July 2009
The brake lights on my wife?s Peugeot 307 (06 registration) are only intermittently coming on.
I have bought new bulbs and installed them, I have checked the bulbs in the brake light strip at the top of the hatchback and they are all working. When they DO work all three come on (strip at top and brake lights), when they don?t work NONE of them come on.
Cables look OK as per the garage. However, a bloke in a local garage to work told me that there is a switch by the front passenger door somewhere that may have been knocked but as yet I have not had a chance to check this.
As I mentioned they are only intermittently coming on.
Any ideas please?. as it?s a bit dangerous considering she does the school run with the kids in the back and I reckon it?s only a matter of time before some bonehead drives into the back of her?
Thanks
Keith McCormack Read more
Hi,
I have a V50 which is still in warranty and has a intermittent loss of power fault, perhaps every 500 miles.
The symptoms are:
1) Driving along normally - say 60ish in 5th gear,
2) You accelerate, and as you are accelerating suddenly the engine power just disappears - but no warning lights, messages etc.
3) Back off the revs, engine power comes back so you can maintain speed, however if you start to accelerate again and demand more power, again the engine power will disappear
4) This will perhaps happen 5 - 20x if you keep repeating the above sequence but then the car returns to normal and all the power you can want (without needing to stop the engine). Then it won't happen for another month or so.
Now last time this happened (nice straight bit of the fosse way!), I noted that at the same point the engine lost power you could hear a sound of releasing air (a bit like when you release a pump from a tyre) coming from the engine compartment area.
I took the car into the main dealer where I bought it from and no fault codes. They inspected various parts (not sure what) but the summary was bring it back when it becomes repeatable.
The position I am in at the moment with Volvo is that they can't fix it until it happens often or it logs a fault code. Its not doing either!!
Any thoughts on what the problem may be, or how I get the garage to be more helpful than 'there's no fault code, we can't fix it'.
I am concerned I will be left high and dry by Volvo if the warranty runs out and this is still happening.
Thanks in advance,
Martin Butcher Read more
Well, the car has been in today and had new software loaded in the engine management unit and the DPF filter regenerated.
Volvo have also confirmed that a new EGR valve was fitted before we bought the car.
Let's hope this has done some good.
my car is nearly 63322 mile drive.i never changed timeing belt.can you give one clue howmany miles i need change belt,
ta Read more
It should be changed as it's overdue.
Every 6 years / 60,000 miles (whichever comes sooner) for the Z18XE engine.
Also budget in a water pump change as well.
I'm sure this is a very obvious question and I should know the answer. If a named driver has an accident and claims, the named driver obviously has to declare it when they get their own insurance, but does the owner of the car also lose NCB. In this case own car not damaged but relatively minor damge to other car caused when named driver was at the wheel. Read more
Use one or more of the comparison websites - there are useful savings to be made.
But not all companies are on these - for example DirectLine. I have no connection with Direct Line.
Guys,
I have recently purchased a secondhand car due to being made redundant and having to give back my company car. I'm hopeful I will only have this car for 3-4 months max and then I'll get another job with a company car.
Anyway, I was cleaning the car today and noticed a small chip in the windscreen, it's no more than 1 cm long and probably 1mm, maybe 2mm deep. I only have the car TPF&T insured due to it's value and therefore have no windscreen cover.
I've checked with the well know windscreen repairers online and a chip repair is 'from £69.95'. Seems expensive to me but there you go.
Looking on Ebay, you can get windcreen self repair kits for circa £10. I assume these are just resin kits that fill the hole to stop it cracking any more. The chip is hidden behind the rear view mirror as I'm in the driving seat and cannot be seen, therefore does not affect my view in any way.
I don't want the chip to get bigger and the result is that I have to get a complete new screen. Hopefully I'll only have the car a short time and I could really do without this expense.
Are these £10 kits OK just to stop it getting bigger? Like I said, I can't even see the chip from the drivers seat as it is hidden by the rear view mirror.
Any experiences of these kits are most welcome.
Thanks Read more
For what it's worth, here's what Halfords say about their repair kit. tinyurl.com/mcpzso
The parking sensors have gone on my 05 plate xtype. I think it may be the fuse. How do i know which fuse to replace?
thanks
Moved over from Discussion Read more
The Parking aid has a dedicated fuse, so reversing lights will probably still work.
Self Service Garage, an interesting idea, was on Fifth Gear the other day.
Would you use these facilities if there was a garage available near you ?
tinyurl.com/nn5rb8 Read more
That is correct they will offer advice, and be helpful, but it is up to you to repair your car.
One of the floor supervisors that was there on my last visit, was one of the self employed technicians who rent the spaces opposite the four poster ramps.
In what were the open spaces with a floor jack are several two poster ramps with the independent techs running their own seperate operation at the premises, therefore there is even more technical expertise than what just a floor supervisor would be able to provide. So if you did get stuck then they can help, although if you plan ahead then you should be able to keep on top of the job, and get it done.
They also do MOT's there now, and there is a window tinting tech based there.
Sorry mods - had to put Honda as no Kawasaki option.
My old ZZR600 had been languishing in the garage for about 18 months pretty much untouched. I hadn't stored it properly, but just switched it off and left it, plugging it into a trickle charger for a few days once every couple of months.
I decided to resurrect it a few weeks ago. I added a gallon of fresh Super Unleaded to the tank (there was still fuel in there) and she fired up without too much trouble at all. After an initial "lumpiness" (to be expected after 18 months inactivity), she seemed to run fine. I did all the MOT prep, gave her a clean and lube, and rode her over for test yesterday, which I'm pleased to say she passed. She rode fine all the way there (took it steady), and to start with was fine on the way back. With everything warm, I gave her a bit of stick and she pulled as well as ever. I was happy.
After a couple of moments of using the revs and the power, I dropped the speed back and shifted up to 6th. I noticed then she was only running on (what sounds like) 3 cylinders and sounding very sick indeed. I confirmed this when I went to pull away from the next junction, with a serious lack of power and a definite, persistent misfire from one cylinder. As the revs build, it will suddenly pop back onto all four and take off like a scalded cat. High rev power / response is fine, but ask it to pull from under 6k with more than light throttle, and it drops onto three cylinders. It also seems to idle OK, but the misfire can be detected revving the engine when stationary if too much throttle is applied.
I have since brimmed the tank with fresh fuel and done another 10 miles or so, but it's not getting any better. At high revs / WOT it feels fantastic, but something's definitely wrong.
No smoke, no smell of fuel, nothing else untoward. Any suggestions? Am I about to regret not draining the carbs down before storing her?
Cheers
DP
Read more
As Mr Dunlop was heard to say - 'I'm yer man' (When it comes to plugs).
I own a BMW 335d Coupe with 19" wheels & runflats.
From new it managed 14k miles before scrubbing the inside edge off all 4 tyres. The front tyres still had 50% of their original depth over 85-90% of the surface. The dealer told me I would need a 'KDS alignment' to sort this which cost nearly £300.
14k miles later again scrubbed all 4 inside edges, again the dealer told me a 'KDS allignment' would solve this. He appeared shocked when told the car had already had one.
I spoke to customer services @ BMW (UK) & they stated that this was not normal & to return to the dealer so they could investigate.
Returned to the to be told that the tyre wear was normal for this model & BTW both rear wheels are cracked £1000 please.
I again complained to BMW (UK) who now told me that the tyre wear was normal & that I must have driven through a pot hole to crack both rear wheels & therefor they were not covered by warranty despite the car being 18 months old & having only done 28k miles.
I have filed with the county court that these wheels are not fit for the purpose.
Does anyone have any similar cases that they are willing to provide as coroberative evidence? Read more
This is not read only because discussion on this also in another thread.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=75...9
Thanks
I have a 2003 peugeot 307 and the air con and blowers/fans have stopped working! Checked fuses and behind the air con switch for any loose connections.
Any ideas before i take it to a garage? Should i get air con topped up which i doubt would be the problem as the fans don't work when air con is switched off. Read more
I guess you mean the blower for the cabin a/c heater.Take a look behind the dash on the passenger side,behind glovebox.Very common for the multi-pin connector to the motor to overheat and burn out.hth
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I think you will find that the brake light switch is located in the passenger footwell ,up and behind the glove box,on the brake mechanism.hth