August 2009
hi i have just had a towbar fitted to my 1997 406 2.1 td can any one tell how it should be attached to the car as it bolted through the spare wheel well and behind the bumper will this be capable of towing a caravan or not lokked at some one else car and its bolted to the chassi and looks safer thanks bryn Read more
I had the use of a basic KA while My Mondeo II was beeing serviced.
Although it seemed quite peppy I did not like it.
The trendy white rims of dash gave awful reflections in the screen and windows.
The non matt centre section on top of the dash reflected in the middle of the screen.
That was before it even moved! I found the footwell was cramped and my smallish feet fouled the centre bodywork.
Seats were OK as was the gearbox.
The the road noise was not good, a constant drumming at all speeds - choice of tyres?
I accept I am used to larger cars - Focus, Yaris , Mondeo but I would not be in the marker for this little Fiat.
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I had the use of a basic KA while My Mondeo II was beeing serviced.
I would not be in the marker for this little Fiat.
Neither would anyone else Henry ;-)
For the great majority of people driving is a chore and the car is no more than a wheeled washing machine, a domestic appliance. However, I'm sure that among most members of the backroom, there is a deeper appreciation of motoring and its nicities and perhaps even a genuine enthusiasm for driving. For the most part though, driving is indeed a chore and nothing more than a means of getting where you are going. Heavy traffic, dull roads, boring cars and general stress ensure as much.
It seems to me that for those who find it possible to derive pleasure from driving, it is best to have a separate car for recreational use. The trouble is, what form does this 'recreation' take? Discuss the relative merits of; owning a classic that can be enjoyed on Sundays and taken to shows etc, owning a pukka performance/sports car eg elise/boxster et al, getting involved in some kind of club level motorsport eg national saloons/FFord/stage rallys etc or simply having a track day toy like a caterham/ex-race car to throw on a trailer of a Sunday morning. Read more
>>>Their motto seems to be "Happiness is ignorance is bliss"<<<
Being an ex biker, I drive 'on the defensive' and can see potential accidents before they happen (usually) 'Young bloods' have always been fearless with an "it won't happen to me" attitude ... until :-(
My car is a 1999 Ford Focus 1.8 (petrol) which has done 81k miles.
Yesterday whilst I was driving and doing about 40-50 mph I changed down from 5th to 4th gear and as I attempted to do so I heard a grinding noise like when you don't shift it properly. I have a suspicion that the reason I heard a grinding type noise as I attempted to find 4th gear is because I may have accidentally briefly engaged reverse gear (!) so I am quite concerned that I may have done serious damage to the gearbox.
Do you think damage now or later is likely from this sort of mistake ? Read more
I've done that probably once or twice in every car I've owned at some point (11 cars of various ages and makes over 12 years) and have never had any gearbox problems. Given some of them a good grind sometimes too.
Mike.
"if you can't find it, grind it!"
On the M8 last week there was a car transporter on hard shoulder with 2 cars behind it, one facing the wrong way and the mechanic working on the transporter round about the rear wheel area.
Obviously they have had to remove the last 2 cars to access or fix the problem but wondering what sort of problem would this have been?
Surely not needed to fix a puncture?
GB, presume you have had experience of this - any clues? Read more
I like it!
My father in law has a Mk1 Mondeo 2.0 GLX Auto 48k FSH.
It has a 12 month MoT and SORN.
It cannot be traded in for scrappage as it is in his name and he will never need
another car. Indeed he may never drive this one again either.
Does anyone have a suggestion for maximising it's value other than simply
selling for best price?
I have read the FAQ here and probably answered my own question but any
suggestions appreciated!
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The reason Rattle is that people are idiots.
They think cheap car and they think tax insurance petrol etc.
But the fact of the matter is that (a) larger cars are cheaper than smaller
ones (due to the above) and (b) small cars are not built to last.
Not necessarily. Price up an exhaust and 4 tyres for a Mondeo versus a Fiesta.
There was a thread, on the TDI Forum about engine oil and PD engines. (In the lube section) An attempt was made to gather information - something like as below.
I thought it may be interesting, to do similar on the range of cars owned by forum members ( not just PD)
CAR
OIL/S USED (oil heath history ;-)
MANUFACTURERS SPEC
CHANGE INTERVAL
OIL RELATED ISSUES
The idea was to cut and paste the above into a new post and then write answers. It was a struggle - people drifted off from the format.
But a tentative picture started to emerge. (for the PD)
1) That use of a 5w30 (or 0W30) oil was a possible indicator of cam damage
2) That cars that had multiple oils - different at every change - also an indicator
The latter is interesting. Did motorists who took vacillated across a range of oils often returning to what they had in originally, take less care on the specs?
I can`t remember the intervals.
A little entertainment?
Regards Read more
CAR: Honda Accord VTEC 2.0 02 Reg.
OIL/S USED: Purchased from main dealer at 9,000 miles. Dealer used Mobil S 10/40 semi-syn but I specified Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/30 for first service (see 'oil related issues' for how that turned out!).
Back to Mobil S for next few services, then dealer switched to Castrol Magnatec 10/40 semi, then went back to Mobil S.
In between dealer services, I used various suitable 10/40 semis for changes including Duckhams (once), Coma (once), Halfords (once)
Last two services (indy) used GM 10/40 semi.
MANUFACTURERS SPEC: 10/40 semi-synthetic to ACEA A3/B3
CHANGE INTERVAL: Changed oil and filter at half Honda's recommended intervals - ie 4,500 rather than 9,000 miles.
OIL RELATED ISSUES: Knowing more about my car than the company that made it (Ho Ho!) I insisted on Mobil 1 for the first service after purchase. The already tappety VTEC promptly began to sound like an old tractor. Honda, Swindon told me to go straight back to 10/40 semi, as specified. Suitably chastened, I did just that.
Since then no issues. Never needed a drop of oil, currently at 67,000 miles.
So, having forked out to have a tow bar fitted to the Golf, and getting a Thule Ride On 3 bike carrier, I loaded it up this morning and took self and wifey off to Southend seafront.
The whole sh'bang was easy to fit, tighten and load/fix bikes onto and we then drove off,
Ye G*ds, my eyes were on stalks watching the rear view mirror. Not being proficient in physics, I had no confidence that it would not end in calamity with bikes and carrier crashing into the road behind me if I went over a hump, lump or matchstick.
Even though I tightened the 1 bolt that holds the whole thing onto the tow ball, tighter than Mr Tight from Tight Town.....................I still worried about it.
By the time I got to Southend my nerves were shot. I checked it all over and all was still tight. On way back, I felt a lot better and it still seemed solid as a rock when we got back.
I marvel at how the whole thing hangs on the tow ball with just one bolt. Magic. Read more
After a useless 'hanging-off-the-back' type carrier that swivelled from its straps, I finally shelled out for a tow-bar mounted Atera Strada 2. I was a bit nervous at first, having never really got my head round how the thing could positively clamp onto a ball designed for a 'ball and socket' type of joint - however, I wish I'd got one years ago! The device locks onto the hitch, and the bikes are locked onto the carrier.
I'd never recommend the 'hanging-off-the-back' type. A friend had one on her Corsa and it pulled the metal up on the hatch forming two 'air scoops'.
I have been driving for 23 years so no doubt have developed a lot of bad habits. However have never had a point on my licence and never had as much as a bump so like to think that I am maybe not too bad a driver!
My 11 year old son is car daft and I am slowly preparing him for the real world of driving - not the Ferrari world that he lives in!
So when we are out cycling I tell him to watch for the signs, read the road traffic, switch down gears on his bikes approaching junctions etc.
This has now developed to when we are in the car and the journey is appropriate, he sometimes does the gear change for me. Ok maybe people will shoot me down in flames for this but its done in a controlled manner.
However as a result of this, and various questions he has, can anyone answer the following:
How do you slow down to a junction? In my day we had to go down through the gears, but has it now changed to just using brakes and maybe changing down just before car stops?
Is it still totally stationery for a STOP sign, but don't need to stop for Give Way?
Is it still a no no to change gear during a manoeuvre like going round a roundabout?
At traffic lights, do you sit with handbrake on and in neutral or in first gear? I tried the neutral bit, only putting it into gear when lights changed and felt it had taken ages to get away!
Any other tips and any useful web links that give these sort of answers without having to go through the full highway code!
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BobbyG - your son could learn to drive under supervision with the Under-17 car club
www.under17-carclub.co.uk/
Both my children were members of this club which provides a fantastic opportunity for kids to learn about cars in a safe environment. Cost is very low - you will use your own car.
I would also recommend that you go to RoSPA or IAM to get rid of your 'bad' habits
Hi people, my once trusty 90 309 1.8td has developed an interesting issue. After sitting in traffic on facing down on a steep hill I noticed lots of white smoke coming out the exhaust.
Once back on the flat and moving, after the final dump of white smoke everything clears and all I then get is the normal soot if I give it some welly.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be the cause (and even a solution)?
It is booked in with my mechanic for Wednesday for a checkup, but I wanted to get an idea before then. Current suggestions appear to be HG failure (v expensive to fix I'm told), or stem seals (Head off, so v expensive)
If this turns out to require an expensive fix then I would have a lot of trouble trying to justify spending any more on it, which will annoy me as I really like the car - averageing between 53 and 59 mpg all the time is something I am reluctant to give up easily!
Thanks Read more
Well she's fixed and not smoking - result!
Haven't paid quite yet, but was quoted 158 pounds which is a darn site cheaper than a new car! Looks like I'll be sticking with the old tractor for a while yet.
I was there when my friendly mechanic was doing it and it was a right fiddly job with little bolts, springs and a plunger bit that kept dropping out and disappearing into the engine bay. Quite glad I didn't have a go myself although it was only a couple of rubber circley flappy bits that were at fault (hole through the middle of them had gotten a bit bigger) and it all looked temptingly easy. Oh how many times have I said that...
Now just have to wait and see what Novembers MOT brings!
Browse
The better tow-bar manufacturers liaise with the vehicle makers and all modern towbars have to be "e" marked anyway for which considerable testing of the bar and mountings is required.