May 2002
Our "L" reg Mitsubishi Galant 2L. manual occasionally misbehaves.
When pulling away from a stand at low revs the engine will cut out. It won't restart but will after being left alone for 30 seconds. This occurs very infrequently, twice so far this year.
More recently whilst at a constant 4000 rpm in 5th gear the engine just cut out, the rev counter dropped straight to zero even though the engine was being driven by the wheels. After a while on the hard shoulder the car started and ran properly.
The car is becoming difficult to start first thing in the morning taking over 15 seconds to start, once started it runs and will restart properly. This fault is getting worse.
We have also noticed a slight "hunt" developing on the cruise control.
Our Mitsubishi dealer confidently predicted a new Distributor cap and Rotor arm would cure the faults. £100 later and the difficult starting is slowly getting worse. The other faults occur so occasionally I don't know if they are cured. The Mitsubishi dealer is now suggesting a new distributor, these cost about £600 fitted and don't include a new cap and rotor arm. I haven't the confidence to take a £600 gamble as if that fails apparently the next one is £900 on a new ECU.
Has anyone experienced the same fault(s)?
Can anyone suggest a cure?
Should I keep going until it stops completely making diagnosis easier?
Richard Read more
Can anybody give advice why my heater of my 1993 Rover 827 Sterling (V6 Honda engine) does not emit hot air. One day, the hot air failed to work, cold air OK. Engine gets to normal working temp. We flushed out the inlet/outlet pipes leading to the heater matrix and the matrix itself - all clear and unobstructed - still no hot air. The fan and control panel are OK. The inlet/outlet hoses do not get hot and it appears that the hot water is not reaching the heater. Anybody got any ideas what to do next? Any advice would be gratefully appreciated.
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Suggest you check the hot water divertor valve on the bulkhead, John. It is a brass tower 'thingy' and has 3 or 4 16mm hose connections to it. Also a small vacuum hose connected to the top of it
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
HJ has commented on the Mk3 Golf rust thread that pre-2000 Polos also are prone to rusty doors, with more detail in the c-b-c-b.
I have recently noticed a small patch of rust, just above the rubbing strip, on the rear door of my 97 Polo. I would say that there is no way it has been caused by a stone chip, but has clearly come through from inside. The car is visiting the dealer on Saturday for a service and I will certainly point the rust out to them and report back on progress.
Has anyone else had experience of this problem? Has anyone had it resolved satisfactorily by VW? Or not?
Some ammunition would be really helpful.
Thanks all!
Andy Read more
Thought it was worth posting a partial and hugely delayed resolution to this issue.
When I gave the car one of its infrequent cleans, I noticed some further corrosion. The rest of the external bodywork is 100% corrosion-free apart from the door bubble I've already mentioned and a hefty stone chip on the leading edge of the bonnet. What I noticed was more worrying - the start of corrosion in the seam where the sill meets the rear wheelarch section. This area is normally hidden by the rarely-used rear doors (and a coating of mud) on my car.
So I decided to get off by butt and make an appointment for an inspection at the VW bodyshop. They declared and convinced me that the original patch on the door was from a stonechip and therefore not covered under warranty. The corrosion on the sill, because that is a seam, is also only covered under the 3 year paint warranty rather than the longer perforation warranty. The helpful comment was the suggestion to phone VW customer care and make my disappointment with their quality product known, mention full VW history... and suggest that they might like to make a contribution to the £200 repair cost.
To bring this now rather long story to a close soon, I had all sorts of problems trying to get an answer from VW, but the final call was an appology for all the hassle and an offer to pay for the work on the sill. This has now been completed and I am happy with the result.
VW would have had a happy customer were it not for the fact that the recently taken-over dealership refused to let me have a courtesy car for the 3 days that the bodywork and a 100k mile service would have taken. So I took the car to my local garage for the service and will not use the VW dealer again!
Following on from tonight's 5th Gear:
How many miles per year, and for how many years, would you need to do (and keep the car) to make LPG conversion worthwhile?
Car 1.8 litre petrol, just under 2 years old and 18,000 on clock.
Does 33mpg on Petrol.
FfCP Read more
Powershift!! is the programme for getting your money back. You need to show a significant improvement in emission figures to get the rebate.Of course,if the manufacturer did a good job in the first place and recorded good emission figures on gasoline,hard luck.
The heater fan speed on my 1993 Saab 9000 has reduced from 4 speed to maximum only. Is it a major strip of the dash to replace the unit or is it easily accessible? The usual backroom expertise would be greatly appreciated.
Pedro(gone fishin\') Read more
After some web research I just repaired my 91 9000 CD with the exact same symptom. The resistor unit is on the US passenger's side, beneath the false bulkhead (plastic cover just behind the firewall). Mine was gray, about 3" long, 1" wide with a rounded top and bottom. I believe it is mounted on the side of the air ducting just below the AC evaporator.
You can buy a new part- I've found them as cheap as $55 from eeuroparts.com (Connecticut, USA). However after taking mine out and testing it I thought I'd try to repair it. I went to a local electronics store looking for 50W resistor of 0.22 ohms which is what I read on the web was required. This was not the case. Those power resistors are huge and nothing like the original part. On mine there was a gold colored "resistor" with a green stripe and a label of 109C. It is actually a thermal fuse or thermal cut off (TCO) and cost $1.69. Part number NTE8108, also replaces ECG8108, SK859. It gets crimped on with the crimp rings supplied. I bought mine at Active Electronics, www.activestores.com . They are the US subsidiary of Future Electronics. www.futureelectronics.com .
So far everything has been working fine again. If the TCO blew because the blower was drawing too much power I guess it may go again soon and I'll need to replace the motor and the fuse. I might also try a slightly higher temperature TCO. I don't see how another 5C could hurt and it may provide enough margin to keep the blower going. I'm not looking forward to digging deep into the system to pull the blower, condsider replacing the heater core etc. I hope this helps.
Trying to get 17 yr old son insured on either the wife\'s 1.8 Focus or my 2.0 Carina. Best quotes so far (Tesco) are £1021 on Focus for wife & son and £1560 for me & son on Carina. Is this par for the course or do any of you out there know better ? Read more
We found Elephant the cheapest for 18 year old son named driver on mother's mid range ins. gp. car.
Bear in mind that Elephant's prices are for 10 month's cover, but they were still the best quote.
To quote HJ (Daily Telegraph, May 25th.) "The automatic is a CVT, but readers have had problems with this..." My own has covered 16,000 miles without problems. What is the experience of others? If there is likely to be trouble with the box, at what mileage should I get rid of the car?
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This is a "crystal ball" question.
Maybe trouble tomorrow, maybe never.
NOBODY can forecast on any one car.
The best answer that can be given is trade findings or owners reports on their cars (then amalgamated into a survey like J D Power).
The Vectra is slated as being "non-competitive" and having poor reliability and poor dealers. My neighbour is on his second, and is going to buy a 3rd - becase he has never had ANY problems!!
I have a P registered Golf and recently I've noticed a small patch of rust under drivers door seal, as it's not in an exposed position (i.e. not likely to be stone chipped) should I be able to claim on the 11yr non-perforation warranty? I wouldn't have thought this was normal for a 5 year old car.
Rgds,
Tom Read more
Slightly ambiguous isn't it.
Their argument was because I haven't had the car from new someone could have had a new door seal put on and therefore I couldn't prove the paint work wasn't damaged before hand. My argument was of course they couldn't prove the door seal had been replaced.
Rgds,
Tom
Maths is not my strongpoint so I need some guidance on how to work out which gear ratio/final drive combination is likely to be the most long-legged when looking at a particular car on paper. These vary between versions of the same car, particularly, of course, when automatics are brought into the equation.
I think I can work out that anything under a 1:1 ratio is an 'overdrive' but final drive ratio presumably then determines the real-life effect when comparing vehicles. Ideally, I would want a formula which gave the Autocar-type summary quoting miles per 1,000rpm in top gear.
Yours confusedly
David Millar Read more
ToTH
maybe that is why one of these is abandoned just up
the road
midnight raid?
>>
Maybe the weasels will give you a hand?
Been looking for an abandoned one for ages - I could do with a new wheel trim!
--
Parp, Parp!
3 problems I hope you can help with!
Firstly, when raining overnight I find the drivers footwell is saturated with water. No other part of the vehicle is affected and windows are fully shut. Any ideas.
Secondly when operating central locking the hatchback remains independant of the system, ie when shut stays shut and when unlocked stays unlocked.
Lastly driverslock cylinder. Key can be inserted but not turned either left or right.
Any help appreciated Read more
Here is the link from the backroom archive.....I thought it was familiar, same model of car!
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=40...1
cheers
Ian
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Mitsubishi distributors and ECUs are not the most reliable. bba-reman in kent can supply reconditioned units, and they will also arrange courier collection and delivery. I have no connection with this company, just a satisfied user.