August 2009
This car runs lovely, no problems whatsoever, but failed MOT due to slightly high CO, HC and Lambda. It read Fast Idle 3.3% CO, 233ppm HC and 0.90 Lambda. Last year and year before it showed similar problems, and on second measuring it would suddenly pass with all green, like a switch was turned on. We then assumed cold engine.
Now engine was warm enough and the problem would not go away.
I have no warning lights on my dash. It is model with a computer under passengers feet, so I cannot scan for any error codes.
All accessible engine compartment connectors were treated previously with contact fluid (Stabilant 22) and show no corrosion. There are no other contact or other problems.
I measured sensors with a digital multimeter:
MAF measured OK from 1 to 2 V.
IAT measured 30 kOhm at room temperature falling to 5 kOhm when heated, OK.
ECT measured 38 kOhm at room temperature falling to 3 kOhm in boiling water. This is different from Haynes or Chilton manual (2.5kOhm falling to 300Ohm), but I have another brand new sensor bought for this car and it measures the same as the one in the car, so I assume error in manuals., or change in sensors for 1998+ and not covered in manuals. Also when I disconnect this connector, the rad ventilator starts almost immediately (it probably reads this as overheating) when I connect back the ventilation stops.
O2S (front oxygen sensor) measured partly OK, the voltage being close to 0V when engine cold, and between 0.15V to 0.85V when hot, behaving as described in manuals, meaning oscillating. It steadied at 0.85V with connector off. The resistance of the heater element (this is 4 wire unit) cannot be measured, I believe this is dead. The sensor wires look good, not damaged or burned, flexible with intact sleeving. I couldn't get to rear sensor, if there is any.
There is 170,000 miles on the clock. The exhaust and catalyst are probably original, as there is no record of the change. There is a full service history until 3 years ago when I gave up on Mazda service centres, in disgust.
I would like to know what is the likely problem before taken to cleaners at Mazda service centre, as I tried all London ones over the last 10 years and was not happy.
Thanks for reading and contributing.
ayoshak
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Hi, Advice please. I have a 53plate 530d, and i have recently been getting a loss of power at high revs and cloud of black smoke. Driving normally i get no smoke, just when i put my foot down. I recently changed my air filter, which was black and had remnants of oil or soot? Any ideas?? i've been told it might be crank bearing pressure filter or fuel filter???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks,
Col Read more
Many Thanks. Is this a lengthy job or is it quite accessable??
I have lost my electronic ignition key, and have been quoted £200 for a replacement. As this is about a 1/4 of the value of the car I am reluctant to splash out on this, can any one advise over a cheaper alternative please ?
{W reg changed to 00 as the box asked for year of manufacture and NOT registration number} Read more
These people will sort it for you.
www.autolocksmiths.net
Whilst coming to terms with all the gadgets and creature comforts which make driving easier I am thinking what you actually need on a car, what can you do without?
Do you need a rev counter or air con, heated seats and radios, turbos, multi changers cruise control etc etc. any market for a car with no frills? just the bits to make it go and stop and lights to show you the way at night. when its hot wind down windows and when its cold you just wear extra clothes. Read more
ABS has been a legal requirement since 2004.
For decades I tended to get by with basic tools, despite doing major jobs in the `olden days`
Now though I`m tending to buy the vastly improved tools of modern times - the latest being one of those long rubber handled T40 drivers for Halfords. With the grip being rubber you can get a lot more torque on it , contrasted with the old shiny plastic handled, cheapo `stick the right bit in the end` job that has been in the box for far too long.
The same with more exotic bits of kit such as hose clip removers - where once I would have broken the old clip off and used a jubilee clip.
Modern tools are so good and you can buy things that never seemed available on accessory shop shelves in the 60`s.
Are you still adding or replacing tools, on a job by job basis like me? If so what are your latest acquisitions? Read more
Pug the joke is a bit of the mechanics socket set fell off into the engine. Bloke comes back saying its making a rattle, the mechanics stray tool caused it.
I just wonder if anyone else has received a cold telephone call from a firm offering a car warranty ? this for a seven-year old car. A chap called earlier this evening, went through a load of spiel, told me he would send some information, then expected me to agree to a direct debit mandate. I?d let him go through his stuff but informed him that there was no way that I would set up a direct debit over the phone. I asked how he had found my contact details and details of the car and he said via insurers or the car dealer. When I asked which car dealer had given him the information, he hung up. It all seemed a bit fishy to me! Read more
I would never ever provide my bank details over the phone unless of course I
had instigated the call in the first place and know who I am dealing with.
>>
I love the way they call you and then ask your address! I ask them for their password. :)
hi,
a friend of mine has purchased a reversing camera kit,and i would like one for my campervan.can anyone advise me of the quality and value of this kit please?my friend lives in s.wales,so i can`t just`pop over`here`s the link:
8< SNIP - funny how the link had your email address associated with it. If you want to advertise on this site then please go through the proper channels and stop freeloading
www.honestjohn.co.uk/advertise/ads.htm
DD Read more
I am replacing the Manicat Catalytic Convertor on my daughters Ford Ka. It is broken off at the bottom end, under the engine where the flange connects to the exhaust.
I have managed to disconnect it from the engine at the manifold but it looks like I will have to remove the radiator to let it drop down.
Does anybody have any experience with changing these? I would appreciate any tips/info you might have.
Thanks
Don Read more
My daughter has an 05 reg Megane 1.9 DCi estate which has suddenly decided that it does not acknowledge the start key being in the slot. We have tried cleaning the card, its internal bettery but with no success. All we get is a message saying insert card. One thing we have noticed is that the casing of the card is cracked/split. Could this be a cause? Trouble is we have a spare card but can not find it at present. Are they dear?
Any feedback would be appreciated. Read more
Sorted!!! Managed to find the spare key and the car started first go. However I did call the local Renault dealer who advised that a replacement key would cost £130 and could take 5-10 days.
So the motto is, if you have keyless start, do not drop your key and if you do, at least know where the spare is.
Thanks again Simon.
My jeep was parked one morning and in the afternoon it would not start, checked for spark and there isn't one. The commonest problem I've seen with these is the crank sensor although this did seem a bit all of a sudden as there was now warning or other problems leading up to it. fuel pump primes and engine turns over fine.
I read somewhere that you can get the fault codes on your dash but not sure any help would be appreciated. I have checked relay's fuses and ordinary stuff.
Please help
Cheers Read more
On the manual engines the sensor is above the front propshaft in the bellhousing as it takes a reading off the flywheel. Very common problem. If the sensor is OK when you crank the engine the ecu will know that the engine is rotating and switch on the fuelpump, so listen for the pump when cranking engine.
Browse
check the 02 sensor feed wires, should have 12v and an earth from ecu, if you have that then you need to test the resistance through the heater circuit on the sensor, if its open cicuit ie no resistance then bin it, you can bench test the o2 sensor but if the heater circuit is open then there is no point, dont be tempted to buy a cheap replacement get a decent one preferably a bosch if they do one for your model (dont be tempted by the ones on the auction website, lots of very impressive poor quality copy's) if you do replace the o2 sensor dont expect an instantanious result as the ecu will need to recover/relearn, give it a run around mixed driving mainly in town then get it back on a emmision tester, check very carfully for airleaks split pipes etc as well'Regards TB