May 2002
I notice that Sykes Pickavant sell a universal cambelt tensioning tool for just over £150. I always change my own cambelts ( simple basic cars) using the twist method . Although I have never had a problem I would happily check the tension with one of these gauges or any similar tools if any one could endorse this product or any other . I would be grateful of any information as I have only seen a picture of this tool and therefore have no experience of its effectiveness. Read more
One for the engineers. One of the suspension bolts on my Polo sheared off when I tried to remove it. It's the bolt which goes through the bottom of the rear shock absorber unit, and takes the weight of the car. I looked for a replacement today at a kit car show, but the only bolts I could find in the right size were stainless steel. Are stainless bolts strong enough to be used to locate crucial bits of suspension? If so, I'll fit them to all the suspension arms on my self-built sports car. Read more
Just to get in before the old forum closes down, don't like these multiple subject fora.
Trying to put all the above in context.
Just to quote some typical properties. I?ll also quote steel grades in old money so as to include the old uns in the conversation ;-)
Grade of steel , 0.2%yield N/mm sq, Ultimate tensile N/mm sq, elongation% (measure of ductility), condition
En2 Low alloyed , 150min , 310 min, 25% min, as rolled
En8 C+ bit of Mn steel , 245 min, 510min, 17% min , normalised
En24 (higher C +1.2% Cr +1.5% Ni, 635 min, 850/1000, 13% min (quenched & tempered)
316L S/s, 205 min, 515/690, 40% min, annealed
SAF 2507 super duplex, 550 min, 800-1000, 25% min, annealed
Trevor's comment *was* right re the relative strengths, compare En2 vs 316L, please note En2 is actually stronger than true MILD steel. Out of politeness I did not mention that he was wrong in the way in which he suggested testing the relative strengths of the two materials, ie by sawing/bending. The problem with this is that stainless work hardens quite rapidly thus in hacksawing a s/s bolt if your technique is not good or, more likely the blade has seen better days and you are rubbing rather more than cutting work hardening occurs with a resulting false impression of the true hardness of the bolt in its as supplied form.
You?ll also notice that even a small amount of alloying elements, eg EN8 gets properties up to the region of s/s and further alloying additions eg En24 with heat treatment gets mechanical properties which are above ?standard? stainless, and comparable with stronger stainless material albeit with lower ductility. As the engineers will know I have just quoted the T properties for En24 its quite possible to heat treat up to yield strength >1000 N/mm sq and UTS about 1200, but the ductility is low at these levels.
Of course the alloy content of these carbon/low alloy grades is such that they are not resistant to corrosion in either wet or high temperature corrosion conditions. Which is where increasing the alloy content and such as stainless steels come into the frame.
Then the development of stainless has concentrated on increasing strength and increasing corrosion resistance, and tailoring alloys for particular applications. So for example the super duplex grade is often used, not only for good corrosion resistance, but due to its good strength it is possible to reduce component thickness and hence weight. It is now possible to obtain stainless tube which has better strength to weight ratio than titanium tubing. Likewise there are other alloys with high strength at elevated temperatures, but creep strength is perhaps not an appropriate discussion point here.
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Regards,
FiF
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I've posted a couple of times about the 309 I bought. The car is a 1.4i GLX, K, with 75000 miles (I've done 2000 in 2 weeks) and history, I paid £700 - just putting minor probs into context, ie I didn't expect perfection.
The only issues were the cambelt being due for change, and the engine management light flickering on briefly - once.
HOWEVER the driveshaft - ? - has become very noisy. Under acceleration the steering wheel shakes. Under full lock there are odd clonking noises. However at a steady speed, up to say 80, its not too bad.
Is this the driveshaft?
How long have I got - can I make a 400 mile motorway journey if I stick to, say 60-70?
Who to go to , and how much to pay - Haynes manual suggests knocking is worn joints and grating noise varying with roadspeed is a 'worn intermediate bearing on the right hand driveshaft.' In other words does this mean replace right hand/both driveshafts?
I've read that this is a weak point on the 309 at 70k plus. Cheers Read more
And further to John's comments you really need some nice chap (or chapess) who will test drive your car then jack up the front and say....
"It is most likely to be the ???????and I'll do that for £££££.
David
Last week on the eve of its MOT, daughter's beloved Visa was rear-ended by a Toyota Starlet, of all things. By hitting the offside corner it pushed the bumper under and buckled the boot floor and offside rear wing which is part of the bodyshell. After judicious use of a tow rope and a gate post, the bumper was heaved back from the tyre and it passed its MOT next day with flying colours since only the reversing light was cracked.
Trouble is what to now because, although the guilty party has held her hands up and her insurance company accepts full responsibility, the cost of repair is probably considerably more than the car is worth. Daughter reported the accident to her insurance company (Tesco), which said it would handle everything, got it assessed next day and it was deemed by them a total loss. The other insurance company has now rung her and said we will do everything too and don't bother pursuing through Tesco. If their own assessor writes the car off next week, they will pay "market value" and she can keep the car.
My concern for her is that if she carries on with the claim through her own insurance company then there is a risk they will dock her no claim discount if they don't get everything back to their satisfaction. If she goes with the other insurance company (Zurich, so quite respectable) then she need only declare the accident on a renewal and that her costs were recovered. I presume Zurich would rather not involve another insurance company because the administration costs will be higher.
What's the best option here? Deal direct with Zurich or let Tesco handle it using the legal expenses cover she took out?
I know there is an argument that she should be put back in the position she was in before the accident but realistically the chances of finding new Visa rear wing repair parts (it's part of the bodyshell which has buckled slightly) are somewhat remote. If "market value" is more than a derisory £100, she doesn't mind too much driving it around for the next 12 months once it's had a hammer applied here and there.
Thanks
David Read more
So you are arguing that a student, or other young person on a low first wage, should pay the same insurance premium for a banger as he or she would for a new car (with the same big excess)yet get no benefit from that insurance in the event of a no-fault claim because it is a cheapo car that is damaged. Presumably if it had been a brand new Saxo getting roughly £1000 worth of damage, that would have been OK.
I think the typical reaction to that scenario from a low-income driver is going to be 'Why bother with insurance in the first place?'
What does make sense is to have some system whereby the opinion of one assessor is acceptable to all parties and the admin is kept to a minimum. Even better would be for the guilty party in such cases (below a certain level of say £500) to reason that it is worth paying out cash to save future premium increases.
David
Every time I start my BMW MINI up and move off,after aprox' 3 seconds a dull clumping noise comes from the engine bay area.it would appear in my humble opinion to sound something like an electrical solenoid energising.
this occurs every single starting sequence.I am not particulary concerned but am very curious as to what the cause is-any MINI owners noticed the same noise and does any one have any ideas as to what the cause is?.
cheers,
RAYASP. Read more
I'm very sceptical about fashion cars, HJ, but I've got to admit that the new MINI looks good. I think it makes it as an evolution of the original in the way that the new Beetle doesn't. It looks fresh and cheeky, whereas the Beetle looks naff and dull.
I won't be buying one - but then that's no reflection on the MINI, it just doesn't fit my motoring needs. ...but if I were still working and looking for a company car (for the sort of job and business needs that I had) then I'd seriously consider it.
Ian
i want to source and buy a new car of the small variety three doors up to 1100cc, sun roof, power steering, budget up to 6.5K - advice please. Read more
What about a Punto?
If you don't need "NEW" model (link on homepage) good deals on pre-registered old shape if you look.Free insurance 0% finance plus lots of other incentives, too.
Mark
some time ago a message was posted identifiying manufactures and gave dates when a new model was to be launched - can any one remember the title to enable a search, or is there a web site. many thanks Read more
Richard
The guide at the back of 'Car' magazine gives likely model change dates.
Regards
john
Is this stuff really cheap and sub-standard or major company stuff (BP/Esso?/Shell) etc they allow the own-branders to use so they keep their grip on the market. And should it be avoided? Read more
David, many thanks for that.
Ian
Hi all,
This morning, I was faced with the sound of the starter motor slowing down to a halt. The battery had finally died. Not a problem I thought, especially as it had happened on the drive. The battery was on its last legs anyway.
I managed to purchase the new battery the same morning. I dried all the spark plugs as the engine had been flooded on trying to start from the old battery. With the battery fitted, I tried to start the engine again.
This time, I noticed that the engine made no attempt to fire at all. It was turning over quickly but too smoothly, and sounded like there was no spark being made.
I checked for a spark from the plugs, and this turned out to be working.
After drying the plugs again, I attempted another start. This time it made the occasional attempt to fire, but was still no better.
I am at a loss as to what this could be as the car was starting perfectly prior to the battery failure. This has happened once before when the battery ran flat, but the car did eventually start after many attempts. Once the car does start, it is cured of this problem. It only happens after its tried to start on a dying battery, which appears to upset something.
Maybe I should just wait a day or two and try again. Seems too trivial to call out the breakdown and lose no claims bonus.
Thanks to anyone who might have the answer,
Matt. Read more
Sometimes a lot of efforts to start can finish off an already dying coil.If your car uses an 8v. coil and a ballast resistor(and from memory I think GM does),continual 12v-the ballast resistor is cut out of the circuit when starting- can finish off the coil.Had a similar problem on a Fiesta-idle fuel solenoid failed-no idle so loads of cranking-eventually had to replace solenoid and coil.
My Volvo 850 has an air con problem. There is a leak somewhere. Independant servicing garage says its a compressor leak. Main dealer says most likely evaporator leak. Neither could say for sure because the system has to be gassed up first which they say costs over £100. Either way its very expensive. Who is best to repair this type of thing? Main dealer, independant garage or air con specialist? If the compressor is fixed and I later find it's the evaporator after the gas has leaked it's a costly mistake.
I don't know if the independant garage has the gear to for this job but might just take the job to make the money and main dealer prices are scary for most jobs. I've no knowledge or experience of the air con specialists but wonder if they can be good at all makes and types of motor.
Can anyone help? Read more
I get a 'can't find the address' message when putting in the address you suggested. Is the address correct or do you know another method of contact?
Thanks again.
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The recommendation is now not to twist the belt. There are even instuctions regarding the tightest radius they can be bent to during storage! Twisting and bending is supposed to damage the fibres laminated inside the belt.
Regards,
Mike