May 2002
I've a Rover 400 SLDi (diesel turbo intercooled).
It has 45,000 on the clock but the service schedule doesnt specify a cambelt change 'til 84,000.
Any history of problems with early failures???
Wondering if I should include it in the next service???
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can anyone give me a rough idea of the cost involved to replace belt and mileage schedule ? Read more
thanks for the info vern,will get it done asap
I wonder if anyone has thoughts/advice on the insurance claim aspects of this situation.
On a large roundabout, with 3 lanes, there are 2 exits fairly close together. The majority of traffic take the first exit onto a dual carriageway and often do so from both the left hand and centre lanes of the roundabout.
My daughter with little driving experience and new to this particular roundabout moved into the left hand lane when she was parallel to the first exit in order to take the second exit.
At that point a car in the centre lane attempted to change lanes and hit her. The LH front of that car striking daughters RH door. The other car driver admits she was going to take the first exit.
There were no independent witnesses but the only fact in dispute is at what point daughter had moved into the LH lane.
The other driver maintains she was not at fault because my daughter was in the wrong lane. The legal expenses section of the Insurance company feel that settlement will have to be on a split liability basis as they will have difficulty proving negligence against the other driver.
Now I accept that it is entirely possible that daughter had moved to the left too soon (although naturally she doesn?t agree.) However even conceding that point, my reasoning is that the other driver must be at fault for changing lanes and hitting her.
I would add that I find it infuriating when nervous drivers or those unfamiliar with the road layout enter a roundabout from the LH lane and remain in that left hand lane all the way round and take the last exit. However if I changed lanes and drove into them IMHO I would be at fault.
Is it worth daughter pursuing her claim?
C
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Mark/Cockle
Another instance of illogical pricing is SWMBO's Yaris Verso registered in her name. Her premium is only £127 fully Comp. However to get it that cheap I had to be the main driver with SWMBO the additional driver. To have it the other way round would cost an extra £40.
I am 3 years older and we both are conviction and accident free in the last 5 years. I have my own car.
I understood that females were statistically a better risk. However hopefully reality has dawned and it is now appreciated that men are better drivers! (ducks for cover)
C
I know a bloke who is looking for the plastic undertray that sits under the engine in the old shape Audi A4 TDI. VAG are looking £225 for a replacement. Other than VAG breakers any bright ideas??
As far as I am concerned these are to reduce noise and improve MPG with better areodynamics, True / Fasle ?? Read more
Yep, they're called Acoustic Shields. My A4 TDi one broke (the front one) and that was £110! What a rip-off.
But it was noticeably louder without it.
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
I've just bought a Peugeot 106 Diesel which drives beautifully except it seems to make me ill!
Every time I drive it I can feel my chest tightening and I feel queasy. I've checked that the tailgate seals tightly but am wondering if there is anything else I can check. Has anyone any ideas? Thanks.
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Funny how these old threads pop up after a period of time isn't it?
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn/problems.msnw?Page=1 - Pictures say a thousand words.....
I suppose this is the inevitable followup to the copperslip thread. ;-(
Despite 7 days of WD40 sprayage the last of the 8 exhaust studs on my pride and joy[1] sheared while undoing it's nut.
The cylinder head is alloy, the stud is steel of some kind.
We're talking about item 22 as described here: 216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=8...4
For the purposes of discussion I will try and sketch the situation below:
|| = thread.
@ = not threaded, and slightly wider than the 8mm hex section.
Before:
|||||||||@||||||||| [ Cylinder Head side]
After:
||||@||||||||||| [ Cylinder Head side]
It now has enough thread to put a nut on the exhaust end and about the same of non threaded stud.
Simply making a flat screw thread on the end and apllying twist with that and some mole grips would be easy but it'll be to tight for that to work I'm sure.
Possible plans:
a) Thread the wider section and put two nuts tightened against each other and try and screw it out that way. However it's wider and I'm by no means sure that it'll thread to the same size.
b) Trying to drill it out. Again very tight for space. It would need to be a *very* long drill bit 'cos the frame prevents anything wider than the original hex from getting in there.
The problem is it's so tight/rusted in that the thing has sheared. I can't see how putting twist on the studd can work - surely it'll just shear again lower?
Another problem is lack of space. I'm not at all sure I can drill it or tap it with the engine in situ.
So some questions:
Will applying heat help?
Is there a better 'loosening' agent than WD40.
Is there a magic solution to this one that I'm not aware off?
I am prepared to pay for this to be done profesionally but I'm not sure if it would make much difference.
Why don't manufacturers make exhaust studs and nuts out of something that doesn't rust???
[1] Bike.
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Parp, Parp! Read more
I've got a collection of cut down, ground down, bent and welded spanners. I use the severely shortened ones nearly every day.
They're mostly worn out and ill fitting but as they're used in situations where leverage isn't a priority it doesn't matter too much. The 'Snap On' junkies sneer when they see them.
The last time the local tool supplier was around with his van, he was promoting a new range of bent, shortened, ground down spanners.
Hello,
Some of you may recall I bought an old Mercedes 190 E for my daughter, I have done a little bit of work on it, some new exhaust parts, new front springs ( a common problem I am told ) and now the car is tip top, However the Rev counter won't work.
There is what appears to be a sender connection under the bonnet which is not connected up, it is on the same part of the wiring loom as the Temperature sensor which is conected to part of the thermostat housing, however I can't find the sender on the engine, distributor or Coil into which it should plug.
Does anyone know where this wire belongs ?
Other than this minor problem the car is fantastic, very solid, taut and reasonably quick if required.
Cheers
Marc
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Guys,
A while ago on the old forum we discussed the substantial job of changing a ZX heater matrix.
This is something of a known issue with older ZXs, encouraged by infrequent cooling system maintenance.
I took some photos of the last one I had in and LeeH has kindly uploaded it to his image site.
Have a look at
communities.msn.com/honestjohn/problems.msnw?actio...0
Quite a lot to take out wasn't there! The hardest part is getting it all back together with no rattles, nothing left over and all the dash bulbs working.
David W Read more
Blimey!
Now I understand why the garage changed all the lightbulbs on the dash when I asked for just the one that was dead to be replaced. I guess while they were in there anyhow.....
With all that wiring hanging around, it makes you realise that there's more and more electrics in cars these days and that a wrench, a pair of ladies tights (mens just don't work) and some grease aren't enough to keep your car on the road these days.
Lee
communities.msn.com/honestjohn
...Takes corners beautifully
Does anyone know why Polo engines (old ones) have two oil pressure senders? Only one appears to do anything, so I removed the other one to fit an oil pressure gauge (essential banger accessory) with no apparent ill effects.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com Read more
i lost all dash about 6 months ago and looked on some forums someone suggested the default pc fix of turn it off and on again i.e unpluggin the battery for half hour then popping it back on hey ho it worked all dash back then yesterday on way home the oil light came on and beeped at me so i tickled the car home only a few minutes in this time the dash became erratic rev counter on and off etc anyway got it home and filled up on oil as was low as id been slack thought thatll stop it beeping but no it srarted after 10 seconds again so i tried the battery trick for half hour no joy left it off overnight popped it back on and hey presto fired her up rev counter worked no beeping or red light.....just saying
Interesting to see HJ's DT column definition of Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) on the new Mercedes SL series as 'brake-by-wire'. As someone who's spent years developing software (including embedded solutions such as this), I'm sure that MB have got some sort of fail safe behaviour built into the system. Problem with electronic systems can be that when they fail they do so totally and without warning, unlike a good old mechanical solution. With something like a braking solution I'd worry about this!
Anybody out there (HJ?) know what MB have in place to detect/handle faults? As he points out, with a microprocessor controlled pressure simulator to provide pedal feel this is obviously a sophisticated system.
How do backroomers feel about having a computer apply their brakes for them?
Rich Read more
The post above was referring to this earlier post:
"Perhaps the MB failsafe is the brakes locking on, thus rendering the car undriveable?"
Put it in the wrong place-sorry!
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Hi all
84K or 7 yrs is the change point for the cambelt and FIP belt on the excellent L Series oil-burner
I've never had one break, either. Well, one, that was a direct result of incorrect tensioning, so that can be discounted altogether.
Book time I think is 2.5hrs but with practice (the first one is always the most time-consuming isn't it?)
Obviously, it's your perogative, but personally, I'd save the money and stick to the manufacturers reccomendations
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org