June 2009

Warrie09

Anyone got any tips on replacing drivebelt and tensioner, as Iv tried to change the belt but it appears the tensioner bracket has to come off 1st. Unfortunately Iv broken part of the tensioner pulley whilst trying to release the tension.. Any advice on cost would also be appreciated. Read more

punkhead

you are right in thinking that the bracket has to come off.to do that though you also have to remove the alternator first to get to the bracket as the belt goes round the back of the pulley.it is a fiddly job and takes about an hour on a ramp so you are looking at the cost of an hours labour.

Altea Ego

Off to suffolk Saturday. Need suggestions please for a nice pub, good food, garden and dog friendly if possible, bout 45 mins to hour up the A12 Say colchester way.
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deepwith

I used to hold the record for the biggest 'dab' caught off the Pier - was taken to a little hut where the weight and measurements were recorded - tasted good too! Caused extremely sulky elder brothers for several days ;-)

damadgeruk

I recently purchased my third Focus estate, this one is a 1.6TDCi Studio with no remote locking. :(
When I activate remote programming I get the 'bong' though the car will not respond to a remote (tried the one from my 54 Focus). I'm hoping the I can add or replace a CL module (found instructions to do this for Mk1 Focus online) though I don't know whether this is possible or where the unit is, I've looked under the steering wheel which is where the Mk1 unit lives.
Any suggestions short of upgrading my car. :) Thanks, David Read more

jc2

You've coped but Ford do offer kits for upgrading door locking systems/alarms etc.The big advantage is the colour-matched wiring.

Nissanman

Hi all,

I just recently had a full service on my car, which included having the rear brakes cleaned out and new pads being installed to the front brakes.

Since this was done (at a garage in Cheshire), I drove back over to the other side of the country where I live and all seemed to be fine.

The next day I drove the 30 miles to work.. all seemed to be fine. (there may have been squeal during this time but I didn't notice it.)

However, on the way home from work, I started noticing a light, high pitched squeal coming from the right hand front wheel. It mainly happens when I press the brake, particularly as I'm coming to a stop. Although it seems to be worse for the first few miles, especially of a morning. By the time I've done about 20 miles, it seems to have largeley dicipated and only occurs as I brake to a stop.

It also happens a little bit when I steer the car slightly to the left. I think of a morning it has also happened when I have first started driving (first 50 yards) without either steering or braking, but i could be wrong.

As far as I'm aware, the garage didn't put any of that grease stuff on the new pads - they said they don't bother.

Is this problem I'm having anything serious, and will it fix itself? Or, can it be rectified inexpensively?

I noticed on another forum that somebody else had experienced some squealing when steering and people had said it might be wheel bearings. Firstly, I'm seriously hoping this isn't the case for me, but also, it seems a coincidence that it is happening literally 4 or 5 days after having the brake pads done. Also, I had a wheel bearing problem on the rear of my car a while ago and that didn't involve a squeal noise, but more of a low pitched "wom wom wom wom" wearing noise.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Bob Read more

Nissanman

But would that cause occasional squealing when steering (and not braking), and just driving along without steering or braking? The latter has occured when first driving the car for about 30 metres.

As far as I am aware, the pads replaced the originals, although I can't be certain. The pads were bought from Nissan.

Thanks

GeorgieRover

We now have a slow puncture on our 97 Rover 416, and it would appear that we have no unlocking key for the wheel nuts.

Can you get these as spares anywhere?

Some seem to think we will have to get the existing ones sheered off and buy a brand new set Read more

GeorgieRover

The one I saw on there was only £11!

Forum Taxing Car
RaineMan

I just went online to tax my car. When I went to pay the payment was not authorised on my debit card (Barclays) although at this time of the month it is well in the black. After a couple of failed attempts I paid by credit card (Barclaycard) and accepted the £2-50 surcharge. Has anyone else had problems? Read more

RaineMan


Just checked at Barclays and everything was OK. Their ATM was iffy last night and I did not want to try A N Other Bank plc in case it swallowed my card. Last time that happened I went back next morning to be informed that it had been shredded for security!

I did not want to cancel yesterday as someone told me that when they did that and tried again later it was refused because of a failed attempt and they had to join the lo_n__g queue at the PO!

Pondlife

I've noticed the year of manufacture given by the VIN number on my car is after the year shown on the log book. The VIN code says 2001, and the log book says 2000.

I'm happy because as it's 2000-registered I only need to pay GBP 185 tax (or whatever it is now) instead of something like 400. But I wonder how the date of manufacture can be after the registration date. Is this technically possible, or does it mean that there has been a DVLA screw up.

For the curious, the VIN number is SAJAC01L51Fxxxxxx. It's a Jag S-Type. The 10th character is "1", which according to the websites I've looked at means 2001.
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Pondlife

Thanks chaps. That clears it up.

When I look back at the VIN decoding websites they do indeed say that the 10th digit is the "model year", but somehow I read that as "year of manufacture".

banter

hello, rear wiper works on screen wash but only when it wants when on steady, more off than on. could anyone tell me if there is a test to tell if its the motor or the switch thanks john Read more

banter

thanks guys john

William James

Hello

As a mechanically challenged person I enjoy this forum.

I've followed the experts discuss the VVT-i oil consumption issue. I'm interested in getting a used (4/5 years) corolla hatch, but I have to admit to being uneasy monitoring excessive oil use .Do any of you know of a model that doesn't have this problem? For me the car fits the bill in every other way.

Many thanks

William James Read more

cuthbert

As no one else have replied to your question I will give you my limited info that I have !!

It was the 1-8 vvti engines that were troubled with oil burning issue the 2-0 lt vvti engines I believe were not .
The problems starts at about 40,000 miles and many engines were repaired with new engine blocks by Toyota after the 3 year warranty had run out as a good will gesture to customers who had maintained a full Toyota service history.

Which ever one you decide on it would be a good idea to see your local dealer and find out if any work had been done on it or ask them the question above.

If you have a look on the Toyota owners forum and do a search you may find out more information

stunorthants26

Just a positive mention of Westaway Motors who yet again have come through for me with a free fix of an annoying problem on my Charade.

Back in November I think it was, I had, one of the the other, my front brakes get very sticky. I had my local indy free them up but I still wasnt happy as I felt there was noticable drag somewhere.
I then booked it into my local Daihatsu dealer ( who supplied both my Charade and the misses Sirion aswell as several other cars over the years ) who checked it over and found that the handbrake linkage was seized. The duly freed this off and charged me an hours labour, which at £60 isnt bad these days from a main dealer.
A few weeks later I detected drag again ( same roads everyday you notice if things change ). I booked it in, loan car provided and they stripped all the brakes, went through the motions and when I got the car back, it felt it had its verve back again.
Best thing was, no charge Sir, we should have done it the first time round - only they spent two hours on it this time, so my £60 had stretched to 3 hours worth now.

Now I had this knocking noise that id isolated to the front OS brake caliper after a close inspection which had been going on for what must be 3-4 months but id previously thought it to be a noisey suspension bush.
Booked it in yesterday, 8am today I was in, loan car available if they couldnt get it done in an hour. Fella comes in from workshop, takes me out there, shows me that two bolts are ever so slightly loose causing excess play and thus making a clonking noise over high frequency bumps.
He cleans and lubricated the caliper and re-tightened the bolts, then ran me down the road and all is fixed.
Best part, yet again, no charge as despite it being 5 months since it was last in, they took responsibility for the issue.

Its been a refreshing experience after having read so much about peoples negative experiences of the rip-off merchant main dealers.
As such, Im now willing to pay that bit more and have them do the oil/fliter and its first gearbox oil change due in July as I feel I will be looked after - I could walk away and not use them, theres no obligation, but its businesses like this that need support.
They also do Ford, so its not like they are only used to japanese oddities.
Sales team is just as good. Read more

1400ted

Thanks, Stu.
Backs up what the girls say about their cars, although they're all manuals.
Erin Dors has a C3 sensodrive and neither of us like it...in fact I won't drive it unless I have to, always get the Vitara Auto out.
Will change C3 in Sept....Sirion 1st in the frame now. Saw a metallic plum coloured one on Fish4cars.com. Looked good but not quite ready to change yet .

Ted