Hi Guys,

First time i`ve stripped an EGR system these 45 years or so..

There has been an oil leak from (somewhere - couldn`t see directly) under the combined cambox/EGR/inlet tract on our 1.9 (not JTD, the IDI) it was spitting oil at the radiator at speeds over 60mph.

Stripped it off and the part of the cover that seals the cambox seemed fine - also the breather pipe to the back of the crankcase was clear.

When I took off the air trunking to the air cleaner, the air cleaner end was spotless - but there was a about 10ml of engine oil pooled at the other end - where it enters the air intake part of the combined cover.
Took the EGR pipe of the EGR valve itelf and this was clean. Inside the intake system where it enters the inlet tract part of the cover ( and directly above the oil pooled in the lower air intake pipe) was covered in oil and what seemed like wet oil shale.. (That end of the EGR pipe was restricted to around half its normal bore, by a drier `shale`.

(the external leak seemed to be from an O ring in the combined cover - after the EGR pipe intake)

The individual inlet tracts were exposed at the back of the engine - these had obviously been taking in a wet oil shale substance - although they were not restricted.

Question is -- where is the oil coming from in the intake system, when the actual EGR valve was dry and a grey exhaust colour?

It uses no oil noticable oil between services and there is no turbo...


What do none turbo diesel EGR systems typically look like as they enter the inlet tracts?

Thanks!
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This car runs lovely, no problems whatsoever, but failed MOT due to slightly high CO, HC and Lambda. It read Fast Idle 3.3% CO, 233ppm HC and 0.90 Lambda. Last year and year before it showed similar problems, and on second measuring it would suddenly pass with all green, like a switch was turned on. We then assumed cold engine.
Now engine was warm enough and the problem would not go away.

I have no warning lights on my dash. It is model with a computer under passengers feet, so I cannot scan for any error codes.

All accessible engine compartment connectors were treated previously with contact fluid (Stabilant 22) and show no corrosion. There are no other contact or other problems.

I measured sensors with a digital multimeter:

MAF measured OK from 1 to 2 V.
IAT measured 30 kOhm at room temperature falling to 5 kOhm when heated, OK.
ECT measured 38 kOhm at room temperature falling to 3 kOhm in boiling water. This is different from Haynes or Chilton manual (2.5kOhm falling to 300Ohm), but I have another brand new sensor bought for this car and it measures the same as the one in the car, so I assume error in manuals., or change in sensors for 1998+ and not covered in manuals. Also when I disconnect this connector, the rad ventilator starts almost immediately (it probably reads this as overheating) when I connect back the ventilation stops.
O2S (front oxygen sensor) measured partly OK, the voltage being close to 0V when engine cold, and between 0.15V to 0.85V when hot, behaving as described in manuals, meaning oscillating. It steadied at 0.85V with connector off. The resistance of the heater element (this is 4 wire unit) cannot be measured, I believe this is dead. The sensor wires look good, not damaged or burned, flexible with intact sleeving. I couldn't get to rear sensor, if there is any.

There is 170,000 miles on the clock. The exhaust and catalyst are probably original, as there is no record of the change. There is a full service history until 3 years ago when I gave up on Mazda service centres, in disgust.

I would like to know what is the likely problem before taken to cleaners at Mazda service centre, as I tried all London ones over the last 10 years and was not happy.

Thanks for reading and contributing.
ayoshak

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I have lost my electronic ignition key, and have been quoted £200 for a replacement. As this is about a 1/4 of the value of the car I am reluctant to splash out on this, can any one advise over a cheaper alternative please ?

{W reg changed to 00 as the box asked for year of manufacture and NOT registration number} Read more

For decades I tended to get by with basic tools, despite doing major jobs in the `olden days`

Now though I`m tending to buy the vastly improved tools of modern times - the latest being one of those long rubber handled T40 drivers for Halfords. With the grip being rubber you can get a lot more torque on it , contrasted with the old shiny plastic handled, cheapo `stick the right bit in the end` job that has been in the box for far too long.

The same with more exotic bits of kit such as hose clip removers - where once I would have broken the old clip off and used a jubilee clip.

Modern tools are so good and you can buy things that never seemed available on accessory shop shelves in the 60`s.

Are you still adding or replacing tools, on a job by job basis like me? If so what are your latest acquisitions? Read more

hi,
a friend of mine has purchased a reversing camera kit,and i would like one for my campervan.can anyone advise me of the quality and value of this kit please?my friend lives in s.wales,so i can`t just`pop over`here`s the link:

8< SNIP - funny how the link had your email address associated with it. If you want to advertise on this site then please go through the proper channels and stop freeloading

www.honestjohn.co.uk/advertise/ads.htm

DD Read more