S
|
Thanks everyone. My departure from work has to be timed to the second: too early and I get rude comments from everyone else, too late and I can't get out of the car park because the road is blocked by stationary traffic. So letting the car idle for a couple of minutes is not an option... I do use good quality Quantum semi-synthetic, changed every 6000 miles, and I have been doing this journey for over a year now and the engine hasn't blown up yet.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
|
|
|
|
You really need to warm up the engine first. Thrashing an engine when cold is the best way to f**k it!
[ ok, you\'re new here. But the lousy language is not neccessary. M.]
|
|
|
Richard,
You can be reassured that provided you change the oil to manufacturer's schedule (which I assume is what you state) then you will be OK.
Your car is designed and tested to meet the needs of the most demanding customer, the German Motorist.
Your drive cycle partly replicates that of a typical German motorist, who expects to get the published maximum speed and performance of his vehicle on the Autobahn, whatever the temperature of the engine. If it does not give that performance, he is back at the Dealer pretty sharpish. I kid not.
In my opinion, your max. wear is taking place in the first 30 secs of operation, while the hyro-dynamically lubricated bearings are awaiting oil pressure and the pistons are still rattling in their bores.
Also, if its a petrol engine it will warm up pretty quickly anyway.
|
|
|
