August 2009
My father in law has a Mk1 Mondeo 2.0 GLX Auto 48k FSH.
It has a 12 month MoT and SORN.
It cannot be traded in for scrappage as it is in his name and he will never need
another car. Indeed he may never drive this one again either.
Does anyone have a suggestion for maximising it's value other than simply
selling for best price?
I have read the FAQ here and probably answered my own question but any
suggestions appreciated!
Read more
There was a thread, on the TDI Forum about engine oil and PD engines. (In the lube section) An attempt was made to gather information - something like as below.
I thought it may be interesting, to do similar on the range of cars owned by forum members ( not just PD)
CAR
OIL/S USED (oil heath history ;-)
MANUFACTURERS SPEC
CHANGE INTERVAL
OIL RELATED ISSUES
The idea was to cut and paste the above into a new post and then write answers. It was a struggle - people drifted off from the format.
But a tentative picture started to emerge. (for the PD)
1) That use of a 5w30 (or 0W30) oil was a possible indicator of cam damage
2) That cars that had multiple oils - different at every change - also an indicator
The latter is interesting. Did motorists who took vacillated across a range of oils often returning to what they had in originally, take less care on the specs?
I can`t remember the intervals.
A little entertainment?
Regards Read more
CAR: Honda Accord VTEC 2.0 02 Reg.
OIL/S USED: Purchased from main dealer at 9,000 miles. Dealer used Mobil S 10/40 semi-syn but I specified Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/30 for first service (see 'oil related issues' for how that turned out!).
Back to Mobil S for next few services, then dealer switched to Castrol Magnatec 10/40 semi, then went back to Mobil S.
In between dealer services, I used various suitable 10/40 semis for changes including Duckhams (once), Coma (once), Halfords (once)
Last two services (indy) used GM 10/40 semi.
MANUFACTURERS SPEC: 10/40 semi-synthetic to ACEA A3/B3
CHANGE INTERVAL: Changed oil and filter at half Honda's recommended intervals - ie 4,500 rather than 9,000 miles.
OIL RELATED ISSUES: Knowing more about my car than the company that made it (Ho Ho!) I insisted on Mobil 1 for the first service after purchase. The already tappety VTEC promptly began to sound like an old tractor. Honda, Swindon told me to go straight back to 10/40 semi, as specified. Suitably chastened, I did just that.
Since then no issues. Never needed a drop of oil, currently at 67,000 miles.
So, having forked out to have a tow bar fitted to the Golf, and getting a Thule Ride On 3 bike carrier, I loaded it up this morning and took self and wifey off to Southend seafront.
The whole sh'bang was easy to fit, tighten and load/fix bikes onto and we then drove off,
Ye G*ds, my eyes were on stalks watching the rear view mirror. Not being proficient in physics, I had no confidence that it would not end in calamity with bikes and carrier crashing into the road behind me if I went over a hump, lump or matchstick.
Even though I tightened the 1 bolt that holds the whole thing onto the tow ball, tighter than Mr Tight from Tight Town.....................I still worried about it.
By the time I got to Southend my nerves were shot. I checked it all over and all was still tight. On way back, I felt a lot better and it still seemed solid as a rock when we got back.
I marvel at how the whole thing hangs on the tow ball with just one bolt. Magic. Read more
After a useless 'hanging-off-the-back' type carrier that swivelled from its straps, I finally shelled out for a tow-bar mounted Atera Strada 2. I was a bit nervous at first, having never really got my head round how the thing could positively clamp onto a ball designed for a 'ball and socket' type of joint - however, I wish I'd got one years ago! The device locks onto the hitch, and the bikes are locked onto the carrier.
I'd never recommend the 'hanging-off-the-back' type. A friend had one on her Corsa and it pulled the metal up on the hatch forming two 'air scoops'.
I have been driving for 23 years so no doubt have developed a lot of bad habits. However have never had a point on my licence and never had as much as a bump so like to think that I am maybe not too bad a driver!
My 11 year old son is car daft and I am slowly preparing him for the real world of driving - not the Ferrari world that he lives in!
So when we are out cycling I tell him to watch for the signs, read the road traffic, switch down gears on his bikes approaching junctions etc.
This has now developed to when we are in the car and the journey is appropriate, he sometimes does the gear change for me. Ok maybe people will shoot me down in flames for this but its done in a controlled manner.
However as a result of this, and various questions he has, can anyone answer the following:
How do you slow down to a junction? In my day we had to go down through the gears, but has it now changed to just using brakes and maybe changing down just before car stops?
Is it still totally stationery for a STOP sign, but don't need to stop for Give Way?
Is it still a no no to change gear during a manoeuvre like going round a roundabout?
At traffic lights, do you sit with handbrake on and in neutral or in first gear? I tried the neutral bit, only putting it into gear when lights changed and felt it had taken ages to get away!
Any other tips and any useful web links that give these sort of answers without having to go through the full highway code!
Read more
BobbyG - your son could learn to drive under supervision with the Under-17 car club
www.under17-carclub.co.uk/
Both my children were members of this club which provides a fantastic opportunity for kids to learn about cars in a safe environment. Cost is very low - you will use your own car.
I would also recommend that you go to RoSPA or IAM to get rid of your 'bad' habits
Hi people, my once trusty 90 309 1.8td has developed an interesting issue. After sitting in traffic on facing down on a steep hill I noticed lots of white smoke coming out the exhaust.
Once back on the flat and moving, after the final dump of white smoke everything clears and all I then get is the normal soot if I give it some welly.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be the cause (and even a solution)?
It is booked in with my mechanic for Wednesday for a checkup, but I wanted to get an idea before then. Current suggestions appear to be HG failure (v expensive to fix I'm told), or stem seals (Head off, so v expensive)
If this turns out to require an expensive fix then I would have a lot of trouble trying to justify spending any more on it, which will annoy me as I really like the car - averageing between 53 and 59 mpg all the time is something I am reluctant to give up easily!
Thanks Read more
Well she's fixed and not smoking - result!
Haven't paid quite yet, but was quoted 158 pounds which is a darn site cheaper than a new car! Looks like I'll be sticking with the old tractor for a while yet.
I was there when my friendly mechanic was doing it and it was a right fiddly job with little bolts, springs and a plunger bit that kept dropping out and disappearing into the engine bay. Quite glad I didn't have a go myself although it was only a couple of rubber circley flappy bits that were at fault (hole through the middle of them had gotten a bit bigger) and it all looked temptingly easy. Oh how many times have I said that...
Now just have to wait and see what Novembers MOT brings!
i have a r reg 2.1 diesel. it started fine this morning and run well.
i parked up for about 30 mins and now it will not start turns over fine.
has anyone got any ideas please Read more
Can you pump up the fuel system with the bulb? Does it have a cut out switch? (n/s suspension turret) Does it have a keypad and is this doing anything weird? Have you been trying to run it on anything non-dinosaur? Did you try the other key? Could be the transponder pick up on the ignition key barrel, although they tend to get temperamental first. Is there power getting to the glowplugs?
...when small, lightweight and cheap CCTV systems with a dash mounted screen could easily be fitted as standard?
Panoramic rear view with no need for adjustment, no blind spots and no ears sticking out of the doors to create wind drag and get knocked off.
On the other hand, maybe I think too much...
Read more
Re electric brakes, I found this -
thefraserdomain.typepad.com/energy/2006/04/it_is_a...l
horsepowersports.com/electronic-wedge-brakes-signa.../
I had the pleasure to have an early C220 CDI, [5th merc, and there will no 6th] at last the car gave in and died it was a long and chronic illness, just a few of the conditions of the german disease, more new tyres than all my previous cars, heating packed up [plastic parts inside broke], ventilar packed up, nav system never ever worker properly, had enoug on 2 cd in the car, during the second dics playing it was hot enough to fry eggs, door rubbers came out at wil, roof rail covers detached and were attached a least twice a year, front spring failed mot, rear wheel axel is close to failure, and now the automatic gearbox has packed in and the care does't even start anymor
During all these wondersful events, MG gave zero support or took part of the cost on their account, a dealer I do know better said off the record this was a series that never should have been sold as the quality was 100% sheisse [cost savings under Herrn Schremp] So I have decided, I do like the new E class and would like to buy one, but as matter of principle will not let MB get their hands on my hard earned cash, the E seems to be a good car, but the last years was not a pleasure, so I am now visiting other showrooms,
rdam
SLT Read more
My German bird (prussian actually) had a 230 CE auto mercedestalk.net/archive/1981-mercedes-benz-230ce-...n
from new in 83, sold it to an Israeli in 97 with 1/4 million miles on the clock, she then bought a new 250 Elegance ------------------> CARP!
Their advertising states:
By leaving the pistons in the optimum position, the restart is always smooth.
Any idea what it means and how they achieve it, or is it just advertising hyperbole? Read more
I could take an allowance but still choose the company car option for peace of mind and hassle free driving.
Since you are a beneficiary of the company car system, then it is hardly surprising that you are in favour of it, is it? What you are basically saying is, "I'm all right Jack" to all those of us who don't have access to a new subsidised company car.
Don't buy an ex company car then. And pay for a lower mileage car that was private.
Company cars have taken an ever increasing proportion of new car sales over the last thirty or so years. From memory the last set of figures that I saw said 70% of new cars were to fleets. So the proportion of ex-private cars has decreased. (Basic Maths)
Can anyone help with the cause of the ESP light coming on then the engine cutting out. Sometimes it will restart straight away but sometimes you have to wait up to to 30minutes for it to restart. It keeps happening on the motorway or dual carriageway. It has been in the ford garage once but they could not find the problem. Any ideas? Read more
Browse
.jpg)
Not necessarily. Price up an exhaust and 4 tyres for a Mondeo versus a Fiesta.