May 2002

dan

Hi everyone,
seriously important question:
Is there any difference between the 440 turbo head and the 480 turbo head. (Both of which are classed as part of the B17FT renault engine and they sure look the same - like that means a lot!).

For example if there are any diffences in compression between the two car engines, would the head have been modified as part of this difference?

I only ask because l'm getting a scrapper to strip out and healthcheck a 440 turbo head and cam on monday which will eventually end up in my 480 turbo. I don't want to end up with a useless head and £x lighter!

Of course l should have done my homework first, l blame the sun!
Please help, l am even willing to accept hunches, and educated guesses.

Regards,
dan Read more

dan

From all my background reading the B** number does refer to capacity. It has been rebored to 1.8, 1.9 and 2.0 in various guises throughout its applications. I think these were used for 440/460 derivatives but never for the 480 turbo which always had a 1721cc engine as you say.
There was a prototype of a ~2.0 litre 480 turbo but the line ended before it made production. (What a shame that would have been a proper performance car) Perhaps this is where the different interpretations arise?
Either way, l panicked and cancelled the original order. However l have just ordered a proper 480 turbo head from Volvospares-uk.
Why l didn't go there in the first place l don't know (ignorance maybe?)
Anyhow thanks for responding, if anyone's interested l will post an update on my progress in a week or so.

Many regards,
dan

Toad, of Toad Hall.

A mate had his car pass an MOT. During a 10k mile service performed after the MOT on the same day the following faults were found.

1) O/S outer C.V. gater small pinhole
2) N/S/R wheel bearing slight play and noise (£15 +£10 +VAT)
3) O/S/R lower swivel slight play (£16 + £10 + VAT)
4) Front brake discs and pads worn very close to the limit (£110-120,
inc.)
5) N/S/F tyre worn low
6) Both rear wheel cylinders leaking (£25 + £31 + VAT)
7) O/S/R shock absorber damp
8) Both rear brake drums worn
9) Unable to remove No. 4 spark plug
10) Exhaust misaligned

No's 1, 6 & 7 should be MOT failures surely?

I assume 6 means slave cylinders.

Discuss.


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Parp, Parp! Read more

Paul Mykatz-Tinks

Hell, yes of course. Used a trolley jack on the diff to fit snow chains. So, where the hell was it? Definitely not the rack, it was on the rear, I remember crawling underneath to fix something later, and saw the gaiter. But where? Have to dig out the Haynes. Call back later, well spotted, Ian..............

Toad, of Toad Hall.

Those who've been around a while will remember Dave had a problem 12-6 months ago with a) Spark Plugs Rusting & b) No 2 Cyl sparker insulation spliting.

Nobody could explain it and we put it down to dodgy champion sparkers in the end.

Well. Tuesday morning I got that 3 cylinder start from cold that I know to be a split plug.

Bought an individul NGK and whipped the old Cylinder two NGK out. It's rusted away significantly and the insulation is completely split.

Also the other two plugs than I dare touch [1] are rusted solid into their sockets (since October). You'll have to trust me on this. I know the car nad I know well the 'springy' feeling through the breaker bar that says 'Put another ft/lb on me and I'm gonna bring the thread out with me'.

After 3 years and 20k miles this car is effectively scrap and on borrowed time. Investing another few hundred on another one when it dies is not a problem so I'm not concerned about curing any problems but, from an academic point of view I'd love to know:

1) What splits that No 2 plug?
2) What rusts the plugs? [2] I used to do two 1.5 mile runs a day but there's been no short runs now since October.
3) Is it possible to free the solid plugs? WD40, pouring engine oil down? [2]
4) Compression on No 2 is 90. Good or Bad?


[1] 1 & 3. No 4 is Helicolied and will remain untouched for ever. ;-)
[2] Beyond the Aluminium/Iron rust battery interface there must be some something else. 6 months for plugs to rust in solid is crazy. [4]
[3] Ok Q3 isn't academic. I'd love a look at em!
[4] I haven't previously ised copperslip, but will from now on, of course.



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Parp, Parp! Read more

David Lacey

Better go out and get some of the REAL thing!
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org/

Question Pug 405 TD Cat
BrianW

Having had my 1996 Pug TD services this week, I am informed that the cat is blowing and needs replacing at a cost of £275 excluding fitting.
Apparently as it is a late 405, few of them were fitted with cats, they are as rare as hens teeth and it could take up to a fortnight to get one in.
Am I being swung a line, is the cost reasonable, are pattern parts available and could a non-cat system be fitted without major engine management reprogramming? Read more

BrianW

Success
Car and scooter both welded up for £52, saving £350+ against replacements, cheaper even than changing the car front section for a non-cat version.
Thanks, guys.

Big Vern

Hi all

I am think of fitting an ecoteck widget ( www.ecotekplc.com/ ) to my 98 R 1.8 GLS Vectra, has anybody have any exeperince with these devices? Read more

Dizzy {P}

Kith,
If you look back, you'll see that I did apologise for failing to spot that your Astra was nearly new with a fuel-injected engine, rather than a banger with a worn out carburettor.

An uncle of mine is a retired Vauxhall main dealer bodyshop manager. He was with them for 40 years (it was his brother's firm) and he always has a Vauxhall as his personal car. His current one is a 1.6 Astra and he is very disappointed with the performance and economy. Perhaps this is not a particularly well designed engine and perhaps you happened to strike lucky with what I would call 'dabbling'.

I'm not in a position to judge either way regarding your own personal experience but, as I pointed out in a much earlier posting, the makers of this widget don't even understand the technology and there is no way I would fit the thing to any engine of mine.

GB

I currently own 1982 1.6 Golf GTi (bought from VW dealer in 1985). Stolen in July 1992, recovered by the Police a week later (driver drink driving and disqualified etc). Car taken to a garage and left there for 6 months (false plates fitted, got it back when someone finally looked at the engine number). Notified the very day ex company 1990 Golf GTi 16v arrived, my brother phoned to let me know car available but could not get through as the Police were already on the line telling me they had my car and apologising for the delay etc bless them. Not really their fault, I think they were swamped. 0-2 Golfs in 5 minutes. I was a very happy bunny! All a bit spooky though. This is now our main car. Mark 1 gathering dust and flat batteries in our garage.

I am in my 40's, my wife is in her 30's and we have 2 kids 6 and 1.5 years old. My wife is expecting number 3 in July.
Tried a double buggy but as expected it will not fit in the Golf 2 boot.

Time to get a bigger car.
Budget £5000 - £15,000 max, 6 years old max.
Wish list includes
big boot or hatch area,
proper 3 point rear seatbelts for 3.

Any advice / recommendations gratefully received.

Graham Read more

blowpipe

I've run a Saab 9000CSE for six years. It's coped with three kids, and the cavernous boot takes all that's needed for a bucket'n spade Cornish holiday for the family with ease.
Luxury feel, go on and on with very few problems, but the best thing is you can get a great example for 5-6K. Unless you've money to burn on depreciation, buy one and invest the cash you save for the kiddy's future. Wait until they finally destroy the interior and buy another!

Question Ford Oils
Simon

Can anybody shed any light on the manufacturer/quality of Ford own brand oil. I have been using mainly the 10w/40 'XR plus' oil in cars that I look after and never had any problems with it. But I was always under the impression that it was semi-synthetic and since actually reading the can it doesn't actually state this. Am I right or wrong on this assumption and does anyone have any other opinions on Ford own brand oil? Read more

Richard J

I use Texaco Havoline Energy 5W/30 in my wife's 1.4 Zetec S Fiesta because it is the only non-Ford oil to meet their M2C913 spec. At £19 for 5 ltr, it's probably not much cheaper, but why compromise engine life to save a fiver every 6 months ? I would use Ford oil, but the dealers parts dept. opening hours are the same as my working hours.
On the subject of cold starting problems linked to oil grade, there was a previous string on this topic referring to Zetec engines by (I think) Adam (going for tune up fame).

Rob E

I own a 1987 Toyota Starlet 1.0 12 valve. I have just noticed that the coolant level is quite low, and would appreciate some advice on a) how to top it up and b) what to top it up with!! I've not been driving long, and my mechanical abilities are not very good, so your help would be greatly appreciated! My concern is that if I undo the cap, will that affect the pressure of the system, and I'm worried about affecting/ dislodging the pipes that lead to the coolant tank. I'm a poor student - hence why I haven't got a proper mechanic to do it yet!

I realise this is quite a basic question, but your help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Rob E.

Rob. Read more

Mark (RLBS)

Just two points to add to what John S said...

Haynes Manuals are frequently available in local libraries.

1987 isn't that modern, and it sounds as if you haven't had the car long. It really might just need topping up.

Question Omega problem
mad_andy

My 3 second hand, 3 yr old, 40k omega has failed to start twice, both times first thing on a morning. First time it started after rescue to Vauxhall garage, second time diagnosed crankshaft sensor failure. NBow seems ok (touch wood). Has anyone else had this problem? If the sensor is working intermittenty, surely I'd get a misfire occasionally? Or is it all too complicated...

Bit annoying the changes interval for cambelt - £260 for replacement.

Andy Read more

Chad.R

How can such a flimsy rubber belt be employed where the risk
of it breaking causes so much damage? .....
Simon


Simon,

I think this is why chain driven cams are generally preferred to belts. However a large number of engines still employ belts with no adverse effects as long as they are replaced according to the
manufacturers recommendations.

The "old" Omega, especially on V6 models, has had well reported problems with early cambelt failure. IIRC, the new 2.2, 2.6 and 3.2 engines are all chain driven. Which must be good news for any prospective Omega buyers out there.

Chad.R
Soupytwist

My MK2 Golf GTI has failed MOT due to failure of near side front shock absorber (as well as near side rear brake caliper).
Are shock absorbers best replaced in pairs, or would one be OK ?

Oh, and the exhaust is knackered as well so it's gonna be pricey.
Matthew Kelly
No, not that one. Read more

TrevorP

PAIRS. The handling will be "interesting" with one new and 1 dead or dying. What's the choice? do 1 now, one next year?