May 2002
My Toyota MR2 (grey import) has a warning light on the dash which has started to come on quite frequently. It originally started lighting after about 15 miles, now after as little as 2 miles.
The light looks a bit like an in-line fuel filter (sort of a square box with a straight pipe on either side), and has heat haze lines above it.
Does anyone know what this light means?
D7 Read more
Yesterday, as I was driving home from work (mainly urban roads) noticed that the temp on my Xantia 1.9TD was reading a little high - as it was quite a hot day and I was stuck in a traffic jam - I didn't take too much notice. I've never had problems with overheating before even stop start on the M25, for 10 miles in the height of Summer (don't want to be reminded of that too much - no A/C!!).
However, luckily when I was only about 1/2m(5min) from home I noticed that the gauge was reading just above the 100C mark. I turned the heater and fan on full blast and parked up with the engine off.
After it had cooled down I checked the coolant and I could see droplets forming on the inside bottom edge and a steady trickle down the right side of the radiator. There was no coolant in the header tank at all. I topped it up with water and left it overnight. This morning there is some water in the header tank albeit 3-4 inches from the brim. I've left the Xantia in situ and I'm using SWMBO's Punto at the moment.
What's the general consensus, a new radiator? Will I have done any permanent harm to the head? (The coolant has been changed every 2/3 years according to the history and I had it changed only last October).
Whatever work it needs, I'd like it to be carried out at my local Citroen specialist. Is there a temp fix so that I can drive it approx 12 miles/40min, so that I don't have the hassle of having it towed there.
Thanks,
Chad.R Read more
As with any cooling system faults - STOP DRIVING the car straight away!
If only people would heed this advice, my workshop would be quieter....bah!
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Despite owning several cars each driven over 100K miles I have not had to replace a clutch since a Beetle 30+ years ago; come to think of it I don?t know anyone who has had a clutch replaced either.
My kids, like others of their generation, were all taught to hold the car with the clutch just biting i.e. slipping for hill starts etc. My father would have died if they had done that to his car.
Now the basic design of the clutch mechanism hasn't changed fundamentally has it? With far more powerful engines generating more torque, and apparent abuse, why do clutches last so much longer?
Or do they?
C
Read more
OK, so now I know why brake discs wear (because the pads don't, and somethings got to give).
BUT if (non-asbestos) clutch plates are now not wearing, what is?
I have a granada 2.9 cosworth I need a new set of cats for it in this country they will cost £1000 can any one tell if I could get them cheaper abroad I know this car was alot more popular in germany or does any one any foriegn dealers
Read more
Michael
www.fuelparts.co.uk/
has been mentioned on this site before as an independent supplier of such items
Regards
John S
My car will soon require two new tyres on the front.
Recommendations here say that the new tyres should be fitted to the rear?
How do you rotate the tyres if you havent got a spare (car never came with one - tirefit). Can you jack a car up at two points (so that two wheels off the ground) safely?
Read more
peteh,
you're quite corect. That's why it's recommended to have the better tyres on the rear - it makes the car less likely to oversteer and more likely to understeer, which is generally considered safer.
Power induced oversteer on a rear drive car is a different matter - the amount of oversteer can be controled with the throttle - not so on a front driver (well, not so readily).
I think I know the answer, but I am sure someone here can advise!
Some nutter has put three small dents into the bonnet of my Aclass Mercedes.
The dents are small, and the paint is not broken. The local MB bodyshop however - is suggesting to replace the entire bonnet, respray, and blend in to the front wings.
Usually I would have thought about using a "paintless debt remover" - having seen some excellent results on other cars.
However after examining the bonnet, I notice that it is a double skin (i.e the dent does not show through to the inner skin. I therefore assume that this damage cannot be removed by a paintless method!
Is replacing the bonnet the only option?
Read more
on this side of the pond the dent ironing chaps have a gadget (used on my RR to amazing effect on an Al door with a shopping trolly dent in it) that uses different shaped 'tools' that are glued to the dent with a special glue (NOT a cyan acrylic like super glue) and then a set of adjustable braces are fitted to it and a screw turned.... and out the dent came raised flush with rest of the door.... a touch of heat from a hair drier released the 'tool' and some other chemical removed the glue residue from both door and tool... a touch of polish and it was good as new
www.dingking.com/
I don't know if this is the same system you use over there but note the double panel tool
www.dingking.com/content.asp?pid=179
Hey £200 and set up in biz for your self!
it really worked like magic on my RR
Randolph Lee
Nantucket Island, U.S.A.
I live in my own little world, but it's ok, they know me
Vaxhalls come fitted with large rectangular silencer boxes and a decent bore, however I have noticed that the pattern parts are the more usual oval boxes and appear to be a smaller bore. What is the difference price / performance / longevity / etc ? Read more
An interesting question!
My Vectra GSi V6 Estate has an enormous Irmscher exhaust system as standard, with a silencer box even bigger than the 'regular' items, and which only just fits adjacent to the wheel well.
Given that one option I have next year, when the lease expires, is to buy the car, I was thinking of exactly your question only a few weeks ago.
Apart from the argument of 'cosmetic expectation versus geuine performance gain', the car and exhaust design strike the happy compromise of allowing near silent cruising, but with a delicious soundtrack when the throttle is poked, from any revs. :-))
/Steve
Had the chance to inspect a 206 SW at rest in a Peugeot main dealer showroom while waiting for courtesy transport home the other morning.
I don't like to knock PSA products as I think they are, in general, practical, nice to drive and excellent value for money.
However, the brand-new example I was looking at had about 6" of carpet edge detached from under the driver's door trim. What's more, there was no sign that I could see of any way to dismantle the plastic door trim to panel to pop it back in place. Annoying, not serious, but not what I'd expect from a brand-new car. Otherwise the rest of the car looked excellent if you've got the money to burn on a new purchase, especially as it had the extra rear child seats fitted (forward-facing, definitely child-size only, but 7-seat capable nonetheless).
Later the same day, annoying the local Citroen dealership by paying £0.62 cash for a pair of sump washers, I looked at the new C3s in similar circumstances. Despite the muttering rotters' zeal in trashing their trim, and the similarity of some items to the 206 SW (front seats), there were no such trim problems evident, though the rear-seat legroom is scarcely better than the extra rear seats on the 206SW. C3 for the young family, 206SW for the extended family, perhaps?
David M
You know Citroens make sense in an up-and-down world...... Read more
OK - guess I must be wrong - but shows that a "corporate look" can go a bit far - 206 and 307 seem very similar, and also similar in size in a way the 106 and 306 weren't. My intention wasn't to do the dirty on Peugeot, more to express my surprise that the dealer hadn't sorted this out - if I were selling + had faulty stock out there I'd sort it out damned quick (speaking as a former retailer).
David M
You know Citroens make sense in an up-and-down world......
Just been out for a test drive in the new C3, thought I'd share my opinions with you.
The car was the 1.4 HDi Exclusive, and therefore had the complete set of kit, with climate and cruise control.
I'd sat in the C3 in the showroom a couple of months back and couldn't get my 6'2" cuddly frame comfortable, but in this car I fitted just fine. The only downside is that with me in the front seat, you can forget about anyone else sitting behind as there was very little legroom left.
Rear visibility is a bit iffy when reverse parking, the back pillar (C?) being quite wide and the headrests obscuring the view further. The side mirrors were good and it wasn't too difficult to park, although after driving a LWB Transit for the past couple of days I'm used to not seeing out of the back window.
The car drove very well, and the engine was very impressive pulling strongly from low speeds in the first three gears and the car felt quite secure at motorway speeds and on potted country roads. It seemed to stick to the road quite well, but didn't have quite the secure feel of say the Saxo VTR when throwing the car around - Then again, the ZX Aura never felt quite as chuckable as the ZX Volcane so perhaps we should await a sportier version before making final judgements on the chassis.
As with all car using digital speedos, I found the accuracy to be distracting, but absolutely loved the rev counter. It reminds me why I like Citroens as the half clock face pointer across the entire binacle is something most manufacturers wouldn't even consider using (waits for the inevitable contradiction!). If you've not seen it, it's as funky as the speedo on a Vauxhall Viva, but rounded.
The equipment level is excellent, having everything I recall the old Jaguar Sovereign had in terms of buttons to press with the exception of electric seats. Very impressive in a small car I thought.
The boot wasn't huge (then this is a small car), and I can't see the benefit of the split boot system, but the cabin feels spacious and airy from the driving seat and quite comfortable.
So would I buy one? Well, I loved the car but the argument against it was parked next to it in the showroom. The dealer was doing new Xsaras for £8995, and even the entry C3 HDi is £5 short of £10k. Given a bit of time, and Citroens agressive pricing I think the C3 is worthy of serious consideration having the flair and technology to match and surpass most cars in the same bracket, IMHO. And it might just be enough to talk me out of the MINI Diesel when it comes to buying a knackered old car (to replace a knackered old car) in 6 years time.
Lee
communities.msn.com/honestjohn
...Takes corners beautifully Read more
Ben
If you are thinking of a C5, auto, I would strongly suggest that you look at the C5 dialogue on Yahoo,Groups,C5=L. You will find it illuminating especially in relation to gearboxes and servicing. Best of luck.
I bought a new car in Sept 2000 which has, once again, had an engine failure.
After owning the car for 6,000 miles the oil pressure went down to 0.0 due to a sheared woodruff (sp?) key, after a 9 week rebuild at the factory, I duly ran the engine in again (as per the manufacturers handbook) only to have the cam shaft finger followers fail after approx 5,000 miles. Again back to the factory for a rebuild, 8 weeks this time. Once more, after less than 5,000 miles, the finger followers went again - this time the repair was completed in 3 weeks.
Now I find that the valves are stretched and so the car is likely to need another trip back to the factory for more repair work.
Where do I stand with rejecting the car? Is it too long in to it's life? (20 months and 19,000 miles) Obviously I have still been paying the finance payements all this time, despite being without the car for extended periods. I have always followed the manufacturers running in procedure and regularly check the oil and water levels
Any help would be much appreciated
Graham Read more
What a sad story, indeed.
Rejection isn't an option at this point in time :-(
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
.jpg)
Ah, of course.
Ian Cook