September 2002
I bought a 320dSe(150 b.h.p.) earlier this year on the premise that the fuel consumption would be approx 50 m.p.g. To date I have done 6k miles & it is only averaging 39 m.p.g. I was wondering if this will improve (say after 20k miles) and if any backroomers with this model could pass on their fuel consumption figures?? Read more
The handbook for my K11 Nissan Micra recommends letting the car idle for at least 30 secs after start up, presumably to let the car warm up.
Surely some mistake? Isn't the best policy to drive off straight after starting -- the engine will warm up quicker that way, anyway.
Or does the engine management system need 30 secs of readings to get its bearings?
Mike Read more
Its not just when the engine is clock cold.
Some years ago traffic patrol cars (Grandad's with the DOHC engine) had a problem due to sitting up on top of the little observation hills by the M1. If the engine had not been left idling, on getting a shout, the process of firing it up and immediately getting underway caused wear problems with the camshaft and valve gear.
Equally bad is sitting there with the engine idling for ages of course. (Cue for a post from the ranters)
Liked the idea of oil temperature gauges, and wait for a decent reading before giving it some clog, equally it tells you if too much welly means a spell of easier running is needed or an oil cooler upgrade.
Hi all
I went out and tried to start up my Mondeo today (97MY Verona)
and as I turned the key there was a loud bang and a plume of smoke emitted from the front left of the bonnet (where the battery is).
I had a look and the battery had literally exploded chucking/dripping acid around the inside of the engine bay - the securing bracket held what was left of the case in situ.
I called the RAC and 40 mins later they were out , and replaced the battery for me...he also flushed out where the battery had been with water.
RAC man said that he's seen this in about 1 in 300 cars and its usually the lead plates connecting and igniting the gas that causes it - any one else had experience of this?
As far as I can tell the old battery was the original one that came with the car when new.
I've had it two years now and todays "incident" is the only blot on an otherwise pretty clean copybook :0)
I had to adjust the pacemaker I can tell you!!!
Thanks Read more
"There is a note on the correct procedure in the front of the Haynes manuals. Many of us would have difficulty in recalling the correct procedure and it is unlikely that we would have a manual to hand when a battery expires, which invariably occurs in the dark and when it?s raining."
Not only is there a danger of big bangs, but many drivers have fried their circuits (BMW owners take note!) by incorrect jump starting!
A friend has had constant problem in the past with her Fiesta 'kangarooing' and failing to run properly or tick over when cold.
This was diagnosed by a garage as a vacuum pipe that had become disconected. There seems some truth in this 'cos the problem stopped the day they claim to have reconected it.
She now has the same symptoms back and want's me to connect the vacuum pipe.
The problem is I can't see anything untoward. I was expecting something akin to the pipe that used to adjust the timing at the distributor on my old w reg VW.
I can't see anything untoward around the pipes that go to the single point injector.
Anyone care to guess what I supposed to be looking for?
She is adamant that 'reconnecting the vacuum pipe' worked before.
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more
Toad
As I recall there are several small vacuum pipes at the back of this engine. I doubt it's the main brake servo pipe as this gives a huge leak and they won't usually run with that disconnected, but I once saw a Fiesta where that had come off (my Dad's car), so it's worth a check.
All you can do is have a good scout round and check not only for pipe disconnection, but also condition - there could be damage which is allowing the pipe to fall off.
Regards
John S
I have a Leon TDi SE, the 110 bhp version. Most of the time I'm so pleased with this car that I feel like that driver sketch Saab are using for their new ad campaign. Recently, a glitch has turned up which has marred the driving experience somewhat. Under heavy-ish acceleration, say flooring it above 2200 revs, the engine sometimes starts to hiccup. If I keep the foot to the floor, the effect becomes even more pronounced, the engine kangaroos and the traction control warning light comes on and stays on until the engine is switched off. On restarting, the warning light does not reappear.
This happened earlier this year, shortly before the first service - the dealer ran a diagnostic check at the time and found no fault. However, he did say that this type of fault has come up before, and there was even a recall on some Leons to remedy the fault - however, my VIN is not one of the batch that were recalled. The fault apparently relates to the ABS system, which is connected to the traction control system.
After the service (around May) the problem seemed to have disappeared, but in the last few weeks it has returned. Loss of overall power and reduced fuel consumption (down from an excellent 58+ mpg to an average 53 mpg on the display) have also been noticeable. This time, when it first happened, I kept the engine running and took the car to the dealer again straight away, so he could see the traction control warning light and run the diagnostic check while it was still illuminated. The computer recorded an unspecified fault at first - then after switching the engine off and on again, it found no fault and found no memory of a fault, which he said it should have. We had to leave it for a few days while he got in touch with Seat UK about it - they came back to say that a new piece of diagnostic equipment is now available which should deal with this. In fact, at the time, his technician was already booked onto the training course for using this computer and by now has finished it.
Once the technician returns from his holidays tomorrow, my car will be booked in - at the moment the plan is to replace the ABS control unit to see if that solves the problem - if it doesn't, the whole engine management system may be replaced. Fortunately, this is all under warranty! I'll let you know of any developments and try to get more specific information on the root cause of the fault - it may be worth including in the Car-by-Car breakdown. If anyone else has come across this in a Leon or other VAG TDi (especially the 110 bhp version), I'd like to hear what happened in other instances. Read more
Right, here are the details. The electronic injector had developed a fault, specifically "Commencement of injection - control difference. Needle/sender faulty." So a new injector was put in under warranty, which would normally have been £250 just for the part. Dealer was good, - touched up a paint chip free of charge - but the part took an extra two days to arrive, so the courtesy car got 400 miles on it. Have only done a few miles to come home, so haven't had the chance to floor it yet and see how it goes. Oh and he said there was a possibility the lamda sensor may be responsible for the glitch in the 1.6.
Forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere but after 15 years of owning Cits with XUD engines I have aquired the habit of giving them an oil and filter change every 5000 miles. My wife has graduated to an HDi and when I changed my oil yesterday she asked whether I was going to do her car's. When checking her oil I have noticed that it remains much cleaner looking than mine and the level hasn't dropped a mm in 5000 miles. Is it a good idea, or necessary to change the oil as frequently in an HDi? Service interval specifies 12,500 miles which seems a long way to me. Car does a variety of short journeys to work and longer weekend runs and its last 5k miles included a trip to Spain.
Thanks
PhilW Read more
I've noticed that on quite a few vans with these engines, when they go through the auction, they sometimes have a 'top end' engine noise.
Probably a combination of stretched service intervals, missed services, low oil level & cold engines.
Stick with 5000mls maximum.
Mark
I was out with friends for a drink Friday and the driver has just had a Pioneer Sat Nav unit fitted to his car. Very nice piece of kit it was too.
He'd decided to take us out in the wilds of Lancashire and had entered the postcodes for a few pubs where we could have a drink (the driver never drinks alcohol!). The Sat Nav told him in advance when a junction was coming up and which exit to take then reminded him within a few metres to turn left or right etc.
We arrived safely at each hostelry and had none of the usual 'are we going the right way' type comments. I was impressed how efficient the kit was, the clarity of instructions and no nonesense operation (tell where you want to go before setting off and it'll tell you how to get back on track if you do make a wrong turn.)
But, at £2500 (yes!!) I wondered if it was that necessary? It is fine if you are going somewhere you haven't been before or don't go to regularly but for regular runs, I'd question its usefulness, especially at the price.
One down side I did notice was the fitting which was done professionally, was that when the screen deployed, it appeared to cover the heater controls such that you couldn't get at them! Read more
Thanks for that.
Hi
My 1992 Renault Clio 16v has developed around the wheel arches on both rear wings a patch of rust which seems to be coming through from inside the body work. I have noticed the same problem on similar aged two doored Clio's. Can anyone out there confirm this on their two doored Clio (Any version)? This seems to be a design fault on the two door models, possibly allowing rain to collect at this point. There are no significant area's of rust any where else on the car. I have had the car from new and it has a full Renault service history. I have been told by an independant car body shop that this is not an easy repair and the cheapest fix will probably cost around £500 and to replace both rear wings will be at least four times this figure. I know the car is over ten years old this year but as it has a FRSH can I expect a sympathetic response from Renault themselves about making good this problem? Any opinions, advice, suggestions, gratefully received.
Thank you
Johno Read more
It seems to affect a lot of the early ones (1991/92 - H/J reg) round my (old) way (Reading), regardless of 3 or 5 door. A friend who recently p/ex'd his 91H 1.4RT 5-door with 110k miles had rust all over the bottom of the rear wings, just above the wheelarches.
Must be a design fault - and I agree it's unusual for a modern French design. Most 80s and newer French tackle doesn't seem to rust, bodywork-wise. Particularly impressive are the Peugeots (205, 309 and 405) - must be thoughtful design, or good steel/rustproofing perhaps? Never owned a French car (yet!) so can't comment from first-hand experience!
From what HJ's news report says, people are spending crazy money on X5's. Not the type of car I like myself but it looks like people really don't care if the car is imported or not so long as it has the toys (and from Holland, you generally get more toys as standard than youdo in the UK!).
There must be some desparate people out there wanting to be seen in the mafia mobile considering some are prepared to pay well over UK price for an import too. Read more
The HJ 52 GGK X5 isnt yours, is it HJ?
hello, just found this site...looks good
i'm 18 and looking to buy my first car. i'm looking at spending under £2000. and i am liking an escort at the moment.
are there are problems, items i should look out for when buying the car? anyting specific to the escort?
cheers for any advice
tom Read more
Yeah, but the Golf is a bit more hefty on the fuel, it may be solid, but you have to pay for that when something goes wrong - and it will on a GOlf that costs less than 2 grand, also, lik Peter said, the insurance is higher on most Golfs than an Essy.
The Escort IMO is a fun car to start with which shouldn't cause too many headaches, and if I had my learning time again, it's the car that I would buy without any doubt at all.
Japs are good, but dull...
Just sold a 320td Compact (6-speed manual 150 bhp) - over two years plus I averaged 49.3 mpg - I live in a rural, hilly area - no commuting.
PS. I'm currently averaging 49.4 mpg with a 2.0 TDI DSG Golf, but that includes a trip to UK from Spain and return earlier in the month.