July 2020
Is there any information about what will happen to the London ULEZ after the big expansion next year? To put it in more personal terms, if I buy a Euro6 diesel a few years old (ie not RDE2), am I likely to get shafted by some further restrictions? Read more
This has not been my experience. The annual premium for my Mazda CX-3, insured with LV through Mazda, fell from £389 in 2019 to £325 in 2020.
I am in the 65+ age group, and there were no changes in my personal circumstances or my NCB between 2019 and 2020. Read more
I agree Peter. It's like the AA increasing premiums and offering big discounts but not for existing members. Electricity/Gas companies, Sky TV, Phones & Broadband are similar. It's really a necessity to shop around every year for everything otherwise you can more or less guarantee that you're being ripped off somewhere.
'Renault says its new plug-in hybrid powertrain gives the Megane estate a 0–62mph 9.8 seconds and a top speed of 111mph. The PHEV system sees a claimed 217mpg on the WLTP combined cycle, along with CO2 emissions as low as 30g/km'
Would love to know the real MPG after the 30 mile battery runs out. Read more
I'd say conman that it'd be around the mid 40s to the gallon depending on how hard it's driven of course bearing in mind like all plug in hybrids once it runs out of battery it's just a normal petrol car carrying batteries which are heavy. Like you I'm guessing, I don't like the way they quote the over inflated mpg figures allowing for it being charged up on how it runs on fuel. I wish also that like some of the other forthcoming hybrids, there was the option to have non plug-in version like the standard hybrid of the Clio which uses more or less the same tech but you just don't have to plug it in.
So I have a 2012 Honda Jazz CVT and I am looking at upgrading to a used HR-V in the next 6-12 months... Read more
I did try Polish, I forget which one of the better brands. But its just too much work. I havent the time and the whole car needs a revision. My EX really wasn't gentle with it. I think taking to a detailer is a better option.
Oh one thing I noticed yesterday....
Following on from an earlier post where i did "Drive like a Nun"
I kept a record over a 1000 miles recently, and overall 39 ish MPG with about 50% urban and the rest A roads and Motorways.... Read more
I've just done a brim to brim calc on my first 1200mls in my 16 gdi n/a and it came out at 32.9 This is with local normal steady driving betwee 5 and 30 miles per trip Loooking to get alot nearer 40 omore on longer trips in the future when the engine loosens up.abit
Only found out this week after 6mths ownership how the middle rear seat belt works ond stores away when folding the rear seats down
2012 Sportage KX-3 2.0 Diesel AWD slight clunk on gear change and release of accelerator
Discussion Starter • #1 • 2 d ago
Good morning. After a long drive down to Devon at the weekend, going through some real stop-start traffic I noticed a very slight clunk, not very noticeable but it’s there. It happens after a gear change (when the clutch pedal is released and mostly if not always when going down gears) and sometimes after I release the accelerator (change/reduction in speed).
all else seems ok - I don't think there is any excessive vibrations or not that I notice?
At times when I slowly release the clutch it doesn’t happen, likewise if I am careful with the accelerator – but it’s there.
Looking through the forums I have seen loads of different possibilities, but nothing that quite matches mu description – any ideas of what it could be and possible cost outcome it’ll be?
With the handbrake on and engine on I put it in reverse then 1st and lifted the clutch. I heard the slight knock/clunk again. It to me sounded like it came from underneath the car but mywife couldn’t hear it with the bonnet open. It seems to be when I changed gear, so if I lifted my foot off the clutch twice when it was in reverse it wouldn’t do it, as it was already engaged
couldn’t move the wheels and no sound when rocking.
there’s no loud band, very slight but it’s there.
Read more
Hello
I have a 2009 vauxhall corsa 1.3, I recently changed the battery as my other one was flat and when given a jump it wouldn't start. I then took my car for mot after replacing battery and it failed due to anti roll bar which they replaced and then i drove my car home fine. Next day i went to use it I turned the key and it wouldn't start it wouldn't turnover, after a couple of turns it worked. I drove it for 5 minutes and it cut out on me and hasn't started at all, when i turn the key it doesn't make any sounds just the lights on the dash come on and radio. I've been told it could be the immobiliser.... Read more
Thanks for your reply, ill have to get it towed to a garage today.
124 miles!!! (more like 100 in real everyday driving) for £30,000+ you have to be joking. Read more
Ridiculously low range for that huge price. That App is going to become really annoying bleeping "You need to recharge again" all the time.
Hi just looking for some advice. I was in a minor accident about 10 days ago, scuffed bumper, damaged, headlight, dent in front wing. Had the car looked at by a local garage and they estimated about £1k of repairs. Car in worth around £6800k. Car went into the repairers a week ago. Just checked progress and car is awaiting an engineer inspection. They said it possible uneconomic repairs. Based on the body work damage there is no way this should be classified as a write off, although I stress that’s not been confirmed. Under the circumstances can I insist to my insurers that I get the car back from their approved body shop for an assessment at a repairer of my choice? Not being an insurance expert any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Had the car looked at by a local garage and they estimated about £1k of repairs.
I interpret this as meaning not a bodyshop. I believe in getting a first estimate from a convenient and trusted local bodyshop, and submitting that to the insurer. You aren't obliged to use an insurer's preferred repairer, and for an insurance job your bodyshop would normally quote for replacing all damaged parts, but may well be able to save a bit by mending some parts instead of replacing....
We see a lot of people talking about the best Japanese sports cars of the 90s, but what about the average Joe? Recently I have been trying to get myself a small little Japanese car from the 90s or late 80s to enjoy retro fun. Having already done research, lots of recommendations go for the K11 Nissan Micra, especially as there's still an abundance of them around. But I've been thinking of getting something that is more rarer and discreet.
The Nissan Sunny is definitely a very uncommon car nowadays. I've seen several hatchbacks of the N13 and N14 for sub-£1k, most being the 1.3. Then there's also Toyota Starlet, having found a 1.3 1994 model for cheap and even a 1.0 80s Starlet for under 1k. Plus some K10 Micras albeit over 1k. I've also found Honda Civics of the time but they have larger engines and could be pricier to run.... Read more
What about an old Polo, maybe a MK2 if you can find one. Or even an early MK3. Tough as old boots mechanically, quite well protected against corrosion, although not as good as the 205 I don't think. The 205 was exceptional, I seem to recall HJ mentioning something years ago about how well designed it was in that respect, with no mud traps etc. for corrosion to start.
Agreed re Polo but as per my previous post some have better metal than others - Mrs BJ had a 1984 Polo for 19 years - mechanically fab and body was amazing re rust. My sister had a 1990 version of the same that was not great at all re rust. It was failing aroung the fuel filler, rear windows, wheel arches, windscreen surround, sills.....
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