May 2002
I have a very small leak in my air con system. It seems to need refilling every 12 months or so.
I have taken it to air con specialists twice now but they can't track down the leak.
Rather than keep paying them to refill it periodically, I would like to buy some R134a in smaller quantities and refill it myself. I already have a vacuum pump to vac the system out before refilling.
I have seen "aerosol" sized cans for sale in auto shops in the USA, but over here in the UK I have only seen it available in large expensive 10kg cylinders. (About 15 years supply at my present leak rate!)
Where can I buy these aerosol sized cans in the UK?
Regards,
Mike Humpherson.
mike.humpherson@thermo.com Read more
Is it possible to use copperslip when replacing exhaust studs or is there a better grease to use.
They were a little tricky to get off even after 7 days of regular WD40 bathing.
Also do hex sockets come in longish lengths? 4 Studs are *really* hard to get to and a 7 inch *long* hex that would fit into a socket would be perfect. An allen key would do but I need more beef behind it... [1]
[1] Currently using a 14 inch 1/2inch breaker bar with 8mm hex. I'm glad the studs were strong!
--
Parp, Parp! Read more
How about Molybden disulphide ? I'm told this will stand atomic radiation,but I dont know about temperature resistance
Usually OK to about 200 C but I believe some formulations are OK to 530 C.
Water is coming into the tailgate of my Ford Mondeo, making the carpet and spare wheel well very wet.
I have carried out tests with the aid of a watering can and masking tape, and these tests have determined that water is entering, not through the tailgate rubber seal, but through the sealing on the nearside rear light cluster.
Surprise, surprise, on looking at the Ford Motor Company warranty conditions, I find that water ingress is one of several things that is specifically excluded! Consequently, it looks like some effort from myself is required in order to renew the rear light cluster seal to the bodywork, since I don't particularly feel like paying to have it done.
My query is, what should I use to make the new seal?
My first thought was bathroom sealer, but I know this is rich in acetic acid and fear it might damage the paintwork, so adding to my problems. There must be specific sealers available for doing a job like this, and, hopefully, they will be available in other than trade quantities; I don't really want to buy 5 litres of the stuff just to do this.
Many Thanks Read more
Ah, this sounds rather familiar!
When I went into my own local Ford main dealer to ask about seals for the rear light cluster, I was also told that they weren't available separately.
However, what the chap did say, and I didn't really take on-board the significance of this at the time, was that there was a long strip of sealer which they could supply.
I would guess that this is the material which you are then required to form into the new seal. I had originally though that the seal would be a rubber pre-formed item. However, this certainly isn't the case.
Being, at the time, not satisfied with the dealers response, I didn't, in fact, purchase this strip which he said that he had. I ended up just running a strip of universal silicone rubber waterproof sealer which I obtained from a DIY shop just around the corner. This was placed onto the existing sealer, not ideal I know. This has been about 99% successful in stopping the water entry. One day, perhaps when I'm bored, I'll go back to the Ford main dealer, buy one of these sealer strips, and have another go to make it 100%.
So, I'm sorry that I can't give you a Ford part number for the strip. It could be that it isn't even an actual genuine Ford part, though I rather suspect that it is.
This was my own story.
I have a 1994 Mondeo with a factory fit Bosch immobiliser. It has developed a fault where it is not releasing the fuel pump when you deactivate it. My garage has isolated this part of the system, but say it will have to go to Ford for a complete fix. Has anyone any experience of this system or had a similar problem? Thanks Jason Read more
Hi Adam,
Thanks for the reply... I actually found it and forgot to post back here. The fix worked great and my car is now back on the road. I couldnt believe how much Fords were going to charge me compared to it only taking me 1/2 hour in total to take the immobiliser out and repairing it. Fantastic.
Btw, I found the same page at homepage.ntlworld.com/michael.crummy/fordprobe/imm...m
Cheers :)
Would anyone know the size of the 12 point spline drive for the driveshaft to g'box flange bolts on a Mk2 Golf?
Hopefully this will save me guessing, followed by crawling under the car in a car park, getting it wrong and feeling like a bit of a plonker as I ask to exchange a brand new tool I've just covered in grease and detritus!
Regards,
Rob F Read more
I have to admit - gaah!
I'm not your 'old man', as I am sure you are aware.
But...
I did nearly the same thing.
(Hangs head in shame).
Martin.
El Dingo (Martin).
Help and/or advice please. Nne month out of warranty my partner's SAAB 9-3 2.2 turbo diesel is proving reluctant to start, first time anyway. I think it is the same engine as in the 2.2 Frontera. At UK temperatures we never see the diesel glow plug light - I think the plugs only operate at very low temperatures. It won't start, but it does if you keep trying and once it cut out after it had started.
The local SAAB agent has had it in for a day and can't find anything wrong but it still won't start first time every time. They say that any further checking will involve taking things to bits to assist the diagnosis and obvioulsy this will will run up a bill, and quite rightly. Can any Back Roomers suggest a fruitful area of investigation? The engine obviously has to have fuel under pressure to start and run. Once it does start, it runs OK. All help most welcome Read more
You are welcome to browse the website://www.le-mark.com. All-Ceramic glow plug for diesel engine can provide below performance: High temperature(1250°C), Rapid heating up(<1 Sec. to 1000°C), Long life, High strength, etc.
Long
lemarka@public.cta.cq.cn
There is a local showroom with these brand new golfs advertised for 11999. They look similar to a GTI externally (alloys, colour coded bumpers and tinted rear lenses etc, plus a few other features not standard to the SE spec inside.) Does such a model exist? And is it a good buy? The showroom is not a VW franchised one.
Cheers Read more
I have previously described the boss's BMW X5 as a ridiculous machine but I got a chance to have an extended ride in the front passenger seat when we did a round trip from Scotch Corner to Reading. It's a 3 litre sport automatic with black rear windows and the optional monster wheels.
We set off round the Scotch Corner roundabout like it was a 5th gear road test with VBH at the wheel, and settled into a steady cruise at 95-100 mph down the A1. (Well it was 6 in the morning and traffic was light). First impressions were of useful power, good acceleration, good ride on the tarmac, not as much lean as I expected on the roundabout, and unshakeable grip on the road. As a passenger, I had no idea what gear we were in; the box changing silkily up and down. The cabin was civilised and well-built with climate control and electric seat adjustment in all possible directions, but everywhere was so dark. Dark grey German plastic on the dash, black leather and black trim everywhere else, and the heavily tinted windows didn't help either.
Interestingly, although the traffic on the M1 thickened as we headed south at our illegal cruising speed, no-one seemed to get in the way; the traffic parting in front of us like magic. I conclude that the X5 has that indefinable quality of road presence that belongs to BMW and Merc saloons.
The trafficmaster screen advised that the M25 was slow so we left the M1 about 9:30 and headed across country to look for the M4.
Following a truck at 40 mph we felt the penalty of all that rubber bouncing from pothole to pothole. I don't think the tyres are compliant enough to give the kind of ride one might expect. Surprisingly, the boss (a bit of a hooligan on the motorway) couldn't find an opportunity to let loose all those lovely sounding BMW horses and pass the truck, so we pattered and jiggled along uncomfortably behind it.
When we stopped at a services on the M4, the disadvantages of using such an enormous device as everyday transport became obvious. It couldn't be parked in a normal slot and have passengers exit easily on both sides. Leaving the passenger seat was uncomfortable and arkward and the running boards left wet muddy marks on the trousers.
After our meeting, it was time to fill up and head north. The extravagant £67 worth of petrol equated to an outrageous 17.5 mpg. 12 hours after we set off, we returned to Scotch Corner and motoring sanity in the shape of the trusty Synergie.
So, Back Roomers, what's the point of the X5? If you must have BMW power and glory in a luxury 5 seater with a delicious-sounding motor, I would have a 4 year old 523i and trouser about £25k for a holiday to remember, wouldn't you?
Darcy Read more
Am I the only one here who likes the X5?
Esp. the 3.0D Sport
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Further to my other thread, does anyone think this is a good idea?
I have never been to an auction, but have friends who have been and bought cars there.
I believe there is a Wembley Car auctions near me, but it's not listed on this site, is that for any particular reason?
Any recommended auctions??
Cheers
Dan Read more
Thanks for your reply David, and apologies for my lateness in replying (still catching up after supposed "holiday").
I'll give this one a try once I can get at the car again - it's sharing garage space with some large sections of tree awaiting transport to a tip.
Thanks for the kind offer of the cylinders - I've already a got a pair of hatch ones I could use as a last resort (slightly lesser volume than the estate, I believe).
I'll let you know how I get on.
David M
You know Citroens make sense in an up-and-down world......
Hi, I am looking to buy a used MB but am wondering what to get.
Does anyone know about the fuel consumption of W126 300SE? (Urban, 56mph & 75 mph)
Low depreciation is my first priority, then low servicing and running cost. I do all the work on my Mondeo so I am technically proficient. Also, I need aircon but not sunroof.
I do not have a price limit but I believe the less I pay, the less I lose. I do not have a time limit to find a very good example so I will be looking for the next 6 months.
I have seen 96N-reg C200 at auction in good condition with aircon for about 4800-5000 pounds at the moment.
I believe I can find a very good 91H-reg W126 300SE for about 2700-3000 pounds.
I do not know 92J-reg W140 300SE enough to comment.
I would not choose the four-headlight E-class because of the quality issue.
Out of W126, W140 and W202, which one should I choose and why? Also, what will be the potential problems and more importantly, how much to solve those problems?
Thank you very much for reading my long message.
Garrison Read more
Dizzy is right. The old E-class is sheer brilliance. DO change oil often and keep those ears peeled. It will try to tell you all sorts of things. Listen.
I just got a 1996 'P' W140 S280. I've seen it in dealers for 15,999! ... I got mine private for less than 1/2 of that.
Yes, it IS heavy on fuel and I can imagine the £100 tyres wear quickly too but it's amazing!
Shop and you WILL find.
Look as hard at the owner as you do the car. NO question about the car is TOO embarrassing ... YOU are doing THEM a favour, not the other waya round.
I tried a Merc dealership. Well, okay, eight of them. the best I did was to get a 10 minute drive in an S280 on a stright road. The worst .. a 20 minute wait whilst he rang one friend, then another, then another .... incredible. To think I've been to their museum in Germany and we (now) have five Mercedes in the family too!
Rojer
(recently ex 19-year-old 190E owner)
There was more recent spam from 2019 that I deleted hence the large gap in posting dates but the account history of 'Cool Cucumber' does not suggest spam.