August 2009
I am replacing the Manicat Catalytic Convertor on my daughters Ford Ka. It is broken off at the bottom end, under the engine where the flange connects to the exhaust.
I have managed to disconnect it from the engine at the manifold but it looks like I will have to remove the radiator to let it drop down.
Does anybody have any experience with changing these? I would appreciate any tips/info you might have.
Thanks
Don Read more
My daughter has an 05 reg Megane 1.9 DCi estate which has suddenly decided that it does not acknowledge the start key being in the slot. We have tried cleaning the card, its internal bettery but with no success. All we get is a message saying insert card. One thing we have noticed is that the casing of the card is cracked/split. Could this be a cause? Trouble is we have a spare card but can not find it at present. Are they dear?
Any feedback would be appreciated. Read more
My jeep was parked one morning and in the afternoon it would not start, checked for spark and there isn't one. The commonest problem I've seen with these is the crank sensor although this did seem a bit all of a sudden as there was now warning or other problems leading up to it. fuel pump primes and engine turns over fine.
I read somewhere that you can get the fault codes on your dash but not sure any help would be appreciated. I have checked relay's fuses and ordinary stuff.
Please help
Cheers Read more
On the manual engines the sensor is above the front propshaft in the bellhousing as it takes a reading off the flywheel. Very common problem. If the sensor is OK when you crank the engine the ecu will know that the engine is rotating and switch on the fuelpump, so listen for the pump when cranking engine.
Cars service today - none!
Pierre our head mechanic is suspended for letting his great great Grandaughter change the oil on his motor - eze only an 11 year old girl -- sacre bleu!
Further more `e as failed in ze risk assessment of `developing conkers`. These are located in a tree across the road from our garage and we are fearful in ze anglo forum (thank you) way of them hitting us like ze doodlebug or bullet.
Pierre should have known better and will now wear his wartime helmet when crossing the road to work on ze small British Unmentionable - with ze snail shape - rust scab and seized in pluggies.
Goodnight
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Pierre is now in ze Bastille for 5 days - following ze last nights (deleted) posting on ze forum of ze oil change practices ,`er in our Garage..
Not at all bad actually. I quite like the looks, but the important thing from the user's point of view is the proportions. The tall hunched stance gives the interior a spacious feel, not entirely imaginary as there is decent rear footroom. Leather and suede upholstery and trim, heated seats with electric height adjustment on the driver's side, shiny chrome-finish wheels and many bells and whistles came for the original 18k price (phew!). Short bonnet and high floor make it feel a bit like a Transit.
It's running sweetly at 55,000 miles, distinctly better after being booted a bit on the road, but a slight fluffiness from time to time suggests that new plugs and leads might not be a bad idea. These come in cheap and expensive options, and there's a coil pack - also a bit dear - which is supposed to give a couple of extra horses. K&N air filter might be another sensible change. The car runs quietly enough, although not silently, but will only pick up its skirts and hustle along with a fair amount of foot. A zipmobile it isn't, but a couple more horses and cleaner running could reduce its thirst while sweetening its driveabilty.
It does about 24 or 25 mpg in London and about 34 on the road. Last 290-odd miles, 170 or more in London, it returned 29.25 mpg. After paying 47 quid to fill the tank I realised that the amount was a bit under ten gallons... a slight shock, that. I still haven't done a long motorway trip on cruise.
All in all I quite like the thing. Its 2 litre engine is less intrinsically refined than the Ford 16v in my other car and its soft suspension and low front end mean it can scrape its chin on the road coming off speed bumps, forcing one to mimse. As bell boy warned me, it has a lousy turning circle. It rolls more than the Ford too, but it handles all right in a working-class mid-Atlantic way. You wouldn't want to get it sideways. The nicest things about it are the controls, trim, doorhandles and so on. It's a pleasure to open a thick, solid door with a big solid chromed handle and button and climb up into it. Driving it after that, gearchange apart, is a slight let-down, but you can't have everything.
I am still unused to the higher profile it gives one on the road and the ambiguous sort of respectability it confers. Much aftermarket bling is available for it but it doesn't seem to need that. Indeed I would prefer the wheels to be anodised black or something. However it had got a bit muddy so I actually washed it by hand the other day. Am I going gaga? Read more
Yes, the Cruiser would be nicer with more engine and more cylinders. Is there a V6 one?
The 2 litre will deliver some poke, but it's at relatively high rpm and a tiny bit strained sounding. Comes in from about 3,500 and improves over 4,000. But it isn't very pleasant driving it like that. Something lazy with low end torque wouldn't necessarily be much thirstier these days. PU said the one he hired in the US sounded like a six. I wonder if it was?
I suspect the front suspension bushes are a weak point on the Cruiser.
Does anybody know if the chankshaft pulley bolt on the petrol version is left or right handed thread Read more
Vin,
Thanks, have engine out now to start stripping. Cheers
I have a year 2000 Boxster, which has spent its life under the main dealer and extended main dealer warrantys. Basically it hasn't wanted for anything. Its had all its stamps and checks carried out to the bodywork. So I was horrified to find rust blistering around the door catch. As my car was going into the mian dealer for its major service I asked them to look at it and file a claim. The paint hasn't broken and its clearly rusting from inside out. I also found an article in 911 & Porsche World, December 2002. which shows that their had been problems with this area and that they had changed to a soft gasket between the body and catch.The problem was noted as being prone to cars between 1998 and 2001 at random. The author Peter Morgan had had the paintwork restored under a claim agaianst Porsche's Long-Life Warranty. as my car still has a year of the warranty to run, i didn't see a problem. But i was wrong, customer services at reading have rejected the claim and say its not covered, despite their being a known problem and never getting the dealer to fit softs gaskets when it next had a service.I've asked for the reasons why in writing, basically the chap called Richard reckons anything that comes into contatc with the body ain't covered. Even though its Porsches materials and fitments. I wouldn't expect to find rust in any car , let alone a Porsche and can't understand why the claim is rejected. Does anybody else have any experience or advice, I don't intend to let this matter go lighlty, but am not sure where I can go from here, but basically it dosn't seem like the warranty that Porsche has on its body is worth the paper its written on, and theirs seem no purpose to getting the main dealer to look after the car and collect body stamp checks each year.
whats the thoughts? Read more
Most manufacturers don't seem to want to honour corrosion warranties and will try to wriggle out of them at every opportunity. I had personal experience of this on 2 cars I owned. They seem to take the view that the car will never rust from the inside out and their paintwork is never faulty.
Even if you can prove that 100% of the cars sold rust in a particular area, from the inside out, they still will argue the point, regardless of how many warranty repairs they have had to make!
It's crap isn't it and with a car being one of the most expensive items we ever purchase, the consumer laws are very weak in relation to the items cost. You get more protection buying a £15 electrical item from Argos than you do a car!
Perhaps let your main dealer know that unless he helps you get this resolved, he won't be seeing your car again.....because you will take it to a (much cheaper) independent Porche specialist. They made a lot of money out of you over the last 10 years....time for some payback.
The car has a bizzare noise from somewhere at the front of the car. We can't work out which side it is coming from. It sounds like some sort of resonance. The noise is not present when the engine is under load. If cruising along in neutral, the noise is likely to be there, and is sometimes affected by steering. engine speed does not affect the noise. It is only present above about 35mph. The noise is a fixed frequency, i.e. it doesn't vary with speed changes.
There is very slight play in the inner n/s cv joint, and the boot has a pin prick leak of oil. Is this joint lubed from the box? Could the cv joint be the cause of the noise? Is the box running low on lube? If yes to either of these scenarios, why is the noise constant and not speed dependant?
Any other suggestions for the cause of the noise?
Many thanks! Read more
Hmmmmm final drive maybe? Any suggestions on how I could confirm/disprove that theory? trasmission feels ok while driving.
I only ask following the purchase of a pot of touch-up for the CC3.
Clearly marked on the carton is a 'use by' date of December, 2009.
The paint won't go off after that, surely?
I don't think it's been stuck on the Ford dealer's shelf for years, either.
Blue de Cina only appears on the CC3 - very exclusive vehicle, you know - and the dealer had to order it in.
Incidentally, it's an 18ml twin pack of paint and lacquer and was only £8 - cheaper than the accessory shop.
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I touch up my metallic silver car with a few drips of silver mixed with an equal number of drips from the clear laquer brush, (both out of date, but Im not drinking it). Applied with a cocktail stick gives a reasonable finish and a good colour match.
Hi , the airconditioning on my cruiser is producing a musty smell and isnt working properly ..A garage tried to repressurise the system and failed . It might be a blocked pipe but it could be that the compressor has packed in.
If the former it could be three to four hours work and if the latter it could cost over a £1000 for a new compressor etc. Does anybody out there have experience of similar
faults and possible cures. Or know of a good source of cheap compressors!!
Thanks
{header ameded to include brief summary of question being asked} Read more
Hi
What switch? Can't think what switch that would make the pressure high.
Does your cooling fan work then as soon as you turn on your air con?
On the side of your dealer plugs and leads are a common fault for misfires and there is a software flash to help improve this.


Sorted!!! Managed to find the spare key and the car started first go. However I did call the local Renault dealer who advised that a replacement key would cost £130 and could take 5-10 days.
So the motto is, if you have keyless start, do not drop your key and if you do, at least know where the spare is.
Thanks again Simon.