January 2016
2011 1.4 TDCi, bought in Dec '15, very resistant clutch pedal didn't seem too bad in test drive for my 82yr old Mum. Now after 3 weeks urban traffic, she needs pain killers for agony in foot. Have to go back to dealer (again, after battery failure within 3 days) to convince them to repair or replace the clutch or whatever is needed. Phone calls to repair desk suggest they are reluctant to do anything, and prefer her to swap to automatic model. My feeling is that Ford are (again, I have had a poor experience with Ford over my old Focus) trying to fob her off until warranty expires, and not complete their customer service obligations. Our other difficulty is that I can't be there in person to back her up, because of work. Any tips on dealing with Ford Dealer Service, will be appreciated. Ta Read more
After regular daily use attempted to start car - starter did not turn and dashboard lights faded while attempting to start vehicle- battery appears fine - lights / radio all ok but engine not attempting to start at all- any thoughts gratefully received! Read more
Thanks will give it a go
Hi Everyone,
I'm really at a loss with my car and I'm struggling to get an answer, about 2/3 months ago the car started to develop a fault with its engine start. Whenever I start the engine first time (from hard, cold or in warm weather) it will also fire and work perfectly.... Read more
I would agree, fuel line pressure is the critical thing for starting and a diesel specialist would certainly be the best place to go as they usually know what they are doing, I would always make one my first port of call, most garages to not understand injection systems sufficiently.
I have a Ford galaxy that is pressuring the water jacket and blowing pipes off, now the usual suspect would be the head but it's had another cylinder head which was crack tested and checked for level and came back all ok, as it is now it has no increase in temperature and stays solid in the middle of the gauge, and there is no evidence of water in the oil, so any advice on things to check and eliminate would be greatly appreciated.
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Unlikely I would've thought, as any increase in temperature resulting from the pressure increase in the cooling system caused by a crack in the cylinder head/block would be absorbed by the coolant.
The pressure in the cooling system is directly related to the temperature, and will increase in line with the temperature increase as the engine warms up. The pressure is therefore regulated by the temperature. The pressure cap is an overall safety valve which should lift to let off the excess if the pressure exceeds the rating of the cap. In theory this should never happen because the engine should never get that hot, but it could do if the engine is not correctly dissipating heat due to a thermostat or radiator fault. In any case split hoses and rapid excessive pressure build up should never happen. If they do then a compression leak from one or more cylinders almost certainly the cause.
Excessive pressure on a cold engine indicates a clear problem.
Have the changes to the later CVT in the Jazz (as in 2014 models) made any differences to it's known problems i.e. juddering and reversing? Read more
Thanks. I might give one another try. Possibly it was better than I thought but comparison with the Volvo C30 cabin affected my judgement. Link appreciated - I never know how to do them !
Fixed on board sat navs? electronic handbrakes? reversing warning bleeps? fobless ignitions? no spare tyre? advanced IQ required to read dashboard warning lights? a PHD to understand/operate the audio system. I'm a pretty IT confident senior citizen but-BUT i am going to stick with what I've got till it drops for the time being. All this modern rubbish is no good to me, I have been trained to drive a car and look after it.
Another thing, never forget that anything automatic has a reliable habit of going wrong,going wrong,going wrong..... Read more
"However, there is no crank handle in case of flat battery." - John F
Ridiculous, I certainly shall not want/buy one of those cars then....
My car is deffinatly a voyager 2.8 executive yet my log book states it a grand. I bought it as a grand at the time not knowing the difference in size. How do I get this corrected does anyone know if this has happened before ? Read more
It happens quite alot, I wouldn't worry about it TBH.
Hi I was wondering if you could help, I have an 08 kia ceed and for some reason when I operate the front windscreen washer the drivers side only squirt out of the bottom 2 holes, there are 4 holes and the top 2 holes are hitting the bonnet edge and don't seem poweful. I can't see a kink anywhere in the pipe under the bonnet and the rear washer works fine . Thanks in advance. Mike.
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On my 10 plate Ceed, the washer jet seems to have a 'feature' where the jet needs to be pushed back in (quite hard) for normal operation. This has happened to me twice in a couple of years and only takes a couple of seconds to do; otherwise as you have experienced, the screenwash dribbles out, most of which doesn't even get on the screen! On my Ceed, it has only happened on the driver side washer.
The only reason I can think of having this design is to protect against expansion should the washer liquid freeze inside the jet. Obviously, I ensure that I have the correct proportion of screen wash, but I suppose if one didn't use the screenwash frequently enough it could still be possible for some of the alcohol to evaporate and the solution freeze....
hi any one know if a car made in 1992 but registered in uk in 2005
does it affect the emmisions test many thanks Read more
best way to undo bolt with out slipping belt
and putting timing out.... Read more
Drilling out the bolt was an absolute sod,
Started small diameter and drilled in stages up to what was about 1/2 mm from the measured shank on the new bolt to a depth of just under the flange....
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Nothing to do with Ford-your gripe is with the dealer!