January 2010
Hi
I have been having an intermittent glow lights come on over the past few months. I have a 130k Mondeo Diesel Estate.
Issue Trigger - when i accelerate hard says come out of a roundabout at 20mph and put my foot to the floor the glow light comes on at between 2000rph in the 50-60mph range. The car then either goes into limp mode or cuts out which can be really scary on the motorway. The car resets itself after turning it on and off so I have found that if i take it easy up hills and don?t try and overtake anyone that i can just about jog the car along.
Brief recent History
April 09 replace camsensor
Sept 09 Glow light issue -- codes P1211 PO251 which suggests fuel issue - had garage check out everything re fuel issue. They said Fuel filter ok, injectors ok but I stopped short of replacing fuel pump as i was quoted £1200 but no guarantee of success.
Sept09 replaced crankshaft sensor helped but not solved the issue
Jan 10 Replace MAF and EGR
I have now found out that the MAF is triggering the glow light. I initially took it out to test and found that the car went perfectly. So i replaced with a new MAF but the problem still exists. So I can only assume that the MAF is a secondary issue. I then replaced the EGR as the value on the old one looked knackered. The car runs better which makes sense but the glow light issue came back within 1/2 an hour.
In the short term I can just disconnect the MAF sensor but I would really like to get to the bottom of this so any suggestions you can offer would be welcome.
Thanks in advance
Tom
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I can remember going around with a grimy shirt collar at school in the 50`s and thinking it was my fault.
But really it was all those smoky chimneys here up North - and on the LMS line - those great Austerity class steam trains stonking by at walking pace - pulling 150 coal trucks.
Auntie Nellie had a Ford Anglia then and considered it `advanced` - uncle John used to drive it past with the engine making that `we saved money making it` small car, bag of nails jingle. Maybe it was the tappets.
The 4pm `Streak` used to come over on the LNER and you cursed it if it was Silver Fox AGAIN. Or even worse Wild Swan.
Meanwhile - not far away - Auntie Ethel had the A60 with 6" of play in the steering and Uncle Bill twitched in his chair dreaming he was still a Commando.
You got taken to Bridlington in the A60 - whereupon the temperature always dropped 10c and your legs went red due to wearing short pants.
Giant `mushrooms` were once found growing under the little pre-fab holiday home - and the adults ate them with confidence - while I, aged 10yrs stood back and held my breath.
So what incidents can you remember from childhood? Read more
Either we never went anywhere??
or I cant remember? owt before about 1974 (when I was 15) a green Vauxhall Victor 2 litre with a high compression head needing 5 star.
I do remember Mum doing 80/90 odd when nipping over to Maghera to visit her mother.
Cars before that? absolutly NO idea, strange.
After one brief run as a learner driver in the Victor, once I was the age, it was put off the road. With approx 40,000 miles on it, the cost of petrol was probably also a factor alongwith my insurance.
Where it sat in a barn until about perhaps 5 years ago when the brother gave it away for a local enthuasist to restore.
Sigh
Hi
I got emmissions warnng light on & read the codes as 1612 & 1613.
I think those codes are for immobolizer & I can't understand why I have the emmissions light on?
Does anyone know what could be the problem?
Thanks Read more
and now not starting.
I think i've got air into the tank as when the engine is cold it won't start. Not sure how to remove the air from fuel system from the engine side.
I know glows are good etc as the car was running without problem, just a little fuel leak from the valve before I replaced it.
Fuel cut off valve was replaced because it was leaking.
Is there an easy way to get her started? Pumped the primer (tennis ball sized black pump left side of engine as you face it) which stays hard but refuses to start.
Started earlier when engine was warm but now its cold it refuses to start. Read more
Figures, no smoke = no fuel.
Strange how fate sometimes takes a hand.
Three months ago I was within a whisker of buying an MX5 with folding hard top, but it was not to be. Then came the pre Xmas snow & ice and I broadened my search for a convertible. Returning from holiday I followed up a 6 year old 330Ci which had been marooned at the bottom of an ice covered drive for several weeks. A fair price was offered, and duly accepted. Its a fair bit more refined than my previous Elise, and I shall be sad to say good bye to my current car which was bought to tide me over for 3 months some 27 months ago!
Lets hope for sunny skies and ice free roads from now on.
I may have to change my moniker...... Read more
think quite a few people dump their cars when they realise they are useless in mild winter weather <<
As has already been mentioned in other threads, it takes a certain type of mentality to buy a new car rather than simply put winter/all-weather tyres on the original car. Or even to wait 14 days and be back to normal again.
Ahhh BMW/Merc drivers 8)
My dear friend has been driving for more than 30 years but has only had a handful of cars. He does a fairly high annual mileage but keeps his cars until they are well and truly worn out. His current one, a large Volvo estate he has had from new is 17 years old and while mechanically sound and religiously maintained under the bonnet, it does outwardly look its age.
It has many a battle scar in its bodywork. A parking ding here, a scratch there, a hole in the rear bumper where he got too close to something or it got too close to him an unremembered number of years ago. Anything which took paint off has been crudely painted over but any dents are left as aide memoirs to be more careful in future. The interior while kept moderately clean by an annual mucking out is also careworn with seat fabrics torn here and there by long forgotten items of luggage or materials needed for some project or other. The drivers footwell carpet has long since worn out. It would never have occured to him to have used a mat and when it tore enough to start catching on his shoes he simply cut out the offending area beneath the pedals exposing the metal floor underneath.
It does get washed but apparently only every leap year if he remembers. As I mentioned earlier, it is kept serviced properly and is never to be seen with a duff bulb or a grumbling exhaust.
This neglect is not a function of wealth. He is a reasonably comfortably off individual and keeps his wife in new BMWs on a contrastingly regular basis. He just doesn't seem to care very much about his own cars appearance and treasures only its functionality.
I know such an attitude to cars is alien to most in the BR but I can't help admiring his pragmatism.
Maybe some of us care too much.
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My mondeo is pretty beaten up now, dents or scrapes on most panels but I really don't care.
Mechanically it's kept in excellent nick but I'm not fussed about it's appearance
the clutch on my voyager isnt work correctly. im struggling to get gears when the engine is running. i have checked the clutch cylinder and there doesnt appear to be any fluid leaks. please help. Read more
If its a sealed hydraulic unit there's not much you can do except change it, could be an internal seal allowing the pressure to drop.
Hi this is my first post and was just wondering if anyone had any advice.
In December I bought a brand new Suzuki Alto, at 42 I have never had a brand new car before and this was my pride and joy, I had saved hard and used my 10 year old Nissan Micra (under scrappage deal) to be able to afford car. Obviously it then snowed, and snowed and snowed so in fact I had only driven the car for approx. 3 weeks, the rest of the time it's sat on my drive nice and safe.
On Monday this week, no snow, no ice, decided I would take my new car out, that's when a Mitsubishi Shogun decided to plough into the back of me!!. Obvioulsy I had a huge amount of damaged, and if it hadn't been for the spare type in the boot, the dog would have been crushed.
Luckily police were passing at the time and the Shogun's driver admitted full liability. My car was undriveable. Having been taken by insurance companies garage they have now confirmed that they will be repairing the car.
Is there any way that I can contest this. The car has not even done 260 miles, and I don't want a brand new car back that I know has been in a major accident. I've been told that the insurance company will go upto 50% of the value of the car before they write it off, seeing what damage the Shogun has done I would be very surprised if the car can be repaired for £4000 can anyone help. Read more
Perhaps I'm being naive here, but every insurance policy I've had offers a brand new replacement vehicle if a new car is written off in the first year. So if yours does too then you actively want it to be written off!
Or maybe not all policies do this?
Ever since I've had my car (323i Touring), the revs have gone up and down at very low speed. If you're reversing, the revs go up and down, as if someone is blipping the throttle, even though your foot isn't moving on the accelerator. When you're moving forward slowly, as in a queue of traffic, the same happens. Occasionally I've stalled it as the revs have dipped.
I've lived with the problem so far and it doesn't affect the car in any other way, but I wonder if someone knows what causes it? Maybe the idle control valve? Or a glitch in the ECU program? Thanks for any suggestions. Read more
Thanks for that elekie&a/c doctor. If it gets worse I will look at the idle control valve.
Having problems with Focus zetec misfiring. Have changed the coil and leads, it run ok for a few days but the problem started up again. The engine management light has come back on. A neighbour had a fault code reader which came up as p2300 but its not listed in the book of codes that he has. Any ideas please? Read more
Hi,
This fault code relates to the primary circuit, the fault will almost certainly be the wiring from the relay (not to exclude the relay itself), the block connector on the ignition coil pack, or the wiring (less likely, but not impossible) from the block connector on the coil pack back to the PCM (Engine ECU). The first check would be to re-connect the block connector and take a voltage measurement on the feed coming into the coil pack with the engine running! Be careful to get the right terminal as there are some very high 'back voltages' if you choose the wrong terminal that will damage the test meter and you as well if you touch the probe during test!! The voltage measurement should be approximately source voltage which will be charge voltage with the engine running. It's OK if it's slightly lower for example charge voltage = 14.5 volts, actual voltage at block connector is 13.8 volts, this would still generate a good field in the coil....


hI. I am having a similar problem with the glow plug light coming on at un predictable times. it seems the glow plu light come on to warn of any fault - I an now getting an injector fuel metering code - have fitted two new air temperature sensors and new fuel filter but still doing it. the performance is improved but still the glow plug light comes on and sometimes it cuts out. Very un nerving as you say. Did you come to any concluusions.
Thanks