May 2002
Colleague at work had the following problem would appreciate, both the legal and technical view of the backroom, does this fall between forums!!
140,000 mile 97P Audi A4 Tdi (90bhp)engine makes strange sound followed by sudden loss on power on motorway. This is after several weeks with what was thought to be a rev related rattle. First thought is cambelt and having had it changed at 120,000 miles by Audi is confident they will put it right. Car was recovered from the motorway to an independant garage who removed belt cover to find it intact with no apparent stripping of teeth, he did observe some fraying of the belt though. Car then recovered to Audi dealer who had changed cambelt for further inspection. He said there was no cambelt damage and no evidence of the timing being out and on wanting a further £250 to stripdown head and £3000 for a new engine if reqd the car was recovered once more to an independant vw/audi specialist.
The situation is now this. The independant vw/audi man has stripped the engine to reveal one cylinder with massive damage, valve head embedded in cylinder crown but also damage evident to valves and crown in other cylinders. New exchange engine required. vw/audi man remarked on the fact that the car when arrived from dealer had chalk marks on the belt as if set up for a timing belt change, there is also no sign of fraying on the belt that is now on the engine.
Obviously photos of damage have been taken, Audi UK say nothing to do with them since removed from franchised garage. Basically is there any failure mode other than cambelt that could cause this level of multi cylinder damage? is it conceivable that an audi dealership would switch a belt/retime an engine to hide a mistake in their work? what would be the best way forward other than to grin and bear it without incurring vast legal costs!
Thanks, Ian Read more
First of all David let me say how happy I am to see this section in the hands of someone who understands the needs of Land Rover owners.
Now: Last weekend my Sister visited and on a day of very dense fog was out in the Range Rover {The US Spec of 1989 is that of a Top of the line all options fitted Vogue I think but it does of course have Cats fitted and runs on unleaded (All we have been able to get over her for about 10 years now)} Well she left the fog lights on when she got home and yesterday when I went to use it I found the Battery stone dead I put it on a smart charger for 24 hours and this AM all was well (after I recoded the OEM radio Cassette) except that the EFI light is ON... car is running perfectly and I ran it by a friends place that does the Local equivalent of a MOT he checked all the numbers from the Dynamometer He had run for said (passed) test last month and if anything they were a touch better...
The RR Manual says that the \"fix\" is to replace the computer under the passenger seat... Now this is a bit of rather expensive kit to just bang in... and as this model of computer was only used (as far as the US market is concerned) in 1989 when they imported only 1500 or so units as they began their reentry to the US after a 20 year absence) it is not found at the breakers either... (I am told it was also used by one of the US spec Jaguars that year as well but no luck yet finding out which one... It is a different computer to that used in the 1989 V-8 range Rovers anywhere else in the world due to the US Emission laws I think). My Guess is the the totally Flat Battery has done something to the computer as my gentle 24 hour recharge should have precluded any surge damage that a jump start might have caused.
So before I resort to the Homer Simpson \"Fix\" of a patch of black electrical tape over the warning light... I place myself in the hands of the back room. And oh yes I intend to get another 13 years out of this RR unless US Fuel Prices rise to the levels you endure.
Randolph Lee
Nantucket Island, U.S.A. Read more
I think the ECU has recorded a Low Battery Voltage fault code; perhaps disconnected the battery (as said before) perhaps leaving it disconnected overnight may be of help?
Otherwise, there must be a LR/RR Specialist nearby who can check/clear the fault code?
ECU replacement sounds way too drastic to me!
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Hi Stephen, congratulations on the new site. What is the latest on the Espace engine. I gather you have spoken to Renault?? Read more
I would be grateful for details of the trader - just to build any case I might have with Renault.
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Stephen Khoo
www.khoosys.net
BM went in this morning (before being nearly side-swiped) for oil and filter change. Whilst I waited (an hour and a b***** half) they loaned me a Mini. What a cracking little motor - best thing since ready mixed semolina. I'm sure they gave me this knowing I'd be back for more. I recall HJ recently suggesting that a contributor should drive one before passing judgment about the hyperbole. Guess what, I may be tempted to take SWMBO
to have a look....she does moan that the Disco is a handful in town....The only condition really is that the Mini must be in the "right" colour. Some colours don't work. Read more
Red with red roof seems to suit the MINI One. Yellow is puke inducingly awful.
HJ
Quite agree about the yellow, HJ. I wonder what it is that makes car manufacturers try to get us to like yellow. It's like when the road test Ferraris on telly nowadays - they always seem to be yellow - awful (IMO).
Ian Cook
Beginning of Feb I started a thread in the old Forum about the MIL light in my 2.0 DTi.
As I can't find the old thread to make a link will repeat some of it here.
Turn on "ignition".
All lights go on/off as normal.
Start engine.
Few seconds later MIL light comes on, stays on till throttle given a hefty prod.
Engine down on power, flat spots, surging on full power acceleration, fuel consumption up, hesitant away from a standing start.
Initial look by dealer confirmed there was a fault, and tightened turbo hose. No change
Advice from Backroom (Andrew Moorey Tune up as I recall) suggested this was mass air flow meter, as this had cured similar symptoms on a customer's Astra.
Much faffing by the dealer later, cleaning and divvying around, they suggested a new mass air flow meter was needed. This has now been fitted.
Result bit like the curate's egg, good in parts.
All the bad driveability issues have been resolved, bit early to say fuel cons now OK but I think its back to where it should be.
However the light still comes on as before, stays on and goes out as before.
Dealer is foxed, any suggestions. Ignore it? Could this now be moisture in the multi plug as it only happens first thing?
(footnote, DW I've been saving this up for the new forum for a couple of weeks now, can't have that other chap getting all the action can we? ;-) Read more
Haven't read the previous Vectra threads, but doesn't the light coming on initiate a "limp-home" mode, replacing the ECU's values for air pressure, temp etc with default figures? That would cause the running like a pig and poor economy, make sure the dealer has cleared the ECU down, fault codes or no.
Post links here that you would like to remain easy to find in the forum...........
Please reply to this first note in the thread and use a meaningful title.
Ta ever so.
P.S. Please remember to check HJ´s links ( www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/ ), he has loads of good ones including any from this thread that he liked.
p.p.s. It is useful if you also include a line to say what the link is for, and why it is useful. Read more
environment & road protest camps:
alt.venus.co.uk/weed/roads/welcome.htm
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FoE PR knocking Road Users Alliance launch:
www.foe.co.uk/pubsinfo/infoteam/pressrel/2002/2002...l
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Links from Speed Limit.org:
speedlimit.dreamwater.org/antilinks.html
Hi. Just read the archive re Saab diesel not starting. You mentioned injector seals degrading and letting engine oil into the diesel. Which seal do you mean? Is it an internal one to the injector or the injector seal to block? My old faithful Mondeo (which people may recall I am having problems starting) has started to lose oil which may be a similar problem? Or is it because I moved to semi-synthetic from mineral...ooer! For the record, I have renewed the leak-back hoses today and eagerly await 6am tomorrow for the acid test. Your reply will greatly enhance my patience with the old bus! Read more
My thoughts exactly!
MG-Rover Questions? Click on www.mg-rover.org
Just quoted £111 by National (Cheaper than ATS, Quickfit) to replace front section and middle box on my LDV200 diesel panel van. So depressing. Went to Halfords for exhaust sealant as temporary solution to holes.
Would I save money if I get the parts myself? Not sure of supplier except local LDV garage. Wonder how much extra stainless would be as front fails every 3 years. Read more
At least with most vans there's plenty of space to work underneath. When I changed the clutch on a Transit I didn't even have to jack the vehicle up to remove the gearbox. Try the Yellow Pages - there are quite a few outfits that sell exhausts retail, but remember to get clamps and rubber mountings before you start the job.
Questions about Citroen Diesel engines?
How to get current specs (in English) for new car engine?
How to treat a turbo?
What is intercooling?
What is the difference between semi synthetic and synthetic oil?
Sorry if these are familiar questions but would appreciate help
regards
Vercin
Read more
My brother-in law changed the carburettor on a Reliant 3 wheeler and put on one with smaller jets/weaker mixture.
He found the engine was running hot, stopped and found the exhaust manifold glowing nicely.
May as well start the first ever serious thread...
As I have my theory test tomorrow...
Does anyone know a quick n easy way to remember breaking and stopping distances?
Short of just remembering them [not good idea for me] can anyone suggest a method?
Metric preff, but im sure I can work out imperial too
Kev
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When I took my bike test the "Two-second Rule" was quotable in place of stopping distances.
However, as Ian has pointed out, there are problems with this rule which I also mentioned a while ago in the archive.
Taking my IAM assessment I was advised that a 2 second gap was the minimum required between me and the car in front.
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Thinking more about the original poster's problem, I have also seen a VW T4 van, about P reg, with a siezed hydraulic follower, they were busy drilling it and inserting a self tapper to try and remove it. Didn't work of course, so they were going to weld a bolt to it and use a slide hammer.