December 2007
Topping up the oil in my Bora 130TDI today, I noticed that my 1 litre top up bottle was now empty.
Doing a bit of searching for the cheapest supplier of the stuff, I found out that this oil, which is specified for variable service intervals on the pump duse engine has now been replaced by Castrol.
The oil that replaces it is Castrol Edge 5w 30 which has VW specification VW 504 00/507 00.
So all you fellow Longlife oil users take note.
It is still confusing as there are a number of oils with the "Edge" name that are suitable for Turbo diesels but are 505 spec and not the new 507 spec.
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Quick straw poll here - Now Britain has had "regional" registrations for a few years now (Anglia, Birmingham, Cymru, etc.), is it a better system? Is it better for us to know where the car in front/behind was registered; do you want other drivers to judge you by your apparent origin; or does it make no difference at all?
Spain (as well as Italy, and France from January 2008) changed to "generic" non-regional registrations years ago, and the traditional enmity between Spanish regions - rivalry bordering on psycopathic hatred between certain areas; drivers from the Basque Country routinely stopped by police patrols; incidents of vandalism after football matches, etc... - have all but disappeared. Read more
Has anyone noticed how many "ex demonstator" cars for sale have AF or similar East
Anglian regs and around 10000 miles on the clock?
The vast majority of 6-9 month old cars finding their way on to franchised dealers forecourts with ~10K on the clock are ex-rentals. If these are sold as 'demonstrators', then Trading Standards need to be informed. V5 will show original registrant. These often appear to be registered in the South East. Don't know where 'AD' is from, but see a lot of Fiats registered there. (my wife's Punto, for instance - bought at 6 months old / 3.5K miles from a Fiat franchise in the Scottish highlands (ex - rental)
Also be aware that some cars will be pre-registered by the supplying dealer group to get big discounts, and finally, some manufacturers / importers, will pre-register cars for press and media use.
tried to put battery in after recently changing whole engine gearbox and clutch. had to jump it because it was dead but when i connected the leads the battery sparked into life and locked my car...
heres the bad bit, not knowing it would do this,,, (i dont know a lot about cars) i left my keys in the car... GREAT... now its blocking neighbours drive and i cant get in... spare keyfob and key were not given when i bought the car and i havent had chance to get a copy...
breaking the small rear window looks tempting,,, ive tried the coathanger but its hard because the door handle goes into the door curvature.
is it easy to replace the small rear window? Read more
hi all finally got in using coathanger, wont say how for those that dont know. and now after all this time i have my car working fully again... hurray!
anyone know of a decent holder (preferably to take 2 pairs of glasses) that could, say, be attached to dashboard? If relevant, car's an A3. Or maybe there's a make of vehicle that has such a useful item as standard and purchasable as a part. Am looking for a "pot" or tubular shape that glasses cld easily be slid into.
Merry Christmas to you all and Safe Driving if you're out over the hol in this murky weather!
EH Read more
cld be at risk of making a spectacle of myself here
hi, wonder if any of you guys can help me with this, i know these cars pretty well but seem to have ran to a dead end. basically from fully cold ie. left overnight then the car is a pig to start and when it does it smokes heavily with grey fumes for 5 minutes or so. the glow plugs have been replaced yesterday and i can confirm they definately work by putting them across a battery and they glow brightly at the tip, one was dead so it now catches first turn of the key but you need to keep the accelerater pressed down then rev the car to get it to fire properly and settle to idle, it's like a massive flat spot when you first start it which makes me suspect it's suffer from fuel drain back overnight, priming the bulb doesn't make much difference and ive replaced the leak of pipes and fuel filter seal as they are the most common points of air ingress.
ive measured the glow plug feed whilst running and it stays more or less at 13.4 volts for circa 3 minutes then the relay switch's off so im ruling that out. having read the xantia thread that's running at the minute it could be exhaust valve clearences but id have thought this would affect more than just the very 1st start of the day, you can start the car leave it to idle for 5 minutes (thermostat still closed so don't really suspect you could say it's warmed up) stop it and it restarts fine with no smoke, the cold start waxstat is taught when cold and goes slack as it warms so suspect it works, ive also tried removing the waxstat wire and fully adjusting the arm on the bosch pump by levering with a screwdriver so it is definately in the cold start position and again it has no effect,
so now im at a loss to explain what's happening, so all help would be gratefully received.
cheers
chris Read more
Chris
Glad to hear that it's improved. That inlet valve's sealing may well have suffered by not being on it's seat very much and a bit of running will help it reseat, so it may get better still.
hi
my key fob for the remote central locking on my 03 Almera has just stopped working
I wouldn't mind but there is no option to open the door with a key so I am affectively locked out of my car!
any ideas?
could it be something as simple as a dead battery?
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cheers
just found that on passenger side so can now get in the thing
thanks
We are positively shocked at the minute at what we are being offered for our Mazda Tribute (part-ex price). Our tribute has 35K and is A1 condition, 03 reg, serviced at main dealer since new). We have been offered 20 to 30% less than the Glass's price (which is already much lower than the Parker's) by 6 dealers (4 different makes).
I have checked on Auto Trader, the same Tributes as ours are being sold by the trade between 5.5K and 8K.
Is there any reasons for this or are they just trying it on?
I thought it was a good time of the year to do a deal! Not really as it seems. Read more
OK, thanks for the advice Pd.
Is climate control just the same as Air con?
I am asking because the Vitara has climate control with a dial that reads: 18c -23c -28c, I would like to know how 18c on climate control can ever be classed as "cold"? I thought that air con had to be roundabout 8c. I am confused. Read more
Funnily enough I love my climate control on the Passat. Generally leave it on the 22°C recommended in the handbook. If weather is warm I might drop it to 20°C and car interior feels fine even in external ambients of 36°C or so in France.
However my colleagues all say air conditioning is rubbish - their cars do not get cold enough/air coming out of vents is not cold enough/18°C is far too hot etc. etc.
I checked the vent air temperature in the Passat once and it was around 12°C after the interior temperature had stabilised in a hot UK summer. Even running flat out at the start of the journey it was around 9°C IIRC.
In the USA recently the Toyota Avalon had various climate zones but several times there was simultaneous cries of "I'm too hot" "I'm too cold" " I'm driving at 75mph and can't read the flippin manual"
I have maintained the family VW Golf 1994 1.6CL (ABU engine) whilst it has been in our ownership for the last 10 years. It has provided totally reliable service for all of its 100+k miles.
Recently an intermittent fault is proving illusive to locate and solve.
When travelling at M-way speeds, or around town, the engine cuts for approximately 1 second then cuts back in. It is a sharp loss / restoration barely noticeable on the M-way. In town it can cause a stall. Can occur when the engine is cold or at normal temperature and with a frequency of say, once per 50 miles.
When cut happens a red warning light illuminates for the 1 second which I initially presumed to be the ignition light. All the warning lights are coloured red.
I replaced the spark plugs, HT leads, rotor arm, distributor cap and coil without improvement then realised it was in fact the oil light that was coming on. Although it is difficult to be sure, the Rev counter may also cut.
Replacing both the oil pressure switches has not solved the problem.
My feeling is that the problem is electrical / electronic rather than fuel / oil pressure.
But where to look next ?
Be grateful for any ideas !
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Hi Bob & Screwloose,
Well the deed is done ! The guidance you both provided has been invaluable.
The Code Reader you recommended Bob was very helpful - indicating Code 515, faulty Hall Sender, as anticpated by Screwloose.
Getting the replacement part was less than straightforward - not available from G&S, Eurocarparts or Halfords. VAG could supply to order but needed the distributor code - unreadable whilst on the engine and at a price I didn't like.
Bosch UK were helpful and advised that their agent local to me had the unit in stock.
I obtained this at a charge of 43 pounds including VAT - which seemed ok.
Removing the distributor was pretty straight forward. Extracting and refitting the spring pin needed rather more clout than I had expected - a 3.5mm drift was the key. Having got the distributor stripped I was surprised to see that the new Hall Sender was different from the old unit.
The new one had 4 securing holes rather than two on the original unit. The extra holes aligned with unthreaded drillings in the distributor body - I tapped these to M4 and obtained M4 10mm machine screws from Screwfix (code 86939).
Put it back together and it works ! Seems fine, but we will have to run the car for a while to be sure.
Many thanks to you both for your help - Bob hope your goes smoothly.
Cheers, Malcolm
Hi,
I made a short journey in my mk IV Golf earlier today, its the 1.4 16v E model. I popped in to my friends house for 5 mins and when I got back in the car it starts up but then instantly cuts out. I have tried restarting several times and will not maintain revs, it just starts and dies on me. Its deffo not flooded the engine, but sounds almost as if it is being starved of fuel or something, like its choking. It has been very cold this morning so could that have anything to do with it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou LJJT Read more
It's more likely that the water has penetrated the instrument pod that houses the immobilizer.
Round the key-lock is a ring that reads the key; follow it's screened cable back up to the pod [some stripping required] and check the plug isn't corroded. [A good wiggle often helps.]
The only saving on the 10,000 regime will be the few quid on the oil. Labour and other charges will be the same so Longlife will save you money.
My longlife regime Audi still gets serviced about every year as I do the indicated mileage (18,500) in about a year.